Sheherazade Jean Desprez 1983 Parfum de Toilette

Originally released in 1939 and relaunched in 1983 using the original composition, Sheherazade was only in this production for a few years before fading into obscurity once more. This is one of the most beautiful opoponax-heavy fragrances I've encountered. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a high quantity of opoponax absolute here: it's telltale complex odor profile, woody, almost oak-like, balsamic, bitter top notes and toffee-like nuances. There's also a facet that reminds me of crushing the leaves and berries of boston ivy, which I was known to do as a kid as it grew alongside a wall near where I grew up.

This opoponax, the star of Sheherazade, is accompanied by a magnificent old-world carnation accord, so peppery, clovey, honeyed and herbaceous. The interplay between the two is nothing less than intoxicating to my nose. A contrasting, flocculent fluff of mimosa, powdery yellow, becomes evident as Sheherazade enters its heart. Then there is the rose that unfurls its petals. A breathtaking opulence emerges over time, one that rivals that of Magie Noire, Opium or Cinnabar, but with a certain atmosphere that is shared with its sibling Bal a Versailles, courtesy of a civet and an IBQ/birch tar leather that heats up over time.

Lest I get too technical, the truth is that this fragrance is a seductive force, one that I can get lost in, like a good book, an arresting film, a moving work of art or music.

When I sprayed this fragrance, the anticipation was high, Sheherazade, ancient Persia, fairy tales, 1001 Nights, but what was that? A bit of alcohol, a hint of medicine hmmm that was nothing special, five minutes later I sniffed again and there it was, a sea of blossoms: jasmine, rose, iris, clove. Close your eyes and sniff again, one wanders through the palace garden of Sheherazade.
It takes a while for the fragrance to fully unfold, one should be a bit patient, but it is worth it, Sheherazade has a wonderful sillage and the longevity is unmatched.
For me, it is a warm, cozy scent as if I were wrapping myself in a cashmere sweater.