Cedar
Mandarin orange
Orange
Lime
Fruity notes
Unbuffered Toenail
Parma
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Parma
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4
The Pale Aroma of Unripe Orange
After a few years of waiting (and lingering on my wish list), I recently had the opportunity to test this extremely rare fragrance, which was discontinued in the year of its creation, through a souk shop (many thanks to Moenti!). Since it is derived from my absolute favorite fragrance "Eau de Cologne" or, more precisely, its successor "Eau d‘Orange Verte," I was extremely curious. It was launched by Hermès in 2004, simultaneously with the Concentré d‘Orange Verte, which, unlike the aroma, is still in production. Upon inquiry at Hermès, it is classified as an EdC - I was a bit uncertain about its description as "Eau tonique givree" - which means "refreshing ice water," and its, as a forewarning, very short longevity.
In the product line, there was besides the Eau tonique givree also a shower gel (Marmalade d‘Orange - Douche Exfoliante Reveil / Exfoliating Wake-Up Shower) and a moisturizing lotion (Orange Givree - Gelee Fraicheur Reveil / Freshness Wake-Up Gel).
In the product line, there was besides the Eau tonique givree also a shower gel (Marmalade d‘Orange - Douche Exfoliante Reveil / Exfoliating Wake-Up Shower) and a moisturizing lotion (Orange Givree - Gelee Fraicheur Reveil / Freshness Wake-Up Gel).
Fragrance Development:
It starts, as expected and as its name suggests, orangey. However, this is muted and herb-bitter, as one would expect from a green, unripe orange. It is very fresh, but already with a distinctly bitter tendency. I cannot discern a fruitier, sweeter, and softer mandarin tone or other fruity notes, as indicated in the fragrance pyramid. Gradually, a waxy, slightly floral tone emerges, similar to the crossing of an unscented candle with a pure floral fragrance. It may be attributed to the linden blossom, which, unlike the fragrance pyramid here, is mentioned as an additional component on other platforms (fragrantica.de, perfumemaster.com, perfume.com). This waxy note, which becomes quite dominant during the short fragrance experience, contributes to the unripe impression, with the orange almost disappearing. A cedarwood note is noticeably supportive from the very beginning, but it integrates into the restrained character of the fragrance. It appears slightly spicy and brings a masculine touch. As it progresses, it defines the fragrance along with the green waxiness and leaves behind a bright, almost ethereal woodiness that I really like. It can be compared to the impression of a rather young, partially still green twig.Longevity and Sillage:
As one would expect from a Hermès cologne, the longevity is very limited. On my skin, I never perceive it for more than three hours. The projection is also very restrained and remains close to the skin from the very beginning.Conclusion:
Compared to the indications of the fragrance pyramid and assessments on other sites, I perceive the fragrance as quite pale. While it does have similarities with the original or the Concentré, it is a stripped-down version, as it really only focuses on depicting the pure aroma of an unripe orange. It achieves this very authentically and in the well-known good Hermès quality.Note:
Currently, there is a specimen of the fragrance at a well-known auction house for the proud price of €240 (!) for 100ml. (Update 16.11.2019: After years, it seems to have found a buyer.) Updated on 11/16/2019
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