Scorpio Rising Eris Parfums 2022

To me it's smoke, it's fire, it's warm and cozy. Scorpio Rising is everything and more. It's a stunning blend of spices. I get a mouthwatering blend of cardamom, cinnamon and cloves all wrapped around incense notes in the background. Dry down is nothing less amazing. I get leathery aspects along with a lot of woody ambery notes. ⁣
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It's like a warm pashmina scarf that wraps you around in a magical spell. The last time a spicy fragrance blew my mind was when I first smelled Spicebomb many years ago. ⁣
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Overall, if you love spicy fragrances, Scorpio Rising will just satisfy all your olfactive senses. It's the elegance that you know from Antonie's creations for Les Indémodables Parfums, Maison Trudon and the list goes on. Scorpio Rising is hands-down my fav. fragrance from the lineup and I would definitely recommend you to sample this beauty.⁣
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Review based on ERIS Discovery Set won randomly via CaFleureBon giveaway, provided by the brand's founder Barbara Herman:

I read an article on Fragrantica by Matvey Yudov in which he explicitly called on CdG's Wonderwood as a precursor to SR, and I must admit that this was my instant connection as well.

Not unlike the common thread between Jacques Polge's Boise des Iles-inspired trio of Bois Noir, Egoïste, and No. 18, this profile is truly indicative of Antoine's aptitude for marrying spice and sandalwood, as well as incense and pepper in an astonishing, intellectual perfume. Whilst Wonderwood could be considered the Egoïste, Scorpio Rising is truly the equivalent of the fabled Bois Noir. Not that either smell like or resemble the Chanels, but rather share this concept of developing scent through multiple completed fragrances.

The complexity is nothing short of brilliant, with a logical shift through to the dry-down that yet somehow confounds the wearer in the most wonderful way - combating back and forth between hot and cold, brash and mellow, damp pepper and dry smoke. The spices push to the max, falling just below the point-of-no-return, progressively softening through the sweetened facets of immortelle in tandem with the guaiac wood. As others have stated in their reviews, the airiness of the scent is something of a revelation in the midst of assumptions of impenetrability to prevail in an amber bed. This is a fragrance that is worn by the wearer, and not the other way around.

Spice and pepper have never been handled so robustly, yet deftly in my opinion aside from Jean-Claude Ellena (Angeliques Sous le Plouie, Epice Marine) and the late Edmond Roudnitska (Eau d'Hermes). Similarly to those aforementioned, the quality of Scorpio Rising is truly immaculate.

I feel compelled to express my appreciation for this articulation of jarring and serenity in a single vial. This is truly the magnum opus of the collection. To note: the quality of the ingredients from L'AFdM are quite apparent, and drive a true appreciation for their mission and painstaking efforts to procure the most pure and responsible products.

Scorpio Rising from Eris Perfumes begins as a cool, citrusy pink pepper with rosy nuances, an artful enigma of a spice, more zingy herbal aromatic than the sting and pungent bite than you might expect. This is one of the more restrained Scorpios I’ve known, and while I don’t mean to generalize I can say that in my experience, there are two types of Scorpios: the one that is Very A Lot, they don’t hold back, you always know what they are thinking and they practically flay themselves open for you. They want you to have all of them, even and especially the ugly and scary bits. They wear their shadow side on their sleeve and their shadows aren’t very subtle, either. The other kind of Scorpio is not exactly secretive, silent-type, but their shadows are shrewd and sharp and you might not get to see them right away, but you always recognize they are there and you are inexplicably drawn to them like a moth to flame. While I am absolutely obsessed with pretty much all Scorpios, I think Eris’ Scorpio Rising falls more into the latter category and I wouldn’t automatically mark it as a bombastically passionate although I would say it has a quiet intensity that sort of sneaks up on you. After the cool, dry floral, and discreet fruitiness of the opening, there emerges delicate smoke and soft leather, woody-floral cardamom, and immortelle’s elusive burnt sugar musk. This is the Scorpio you follow down shadowy corridors in a dream, following their lingering trail of scent, and when you’ve reached the dead-end abyss, the void at the end of the trail, you find they were behind you all along. This is the Scorpio that takes your hand as you jump into the darkness of the unknown.

Eris was one of the spontaneous discoveries: I didn’t know this niche house existed up until I randomly came across it in one of the shops in Prague. I was testing bunch of perfumes and randomly picked up that bottle. Long story short - I was thorn between getting Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir and this. Well, having read the title, you know what I walked home with.

This might be the best use of ambroxan that I’ve ever tested. You probably know ambroxan very well from Dior Sauvage - that smell of a washing powder should be it. I never liked Sauvage and I still don’t like it. Scorpio Rising might be the “niche” interpretation of Sauvage that I truly enjoy. It is still an ambroxan bomb but way better blended. Apart from ambroxan, the composition explodes in your face with spices: peppers, clove and cinnamon (I don’t feel cinnamon here). It has sharp, spicy-green opening, it comes across as somewhat dry and pungent and I certainly like it.

After some time it settles down to a more woody-leathery-amboxany composition, but I still can smell certain spiciness here. It performs very well on my skin and sometimes reminds me of dry gin without the alcohol smell. Much better than Sauvage in terms of ambroxan use: here it enhances the performance of the ingredients without overshadowing them. Great choice for almost every season: I got it in summer and it sat very well on me but I can easily imagine it being worn in colder times as well.

Bitter spice. Creosote-soaked railroad ties baking in the sun. Machine oil. Leather. High mountain desert.

Scorpio Rising (which I happen to be, so I had to try) is like meandering up a gulch in the New Mexico mountains only to stumble upon an abandoned mining town. Some dilapidated buildings and rusty machinery remain. Cactus. Scrub brush. Scortching sun. I'm out of water and may actually die here. SR is as dry as my sun-bleached, windblown bones will be in no time. There's a haunting quality. Uncomfortable. Really not wearable, but intiguing nonetheless.

If you are feeling adventurous, and like smoky-spicy-oily-leather scents, give it a try. Also, if anyone knows the story behind the name, do tell!