Aldehydes
Orris root
Patchouli
Bergamot
Labdanum
Leathery notes
Ambroxan
Magnolia
Musk
Narcissus
Vanilla
09/05/2024
UntermWert
39 Reviews
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Freshly awakened and de-spiced - Cuir Soyeux goes Aldehydes
With this review, I would like to compare the new Francesca Bianchi fragrance Orris Soyeux and the Cuir Soyeux, which was originally released exclusively for Perfumelounge as a strictly limited edition. A beautiful fragrance picture did not emerge directly during today's test, so I will limit myself to a factual description as far as I can. The new fragrance has been released as part of a series under the Annindriya label, which includes several fragrances by different perfumers. However, I have not yet researched this in detail.
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As I was very lucky that a dear perfumer gave me Cuir Soyeux some time ago, I can give you a direct comparison and a first impression. Both fragrances have a floral-spicy, powdery and soft-leathery trail.
From a pragmatic point of view, the following changes have been made based on the notes listed: aldehydes, bergamot patchouli and ambroxan have been added - which is actually now an exclusion criterion for me. Here, however, it doesn't drone around in the foreground, but rather keeps the fragrance more alert and bizarre together with the aldehydes and bergamot. Notes have also been swapped: iris for orris root and heliotrope for heliotropin. The new fragrance is somewhat lighter here, the typical Bianchi orris butter note is not as dense.
Overall, there is a clear relationship to the original fragrance - the Cuir Soyeux develops a little softer, velvety and spicier on me, the leather note seems very similar to me, it fades into the background at some point in the Orris Soyeux, whereby the patchouli gives it a very slightly earthy undertone instead, which suits it well and gives the fragrance something classically elegant. On a cotton pad, Orris Soyeux smells a little sharper, which is probably due to the synthetics.
It's very warm in my area today and sometimes quite oppressive (a weather that I often find uncomfortable and where I can only tolerate a few fragrances well). I find both fragrances very floral - again, I attribute this to magnolia, although I'm not sure I know exactly what magnolia actually smells like in perfumes. As they progress, both become a little more powdery, but in the sense of a floral-spicy powderiness without becoming stuffy. I usually prefer Cuir Soyeux in the fall, when spicy and leathery notes are even more prominent.
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Initial conclusion: As Cuir Soyeux is no longer being produced, I think this is an interesting alternative that is definitely worth testing. However, you should always be open to the synthetics it contains. I think they are well integrated. The fragrances are very similar, but will certainly develop with a very different emphasis depending on the skin chemistry. Like many of the "early" Bianchis, both are also somewhat reminiscent of perfumes from "back then", rather dense, concentrated, droplets behind the ear. The Cuir Soyeux does not have a strongly pronounced animalic character; the narcissus in the case of the Cuir Soyeux is perhaps slightly narcissistic, but by no means Haudruff. The Orris Soyeux seems a little more modern to me. As usual with Francesca Bianchi, both fragrances are quite strong, so I recommend using them sparingly. Due to the weather, however, I cannot give any reliable information on the longevity at the moment, but I also assume above-average staying power.
I have a feeling that this review is still incomplete due to the weather and my current mood and will add to it at a later date if necessary.
With many thanks to Lacrimula.
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As I was very lucky that a dear perfumer gave me Cuir Soyeux some time ago, I can give you a direct comparison and a first impression. Both fragrances have a floral-spicy, powdery and soft-leathery trail.
From a pragmatic point of view, the following changes have been made based on the notes listed: aldehydes, bergamot patchouli and ambroxan have been added - which is actually now an exclusion criterion for me. Here, however, it doesn't drone around in the foreground, but rather keeps the fragrance more alert and bizarre together with the aldehydes and bergamot. Notes have also been swapped: iris for orris root and heliotrope for heliotropin. The new fragrance is somewhat lighter here, the typical Bianchi orris butter note is not as dense.
Overall, there is a clear relationship to the original fragrance - the Cuir Soyeux develops a little softer, velvety and spicier on me, the leather note seems very similar to me, it fades into the background at some point in the Orris Soyeux, whereby the patchouli gives it a very slightly earthy undertone instead, which suits it well and gives the fragrance something classically elegant. On a cotton pad, Orris Soyeux smells a little sharper, which is probably due to the synthetics.
It's very warm in my area today and sometimes quite oppressive (a weather that I often find uncomfortable and where I can only tolerate a few fragrances well). I find both fragrances very floral - again, I attribute this to magnolia, although I'm not sure I know exactly what magnolia actually smells like in perfumes. As they progress, both become a little more powdery, but in the sense of a floral-spicy powderiness without becoming stuffy. I usually prefer Cuir Soyeux in the fall, when spicy and leathery notes are even more prominent.
------------
Initial conclusion: As Cuir Soyeux is no longer being produced, I think this is an interesting alternative that is definitely worth testing. However, you should always be open to the synthetics it contains. I think they are well integrated. The fragrances are very similar, but will certainly develop with a very different emphasis depending on the skin chemistry. Like many of the "early" Bianchis, both are also somewhat reminiscent of perfumes from "back then", rather dense, concentrated, droplets behind the ear. The Cuir Soyeux does not have a strongly pronounced animalic character; the narcissus in the case of the Cuir Soyeux is perhaps slightly narcissistic, but by no means Haudruff. The Orris Soyeux seems a little more modern to me. As usual with Francesca Bianchi, both fragrances are quite strong, so I recommend using them sparingly. Due to the weather, however, I cannot give any reliable information on the longevity at the moment, but I also assume above-average staying power.
I have a feeling that this review is still incomplete due to the weather and my current mood and will add to it at a later date if necessary.
With many thanks to Lacrimula.
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