Paradoxe (Eau de Parfum) by Pierre Cardin

Bottle Design:
Serge Mansau

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Paradoxe Pierre Cardin 1983 Eau de Parfum

8.2 / 10 64 Ratings

A popular perfume by Pierre Cardin for women, released in 1983. The scent is chypreartig-spicy. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Chypre

Spicy

Floral

Leathery

Green

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Bergamot

Lemon

Mandarin orange

Heart Notes

Jasmine

Tuberose

Iris

Ylang-ylang

Hyacinth

Base Notes

Pepper

Amber

Leather

Frankincense Moss

Moss

Musk

Perfumers

Raymond Chaillan, Robert Gonnon

Ratings

Scent

8.264 Ratings

Longevity

7.953 Ratings

Sillage

7.553 Ratings

Bottle

7.652 Ratings

Value for money

8.210 Ratings

Submitted by DonVanVliet · last update on 11/15/2025.

Source-backed & verified

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Reviews

5 in-depth fragrance descriptions

03/16/2021

9Scent 9Longevity 9Sillage

Rossiniopera
38 Reviews

Rossiniopera

Helpful Review 1

Cool on the outside, warm at heart

I guess the paradoxe in this perfume lies in the contrast of the warm, sunny notes of hyacinth and tuberose, and the cool cloud of smoky leather, moss and pepper that surrounds them. Like a pretty summer dress in a floral pattern, worn with a black leather jacket. It struck me as a somewhat unusual combination at first, but it's a very good perfume, suitable for spring or early autumn, when it seems to reflect the weather: warm sunshine and cool air.

The only minus for me is that the smoky leather cloud tends to outgrow the flowers and suffocate them. This usually happens a few hours after application, and can sometimes make me a little uncomfortable. The leather becomes too much, too dry. If it was the other way around, if the floral notes were allowed to really glow in all their sweet glory, with just a hint of the peppery leather underneath, it would be absolutely perfect.

06/19/2024

Krmarich
229 Reviews

Krmarich

lost beauty

I was shopping my collection and came across Paradox de Cardin. What a forgotten beauty! Initially, I was frightened off by the notes-leather and tuberose can challenge my skin. This time it is flawlessly blended into a very discreet and intelligent masterwork of often overlooked French couture.

The floral notes at first are bold and after a few minutes settle back into this wonderful leather chypre that can be worn by anyone, really. Pierre Cardin was a gender bender before it was fashionable and Paradox is very evident of this. 1983 was the beginning of a flood fragrance from both sides of the Atlantic and the competition was ferocious. Paradox was basically lost in a market that everyone was tossing their hat in. Pierre Cardin was famous for its ubiquitous men's classic in the USA with commercial jingles. I wasn't aware of Paradox in stores ever.

Paradox is a simple, yet no less complex formula. After a brief citrus opening the florals immediately rush in. I get mostly hyacinth, ylang ylang, iris and jasmine. This is not a floral composition. They settle fairly quickly and then oakmoss, vetiver and patcholi lend a green character that carry into the base. There is a rich amber note that is prominent through the entire composition. The after a few hours, the smoky leather sits on sultry woody base that lasts for hours.

It is a casual old school classic that you wont find in todays market. As the weather cools down, I find myself reaching for this more often. The bottle feels great in my hands. Pierre Cardin paid attention to bottle design and this one reflects the modern mid century style. Its an honor to have this forgotten classic in my collection!

03/28/2021

9Scent 10Longevity 6Sillage

Ergoproxy
1130 Reviews

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Ergoproxy

Top Review 48

Contradiction? That Suits Me!

Each of us uses fragrances for various reasons.

Well, the main reason is probably the simplest one, namely to smell pleasant for oneself and the surroundings. But of course, there are many other motivations to wear a fragrance. Whether it's to express or influence one's mood, to complement one's wardrobe, or even to facilitate dating. The latter reason has never played a role for me in choosing a fragrance, and I still consider the idea that a perfume can set lingerie in motion to be an urban myth.

Sometimes I like to choose a fragrance as an olfactory contradiction to my clothing. For a rather rugged outfit, I enjoy wearing a noble or lush floral scent. For classic attire, something sensual or a loud niche hit.

Paradoxe will likely play a similar role in my fragrance life.

Launched in 1983, this scent belongs to the Chypre family in my opinion, but it is not as soapy and green as purists often want it to be.

The opening is not typically laden with aldehydes, but rather dry and spicy. I don't smell a citrus note as such.

The floral bouquet in the heart is dominated by hyacinth. This note can sometimes be tricky for me, but here the spicy, sultry note has been well softened. Jasmine and tuberose remain in the background.

The base is defined by a trinity of moss, leather, and subtle incense.

Paradoxe is less loud than one would expect from a fragrance of the 80s. I remember the scent being stronger back then. The longevity is, in my opinion, good. I can clearly but not overwhelmingly perceive the scent on my skin for 12 hours.

Anyone who cannot relate to vintage fragrances should steer clear of Paradoxe, otherwise, it’s once again Grandma-Alarm in the statement department.

While the fragrance was originally designed for women, it now carries the designation of Unisex, like most scents of this kind today. But a man has to dare to smell contradictory.

Updated on 04/24/2024

06/03/2021

8.5Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Serenissima
1234 Reviews

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Serenissima

Top Review 21

Off to Maxim's I go...

There, Count Danilo from Franz Lehár's operetta "The Merry Widow" spent his nights.
Who doesn’t remember Johannes Heesters, as he cheerfully tossed his white theater scarf, put on his top hat, and left the stage with a wink, ready for adventure?
First, he went behind it; whether he really went to "Maxim's" later is not known.

On April 7, 1883, the former waiter Maxim Gaillard opened a restaurant that he named after himself. Initially, its clientele consisted mainly of the cab drivers from the neighborhood.
It was only with the Belle Époque that this would change significantly.
Those who went to Paris's "Maxim's" left their wives at home; for there, the most famous grisettes (see "The Merry Widow") awaited the adventurous men, and soon one could also enjoy excellent dining there.
After World War II, "Maxim's" experienced a revival: anyone who was anyone could be found there; the guest list surely resembles a "Who's Who" of the celebrity/glamour world of that time.
Even though the three "Michelin stars" have since been lost, a visit to the museum established by Pierre Cardin is still just as interesting as the noteworthy Art Nouveau decor of the restaurant, which has been classified as a "Monument historique".

What, you may ask, is she rambling on about again?
Who cares about this establishment; after all, this is about perfumes.
Exactly!
For in 1981, Pierre Cardin, known as a couturier who never copied but always forged his own path, bought "Maxim's".
(Ah, what a "rustle in the forest" there was back then!)
Under this name, the enterprising man sold various gourmet items.
I still remember the champagne truffles in the tasteful packaging with the name "Maxim's," which sounded a bit risqué to me at the time. - Yes, that was a long time ago!
The champagne of the same name was also popular: how our working students rejoiced when they received a bottle of "Maxim's" champagne from the boss on their birthdays or at Christmas!
In this way, Pierre Cardin managed to make his name widely known and to stand on more than one leg.

Always more innovative than others, anticipating and capitalizing on the spirit of the times, Pierre Cardin was the first to make a mark in both ready-to-wear and haute couture women's fashion.
As early as 1958, he created a unisex clothing line, and in the 1960s, he was part of the avant-garde along with Courrèges.

After his first Eau de Parfum "Choc" (1957: Even the name sets itself apart from the cloistered world of couture!), he launched "Paradoxe," also as an Eau de Parfum, in 1983 - one hundred years after the initial opening of Paris's "Maxim's".
This man knew his craft and mastered the art of riding the right wave at the right time.

Although Pierre Cardin was a creative mind and never copied in fashion, with "Paradoxe," he did follow the successful Chypre fragrance paths.
Thus, the fragrance pyramid shows the typical progression of a classic Chypre, which has been embellished and adapted: "Paradoxe" certainly has a pronounced strong character!

The top note is a stylish fresh combination of citrus notes gathered around bergamot; mandarin and lemon create a cheerful first impression.
Shifting more towards the iris and forgoing the classic rose, "Paradoxe" quickly transforms into a powdery direction.
The two intensely fragrant white flowers, tuberose and jasmine, get their share from the powder puff, and hyacinth and ylang-ylang have to duck a little.
The heart of "Paradoxe" is not as floral and radiant as one might expect.
Rather, it already hints at the base with brown, green, and smoky nuances; an interesting transition!
The already strong moss is supported by leather and spicy pepper:
Immediately, "Paradoxe" becomes darker, deeper, and less cuddly; some barbs can already be sensed.
Even though musk and amber draw a light curtain over this fragrance power, thus wanting to maintain the soft-feminine character of the previous fragrance progression: "Paradoxe" does not want to swim with the elegant Chypre stream!
It aims to give confident women an additional fragrance personality that attracts attention!
To this end, generous use of incense is made:
The woman of the eighties was strong and self-assured - and she should show it!

Perhaps "Paradoxe" was also intended as a counterpart to the overflowing colors and fabrics of fashion in those years.
I only recall the magnificent garments in "Dynasty" and similar cult series.
The woman so elaborately "packaged" there showed strength, and a fragrance that underscored this was just right!

The selected and very skillfully dosed fragrance notes give "Paradoxe" a corresponding sillage and longevity.
A business fragrance that was quite fitting for the time: I can hardly remember any offices where Chypre fragrances were not the most prominent "employees".

In any case, I will gladly use the fragrance sample left to me by Gelis (even if a bit of "iris powder" has now gotten into my nose and mouth while spraying, making me cough and sneeze!).
I thank her for that.

And between us:
A night at "Maxim's" could still be well endured today in the company of this fragrance creation, without needing to touch up - unless for pleasure!

Updated on 06/03/2021

04/18/2021

9.5Scent 9Longevity 8Sillage

Minigolf
2568 Reviews

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Minigolf

Top Review 14

Pierre Cardin and his Paradoxical Mystery

Pierre Cardin was a fashion designer, a couturier, a "citizen of the world," and created quite a bit of cheeky as well as elegant fashion. Since Coco Chanel, fragrances have been part of the "good tone" in the fashion world, and he also had his own ideas about perfumes.
Almost all the fragrances released under Cardin have "chypre accents" as a theme. Confident, profound, and somewhat rebellious. Paradoxe also embodies this intention. It aims not to be timid, nor to be overwhelming, but to convince. With profound diversity between earthy-herbaceous and sweet-floral. Wild and tame, defiant and charmingly friendly. The narrow path from one to the other is not always strictly adhered to; rather, it presents a "both-and" that makes the fragrance incredibly attractive.
What would a chypre fragrance be without moss? What would a floral fragrance be without specific blossoms? And what would a confident fragrance be without refined ingredients? This Paradoxe fulfills many desires here.
Jasmine and tuberose for a feminine touch, pepper for a refined spiciness, amber for warmth and depth, moss for true chypre, and "leather" to roughen up the "delicate components," which gives the fragrance a slightly "defiant" character.
The "power" of this Eau de Parfum and its mystique lie in the distribution of the ingredients and the TIMING of their appearance. There is no fixed pattern here. They come and go unexpectedly, intensifying and softening in a loose sequence, but never completely "lost." They are present when you least expect them. Indeed, "paradoxical"! And a little mystery.

Statements

25 short views on the fragrance

Eggi37

2 years ago

8Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Leather chypre of the 80s
Strictly herbal & fresh-soapy flowers
Great, smoky & peppery leather base
Dark green-mossy embellishment
Amber warms gently

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Ergoproxy

1 year ago

9Scent 10Longevity 6Sillage

A great, very spicy chypre with a clear vintage appeal. Less soapy, spicy floral with distinct hyacinth, soft,...

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Axiomatic

2 years ago

10Scent 10Longevity 8Sillage

Starts surprisingly herbal-spicy, glides into a beautiful hyacinth.
Moss and especially leather score points.
Ryan Paris - Dolce Vita
Awesome *

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SchatzSucher

4 years ago

9Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Citrusy spicy opening, unsweetened flowers in the middle, and a cool mossy base with a subtle leathery tone and fine incense note. Really great!

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Verbena

4 years ago

9Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Leather is like that. Gets dirty. With blossoms, moss, and earthy muck. Soap lathers. For nothing. The Cypriots dance tirelessly. It has to be. Great!

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