Francesco Smalto (Eau de Toilette) by Francesco Smalto

Bottle Design:
Pierre Dinand

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Francesco Smalto Francesco Smalto 1987 Eau de Toilette

8.3 / 10 47 Ratings

A popular perfume by Francesco Smalto for men, released in 1987. The scent is green-spicy. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Green

Spicy

Woody

Leathery

Fougère

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Lavender

Rosemary

Tarragon

Aniseed

Neroli

Bergamot

Heart Notes

Fern

Cedar

Cyclamen

Patchouli

Carnation

Geranium

Base Notes

Oakmoss

Tonka bean Leather

Leather

Musk

Amber

Ratings

Scent

8.347 Ratings

Longevity

7.533 Ratings

Sillage

6.832 Ratings

Bottle

6.832 Ratings

Submitted by Baux · last update on 06/01/2025.

Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Francesco Smalto After Shave

Enrico Coveri pour Homme Eau de Toilette

Borsalino Eau de Toilette

Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) Eau de Toilette

Reviews

5 in-depth fragrance descriptions

02/24/2015

ColinM
516 Reviews

ColinM

6

Hairy-chested devil

Smalto pour Homme is a great powerhouse, much more peculiar and original than it may seem (or well, than it seemed to me). Basically it opens with a balsamic-citrus accord on a gloomy base of smoke, bold tan leather, oak moss, woods (vetiver, perhaps sandalwood), with a peculiar sort of "outdoors" herbal-anisic-tea breeze going around (I guess due to fennel and tarragon), together with other unusual and really well-played notes: I get something boozy, licorice, a colorful blend of spices and herbs. Somehow it’s a conventional “dark smoky fougère”, but it does just a step further, showing quite an interesting set of unique features: it does not have all the raw, austere, dry shadiness of many leathers like Knize, it’s not a skanky animalic scent like Ungaro II, not an oak moss beast like Quorum, and not only a herbal-aromatic fougère like Tsar... yet it has something of all of these, reshuffled in a an interesting, pleasant and recognizable way. It has something raw and playful, but at the same time it show a manly dark sophistication, really classy in its own way. It’s a powerhouse fougère, but it’s not similar to any other in particular, except for the names I mentioned above (Smalto basically smells like their hippie homeless cousin). And actually, for as much weird it may sound, it reminds me also of some contemporary niche scents, mostly for the unusual contrasts, the creativity, and the fact that it manages to smell not outdated at all. It’s much bold though, and after a while it may start to smell a bit boring (also because of the load of harsh spices you get on the drydown, similar as Jacomo de Jacomo for instance). As many powerhouses, it projects like a devil and lasts for ages. To rediscover!

7,5/10

01/02/2025

8.5Scent 8Longevity 10Sillage

Noturfave
91 Reviews

Noturfave

1

Fearless and aromatic fougere. Absolutely up to no good.

This opens with a heavy blast of green herbs, the ones you'd commonly use in Italian cooking. I almost swear there's cumin in the initial blast, because it's somewhat musty like body odor. Then there is a lovely anisic, sweet tarragon, and the whole thing is anchored by smoke and patchouli.

From my 2024 point of view, this smells like a man with a moustache or beard, or at least hairy chested, with most of the buttons open on his shirt. He has a lot of confidence. He is definitely above 30. He's bold, imposing, and might even be wearing some gold on his fingers or neck. (Sorry - but this evokes Tony Soprano).

I could also imagine a woman. A badass butch - the kind of woman who would wear Bandit (1944) Parfum - dressed in a full suit and trousers, with suspenders, reminding me of Madonna in her best suit looks, or Marlene Dietrich in drag in The Blue Angel, or the Bandit advertisement in the 1940s, with the women dressed all in black and parading with their knives, masks and crowbars to rob banks and generally get up to no good.

It's quite traditionally masculine, but anyone with confidence can pull this off. As long as you're okay with smelling different than everyone else.
Today, this fragrance will be considered old-fashioned. This is the kind of thing you might get scoffed at for wearing in public. However, for me in 2024 - nothing smells like this. This is complex and incredibly exciting. If someone bottled up something just like this today, I don't know if it would sell, but it would be obvious to everyone what incredible quality, craft and lasting power this has.

Sorry, I've gone on too long, but I think this is a great one. It conjures the smells of the human body - its sweat, its odor, its musk - in a way that most fragrances never do these days. In a culture obsessed with hygiene, this one is dirty, sexy and subversive.

05/13/2012

8.5Scent 10Longevity 10Sillage

Hordak
39 Reviews

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Hordak

Helpful Review 9

Druidic

Smalto for Men is one of the fragrances for which I have created a special category. It is a so-called druid scent. A scent that, when I perceive it, conjures up in my mind a wise druid wandering in the forest, gathering herbs, weathered by the elements. Some fragrances fall into this category for me, mostly the dark green wood and herb scents like Puig's Quorum, Derrick by Orlane, Jacomo de Jacomo, Krizia Uomo, the king among druidic scents, Route du Vétiver by MPG, and the one discussed here, Smalto for Men.
Initially very intense, I see the druid filling herb pouches at his belt, capturing fresh resin in vials, and adorning his linen robe with ferns and grasses to avoid disturbing or attracting attention in the forest.
It first reminds me most of Jacomo de Jacomo in terms of smokiness, which only becomes apparent in the first minute; after that, all the green and brown herb and resin notes emerge and gradually unfold into a wonderful whole. As is usual with druids, or 80s powerhouse fragrances, the sillage and longevity are impeccable.
I warn all those who prefer elegant, subtle, or even inconspicuous office scents; with this fragrance, you will transform into a druid sitting by the campfire in friendship with bears and wolves!

10/21/2014

7.5Scent 5Longevity 5Sillage

FabianO
1009 Reviews

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FabianO

Very helpful Review 3

Miraculix sends his regards - a friendly forest herb-leather companion

I can only agree with my predecessor Hordak - the "Druidic" aspect cannot be dismissed in this Smalto.

I have the dear druid Miraculix from the Asterix comics right in front of my inner eye, as the sympathy really stands out here.
There are so many herbal, bitter, sometimes medicinal, and in the worst case, resinous-knotted pine scents that are not really my thing.

"Francesco Smalto," on the other hand, does a lot right. It creates a fitting arc of forest, freshness, accessibility, and Italian style understanding.

While the also 1987 released "Smalto" represents the sweet-resinous herbal fellow, "Francesco" tends more towards a fresh-spicy direction:

Fruity orange slices, nestled on lavender blossoms, kick things off.
Rosemary and anise immediately signal a slightly herbal forest connection, which is really gentle and pleasant.
The heart phase is further accompanied by some lavender, with the sweet-bitter flowers, especially cyclamen and rose geranium, conveying a nice forest meadow impression in late summer. All very friendly, just nice. Like Miraculix.

A hint of forest floor comes from patchouli, while moss and leather in the base are fresh. No, I really find nothing bad about this scent. Except perhaps its mediocre longevity and sillage.

06/26/2022

8.5Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Minigolf
2527 Reviews

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Minigolf

Helpful Review 4

Once again on the paths of the forest....

.... this time perhaps in the Giant Mountains, where the good old Rübezahl resides. This good-natured "forest spirit" has quite a lot to offer that makes the hiker's heart race.
Dark firs and cedars send their wonderfully resinous-green scents on a journey, while the ferns by the wayside greet with moist, herbaceous aromas. Those who keep their nose open will not miss the delicate floral aroma that lush green meadows exude. Including the spicy herbs that have also found their favorite spots in the sunny clearing.
By the long, white beard of the "Old Man"... there are also wonderful mosses to be caught, cascading down in long, silvery-gray, finely branched trails from the branches of ancient oaks!
This "inky" fairy-tale forest aroma fits there as if it were the magical power of the mountain forest. Very natural, and equally "Rübezahl's" work.
And as for the weather there: It has just had a refreshing, longer rain shower. I had waited out under a dense tree crown. Now the sun is breaking through, and everything around in the forest, clearing, meadow, and field joyfully sends out all the pleasant scents they have to offer. Including a warm, woody "sun note," the amber.
Long-lasting, fine sniffing fun for all forest lovers and those who want to become one :-))

Statements

12 short views on the fragrance

ChicoRoch1

3 years ago

1

Wonderful heavy Green fragrance with plenty of nuclear energy

SchatzSucher

3 years ago

8.5Scent 7Longevity 6Sillage

30

29

After a somewhat rough start, it develops into a wonderfully classic scent with green-spicy, floral undertones, mossy and leathery...

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Ergoproxy

3 years ago

8.5Scent 8Longevity 6Sillage

18

19

It reminds me a bit of the first Montana for men. A very herbal green and sharp start, then it becomes softer....

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Pluto

3 years ago

9Scent 7Longevity 6Sillage

15

13

I'm in the woods with a leather jacket and anise candies, inhaling herbs of all kinds, garden clove, moss, wood. I'm feeling so good. Wonderful vintage.

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