Chen Xi - First Light of Dawn by Trance Essence
Bottle Design:
Kavi Ahuja Moltz
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Chen Xi - First Light of Dawn 2022

7.8 / 10 40 Ratings
A popular limited perfume by Trance Essence for women and men, released in 2022. The scent is smoky-woody. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Smoky
Woody
Spicy
Fruity
Sweet

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
FrankincenseFrankincense Black cherryBlack cherry FirFir Nocturnal ConcreteNocturnal Concrete
Heart Notes Heart Notes
CocoaCocoa Orris absoluteOrris absolute JasmineJasmine JubtroflexJubtroflex
Base Notes Base Notes
FireFire MuskMusk VanillaVanilla

Perfumer

Videos
Ratings
Scent
7.840 Ratings
Longevity
7.632 Ratings
Sillage
7.130 Ratings
Bottle
7.827 Ratings
Value for money
6.914 Ratings
Submitted by Cheshirecat, last update on 07/06/2025.
Interesting Facts
This fragrance was created in partnership with British singer-songwriter Joe Talbot, lead vocalist of the rock band Idles.

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What the fragrance is similar to

Reviews

3 in-depth fragrance descriptions
7.5
Scent
DogiCoco

637 Reviews
DogiCoco
DogiCoco
1  
Autumnal cocoa, deep in the woods
A small disclaimer:
D.S. & Durga might be a house that's just not made for me, and that's okay. Their scents and the whole brand feel a bit too quirky and hipsterish for me, they don't the glam/sexy/feminine/fun/cozy vibes that I want from a perfume. Some of their releases, like this one, still sound interesting enough to try, but I doubt I'll ever find a 10/10 for me in a D.S. & Durga fragrance.

It's an interesting take on the trendy cherry note, that's for sure. I actually only noticed the cherry note when I tried this for the third time, it's quite subtle and mostly comes out in the opening. The trick with this is that you have to use it very sparingly to get all the notes, otherwise the smoke and woods overpower the quiter nuances.
The cocoa is not as shy as the cherry. It's dark and not particularly sweet, more like baking cocoa than a finished cake. Or maybe a dry, low sugar chocolate cake. Imagine eating that next to a bonfire in a conifer forest, damp earth around you, and you're pretty close to what this smells like. Don't hope for a realistic black forest cake, or you will be disappointed.

I like this as a conceptual scent. It would really fit the mood in autumn, not when you need something comforting to escape the cold November rain, but when you really want to lean into it. I can't imagine that I would want to smell like this myself though, except maybe for Halloween. I'd recommend it to people who like dark, smokey, witchy, nature-inspired fragrances.
0 Comments
8
Pricing
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Bmblbee

11 Reviews
Bmblbee
Bmblbee
1  
unusual gourmand for someone who doesn't like cherry desserts
Smelled this in person at one of their shops this summer and kept coming back to it. Unfortunately they did not offer sample vials of this so I could not test it on my skin long-term. So I impulsively got the whole bottle (I swear this is not a common occurrence). This is my first "gourmand" purchase. I should start by saying I haven't found a good slice of Black Forest Cake anywhere; the cherry filling is too fake and sugary. I don't like cherry pie or other pastries. Only fresh cherries are ok, or sour cherry preserves such as you can find in Middle Eastern grocery markets.

Starts off cherry cola with a tiny bit of pine needles and sap. Then comes incense smoke, like a Buddhist temple. Hint of chocolate, dry, balanced by rich earth. On a hot day the middle can grow unbearably sweet, it puts me on edge a little wondering if it will reach that point. Being inside a temple on a hot day can get pretty stifling too unless the entrances are architectural and oversized (not common here in the US sadly). The end is woody, campfire smoke, a little bit creamy. My partner has mixed feelings on it-- some days he doesn't like it, other days he is drawn in by how the dirt and soil aspect tempers the fruity sweetness. I am waiting to try this in cooler weather as I think it will really shine then.
0 Comments
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
ChicoChino

6 Reviews
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ChicoChino
ChicoChino
Helpful Review 24  
The best way to scare a Tory is to read and get rich ..
This line comes from the song "Mother" by the British post-punk band Idles.
What does this have to do with Gateau Blackout? Well, quite a lot.

But let's start from the beginning: D.S. & Durga are from New York.
More precisely from Brooklyn. In other words, where everything that's "cool" right now comes from.
Mr. Moltz is self-taught, not a trained perfumer, and his wife is actually an architect.
And yet their plan to create their own fragrances (juices) has become a success story.

Another success story is the rise of the band Idles from Bristol in England.
This band is not really allowed to be successful, at least musically they are very resistant to it. Some of it is even reminiscent of the "Genial Dilettanten", because nobody here really masters their instrument. Or at least they don't show it. Nevertheless, the harsh pieces including professional alcoholic vocals have not managed to avoid success.

This is where the first parallel arises: Because Moltz is also a musician himself - a guitarist, of course. There is a playlist on Spotify for almost all fragrances (also known as fumes). Will Idles also be on there? Maybe. But I haven't checked. But what does all this have to do with Gateau Blackout? Well ...

Mister Moltz went on a "Perfume Quest" in a YouTube format. The task was to recreate a story he was told in olfactory terms. And his first guest - or rather client - was: Joe Talbot - singer of the band "Idles". So here the circle closes. Without giving too much away: it's about drugs, emotions and a long detour in the wintry Black Forest - and, of course, a Black Forest gateau. All of these ingredients can also be found in the fragrance, as well as the typical D.S. & Durga DNA ...

But what does Gateau Blackout smell like? Like a cake? Like a sticky, sweet gourmand? Of course not ... because that's not what Moltz puts in the bag or on the plate. Instead, there is a lot of fir, fire, incense and a creamy iris. The actual "gâteau" is then grouped around all these notes: a little bitter cocoa, a subtle cherry (neither sweet nor synthetic), fine vanilla and a little musk - the sweat of friendship.

If you want to know the whole story and where the "blackout" in "Gateau Blackout" comes from, watch the corresponding video on YouTube. I can only say that I really like this excursion into the wintry Black Forest - even if the eponymous cake tends to stay in the background. No wonder, Moltz simply likes the natural scents more. But that's not to say that it's not there. There is a hint of gourmand in the air, but it is repeatedly overshadowed by the smoke from the fire until the snow smothers the last embers and peace returns. But it takes time, because the fragrance lasts a really long time (especially by D.S. & Durga standards).

In short: a gourmand fragrance for those who don't really like gourmand fragrances.
10 Comments

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