L'odeur 77-05 Yohji Yamamoto 2022

Purchased at the Yamamoto store in Shibuya, 'L'Odeur 77-05' always reminds me of my trip to this fascinating country, where the fusion of Western living standards and Far Eastern lifestyle creates a very special culture.

The fragrance reflects this tension in a certain way and is part of a so far unfortunately only in Japan published, limited edition of five Eau de Colognes. These can usually be purchased - there was a short-lived exception - only in sets and exclusively in 15ml travelsize flacons. According to the brand, they are designed for spontaneous, mood-driven scenting in between.

By far, I like the fifth fragrance of this series best. Which is because he meets exactly my fragrance preferences. He is namely a clean citrus aroma. More precisely, a citrus vetiver fragrance, which, however, very strongly emphasizes the citrus side. In this ratio, it reminds me most of Zara's 'Vetiver Pamplemousse', but its citrus note is much brighter and more pointed. In this respect, one can almost speak of a pure citrus fragrance at the Yamamoto, but one with pleasing independence, as will hopefully become clear in a moment.

**Scent progression:**
'L'Odeur 77-05' starts with a very concise citrus note, which I would describe as bitter-sweet, juicy lemon. Almost candy-like and "tasting" like yellow Nimm2s. It reminds me in its potency of the lemon note in Yves Saint Laurent's 'pour Homme Haute Concentration' version from 1983. An incredibly rich, fleshy fruit. I attribute the high density - you can definitely call it a good ridge of 'popiness' - to the use of supporting fully synthetic ingredients, in addition to a generally high dosage, which give the note a long and strong presence that extends deep into the base. It is the clear scent-determining factor. It is joined almost immediately by a delicate, leafy facet. A shy, very clean vetiver that shapes the slightly green characteristic of the fragrance. In the middle section, the scent clears up a bit with the use of a minimally watery gingernote that is also bitterly oriented, making it a little more open and sharp before deep in the drydown, when the citrus note slowly fades, the vetiver can still reveal its gently grassy-woody nuances. There is nothing earthy or smoky about it, but on the contrary - supported by a very restrained musk - it still develops soapy accents. In this respect, the olfactory image of a citrus-aromatic clean fragrance stands at the end. Light green laid out.

**Effect:**
'L'Odeur 77-05' is like 'Vetiver Pamplemousse' a casual fragrance with "everyday elegance". From the ingredients slightly above the usual designer standard and giving itself modern by the use of the fully synthetic - but never pressing - ingredients that I can not specify. Unadorned and unexcited. Which suits the Japanese way of life. As does its well-matched contrast of bitter, sweet and spicy, which makes it so special. In the citrus note by the synthetic substructure, however, unusually present. This makes it, in my view, also excellent for the international market and I hope that the line will be released here at some point.

**Durability and Sillage:**
As indicated above, the fragrance lasts surprisingly long for an eau de cologne concentration. On my skin it is well perceptible about five hours and beyond that even more hours with a quiet presence. The radiation moves only in the first hour slightly above skin level. Sillage has the fragrance as good as none. Here he behaves quite in the tradition of an Eau de Colognes.

**Conclusion:**
'L'Odeur 77-05' is a clean, citrusy fragrance with delicate vetiver spice, which has a pleasing independence in its rich, bittersweet lemon characteristics. Especially lovers* pure, slightly green colored, citrus fragrances should come here at their expense.

**To the L'Odeur series:**
The rest are also fragrances that do not reinvent the wheel, however - despite partially interesting sounding fragrance notes - in contrast to the fifth hardly make any effort to try something unusual. They are all rather light and trigger associations with familiar things for me. 'L'Odeur 77-01' is a restrained shower gel-fresh scent on generic dry wood. 'L'Odeur 77-02' features a slight Aventus vibe. 'L'Odeur 77-03' seems pale light citrusy and 'L'Odeur 77-04' doesn't seem quite coherent in its combination of light spice and floral. However, these impressions are based, I must restrictively say, exclusively on fragrance strip experiences. Only the reviewed fragrance I own and wear.