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Iris Cendré Naomi Goodsir 2015

7.6 / 10 212 Ratings

A popular perfume by Naomi Goodsir for women and men, released in 2015. The scent is floral-powdery. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Floral

Powdery

Woody

Earthy

Green

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Bergamot

Tangerine

Heart Notes

Iris

Violet

Base Notes

Tobacco

Amber

Cistus

Perfumer

Julien Rasquinet

Ratings

Scent

7.6212 Ratings

Longevity

7.4160 Ratings

Sillage

6.8164 Ratings

Bottle

7.5155 Ratings

Value for money

6.767 Ratings

Submitted by OPomone, last update on 09/19/2025.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Iris Palladium (2015)

Iris Shot

Naïviris

Iris silver mist

Iris Nazarena

Feu Secret

Reviews

12 in-depth fragrance descriptions

07/31/2025

ClaireV
969 Reviews

ClaireV

4

Yet another iris that wants to have me for breakfast

Iris Cendre opens on a friendly citrus note that flitters off almost immediately before pulling back the curtain to reveal an orris butter accord that is almost as pure as in Iris Silver Mist. Pungent and waxy, there is something thrilling in the opacity of the iris here, and one almost feels pressed to the wall with it. Basted in an iris paste, so to speak. The dense forcefulness of the note is emphasized by an almost unpleasantly smoky, sour cedar wood, creating an overall effect of a steel fist inside a cast-iron glove. It is not a soft opening - it is…… unforgiving. It is the Pale Rider on his horse, throwing all sorts of shapes. Why does iris cut me so deep? What did I ever do to it?

I don't dispute the quality (or the amount) of good orris butter or iris in this fragrance. Whether you enjoy it will depend, I suspect, on how evilly rooty you like your irises. If you love Iris Silver Mist or 28 La Pausa, then you will love Iris Cendre. But for me, the best parts of Iris Cendre are the odd little touches here and there that remind me of non-perfumey materials such as that waxy-lanolin slip to the iris in the opening notes, the steel wool fuzziness of the cedar (even though I don't particularly enjoy the smell of it), and the rubbery, weirdly smooth-to-the-touch texture I associate with silly putty and freshly-poured latex paint.

There is also some tobacco and leather in the basenotes, but honestly, I don't experience them as dramatically as other people seem to. To my nose, the tobacco is more of a subtle whiff of cigarette rolling papers that have just been emptied of their tobacco than the leaf itself, and in that respect, it reminds me of the also almost non-existent 'smoky tobacco' that is reputed to be in Mona di Orio's Violette Fumee. It also calls to mind the unlit, slightly ashy tobacco note from Jasmin et Cigarette, which is a fragrance I've come to like more and more over the years.

I suppose I should be commending the house of Naomi Goodsir for their restraint in not overloading the fragrance with smoke notes like they did in Bois d'Ascese. But a touch more smoke would have been welcome here - not only can this butch iris more than stand its own ground against it but the second half of the perfume really needs the supporting ballast. After the blazing iris beginning, Iris Cendre collapses into a faint whisper of a fragrance.

06/14/2025

Reddawks
83 Reviews

Reddawks

4

As above, so below.

As above, so below.
That's the real name of this perfume (no need to check—trust me), and it's entirely fitting: the citrus top notes are charming but forgettable.
The iris takes center stage, leading us somewhere few have dared to go: a cathedral of ash and earth—grandiose, gothic.
The air inside is faintly stale; the walls so pale they seem made of paper.
Far from the usual delicate and airy violet-iris blend: here, it's all about earth, mingled with ash and dust.
And yet, you're unmistakably in a cathedral. Trying to convince yourself otherwise only brings you closer to the truth.
You breathe in the scent of that soil deeply—and realize it might just be the scent of heaven.
As above, so below.

Insta: switzer_scent

08/01/2024

10Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

JBirb
14 Reviews

JBirb

2

Between soil and sky

Iris Cendré is a truly stunning perfume, and my favourite out of a fair number of iris perfumes I have smelled (the legendary Iris Silver Mist has eluded me thus far). Orris can be a terrible tease for my nose: in many scents that contain it, it is the very first thing that jumps out at me, but very soon I can no longer detect it. Other notes take over, or the orris morphs into a generic powder accord. Jorum's Trimerous, Malle's Iris Poudre, and Lebreton's Incarnata are examples where I experience this switch-and-bait. But in Iris Cendré, this most delectable of roots stays central throughout. Which isn't to say she doesn't change. We start with a particularly verdant, vibrant orris. Waxy in texture but not creamy. Carroty, yes, a little, but the impression here is not that of biting into a juicy vegetable, but of harvesting a carrot fresh out of the ground, soil clinging to its thick skin, greenery filling one's hand. Later on, the iris becomes more low-pitched: woodier, chalkier in texture, but still recognisably earthy.
I do not smell much violet, perhaps the greenness of its leaves, but not the candied-floral scent of its flowers. On paper, the citrusy top notes are imperceptible, but my skin brings out a fleeting tangerine. There are some hints of black pepper as well at times. The main partner to the iris is exactly as the name suggests: a wonderful smoke accord, between incense and labdanum, indeed distinctly ashy. It mingles with the iris so perfectly it makes one forget that smoke is not the traditional accompaniment of this note one finds more often alongside citrus or powder. The effect here is neither refreshing nor cosmetic. The scene set by Iris Cendré is distinctly wintery. It takes me back to being a child, when winters were still cold, and quite a few people in my neighbourhood were still heating with coal or wood. Chimneys spewed their smoke skywards, and the cold air would carry its smell through all the streets. That is the atmosphere of Iris Cendré: dark earth replete with sleeping roots, under a grey sky saturated with smoke.

08/10/2025

8Scent

Tealight10
19 Reviews

Tealight10

2

Cool beauty

Iris Cendré is a study in “cold” iris but it has some pretty violet to contrast the iris’s cool melancholy. The violet is perfect here. Sweet but not candied. The iris is carrot-y cold soil, un peu triste, and just achingly beautiful. I file it under “summer goth all in white.”

The opening texture is similar to Iris Cendré’s sibling Nuit de Bakélite—a brittle, vintage, synthetic texture. Translucent, iridescent, pearlescent. It wears with the smooth cool weight and distinctive click of strung pearls.

Similar to the way pearls warm on the skin, the base notes gradually shift the fragrance slowly toward something warmer, grayer, dustier—not coincidentally reminiscent of the incense and ash that characterizes another sibling— Bois d'Ascèse. This ash combined with the iris and the persistently vivid violet creates a gentle, mysterious lingering smoky, sweetness. The tuberous iris becomes weightless, unbound from gravity. So addictive and utterly elegant at every stage of color, texture, and smell.

I have sniffed a dozen other iris fragrances chasing the cool sweetness of Iris Cendré and nothing quite matches it. Iris silver mist comes close but try as I might, I find the clove a constant distraction. I return again and again to Iris Cendré contrite and apologizing for looking afar for the perfection already in my possession.

12/16/2024

Ebichuunee
98 Reviews

Ebichuunee

2

Earthy like ashes

Iris Cendré is all about the earthy side of iris. Instead of the usual green or floral take, it leans into a grey, ashy vibe, probably thanks to the tobacco.

To me, it smells way too much like an ashtray, which makes it hard to enjoy. I can see how it might appeal to someone who’s into smoky, raw scents, but it’s definitely not for me.

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