Skarb Humięcki & Graef 2008

Not only niche but also avant garde – that's what the fragrances of this German based brand are. Skarb is already out for five years, and it somehow appears to me like a blueprint to the more recent L'Eau Froide by Serge Lutens and Amazinggreen by Comme des Garçons.

Skarb is not so entirely greenish like these two – yet, the somehow similar main note is an example for green and brownish tartness. It is described as absinthe, barley and lovage by H & G, but for me, there are also links to carrot seed or maybe even fennel. More than that, if gives me the impression of a still green, juicy and extremely bitter walnut fresh from the tree. Since this main note does not change, I suppose it is rather a single new molecule than an accord. There is almost no development, except for a short coniferous top note – pretty much Acqua di Selva.

Skarb is the Polish word for treasure, and since H & G always dedicate their fragrances to a certain mood or emotion, one can wonder if this is comprehensible or not. The face of the fragrance at the H & G website is a sad young man with a tear in his eye – expressing melancholy. Indeed, the bitterness that I perceive as a green walnut note does have the quality of bitter and salty tears, and so this assignment by H & G is not completely arbitrary.

With its quality of sadness, Skarb can be preferably worn on rainy days. It will conserve and express any gloomy mood, not uplift. I guess most people would prefer something nice and friendly on rainy or sad days, but those who take a journey into melancholy once in a while might find a companion here.

The longevity of Skarb is outstanding, plus the basic green walnut note is somewhat strange. It goes into extremes, and the way that bitterness is handled here excels the other more popular way – puristic woodiness.

This altogether requires the most possible discreetness when applying, and so, Skarb is not for beginners. I own a bottle of it, but I would not say that an experimental fragrance like Skarb can be something you “like”. I appreciate it, and I respect the courage to release fragrances that appeal to negative emotions. Some of the H & G fragrances – including Skarb – go far beyond the usual and so can be a bit demanding. Skarb is hardly wearable on an everyday basis. It should be regarded as a work of art rather than a basic commodity.

Even with a gentle application on the chest and back, the essential oils are released. They ease breathing and alleviate cold symptoms such as a runny nose and cough, while simultaneously causing really nasty headaches and body aches.

The next time the little ones are plagued by a cold, gently and effectively relieve their symptoms with Skarb VapoRub. However, due to the high risk of contagion, do not hold them in your arms; instead, confine them to a room with a 'Silent Staircase'; (Tip: Don’t let Supernanny and the entire RTL team into your apartment!).
Feed the snotty brats pizza and plaice for 14 days. While this won't help against the flu, it's the only thing that fits under the door.

Anyone who has tested the fragrances from Humięcki & Graef immediately feels that Christophe Laudamiel was able to unleash his creative freedom on this project. This approach is also evident in "Skarb." It is a perfume that is thoughtfully designed and complex in its olfactory structure. One experiences something here that is described as a star-shaped structure. The notes appear like individual points. Instead of a linear progression, they unfold in layers, sometimes showing themselves in isolation, then coming together again to form a harmonious whole.

Although lovage represents a prominent note in the composition, it never feels disturbing or too forward to me. Instead, it integrates subtly and harmoniously. It gives the fragrance a vegetal freshness that never becomes too aggressive or overpowering. Frankincense and myrrh provide depth and a certain weight to the scent. Chamomile brings a subtle warmth and calmness to the fragrance. It has a nostalgic effect. It evokes memories of sheltered childhood days, of moments when one lay sick in bed and was lovingly cared for - the scent of chamomile tea in the air, offering comfort and security.

The atmosphere that this fragrance creates is special. It envelops the person wearing it like an invisible aura - sensual, avant-garde, and mysterious. It seems to fit well with Berlin. Perhaps because I first perceived it there, or maybe because it perfectly captures the urban melancholy and creative energy of this city.

Speaking of melancholy: According to the brand, "Skarb" embodies the deep Slavic soul and melancholy. This concept runs like a red thread throughout the entire fragrance. The wistfulness and contemplation it conveys do not feel oppressive or heavy, as I experienced with "Méchant Loup" by L'Artisan Parfumeur, for example. Instead, "Skarb" unfolds a warmth and intimacy that is both comforting and elegant.

I find it interesting how the fragrance can vary depending on one's mood and the time of day. Sometimes I perceive the frankincense more strongly, sometimes the myrrh, sometimes the calming chamomile, and in the next moment, it is simply an enveloping scent that refuses to be pinned down. This flexibility in perception shows how complex "Skarb" actually is. One could almost say that the fragrance changes with oneself - as if it reflects one's inner state.

Note or warning: The longevity is enormous. It remains present on clothing and bed linens for days. Only a shower can wash it off the skin, but even that takes time. A scent that stays present but never becomes intrusive.

Overall, "Skarb" is a perfume that one experiences, not just wears. It cannot be categorized into conventional categories and fits into no drawer. And that is precisely its strength. It is unique, unconventional, and hard to grasp. For me, a true rarity in the world of perfume. A treasure, as its name in Polish promises - and that is exactly what it is for me.

The theme of "melancholy" is indeed present in Skarb, as it greets me with a soft spiciness and a sweet-fruity note.
The absinthe?
The barley is also soft and musky - accompanied by a soothing cup of chamomile tea.
It smells comforting and soothing, like mom's warm barley soup, which was cooked for strength during times of discomfort.
And Skarb is indeed strengthening.

One gains a different, a better perspective on things.

The incense has a cleansing effect - as if it drives away all evil thoughts.
My friend regularly ensures positive Feng Shui in her home with incense.
I don’t find that "far-fetched".
The room aroma is indeed clearer afterwards.

The lovage holds back discreetly, so that no Maggi note is disturbing.

Overall, a pleasant fragrance, with a touch of sentiment, that can be used both on the skin and as a room scent.

For my part, I experience neither menthol-medical notes, although I can understand the association, nor myrrh and incense here. Skarb is one of those fragrances that is seamlessly "stitched" together, meaning a completely unique scent has emerged that does not directly remind me of individual notes. Accordingly, it is quite difficult to describe the fragrance accurately. Green and slightly bitter, perhaps herbal, would be a first approximation. The communication about scent color and the bottle works quite well. Underneath, the barley might come through a bit, giving it a slightly floury or ground note.

Skarb is interesting, in reference to sporty fragrances. It particularly reminded me of Comme des Garçons' "Dry Clean" from the "Synthetic" line, although less sweet and a bit more natural, minty, and herbal. But this cold ozonic, I would call it "engine room air" quality, is also present in Skarb. Perhaps it is indeed something like the scent of absinthe or a synthetic drug. The first impression was extremely positive, but after a while, I realized that this fragrance does not belong in my collection. More nature or a different interpretation of these wonderfully sounding ingredients would have been needed...