VD opens bitter-spicy and indeed, an image of smoking rubber or smoldering cables comes to mind, becoming increasingly softer, spicier, a bit leathery and sweeter, later resinous-woody. Overall quite unconventional, and one might rightly wonder if one actually wants to smell like this - and if so, why.
The theme of the fragrances from Sous Le Manteau (slm) is secret recipes for love potions that are said to have been made in 19th century France 1). Following this thought, Vapeurs Diablotines presents itself as directly less cumbersome than it might initially seem. The herbaceous-sparkling mandarin, corresponding with the herbs (coriander, bay leaf) and vetiver, can evoke an image of a secret apothecary in some alley in Paris. Healing potions, herbs, powders, and tinctures, surrounded by books filled with accumulated knowledge about diseases, bloodletting, and fever wraps, fill the small space with medicinal-herbaceous aromas. And just like that, the burnt rubber tire has disappeared - replaced by something bitter-natural and a bit occult.
This impression may last for a while, then it becomes increasingly brighter and softer, with incense, geranium, and cistus joining in - and later also spicy (cinnamon, bay leaf, clove) and animalic notes (civet, castoreum). The initially dark-bitter love potion is spiced up with a few aphrodisiac ingredients. Here, however, not sweetly, but smoky and lascivious, they slowly embrace a gently sweet, resinous-woody afterglow (tonka, benzoin, opoponax, styrax). The apothecary patiently grinds ingredients in his mortar, flips through his venerable, leather-bound tomes, and winks at you over his crescent-shaped reading glasses.
According to the "Personality Test" on the slm homepage, Vapeurs Diablotines ("devilish vapors") is dedicated to those wearers who maintain the upper hand even in submission and approach love and humanity with deep insight. The fragrance reflects intimacy and vulnerability as well as the pause and impatience in encounters - devotion and leadership. Therefore, it is at times turbulent, then again calm. 2)
__________________________
In summary, I would describe the fragrance as initially medicinally bitter and spicy, evolving into a powdery-smoky, soft, and pleasantly sweet scent with a mischievous animalic touch. The fragrance is definitely a challenge and wants you to engage with it - then you will be rewarded with exciting scent images. At the same time, Vapeurs Diablotines remains absolutely wearable and, despite its finesse, rather unobtrusive in the environment, as it does not radiate dramatically. Tested simultaneously on both Mr. and Mrs. UntermWert, it does develop quite differently, but I dare say it suits us both well. And whenever I catch myself thinking "this might be too much for me," it captures me again with some magic of deep familiarity.
The fragrance notes are listed somewhat differently in the sources - for example, I perceive cinnamon and saffron, but not so much patchouli. But ultimately... it doesn't matter. Testing recommended.
And: I’m not particularly thrilled by the bottles, but I think it's great that they come in 3 different sizes (14, 50, and 100 ml) - a lovely way to get to know the fragrances thoroughly and acquire them according to personal usage habits.
__________________________
1) For comprehensive and very interesting background information about the brand and the perfumer, I refer to the entry in "Wissenswertes" by Rieke2021.
2) Here, I have freely referenced the fragrance description on the slm website.
Updated on 04/01/2022
Haitian vetiver
Animalic notes
Frankincense
Patchouli
Benzoin
Castoreum
Clove
Laurel
Mandarin orange
Opoponax
Styrax
Cistus
Coriander
Tonka bean absolute
Geranium
Saturnalis
Floyd
Gandix
NuiWhakakore
Sweetsmell75
Pollita
Gschpusi
SchatzSucher
UntermWert
Kovex
