Francesco Smalto 1987 Eau de Toilette

Francesco Smalto (Eau de Toilette) by Francesco Smalto
Bottle Design:
Pierre Dinand
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8.3 / 10 46 Ratings
A popular perfume by Francesco Smalto for men, released in 1987. The scent is green-spicy. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Green
Spicy
Woody
Leathery
Fougère

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
LavenderLavender RosemaryRosemary TarragonTarragon AniseedAniseed NeroliNeroli BergamotBergamot
Heart Notes Heart Notes
FernFern CedarCedar CyclamenCyclamen PatchouliPatchouli CarnationCarnation GeraniumGeranium
Base Notes Base Notes
OakmossOakmoss Tonka beanTonka bean LeatherLeather MuskMusk AmberAmber
Ratings
Scent
8.346 Ratings
Longevity
7.532 Ratings
Sillage
6.931 Ratings
Bottle
6.931 Ratings
Submitted by Baux, last update on 06/01/2025.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Francesco Smalto (After Shave) by Francesco Smalto
Francesco Smalto After Shave
Enrico Coveri pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) by Enrico Coveri
Enrico Coveri pour Homme Eau de Toilette
Borsalino (Eau de Toilette) by Borsalino
Borsalino Eau de Toilette
Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) (Eau de Toilette) by Jacomo
Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) Eau de Toilette

Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
7
Pricing
8
Bottle
10
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Noturfave

91 Reviews
Noturfave
Noturfave
1  
Fearless and aromatic fougere. Absolutely up to no good.
This opens with a heavy blast of green herbs, the ones you'd commonly use in Italian cooking. I almost swear there's cumin in the initial blast, because it's somewhat musty like body odor. Then there is a lovely anisic, sweet tarragon, and the whole thing is anchored by smoke and patchouli.

From my 2024 point of view, this smells like a man with a moustache or beard, or at least hairy chested, with most of the buttons open on his shirt. He has a lot of confidence. He is definitely above 30. He's bold, imposing, and might even be wearing some gold on his fingers or neck. (Sorry - but this evokes Tony Soprano).

I could also imagine a woman. A badass butch - the kind of woman who would wear Bandit (1944) Parfum - dressed in a full suit and trousers, with suspenders, reminding me of Madonna in her best suit looks, or Marlene Dietrich in drag in The Blue Angel, or the Bandit advertisement in the 1940s, with the women dressed all in black and parading with their knives, masks and crowbars to rob banks and generally get up to no good.

It's quite traditionally masculine, but anyone with confidence can pull this off. As long as you're okay with smelling different than everyone else.
Today, this fragrance will be considered old-fashioned. This is the kind of thing you might get scoffed at for wearing in public. However, for me in 2024 - nothing smells like this. This is complex and incredibly exciting. If someone bottled up something just like this today, I don't know if it would sell, but it would be obvious to everyone what incredible quality, craft and lasting power this has.

Sorry, I've gone on too long, but I think this is a great one. It conjures the smells of the human body - its sweat, its odor, its musk - in a way that most fragrances never do these days. In a culture obsessed with hygiene, this one is dirty, sexy and subversive.
0 Comments
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
6  
Hairy-chested devil
Smalto pour Homme is a great powerhouse, much more peculiar and original than it may seem (or well, than it seemed to me). Basically it opens with a balsamic-citrus accord on a gloomy base of smoke, bold tan leather, oak moss, woods (vetiver, perhaps sandalwood), with a peculiar sort of "outdoors" herbal-anisic-tea breeze going around (I guess due to fennel and tarragon), together with other unusual and really well-played notes: I get something boozy, licorice, a colorful blend of spices and herbs. Somehow it’s a conventional “dark smoky fougère”, but it does just a step further, showing quite an interesting set of unique features: it does not have all the raw, austere, dry shadiness of many leathers like Knize, it’s not a skanky animalic scent like Ungaro II, not an oak moss beast like Quorum, and not only a herbal-aromatic fougère like Tsar... yet it has something of all of these, reshuffled in a an interesting, pleasant and recognizable way. It has something raw and playful, but at the same time it show a manly dark sophistication, really classy in its own way. It’s a powerhouse fougère, but it’s not similar to any other in particular, except for the names I mentioned above (Smalto basically smells like their hippie homeless cousin). And actually, for as much weird it may sound, it reminds me also of some contemporary niche scents, mostly for the unusual contrasts, the creativity, and the fact that it manages to smell not outdated at all. It’s much bold though, and after a while it may start to smell a bit boring (also because of the load of harsh spices you get on the drydown, similar as Jacomo de Jacomo for instance). As many powerhouses, it projects like a devil and lasts for ages. To rediscover!

7,5/10
0 Comments

Statements

1 short view on the fragrance
ChicoRoch1ChicoRoch1 3 years ago
Wonderful heavy Green fragrance with plenty of nuclear energy
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