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One coffee with oud, please!
Mancera and Montale were on my black list for a relatively long time. After several samples of both brands, I had at some point come to the conclusion that Pierre Montale is not a good perfumer. I got rid of this impression only by the Aoud Café of Mancera again.
Mancera, as well as the Montale fragrances, are known for one thing. Synthetics. This is also associated with an above-average high durability, but I've never really warmed up to this kind of perfumery. Synthetics can be used correctly to give fragrances the missing finishing touch. Here it seemed to me with the creations of Mr. Montale but always rather as if the synthetic would not be decorative accessory but the main component of the fragrances.
In search of a coffee fragrance, I am then but again on the brand Mancera stumbled and have made another attempt. And lo and behold, the Mr. Montale can but what. And in this case, even a lot.
The Aoud Café starts on my skin relatively bitter, tart and right in the background with the typical "Montale Oud" DNA, which you have to like. I would argue that Pierre Montale can not create a realistic oud accord. Compared to real oud oils or fragrances that create oud perfectly through accords, Pierre Montale's oud always seems very overdrawn and almost comic-like. So we don't have an authentic smelling oud here, which is not to be expected given the pricing. However, you can identify it as oud. In the opening, we have the medicinal oud here alongside a rather dark, roasted coffee note that reminds me of shoe polish or furniture polish in places. What always bothers me about many coffee scents is the way they try to put the coffee in the center. Often, they just use 5 or 6 spoons too much sugar and we end up in Starbucks with someone trying to put my name on a mug for a coffee that is way too sweet. Am I the only one who always comes up with different names for myself on this? The difference between these coffee scents and Aoud Café is that I find the latter a pleasant compromise between sweetness, roasted aromas and a darker roast. On the bergamot in the top note, by the way, you can safely whistle. I personally can't detect it. The same goes for the peach. What I do detect, however, in the form of a certain dustiness in the background, is the blackcurrant. It complements pleasantly with the medicinal oud accord. There is no real scent progression with Aoud Café. The scent starts as it ends after a little over 8 hours. Towards the end, the oud retreats somewhat and the fragrance ends creamier than it began.
The bottle is typical Mancera standard. Here in my case still with screw thread and rather inferior sprayer. Since the new bottles with magnetic cap and pressure-sensitive sprayers are a clear update.
If there were as many coffee scents as Rose+Oud scents, my heart would skip a beat with happiness. Sadly, though, that's not the case. Therefore, the Aoud Café in the field of coffee fragrances for me so far the most convincing candidate, because it just does not focus on a too sweet coffee. In my comparisons so far, Rochas Man, Follow by Kerosene and Pure Coffee by Mugler have all failed. Only the SM Café by Prin Lomros scored with a nice dark coffee note. However, this was buried under a completely tipsy cherry note (Mon Cheri) and could not develop properly.
Mancera, as well as the Montale fragrances, are known for one thing. Synthetics. This is also associated with an above-average high durability, but I've never really warmed up to this kind of perfumery. Synthetics can be used correctly to give fragrances the missing finishing touch. Here it seemed to me with the creations of Mr. Montale but always rather as if the synthetic would not be decorative accessory but the main component of the fragrances.
In search of a coffee fragrance, I am then but again on the brand Mancera stumbled and have made another attempt. And lo and behold, the Mr. Montale can but what. And in this case, even a lot.
The Aoud Café starts on my skin relatively bitter, tart and right in the background with the typical "Montale Oud" DNA, which you have to like. I would argue that Pierre Montale can not create a realistic oud accord. Compared to real oud oils or fragrances that create oud perfectly through accords, Pierre Montale's oud always seems very overdrawn and almost comic-like. So we don't have an authentic smelling oud here, which is not to be expected given the pricing. However, you can identify it as oud. In the opening, we have the medicinal oud here alongside a rather dark, roasted coffee note that reminds me of shoe polish or furniture polish in places. What always bothers me about many coffee scents is the way they try to put the coffee in the center. Often, they just use 5 or 6 spoons too much sugar and we end up in Starbucks with someone trying to put my name on a mug for a coffee that is way too sweet. Am I the only one who always comes up with different names for myself on this? The difference between these coffee scents and Aoud Café is that I find the latter a pleasant compromise between sweetness, roasted aromas and a darker roast. On the bergamot in the top note, by the way, you can safely whistle. I personally can't detect it. The same goes for the peach. What I do detect, however, in the form of a certain dustiness in the background, is the blackcurrant. It complements pleasantly with the medicinal oud accord. There is no real scent progression with Aoud Café. The scent starts as it ends after a little over 8 hours. Towards the end, the oud retreats somewhat and the fragrance ends creamier than it began.
The bottle is typical Mancera standard. Here in my case still with screw thread and rather inferior sprayer. Since the new bottles with magnetic cap and pressure-sensitive sprayers are a clear update.
If there were as many coffee scents as Rose+Oud scents, my heart would skip a beat with happiness. Sadly, though, that's not the case. Therefore, the Aoud Café in the field of coffee fragrances for me so far the most convincing candidate, because it just does not focus on a too sweet coffee. In my comparisons so far, Rochas Man, Follow by Kerosene and Pure Coffee by Mugler have all failed. Only the SM Café by Prin Lomros scored with a nice dark coffee note. However, this was buried under a completely tipsy cherry note (Mon Cheri) and could not develop properly.
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