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03/03/2020
Yatagan
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Yatagan
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53
The Phantom
Uncommented fragrances No. 144
In this case, too, I am again following a trail that Luca Turin had laid. In his compendium "Perfumes. The A-Z guide" (2008), Missoni (1981) was one of the few fragrances that I haven't been able to get to know yet - and which seem to have virtually disappeared. This can be seen here on Parfumo by the missing comment or statements, both on Parfumo and on EdP. The perfume has just six ratings and just as many owners, while the EdP lacks any proof. Nevertheless, Luca Turin gives the fragrance a detailed review and sums up that "the eerie feeling that the perfume is alive and gradually composes itself, as it were. Most perfumes are rapidly fading photos, but this one is a film" (quote LT).
For years I had been looking for the scent, for several montages I had been searching for it systematically, until I finally came across an affordable miniature with perfume (!). Of course, a fragrance from the 80s, which obviously seems to have disappeared from the market for a while, a phantom of the fragrance culture so to speak, clearly shows its age, and here again I point out that the fragrance fresh from production will have smelled differently. Nevertheless, from my point of view most of the components listed are easily identifiable and Missoni (1981) is a jewel from the 80s, provided you have a heart and an open nose for flower scents.
The fragrance is composed around a chypre texture (bergamot, rose, jasmine, moss. also some patchouli), but is initially dominated by sweet, heavy floral notes, which lack the penetrance of some white-flower compositions. The fragrance is also too richly endowed with rose, rose geranium and other flowers, so that a rather sweet harmony is created. Resinous and fruity tones also provide a round overall impression, with aldehydes also becoming clearly noticeable after a while. So, unlike in many other fragrances with aldehydes, they don't appear in the top note right away, but have to assert themselves against the sheer superiority of sweet flowers. But the tingling of the aldehydes (often I can best describe them with this impression), as well as the not insignificant mossy and animal tones, create a small disharmony, which makes the fragrance exciting.
What is particularly remarkable, however, is that in the course of its development the fragrance quickly loses its force, becomes less complicated and more wearable and almost develops a green freshness.
In fact, the fragrance undergoes a metamorphosis from "harmony" (flowers, fruit tones), via "dissonance" (animalics, moss) to the meditative "calm" (wood, resin, green hue), which is why the impression of Luca Turin quoted above cannot be dismissed.
A fragrance with a life of its own, with development, with a will of its own: 1981, those were the days my friend.
In this case, too, I am again following a trail that Luca Turin had laid. In his compendium "Perfumes. The A-Z guide" (2008), Missoni (1981) was one of the few fragrances that I haven't been able to get to know yet - and which seem to have virtually disappeared. This can be seen here on Parfumo by the missing comment or statements, both on Parfumo and on EdP. The perfume has just six ratings and just as many owners, while the EdP lacks any proof. Nevertheless, Luca Turin gives the fragrance a detailed review and sums up that "the eerie feeling that the perfume is alive and gradually composes itself, as it were. Most perfumes are rapidly fading photos, but this one is a film" (quote LT).
For years I had been looking for the scent, for several montages I had been searching for it systematically, until I finally came across an affordable miniature with perfume (!). Of course, a fragrance from the 80s, which obviously seems to have disappeared from the market for a while, a phantom of the fragrance culture so to speak, clearly shows its age, and here again I point out that the fragrance fresh from production will have smelled differently. Nevertheless, from my point of view most of the components listed are easily identifiable and Missoni (1981) is a jewel from the 80s, provided you have a heart and an open nose for flower scents.
The fragrance is composed around a chypre texture (bergamot, rose, jasmine, moss. also some patchouli), but is initially dominated by sweet, heavy floral notes, which lack the penetrance of some white-flower compositions. The fragrance is also too richly endowed with rose, rose geranium and other flowers, so that a rather sweet harmony is created. Resinous and fruity tones also provide a round overall impression, with aldehydes also becoming clearly noticeable after a while. So, unlike in many other fragrances with aldehydes, they don't appear in the top note right away, but have to assert themselves against the sheer superiority of sweet flowers. But the tingling of the aldehydes (often I can best describe them with this impression), as well as the not insignificant mossy and animal tones, create a small disharmony, which makes the fragrance exciting.
What is particularly remarkable, however, is that in the course of its development the fragrance quickly loses its force, becomes less complicated and more wearable and almost develops a green freshness.
In fact, the fragrance undergoes a metamorphosis from "harmony" (flowers, fruit tones), via "dissonance" (animalics, moss) to the meditative "calm" (wood, resin, green hue), which is why the impression of Luca Turin quoted above cannot be dismissed.
A fragrance with a life of its own, with development, with a will of its own: 1981, those were the days my friend.
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