Colonias Intensas N.02 - Blue Gardenia 2021

Elysium
26.12.2023 - 09:50 AM
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Sincerity And Purity Of Soul

Blue Gardenia is the title of a song composed by Lester Lee and Bob Russell for the 1953 film The Blue Gardenia in which a recording of the song serves as a crucial plot point. The song was recorded for The Blue Gardenia by Nat King Cole who also performs it in the film as a lounge singer. The 1955 version was included in the soundtrack to the 1995 film The Bridges of Madison County. Who knows if the master perfumer was inspired by this song to compose his work?

The perfumer Luca Maffei composed Colonias Intensas N.02., which is part of La Martina’s Coleccion Privada made up of four examples. Maffei is a young Italian talent, with many masterpieces created for both designers and niche houses, and is also the CEO and perfumer of the Atelier Fragranze Milano company. Since floral accords are his favourite raw material, it’s no surprise that Blue Gardenia is a riot of watery, musky fresh florals. I own and am very fond of some of his creations, such as the Ambre Gris and the two Ouds by Alyssa, Stone for Him, and My Sir.

Blue Gardenia's first impression is green, citrus, fresh, and dewy. The fragrance unfolds with an overdose of petitgrain, mainly leaves, shoots, twigs, and even small branches. It’s slightly woody and herbaceous, its bitterness is hypnotic, and I can’t take my nose off of my skin. Other than the powdery bergamot, a little hidden by the petitgrain opulence, in the background some flowers are already kicking. Fresh, with that bitter dryness, and slightly sweet-floral are the shades that compose the opening.

Little by little, a pure and gentle white rose emerges from the greenness and tartness. The redolence of the lemony magnolia is clear, among the bitterness of the lily of the valley and the sweetness of the orange blossom. In case you missed it, white florals are abundant, including unmentioned heady tuberose, just a hint, and they all smell so natural. However, the queen of the night still has to come. I am referring to the nightly jasmine, with all its indolic and narcotic aroma, a smidgen animalic, a morsel dewy. When the rich jasmin notes take centre stage, they momentarily overshadow other blossoms. However, in a while, it takes the right path and reveals a balanced and enchanting bouquet.

The dry down leaves behind a gently woody and creamy musk. On the bottom, the creaminess of sandal and cashmere woods embraces the notes of salty amber. It is quite warm and exotic. From time to time, it reminds me of Bloom Eau de Parfum and its flankers. The sense of tuberose, jasmine, magnolia, and gardenia is pretty much the same.

The bouquet of white flowers perfectly reconstructs the aroma of the gardenia, dewy, musky and creamy. A fresh white shirt. The very first impression is being surrounded by all sorts of green vegetation. Dewy dark green leaves, grass and weeds come together to form a watery greenness. I get a lot of freshness, which makes me prefer the perfume during the middle seasons. Spring and summer mornings are spot on. Like the other items, don’t expect a projection bomb. It’s a sheer fragrance; it has moderate performance, and it lasts a few hours and then sits quickly close to the skin.

I'm basing my opinion on a bottle I've owned since December 2023 (BC 2304 310A).

-Elysium
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