GymBuddy

Attar is quite special even for Tauer fans - both in terms of size, concentration and the fragrant oils dissolved in oil instead of alcohol. Smellwise Attar is not a classic Oriental for me and is therefore not in line with L' Air du Désert and Au cœr du Désert: No existing sweetness, nothing superficially flattering and certainly not a crowdpleaser but still beautiful for me.
A classic fragrance course with a division into heart to base notes cannot be identified. Instead, different scent images are constantly changing and pushing themselves into the limelight - the most important ones for me are:
1. At least before Corona I travelled through India 1-2 times a year. In front of some Hindu cult temples (Palani for example) camphor dissolved in paraffin is burned and the scent often combines with the oily remains of the sacrificial offerings on stone. Probably my association with oil camphor is rather due to the cistus - the matching pictures of archaic temples with corresponding smells are at least able to trigger it in me.
2. An old cold wooden hut in winter. One enters the room and takes facets of resin, decaying wood, something slightly waxy and dusty. Natural oud is not listed separately in the fragrance - but I would suggest at least one oud addition
3. The jasmine. However, it is so weakly woven in that you can only guess at it from time to time. Not a flowery, playful, feminine jasmine, as you might get in Grasse, but rather a spicier, 'oriental' jasmine variant
It should be clear that Attar is not a flattering everyday scent - at least I'm quite taken with Attar and its very natural fragrance components, although I miss the sweetness in the fragrance. From time to time it comes to me during the day - then it stays for 1-2 days without any problems. On clothes it stays for weeks. Art/Meditation scent.

Oh no, finally I had found a perfumer who created such anachronistic - because completely natural in the best sense of the word non-synthetic - fragrances like "Au cœr du desert", "Attar" or "L'Oud" - the most natural oud-verter known to me, which smells most naturally like eaglewood. And then: Do I get a bottling of "L' Air des Alpes Suisses" which seemed to be Andy's playground project, also once had an Iso-E-Super fragrance in its repertoire and now with Phtaloblue a super-synthetic Marine Pyridine (?) or Maritima (IFF) - representative. After 3 hours the former really only smells like iso-E-super on my skin, the latter still smells like the very synthetic version of sea salt or slight nuances of sea and iodine after one day. Who knows "Vanilla Vibes" from "Juliette has a gun": Phtaloblue and Vanilla Vibes seem to rely on the same synthetic sea salt representative.
After all the natural-smelling representatives that I know from Andy - and each of which I consider to be masterpieces and references - these are two new fragrances for me that don't want to fit the brand at all. Up to now, Andy Tauer has been an institution for me where I could buy blindly and always knew not to have any exuberant synthetics in the fragrance. It's a great pity for me that it has taken this development.

But let's come to Phtaloblue - after all, it is a Tauer - and, except for the synthetic note, still smells like perfumery.
The fragrance starts with a fennel with only a minimal citrus note, which seems to float above salty sea air. The association of a hot summer's day over a cliffy Mediterranean coast, where a constant diffusion of ethereal, spicy herbaceous aromas meets the salt in the air, is perfectly supported by the faint sweetness of a lavender that remains very much in the background.
In the course of time I take a little bit of Neroli - but increasingly the dominance of the above described sea salt scent becomes noticeable. After all, it provides a very long perceptibility of the scent even after one day. The fragrance ends on my skin with a coumarin/lightly woodruff sweet tonka bean and of course still the sea salt theme.
All in all I find the fragrance interesting, because fennel and herbaceous/spicy with sea salt is quite original - but the synthetic note becomes too much for me over the course of the fragrance.
Please, please Andy - the next one again without Iso-E and all the other artificial ones. A fragrance with natural ambergris would be on my wish list.

Since Homme from the same house is now one of my favourite cheapys, and the purchase inhibition threshold at Une Histoire d' Homme Irréstible invites to experiment due to prices around 20€, was ordered.
You get exactly what is promised to you in the fragrance pyramid. But this in a flacon, as it could be on the grab table at KIK.
The fragrance starts with a somewhat old-fashioned cologne note, which conveys a synthetic rather than a natural feel and is absolutely room-filling.
Advertising pictures of after-shave rubbing into the hands of advanced-aged gentlemen, who rub it luxuriantly on their faces, creep into my memory.
The prelude with the fig leaf and bergamot is unfortunately not at all as fine as in Un Jardin en Méditeranée by Hermès, the only fig leaf scent I know, but rather spicy, slightly medicinal, very loud and synthetic.
After about 20 minutes the fragrance becomes gently woody but still with a noticeable citrus note. With the promised sand wood of the fragrance pyramid, one could have liked to use something of higher quality. Many cheap sandalwood replicas smell like woodruff like coumarin to me - unfortunately this one does too. Until the basic tone begins, I even have to think twice about woodruff fizz.
After about an hour, however, then pure cedar and I have to think of the small incense cones, which are often lit in incense men at Christmas. This basic tone remains on the skin for hours - there are days when I really like this cedar note. If you know Eau de Cade by L'Occitane - the base notes have a lot of similarities in their appearance.
For the price called, I find the fragrance to be perfectly acceptable - and even significantly better than the mainstream that is currently on sale. But you should rather be a few years older for the fragrance...

My first Amouage from the Renaissance Collection. Freely translated from the French as "rebirth", it is emphasized here once again that one likes to reinvent oneself regularly - Amouage has been following quite new, experimental scent paths for some time now.
Enclave also has little confusion with other fragrances and starts with a scent chord that I have never noticed before:
Spearmint gum, slightly cinnamon-sweetened with the clear leathery scent of the rough inside of a suede wallet. I have this leather association with the scent component called Saffiano, which I can perceive from the first moment, which becomes stronger and stronger as the day progresses and remains clearly perceptible on the skin even after a day.
Mint scents remain difficult for me. Either you are at flight level sauna infusion or it goes towards sweet After Eight or you have something pungent against the cold in your nose. Actually, with "Geranium pour Monsieur" from Malle I only know one mint scent so far, which I really appreciate, and this mainly because the natural herbaceousness gives an unbelievable purity and fresh clarity. Enclave does not have this. The mint in Enclave initially conveys freshness and coolness but quickly becomes creamy and sweetish
Natural-looking scented oils cannot have been the goal with Enclave. Be it mint, leather, rose or amber - all fragrances are rather used as an abstraction of themselves and rather create an association with the respective desired scent.
In the course of the fragrance the sweet spearmint then makes room for a potpourri rose. This smells unfamiliar again, because mint with rose is not something I know as a fragrance chord. When mint weakens and the rose and leather are the protagonists, you can carry a fragrance with you for about 2 hours that reminds you of "Myth / Amouage", but compared to the original, it is creamy, milky and not so brute.
At some point only the sweetness of a chewed chewing gum with some suede on the skin remains.
Unfortunately I cannot understand the classification "sweet-woody" on Parfumo. Woody, I find Enclave at no time "fresh-sweet-leathery" I would find more suitable.
Is that a big throw from Amouage now? The above mentioned abstraction of the individual scent components to something new can be considered positively as art or as a bad cobbling together of new synthetic laboratory developments, which come from the laboratories of e.g. IFF.
I'm leaning towards something in between. Getting to know the unknown scent chords was exciting and the mint fades out even just before the moment when it becomes annoying, but I wasn't captivated by the scent - it was too synthetic in its components. The fragrance may not even pretend to be natural - that is the concept here. Very creative and artistic but somehow not mine. H/S are in the upper third of the Amouage range. Only Amouage will know why this minty scent friend doesn't come in the milky green bottle from Meander - for me, it would have fitted the fragrance much better.
For the future, I would like Amouage to give me a musky scent. With the creativity of the house, I would like to be surprised here.

How could one explain the light to someone who has never felt the sun? I'd probably give him the smell of Sunshine from Amouage
The fragrance radiates an overabundant Apollonian light at all times and as a hedonist knows only lust and joy.
Sunshine is the driver of Apollo's sun car - and next to him there is a free seat, you can jump on and join him on his journey...

So pompous words, so good. I probably can't hide the fact that I'm an Amouage fanboy, nor that my signature fragrance deserves less pompous words.

In the Amouage universe, the fragrance is quite unique: no incense, no leather, no oud, no animalism - wouldn't suit a pure hedonist either.
And despite the fact that classic fragrance antagonists are missing: I never get bored of Sunshine. Fortunately, it is also far away from the currently banal mainstream synthetic sweethearts like everything by Paco Rabanne.

As with all the fragrances from Amouage that I know, the scent develops continuously by presenting the scent actors one after the other - like in a play - and they have their "special moment" in the process.

The opening's gonna be a blast: Langnese-capri ice cream (orange outside, vanilla inside) with an additional orange sweetness contrasted by lavender. In a way, a beach feeling in Provence with an orange-vanilla ice cream in your hand. The top note can be quite addictive I find ...

Even after that the fragrance does not remain a silent treader. The lavender of the top note announces the herbal heart note that follows. After about an hour I can perceive the Muscat Sage as a slightly soapy note - and in this development it often reminds me of the Vintage Kouros (but of course only the Muscat Sage, not all the rest). Unfortunately, I could not yet perceive juniper berry from the mentioned fragrance pyramid.
The orange-vanilla theme of the opening is still present in the heart note, but with more herbs.

Until then Sunshine alone would be worth enough - but: the best is yet to come. The drydown of vanilla, cedar wood and tonka and their interplay is the sexiest scent known to me - even though it does without animalism a la musk, civet or the like. It lasts for days if you like and ends with a slightly vanilla-sweetened cedar

Is that a winter or summer scent now? Difficult. For me it is an evergreen - only with an adjusted dosage, of course. For the Apollonian companion it is also true here that sunshine always works, but if you take too much of it, you can get burned very quickly.

Definitv: you have to try it once and don't miss a drydown after 3 hours.