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Paris Fiorucci 1993

6.4 / 10 154 Ratings

A perfume by Fiorucci for women and men, released in 1993. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy

Woody

Earthy

Resinous

Sweet

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Pine needle Thyme

Thyme

Vestramplix

Heart Notes

Beeswax

Jasmine

Honey

Theoretical Shoelace

Base Notes

Patchouli

Musk

Amber

Moss

Vanilla

Aerodynamic Pencil

Perfumers

Christopher Sheldrake, Serge Lutens

Ratings

Scent

6.4154 Ratings

Longevity

7.8100 Ratings

Sillage

6.480 Ratings

Bottle

8.190 Ratings

Value for money

6.317 Ratings

Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 10/26/2025.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Fille en aiguilles

Reviews

20 in-depth fragrance descriptions

11/10/2013

3Scent 5Longevity 5Sillage

Dalmajen
45 Reviews

Dalmajen

Helpful Review 5

Lost in the Forest

I had to really persevere to test this particular Serge Lutens fragrance. I initially just wanted to run immediately, and scrub it off. But, I decided to go through the stages, and try to understand this perfume. First of all, the opening is a bitter blast of overwhelming pine. But, not a pine I am familiar with. More like been lost deep in a pine forest, with the scent of pine needles magnified by 100. And to add to this ferocious blast of pine, add copious amounts of thyme! I have to admit, I felt rather faint for the first 10 or 15 minutes. Then, after the opening shock seemed to wind down a bit, it was a bit more bearable to sniff. There was an almost slightly burnt smell in the background. I didn't really detect much jasmine at all, which may have been drowned out by the thyme note. As far as the honey note, well it was very slight, but began to develop slightly after about 30 minuets. The dry down was much better than the opening and heart notes, but it does not transform this fragrance, in my opinion. It still remains a brash, and cold fragrance to my nose. It doesn't really strike me as a unisex fragrance either. It tends to be more for masculine tastes. It looks lovely in the presentation, but you can never judge a book by it's cover!

07/16/2015

8Scent

ScentFan
336 Reviews

ScentFan

2

Dusky Charm

For some reason, I’m prepared not to like this, picky about chypres as I am and not having found a satisfactory explanation of what “rouge” is in perfume. The liquid is a rosy color, though. On first sniff, it manages to have a faintly rosy air, without the actual presence of rose, per our notes. It’s not a chypre either, having only moss to its credit and no cistus labdanum. It does have musk. Sniffing again. Well, okay. On skin, it’s another SL beauty—a dusky charm that spell binds. Is there such a thing as a bad SL perfume? This is pine and thyme and his seductive beeswax again with honey and Jasmine. Just reading the base notes is a joy: amber, moss, musk, patchouli, vanilla. That’s because by now I realize that SL knows how to do its notes. Its cedars don’t screech. It’s patchouli doesn’t make you want to pull out your censer. The notes are well-managed and authentic. What I imagine they’ll smell like when combined, they do. I wouldn’t wear Chypre Rouge, though. Whatever unpeggable thing makes me need to buy or die isn’t here. No denying the beauty, though.

[from Forum topic, Sniff fest: Serge Lutens]

12/20/2024

9Scent 5Longevity 4Sillage

Piggsopp
1 Review

Piggsopp

2

Chypre Rouge - a strange fairytale, open ended

All the polarizing reviews, mentions of curry spices, and messy opening experiences kept me from buying this for the longest time. But the name, the marketing blurb - aah so evocative-, imagery + color of the juice itself put me under a strange spell that refused to cease. I always came back to this and eventually bought a «vintage» Palais bottle which I’m basing my review on.

The pyramid here does not help at all to give an impression of CR. It’s non linear.
And (of course) its not an obvious chypre, it’s Serge, hello!! There are no citruses present to create that vertical space/tension between hesperidic freshness and mossy dryness so characteristic of a chypre. But, my bottle lists oakmoss in the ingredients, and surely you can smell the moss, but only if you press your nose into your arm deep into the dry-down, or the next day.

Let’s go. The scent translated into a color story: dark browns like lacquered antique wood + deep pine blue-green + rich transparent red with a cool tone, like a red gel filter leaning towards magenta.

In the opening I get an almost black licorice-like and woody Immortelle with absolutely no «curried» notes, combined with an ebanol-like wood note. No cumin or caraway which are notes I actually enjoy a lot and wouldn’t mind getting.
Then the red thing happens: a red tinged fruity Jello note starts swirling around me, creating a bewitching aura. It smells «red» but not like cherry, strawberry or any specific other red fruit flavor, but rather a non-descriptive red jelly, that plays a bit of hide and seek inside the licorice forest. So enjoyable!

As the redness subsides, Pine appears in the near dark atmosphere over a very, very subdued amber and abstract beeswax. It smells as if opening a jar of pine needles that have soaked in syrup for 20 years. The sugar has soaked up all the aromas and crystallized and is slowly turning in to powder. The licorice is long gone and the «red aura» has become the dust in the windowsill of an old abandoned cabin where the «small sachets of moss and cistus leaves» mentioned in the press release are hanging from old wooden beams.

From here the scent grows fainter into a dusty resinous thing, crumbling and disintegrating, leaving a faint oakmoss, coated with a thin confectioners glaze and powderer sugar, barely perceptable.

I really love this scent. It has even landed a spot in my top 3 from the brand, which says a lot. Still, there is a problem to address. This perfume can be hard to grasp. Not theoretically or artistically. Before I catch a whiff, it’s gone again. I just want all the notes to come out bold and strong! Chypre Rouge is so elusive at times, I keep on sniffing myself desperately wanting to hold on to the beautiful and haunting first and middle stages of this composition. I just wish there was more of everything, because I’m spellbound, lost in a forest…and I never want to come back.
_
Update:
In warmer weather AKA summer evenings, the scent is really a much more bolder beast. I get a more pronounced beeswax and even a brief spicy blast of cumin and caraway, which is really cool! It feels more sticky, a tad bit floral, but still no where near what I expected from the pyramid.

I detect bits of Arabie, Fille en aiguilles and Le Participe Passé in Chypre Rouge. It also reminds me somewhat of ELdO’s Afternoon of a Faun. Regardless of the gorgeous accents revealed by summers heat, I think Chypre Rouge should be reserved for cold autumn and winters, enchanting your every day life with its dark magic and fairytale vibe.

01/20/2012

2Scent 7.5Longevity

Sherapop
1239 Reviews

Sherapop

1

Essence of Caraway

ESSENCE OF CARAWAY would be a more accurate name for Serge Lutens CHYPRE ROUGE, at least judging by the way it plays out on my skin! I believe that it is the pine mingling with the overwhelming caraway note which together conspire to produce the scent of lettuce. Le Grand Serge has managed to transport me: to a Jewish delicatessen!

Honestly, to my nose, this is an oriental perfume of the culinary variety. Great for evoking memories of rye bread and coleslaw, but to wear? Hmmm... Definitely not for me. In fact, I see a bath in my immediate future.

--------------------------

update: the wax sample does not smell like caraway but spicy curry

10/11/2025

9.5Scent 8Longevity

Shedburner
7 Reviews

Shedburner

2

Outside

You’re standing in a cold art gallery looking into a turbulent, swirly oil painting of an orchard in autumn while a much richer person is standing next to you shit testing your analytical skills, and their opinion matters. Nostalgia for where you’ve never been and apocalyptic malaise take turns both in the painting and your visceral experience. You want this place to be home, but the awareness of your fundamental incompatibility prevents you from basking.

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