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Essentially a white floral gourmand
This review is based on a sample vial I bought directly from BDK.
I was intrigued and apprehensive about Pas de Soir before I put it on. Even before I bought it, something about the quince chutney reference made me concerned that perfume will feel like a gourmand to me. For those not familiar with quince chutney, it is made by slow-cooking quince (a pear-like fruit) with sugar, cinnamon, vanilla etc. Perhaps that is why I delayed testing it on my skin, though I had tested three other samples that came in the same pack. I had already bought full bottles of Gris Charnel and Rouge Smoking before I got to testing Pas de Soir.
I typically start every perfume by figuring out what I can smell in the opening notes of a perfume. With Pas de Soir, I could pick up some coconut, a vague citrus, white floral notes, a fruity sweet accord and hints of vanilla. Obviously, I was quite far off from the notes listed by the perfumer when I checked those. I couldn’t smell any ginger or pepper in the opening notes. But I got the white florals correct. I had picked jasmine and tuberose, though perfumer used jasmine and orange blossom. In the base notes, I smell mostly mild floral and sweet honey-like notes, not the amber and patchouli listed.
None of this matters really. I can love and adore perfumes where I got all the notes wrong. With Pas de Soir, I am disappointed that it did not reach the heights of Gris Charnel, or even Velvet Tonka and Rouge Smoking. For my nose, there is fierce clash between the jasmine and the quince chutney gourmand note that remains unresolved. I am mystified where the creamy, gourmand notes come from since there is no vanilla, honey or caramel in Pas de Soir.
In summary, this may be great perfume for someone searching for a fruity floral gourmand. For me, it is just an ordinary gourmand with floral notes. The first spray told me that this one is not for me. You should definitely test it on your skin and see the development before you buy a full bottle.
I was intrigued and apprehensive about Pas de Soir before I put it on. Even before I bought it, something about the quince chutney reference made me concerned that perfume will feel like a gourmand to me. For those not familiar with quince chutney, it is made by slow-cooking quince (a pear-like fruit) with sugar, cinnamon, vanilla etc. Perhaps that is why I delayed testing it on my skin, though I had tested three other samples that came in the same pack. I had already bought full bottles of Gris Charnel and Rouge Smoking before I got to testing Pas de Soir.
I typically start every perfume by figuring out what I can smell in the opening notes of a perfume. With Pas de Soir, I could pick up some coconut, a vague citrus, white floral notes, a fruity sweet accord and hints of vanilla. Obviously, I was quite far off from the notes listed by the perfumer when I checked those. I couldn’t smell any ginger or pepper in the opening notes. But I got the white florals correct. I had picked jasmine and tuberose, though perfumer used jasmine and orange blossom. In the base notes, I smell mostly mild floral and sweet honey-like notes, not the amber and patchouli listed.
None of this matters really. I can love and adore perfumes where I got all the notes wrong. With Pas de Soir, I am disappointed that it did not reach the heights of Gris Charnel, or even Velvet Tonka and Rouge Smoking. For my nose, there is fierce clash between the jasmine and the quince chutney gourmand note that remains unresolved. I am mystified where the creamy, gourmand notes come from since there is no vanilla, honey or caramel in Pas de Soir.
In summary, this may be great perfume for someone searching for a fruity floral gourmand. For me, it is just an ordinary gourmand with floral notes. The first spray told me that this one is not for me. You should definitely test it on your skin and see the development before you buy a full bottle.
Musicandarts
