With this review, I would like to compare the new Francesca Bianchi fragrance
Orris Soyeux with the originally released "Cuir Soyeux | Francesca Bianchi," which was exclusively launched for the Perfumelounge in strict limitation. A beautiful scent profile did not directly emerge during today's test, so I will limit myself to a factual description as far as possible. The new fragrance has been released as part of a series under the Annindriya label, which features several fragrances from different perfumers. However, I have not yet researched this extensively.
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Since I had the great luck that a dear friend lent me the Cuir Soyeux some time ago, I can provide a direct comparison and a first impression. Both fragrances have a floral-spicy, powdery, and soft-leathery progression.
Pragmatically speaking, the following changes have been made based on the listed notes: new additions include aldehydes, bergamot, patchouli, and ambroxan - which has actually become a disqualifying factor for me. However, here it does not overpower the scent but rather keeps it more awake and zesty together with the aldehydes and bergamot. Additionally, notes have been exchanged: iris for iris root and heliotrope for heliotropin. The new fragrance feels a bit lighter here, and the typical Bianchi iris butter note does not seem as dense.
Overall, there is a clear resemblance to the original fragrance - the Cuir Soyeux develops a bit softer, silkier, and spicier on me, while the leather note seems very similar; it recedes into the background in the Orris Soyeux, which instead takes on a very slight earthy undertone from the patchouli, giving it a classic-elegant touch. On a cotton ball, the Orris Soyeux smells a bit sharper, likely due to the synthetics used.
In my area, it is very warm today and somewhat oppressive (a weather condition I often find uncomfortable, and during which I tolerate only a few fragrances well). I experience both scents as very floral - I attribute this to the magnolia, although I am not sure I know exactly how magnolia actually smells in perfumes. Over time, both become a bit more powdery, but in the sense of a floral-spicy powderiness, without becoming stuffy. Normally, I prefer the Cuir Soyeux more in autumn, as the spicy and leathery notes become more pronounced then.
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First conclusion: Since the Cuir Soyeux is no longer produced, I believe this presents an interesting alternative that I consider worth testing. However, one should generally be open to the synthetics contained within. I find them well integrated. The fragrances have a great similarity, but they will certainly develop with very different focuses depending on skin chemistry. Like many of the "early" Bianchis, both also remind me a bit of perfumes from "back then," rather dense, concentrated, drops behind the ear. A strongly pronounced animalic note is not present; perhaps softly through the daffodil in the Cuir Soyeux, but certainly not overwhelming. The Orris Soyeux strikes me as a bit more modern. As is typical for Francesca Bianchi, both fragrances are quite potent, so I recommend a sparing application. Due to the weather, I cannot currently provide a reliable statement on longevity, but I also expect above-average endurance.
I have a feeling that this review may be incomplete due to the weather and my current state of mind, and I will consider adding to it at a later time.
With heartfelt thanks to Lacrimula.
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Additions:
1) The longevity is already quite strong - therefore, I personally tend to rate it between 7.5 and 8, as I can imagine that the scent might quickly become too much for me.
Patchouli
Aldehydes
Orris root
Bergamot
Labdanum
Leathery notes
Ambroxan
Magnolia
Musk
Narcissus
Vanilla
krdent
Grimdeux
Ch03np
Axiomatic
ElAttarine
Brida
FrauKirsche
Yatagan
Mourant
PET
