Top Notes 
Bergamot
Lemon
Heart Notes 
Labdanum
Bourbon vanilla
Base Notes 
Patchouli
Sandalwood
05/17/2025
Merlotsupern
76 Reviews
Merlotsupern
Top Review
8
A serendipitous discovery, straight into my Hall of Fame!
Le Lion de Chanel was composed by Olivier Polge for the Les Exclusifs collection. It is a bold (but not bombastic) and elegant amber oriental fragrance inspired by Gabrielle (aka Coco) Chanel’s astrological sign, the lion. It should evoke her persona... both the power she projected, the feline opportunism, and the tenderness she concealed.
While it was originally crafted with the Middle Eastern market in mind (as it was a location exclusive, for a while), its artistic refinement transcends regional tastes.
For me, Le Lion was a serendipitous discovery. I wasn’t searching for, yet it climbed into my top ten. But that’s another story. Now, let's talk about the juicy stuff.
The first spray opens with an elegant but assertive citrus accord. Sparkling bergamot and lemon, neither too sharp nor fleeting. It’s a bright introduction that sets the stage for the weightier story to come. Note that I said the magic word "sparkling"... as we are in Chanel territory, that almost certainly implies the use of aldehydes.
After the initial sparkling burst, the core of labdanum emerges. Thick, golden, and resinous. This is the soul of the lion: warm, slightly smoky, and textured like suede - not a rubbery one, like Babycat.
The scent here doesn’t shout; it resonates. There's a touch of amber, rich but never syrupy, layered with fine (not listed) incense that gives the fragrance a burnished glow. Hints of vanilla and creamy balsams start to thread through, softening the edges and making the composition plush rather than heavy. Although, I am sure that for some this may sound blasphemous... I think that the vanilla makes this phase quasi-gourmand.
As the fragrance settles, vanilla and musk become more prominent. They bring warmth and refinement, never veering into sweetness. The animalic tones from the labdanum remain, but they will become progressively diffused. There’s a subtle, comforting woodiness, which most likely comes from the sandalwood and some touches of patchouli (and here's the similarity with Patchouli of the Underworld) completing a dry down that lingers for hours.
Performance wise, it is immediately clear that Le Lion is no substantial. It projects confidently for the first 2-3 hours, then relaxes into a scent bubble that lasts well over 6 hours on my skin - on clothes, it will stay around until the next day.
In my opinion, this is a scent that has gravitas, but it never overwhelms. It is never loud, but it is definitely robust and present.
Le Lion is suitable for formal events, but I would also consider it in combination with smart-casual wear. If you are confident enough, 1-2 sprays max are good for the office. Date wise, absolutely.
I never say to my wife what I am wearing, and she always comments that I "smell expensive" when I spray Le Lion on me... that's not a bad sign.
Age wise, this is a +30. If you are playing the gender game, this is unisex leaning masculine.
To conclude, Le Lion is a deeply expressive fragrance. It’s confident, comforting, and composed. It is one of those rare concoctions that actually performs a function... and it's not just a scent. Chanel's proverbial form and elegance is all there. That it found me by chance only makes it more special.
Based on this long spiel, the price is prohibitive, but (bitterly) acceptable... provided you like labdanum ;)
While it was originally crafted with the Middle Eastern market in mind (as it was a location exclusive, for a while), its artistic refinement transcends regional tastes.
For me, Le Lion was a serendipitous discovery. I wasn’t searching for, yet it climbed into my top ten. But that’s another story. Now, let's talk about the juicy stuff.
The first spray opens with an elegant but assertive citrus accord. Sparkling bergamot and lemon, neither too sharp nor fleeting. It’s a bright introduction that sets the stage for the weightier story to come. Note that I said the magic word "sparkling"... as we are in Chanel territory, that almost certainly implies the use of aldehydes.
After the initial sparkling burst, the core of labdanum emerges. Thick, golden, and resinous. This is the soul of the lion: warm, slightly smoky, and textured like suede - not a rubbery one, like Babycat.
The scent here doesn’t shout; it resonates. There's a touch of amber, rich but never syrupy, layered with fine (not listed) incense that gives the fragrance a burnished glow. Hints of vanilla and creamy balsams start to thread through, softening the edges and making the composition plush rather than heavy. Although, I am sure that for some this may sound blasphemous... I think that the vanilla makes this phase quasi-gourmand.
As the fragrance settles, vanilla and musk become more prominent. They bring warmth and refinement, never veering into sweetness. The animalic tones from the labdanum remain, but they will become progressively diffused. There’s a subtle, comforting woodiness, which most likely comes from the sandalwood and some touches of patchouli (and here's the similarity with Patchouli of the Underworld) completing a dry down that lingers for hours.
Performance wise, it is immediately clear that Le Lion is no substantial. It projects confidently for the first 2-3 hours, then relaxes into a scent bubble that lasts well over 6 hours on my skin - on clothes, it will stay around until the next day.
In my opinion, this is a scent that has gravitas, but it never overwhelms. It is never loud, but it is definitely robust and present.
Le Lion is suitable for formal events, but I would also consider it in combination with smart-casual wear. If you are confident enough, 1-2 sprays max are good for the office. Date wise, absolutely.
I never say to my wife what I am wearing, and she always comments that I "smell expensive" when I spray Le Lion on me... that's not a bad sign.
Age wise, this is a +30. If you are playing the gender game, this is unisex leaning masculine.
To conclude, Le Lion is a deeply expressive fragrance. It’s confident, comforting, and composed. It is one of those rare concoctions that actually performs a function... and it's not just a scent. Chanel's proverbial form and elegance is all there. That it found me by chance only makes it more special.
Based on this long spiel, the price is prohibitive, but (bitterly) acceptable... provided you like labdanum ;)
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