Phtaloblue 2020

GymBuddy
12.11.2020 - 02:15 PM
5
Very helpful Review
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10
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
7
Scent

The wide sea before your eyes

Oh no, finally I had found a perfumer who created such anachronistic - because completely natural in the best sense of the word non-synthetic - fragrances like "Au cœr du desert", "Attar" or "L'Oud" - the most natural oud-verter known to me, which smells most naturally like eaglewood. And then: Do I get a bottling of "L' Air des Alpes Suisses" which seemed to be Andy's playground project, also once had an Iso-E-Super fragrance in its repertoire and now with Phtaloblue a super-synthetic Marine Pyridine (?) or Maritima (IFF) - representative. After 3 hours the former really only smells like iso-E-super on my skin, the latter still smells like the very synthetic version of sea salt or slight nuances of sea and iodine after one day. Who knows "Vanilla Vibes" from "Juliette has a gun": Phtaloblue and Vanilla Vibes seem to rely on the same synthetic sea salt representative.
After all the natural-smelling representatives that I know from Andy - and each of which I consider to be masterpieces and references - these are two new fragrances for me that don't want to fit the brand at all. Up to now, Andy Tauer has been an institution for me where I could buy blindly and always knew not to have any exuberant synthetics in the fragrance. It's a great pity for me that it has taken this development.

But let's come to Phtaloblue - after all, it is a Tauer - and, except for the synthetic note, still smells like perfumery.
The fragrance starts with a fennel with only a minimal citrus note, which seems to float above salty sea air. The association of a hot summer's day over a cliffy Mediterranean coast, where a constant diffusion of ethereal, spicy herbaceous aromas meets the salt in the air, is perfectly supported by the faint sweetness of a lavender that remains very much in the background.
In the course of time I take a little bit of Neroli - but increasingly the dominance of the above described sea salt scent becomes noticeable. After all, it provides a very long perceptibility of the scent even after one day. The fragrance ends on my skin with a coumarin/lightly woodruff sweet tonka bean and of course still the sea salt theme.
All in all I find the fragrance interesting, because fennel and herbaceous/spicy with sea salt is quite original - but the synthetic note becomes too much for me over the course of the fragrance.
Please, please Andy - the next one again without Iso-E and all the other artificial ones. A fragrance with natural ambergris would be on my wish list.
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