The Thoroughbreds

Oajan 2013

Ephelide
29.11.2020 - 11:23 AM
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9
Longevity
9
Scent

Oh, yes!

Winter was just around the corner, not to say already halfway in my apartment, my stock of Kilian's "Intoxicated" was coming to an end and actually I just wanted to have another bottling of my favourite coffee-cardamom scent for the next months - but then everything turned out completely different and on Tuesday I stopped, at this point my thanks go to Kloop, a DIN C6 mailing bag with two (!) instead of one perfume sample in my hand. "Oajan, PdM, 8-19" was written in small letters on the handwritten label of the smaller of the two atomizers. Parfums de Marly, aha, so, so, then the label finds its way into my fragrance cabinet. Single-mindedly the cap is taken off and sniffed: Honey, cinnamon, ... and somehow plums? With buzz? I like. Better put the cap back on and research the pyramid of scents. At Parfumo, where else. ;)

There are no plums in here, anywhere. Was I mistaken? Anyway, I like the pyramid of scent. I'm not wearing any perfume on my skin for today, and if it is winter already, the pyramid of scents is not flowery, not fruity and on top of that contains this delicious honey-plum-cinnamon accord, we'll get to the plums later - why not? So off we go with the test.

First of all we have: honey and cinnamon, perhaps a combination of apricot and marzipan far in the background. Sweet, slightly flowery, very discreet. It is possible that this is the osmanthus. I honestly don't know, because I don't have any comparison to other Osmanthus fragrances. Anyway, it smells good. I like everything about the fragrance up to here. Rather promptly I notice the tipsy plum - aka Davana. ALZD can report that Davana oil reminds me of prunes in the fragrance, and sometimes also has alcoholic notes of whiskey, rum or cognac. There we have it. But do not stray and learn something again. From the heart note I first hear (Siamese) benzoin, then labdanum. I like the latter very much. The Benzoe-Labdanum combination worked very well for me already at MFK's Grand Soir. I perceive the benzoin note more strongly than the labdanum. I associate dry warmth (like naked skin) and a strong arm, whereby I leave it to the imagination of the smeller or reader whether this arm is attached to a male or female. For me the arm was male at first. This changed in the course of the tests on the following days, the arm can now equally belong to both - uh, pendant. In this respect I classify "Oajan" (for the time being) as a unisex fragrance. The opening of the base is clearly dominated by the tonka bean. One can like that. For me personally, this part of the fragrance development is too extreme. It gets better as soon as the tonka bean is enclosed by patchouli and then vanilla. Over time, the musk works its way out of the background, emphasizing vanilla and patchouli rather than loudly mixing in the base. The base then lasts quite long. In my impression the tonka bean fades away with time, the morning after I smell only pale impressions mainly of musk and vanilla, patchouli plays along quietly, on my wrist. Pleasant, that.

What remains to be said? The fragrance unites in its pyramid of scents everything I like. I would describe "Oajan" as intense with a tendency to heaviness, whereby turgidity can be counteracted by an economical dosage. Balsamic and sweet, resin-galore, plum, "with (occasional) shot". I wouldn't wear it outside the winter.
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