Sparkling by Holika Holika
Bottle Design:
Carré Basset
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7.0 / 10 120 Ratings
A perfume by Holika Holika for women and men, released in 1997. The scent is woody-resinous. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Woody
Resinous
Oriental
Spicy
Smoky

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
SaffronSaffron
Heart Notes Heart Notes
OudOud Copaiba balsamCopaiba balsam Vaporized HingeVaporized Hinge
Base Notes Base Notes
CypriolCypriol Gaiac woodGaiac wood LabdanumLabdanum AmberAmber Hexagonal VinylHexagonal Vinyl

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.0120 Ratings
Longevity
8.392 Ratings
Sillage
6.978 Ratings
Bottle
8.590 Ratings
Value for money
5.813 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 07/31/2025.
Interesting Facts
The fragrance was part of the collection Arabian Nights.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Gao by Xerjoff
Gao
Oud Cashmere Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Oud Cashmere Mood
Oud Velvet Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Oud Velvet Mood
Nuvolari by Rubini
Nuvolari
'Ilm by Kemi
'Ilm
Armani Privé - Oud Royal by Giorgio Armani
Armani Privé - Oud Royal

Reviews

12 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Drseid

822 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
1  
Real Oud, But Not Real Wearable...
A relatively positive recommendation on Pure Oud from me. It has a rubbery, slightly medicinal Gaiac heart mixed with real Oud that I find intriguing and is keeping me interested in smelling it throughout its development. Amber, and maybe a hint of musk join the Oud to form the base of the scent. I have to give By Kilian some points for using real oud in its composition, and keeping to the scent's name in spirit. Projection is above average here, but longevity is only average. This is not the easiest scent to wear, but still nice on the whole. I would say 3.5/5.

If this more straight Presentation of oud scent is too much for you, then the other By Kilian Arabian Nights oud scents may be more appealing to you... Rose Oud for a Rose dominant oud, and Incense Oud for a reference incense scent that may not contain much or even any real oud, but smells incredible nonetheless.
0 Comments
ClaireV

969 Reviews
ClaireV
ClaireV
1  
Not Pure Oud but captures some of the dark, smooth beauty of aged, woodier oud oils
Pure Oud is the racehorse of the Western oud-based fragrances; all sinew and nerve, and not an inch of fat to spare. Kilian could have easily named this Oud Noir or Dark Oud, because Pure Oud really does convey the inky, matte darkness of a moonless night sky. It smells like a black leather jacket tinctured into a pool of black tar and then vaporized into a mist of gasoline.

Pure Oud draws a line around itself and stays within it. Real oud oil has a smell that spills messily out over every line you've drawn for yourself; the brazenly-named Pure Oud (it is purely synthetic) is self-contained. But they do share a common denominator - both smell other-worldly and somewhat stark. For me, it is the Western-based oud fragrance that comes closest to mimicking the smell of real oud oil. Not a sour, fermented-smelling Hindi or Assam oud oil, but one of those aged, dry oud oils where you can pick out hints of leather, dried fruit, melting plastic lunch boxes, and smoke.

Caveat: Pure Oud is a minimalist take on a maximalist smell, i.e., it does not approach the complexity or range of aromas of real oud oil. Nothing this obviously synthetic can come close to copying something so rudely natural. But the experience of using oud oils and attars is not interchangeable with or comparable to using traditional fragrance; one is a quiet, more private experience geared toward internal contemplation; the other is a projection of oneself to the wider world. We shouldn't keep holding up one against the other in a race for authenticity. Prefer instead that benchmark of Guy Robert's: Does it smell good? And yes, Pure Oud does smell good – very good indeed.

I find Pure Oud to be very quiet, but long-lasting. Sometimes, to turn up the volume a bit, I re-spray during the day, twice, or even three times. This way, it builds up on the skin in layers of translucent ink - leather upon rubber upon gasoline, until it finally pushes off the skin in a sulky swirl of woodsmoke.
0 Comments
Ovaissaleem

61 Reviews
Ovaissaleem
Ovaissaleem
0  
Pure Oud
Notes: Saffron, Copaiva Balsam, Oud, Amber, Cypriol, Guaiac Wood and Labdanum

Perfumer: Calice Becker

I love Oud and really enjoying Pure Oud by Kilian. Yes, the Oud here is on the synthetic side. This is a pretty linear scent, Smokey, a bit Spicy oudy woody fragrance.
0 Comments
1Scent
Gerry

3 Reviews
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Gerry
Gerry
Top Review 24  
Chemical Works Kilian
Gasoline, used oil, nitro thinner, burnt rubber, acetone, burnt wood … no, my nose can't take it anymore. That's enough!

Is this perfumer's art or the result of a chemical accident?

I recognize this scent mixture. Lolita's comment reminded me of it again.

I know this from the time when I worked in a steel mill - at a rolling mill for rail profiles. When "building" or repairing rolls, we were up to our elbows in a sludge of old oil, bearing grease, and tar pitch.

Afterward, we scrubbed our skin in the washroom with harsh hand cleaner and soap to get rid of the dirt and, above all, the smell. The work uniforms went into the washing machine for two cycles. After the first cycle, they looked clean but still smelled of oil and solvents.

Do I want to smell like I just had a grueling shift in the rolling mill? No, why would I.

Pure Oud is sold in the "Arabian Nights" line. I don't smell any Arabian nights here. I have to say, the theme misses the mark. "Steelworkers night shift" would have been more fitting.
12 Comments
Bakerscookie

6 Reviews
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Bakerscookie
Bakerscookie
15  
Much Smoke, Little Oud - the typical Western wannabe Oud scent.
I first encountered Pure Oud by Kilian at the beginning of my perfume journey. Oud has fascinated me from the start, as for many, everything began with Tom Ford Oud Wood, due to numerous appearances of the fragrance in interviews and YouTube blogs. I learned relatively early that TF-OW supposedly doesn't contain much Oud, which then sent me on a journey to explore the ingredient.

I quickly learned that Oud smells "somehow sharp-smoky." Therefore, when I first sniffed Pure Oud by Kilian, I would have probably given it a 10/10. Because it is smoky, with a slight medicinal sharpness. If the scent DNA were to develop over time, it could have performed very well even now, but unfortunately, the (quite beautiful) fragrance remains pretty much the same throughout its lifespan as it does right after the first spray. The positive aspect is that it doesn't smell sweet-spicy like "His Majesty The Oud" by Atkinsons, which reminded me more of a Christmas candle than real Oud. Nevertheless, the DNA here is somewhat dull and flat.

Which brings us to the point: I doubt that there is much Oud in here. And what is present does not come from an exquisite, resin-infused part, but rather probably from a lighter part of the tree. Under the "smoky" scent roof, I can hardly perceive the "main star." Sure, there is "something woody"... but "something" is no longer enough for me. Typically, Oud distillates are light, complex, and long-lasting. It's a shame that all of that is missing here.

Compared to other fragrances in this price range (e.g., the XerJoff Oud Stars collection or Tom Ford Oud Wood Intense), longevity and projection are rather mediocre. After two hours, I can no longer perceive anything, on the skin it lasts four to five. I should mention that many fragrances feel rather weak to me today that didn't a year ago (Tauer's L'Oudh would be another example). If the longevity were better, I would be a fan despite the linear scent progression. But unfortunately, that is no longer enough for me.

Therefore, Pure Oud by Kilian might be worthwhile for those who enjoy a smoky scent that showcases this typical medicinal Oud facet without containing much of the actual ingredient. And for those who want to get rid of the scent quickly. For the price I paid, I am satisfied. However, I would not pay full retail for it.
1 Comment
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Statements

13 short views on the fragrance
11
2
How fruity is lacquer paint? Are toxic fumes sexy? Was that warm woody finish just a dream? Do I possibly like all of this?
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2 Comments
11
4
attractive - repulsive | Dream - Reality
Pure Oud plays: smoky, dirty, pulsating, leathery, dark, sexy, resinous, longing, unhappy...
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4 Comments
7
2
Nargarmotha-Cypriol-Oud (like most!) without the obligatory rose, but with balsamic notes and saffron. Dark. Bitter. Very good!
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2 Comments
5
1
Saffron, cypriol, and synthetic oud. At first, it comes across as a bit leathery, bitter with that typical medicinal "oud" you find in the...
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1 Comment
5
1
Completely underrated. Harsh, but not animalic oud. Instead, it's infused with gasoline and leather. Definitely ♂. I will never forget it!
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1 Comment
4
2
0% Oud (real & quality Oud smells different!!)
100% chemicals!
I only smell synthetic saffron!
I love saffron, so it still gets points!
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2 Comments
7 years ago
4
1
Oily-animalistic oud, feels diluted & lacking love to me. If you’re into it, "Oud Cashmere Mood" is a well-made alternative.
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1 Comment
4
Kilian & me - it just doesn't work: dark, resinous oud with chemical notes & too few "light bringers" (amber, saffron, labdanum).
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0 Comments
9 years ago
3
I find the scent incredibly sexy, alluring, and animalistic. On me ;-) Definitely not unisex. 100% masculine.
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0 Comments
2
balsamic, subtle Oud with saffron in the foreground. A hint of suede
a nice scent, that’s it :-)
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