Askew by Humięcki & Graef
Bottle Design:
Bel Epok
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7.4 / 10 90 Ratings
A perfume by Humięcki & Graef for men, released in 2008. The scent is spicy-leathery. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy
Leathery
Green
Citrus
Fresh

Fragrance Notes

Birch tarBirch tar GrapefruitGrapefruit LeatherLeather VetiverVetiver Egyptian mimosaEgyptian mimosa GingerGinger Guatemala cardamomGuatemala cardamom

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.490 Ratings
Longevity
8.177 Ratings
Sillage
7.374 Ratings
Bottle
7.770 Ratings
Value for money
7.211 Ratings
Submitted by DirkDS, last update on 07/12/2025.
Interesting Facts
The fragrances of Humiecki & Graef each refer to an aspect of human emotionality. In case of Askew it is anger, or rage.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Sundrunk by Imaginary Authors
Sundrunk
Supernova by The Dua Brand
Supernova
Blackpepper by Comme des Garçons
Blackpepper
Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne
Orange Sanguine
Mint & Tonic by Atkinsons
Mint & Tonic
Copper by Comme des Garçons
Copper

Reviews

10 in-depth fragrance descriptions
WRoth

154 Reviews
WRoth
WRoth
2  
Askew
This fragrance opens with an explosion of ginger, grapefruit and cardamom. However, as the alcohol dries on my skin the bitter birch tar and dry leather notes overwhelm the fruit notes and the fragrance is rather unpleasant when smelled close to the skin. Thankfully it quickly settles in a very harmonious grapefruit, cardamom and leather mix with a smoky vetiver base. The fragrance is very masculine, refined and exceedingly pleasant to wear from this stage on. Like Skarb, it is very linear, but has a better lasting power as well as a great sillage.
0 Comments
Palonera

467 Reviews
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Palonera
Palonera
Top Review 33  
...because he simply can't help it
I almost got kicked out.
Almost - and that on the evening of that memorable July 13, 2014, the evening that was to change the world forever.
At that point, the game hadn't even started, no player was on the field, no ball was rolling over the hallowed grass in Rio - I had only sprayed a little, wanting to telepathically-aromatherapeutically transport strength, greatness, calm composure, and inner strength to where they seemed useful to me.
Not only over there in Brazil, where that evening a weeks-long drama was to reach its climax - the man beside me was also fidgeting and nibbling, swaying unusually sanguinely between overflowing euphoria and disconcerting pessimism, as if it were also about glory and honor and a green-golden trophy for him.
I was sure that "Askew" would help - this herbaceous-strong-masculine scent with its deep emotionality, its tamed-bundled primal force would send exactly the right signals and steer the evening onto an orderly course.
I thought.
And five minutes later, I no longer understood the world: "What smells so overpowering here? Please tell me it's not you?!"
A disapproving look, wrinkled nose, ostentatious distancing.
Mumbled words, "Eighties" and "old gentlemen" - what was this person talking about?!
Surely not about me, surely not about "Askew"?

Not about "Askew," which opens so herbaceous, distinctive, and masculine on my skin and gives me the impression for a brief moment that I have smelled this scent many times before, very often.
Men's fragrances from the seventies, the eighties, even the nineties come to mind, those that left no doubt as to which gender they were created for.
But just a few seconds later, a distinct lemon breaks through the phalanx of bitter-herbaceous accords, pairing with a pot of peppermint tea and a few wisps of smoke from the recently extinguished wood fire in the background.
Green and herbaceous, powerful yet transparent, very close to nature and certainly masculine.
"Askew" remains in this stage for a long time before darker notes gently, cautiously emerge, spicier, woodier, more assertive, also sharper and more massive, physical and - yes: erotic.
"Testostérone!" - and indeed, the further "Askew" develops on my skin, the stronger my associations become with this predatory-dark-leathery Sentifique, which seems to divide opinions similarly to how "Askew" does.
After an hour and a half, all the fruity, harmless-herbaceous notes have faded, surrounding me with birch-tar darkness, dry wood, and salty spice.
A man, without a doubt.
A big, calm, powerful man, bundled and grounded, knowing, wanting, waiting.
A man with body, mind, and soul, with values and desires, who walks his path without hesitation, without doubt.
In the Highlands and in Rio, in the desert and in the Himalayas, at the negotiation table as well as on the football field.
And who wins in the end - because he simply can't help it.

Whoever wears "Askew" stands out - inevitably.
Whether positively or negatively is ultimately a question of dosage.
Before the finale, I sprayed three times - twice too much, as I know three testing days later.
"Askew" shows presence, surrounds its wearer like an aura, without flooding spaces, without pushing itself to the forefront - and yet heads turned, eyes followed me from men and women, a little irritated, a little fascinated.
And the beloved?
He stole "Askew" from me.

PS: Thank you with a kiss to Ergoproxy!
19 Comments
Meggi

1018 Reviews
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Meggi
Meggi
Top Review 32  
For the Dead, You Pay Me Customs
Anger as a scent. Aha. This is new to me and requires some exploration. Let's approach the topic from more familiar ground:

If there is a scale of intensity of anger in music, perhaps Beethoven's "Anger over the Lost Groschen" - a tongue-in-cheek title that doesn't even originate from the master himself - marks one end. The other might be the lines sung by Alexander Kipnis in the role of Hunding: "It is hated by all and me." and "For the dead, you pay me customs.", with which the grim German praises blood vengeance. To be heard in the first act of Wagner's "Die Walküre" (Metropolitan Opera, December 1941, Erich Leinsdorf; youtube.com/watch?v=S9W-REUSzH8 - at 27:34 and 28:44 min.).

Kipnis remained just below the threshold of screaming in both phrases; he didn't need to do that. Nevertheless, Hunding's barely controllable anger is clearly evident. Only the guest right prevents him from attacking the enemy encountered in his own house on the spot.

I mention this because Askew does not shout at me either. I had expected something different. After all, the manufacturers themselves speak of the energy released through destruction, from which new things arise. This suspiciously reminds me of creative destruction according to Joseph Schumpeter, thus linking to my studies in "economics" - undoubtedly one of my more arduous life phases. The latter is just a side note.

Perhaps I need more patience and later something will shout? The opening is quite calm, in any case. It has something mushroom-like ("z", not "s"). Along with bitter citrus fruit. Plus a mop soaked in floor cleaner. And mustiness. As a frame, I am offered tamed birch tar, which has nothing scratchy or dark about it. Yes, it is so little dark that I could have fiddled with it for a while without announcement. This, however, does not prevent it from noticeably unfolding that already diagnosed mustiness. My colleague remarked upon entering my office: "Smells like must. Decaying leaves; forest floor or something." Well great - that's exactly how I wanted to smell.

A new beginning is urgently needed, that much is clear. Hopefully, something will shout (or compliment, for that matter) the must away. After all, the conflict between Hunding and Siegmund meets its tragic end in a thunderous catastrophe in the second act of "Die Walküre." I wait. And since Mr. Wuchsa has already invoked the metaphorical phoenix from the ashes regarding change, I am instead symbolically waiting for the tonic after the Bachian modulation or the bell signaling the end of the religion class. But what ultimately happens does not fit into the verbal arsenal of marketing weapons.

There is simply a quick shift: A residual sourness, which due to its blunt-soapy nature reminds me more of a remnant of bergamot than grapefruit, raises a fresh-clean note that is merely grounded by the tar. Over the course of the afternoon, it gradually turns more watery-fresh-soapy, the remaining tar brightens, and Askew could almost be considered classically influenced in style. Characterful-bitter, even noble! Perfect for a suit, who would have thought? I am very taken with the uniquely original nobility that Askew now radiates.

This can now definitely claim to have been newly created. Only: Do I want to spend the morning being modern for a quick halftime shift towards a wonderfully wearable scent? Well, better than the other way around, at least one has something to look forward to.

Conclusion: Scent at the front somewhere between "phew" and exhausting (one to two hours would have sufficed for me), at the back really great (you could have added the saved hours there); overall okay and undoubtedly quite exciting. The theme, however, remains more of a riddle to me. And for such an experimental scent, I find a 100ml jug size completely unsuitable.

I thank Ergoproxy for the sample - ahem: One advantage of 100ml is indeed...
16 Comments
Ergoproxy

1130 Reviews
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Ergoproxy
Ergoproxy
Top Review 1  
I don't always like it straight!
What does one do when vacationing in the high mountains and winter weather makes hiking in the great outdoors impossible? Right, you drive to one of the picturesque Alpine towns and try to make the dreary weather a little better by shopping.
So it happened that we planned a trip to Innsbruck, Austria, on a Saturday.

The drive there was already great, thanks in part to the clearing weather, the impressive scenery, and the winding road.

I didn't have high hopes of buying any fragrances, as I hadn't taken the time beforehand to find out about the local perfumeries.

Just before we were about to head back home, I stumbled upon an offer in a small perfumery that I couldn't ignore.
The brand Humiecki & Graef was being discontinued, and the fragrances were offered at half price.

I only intended to buy Bosque, but then I had Askew sprayed first on a fabric strip and then on my skin, and I was instantly hooked.

When my husband also expressed his enthusiasm, it was clear that Askew had to come home with us too.

Once we were back home, I checked what Parfumo had to say about my new treasure and was quite surprised.
The fragrance name means "askew" and is supposed to be the olfactory representation of anger. Aha! There were also two rather unflattering comments.

Well, I have always had my own taste, and the quirky often fits well into my concept.

Although, I don't find Askew to be that quirky at all.

Sure, it doesn't exactly fall into the crowd-pleaser category, but I've tested much quirkier and angrier fragrances since I've been here at Parfumo.

The fragrance concept of Askew feels cohesive to me overall.

To my nose, the scent doesn't start off really citrusy, but rather herbally green. I can only detect a hint of bitter acidity from the grapefruit. This top note isn't silky smooth, but somehow it has its charm.

After a short while, a spicy leather note joins the herbal green, and the bitterness then subtly recedes into the background.

In the base, the herbal aspect diminishes a bit, and now I perceive the leather scent as more waxy and creamy, as if one had just applied leather conditioner.

The longevity is excellent, as with most fragrances from this brand, and the sillage is also noteworthy. A steady hand is required when dosing, or else the surroundings might feel compelled to express their displeasure.

By the way, the theme of anger still doesn't resonate with me even after wearing it multiple times, especially since I've received positive comments about Askew. Well, that's something everyone has to figure out for themselves.

As for the quirkiness, it probably does require a certain preference for the more experimental side of perfumery to warm up to Askew, but that's ultimately the point of a niche fragrance.
11 Comments
Apicius

1328 Reviews
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Apicius
Apicius
Very helpful Review 11  
It Stinks!
Whether Askew actually expresses anger, as conceived by H & G, is another question. In my last test, I really didn't like the scent; I even found it somewhat disgusting. This is due to the leather note, which I perceive as somewhat rotten and musty.

Askew is thus a leather fragrance. Upon spraying, a very sharp lemon is immediately noticeable, which lingers for quite a while. More lemon juice than the indicated grapefruit. As it fades, it hands over the baton to a vaguely defined weak ethereal note, which could be something minty. However, before any summery-fresh assumptions arise, let me remind you - it is a leather fragrance and nothing else. Not fine leather, but very robust and heavily tanned. Not new leather, but often used and many years old.

In 1987, I participated in a group trip to the Soviet Union. With enthusiasm, we youthful tourists, in line with the fashion of the then Perestroika, raided the army departments of the department stores - as long as the completely astonished sales staff went along with it. Among my haul were a Lenin bust, a record with Soviet army choirs and songs from the Great Patriotic War, as well as two uniform belts, one made of brown leather from the Red Army and one made of black-dyed leather from the Red Fleet! And they smell just like the leather note in Askew - perhaps I can give some readers an idea with that?

Askew also reminds me of worn jeans - frequently worn, rarely washed. Of course, with a wide leather belt. In other words - it smells a bit. You really have to like that! I am generally not a fan of leather fragrances, and this leather comes across quite alone, aside from the little bit of lemon juice. From an esoteric niche label, I would expect a little more sophistication.

If it’s going to be strong leather, then please in the form of a new leather jacket instead of a shabby pair of jeans. In this sense, I definitely prefer the clean, oud-enhanced Cuir d’Arabie by Montale. Both fragrances define the realm of strong leather scents. I recommend a comparison test.
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Statements

26 short views on the fragrance
40
38
In search
In blue silver
Lemon candies
And ginger juice
Everything leather has probably dissolved
Between the flakes
Of birch tar
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38 Comments
36
32
A distinctive blend of grapefruit, ginger, and cardamom. Bright, synth-fresh, citrusy.
Vetiver green, leathery, smoky in the background.*
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32 Comments
5 years ago
20
15
I can't join in the praise; the closet was once wiped down with citrus cleaner, closed, and then abruptly opened.
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15 Comments
19
18
Classic, masculine, striking
Subtle with style
Aquatic grace,
Fresh start
Rests on gentle
Leather tones
Synthetic?
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18 Comments
20
13
You need a certain tolerance for the mix of birch tar-leather-rubber and grapefruit, but it offers psychedelic insights.
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13 Comments
15
14
Fragrance takes time..
Starts quite citrusy..
Leather is rather subtle. It could be more dominant.
But the combination is definitely unique.
For me...
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14 Comments
15
12
Icy wind on heated skin
zesty grapefruit cocktail
(ginger garnished with birch tar),
served with leather
Fascinating and captivating
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12 Comments
14
7
A rather special leather scent with a great, quirky synthetic twist that gets softer with wear. Still amazing!
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7 Comments
13
2
Behind a false smile, it simmers,
like acid rain on hot asphalt.
The abandoned leather sandal in the tracks:
a picture of urban dystopia.
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2 Comments
9
13
Good against anger: take sour-makes-fun, ginger sparkle, galbanum green cardamom, airy vetiver, a sensitive flower, and lightness.
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13 Comments
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