AromaX

AromaX

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AromaX 8 years ago 6
A meditation on a lava stone.
Wearing Id by Mendittorosa is like following a guided meditation where my olfactory impression of the scent replicates the story behind the perfume.

Charcoal darkness of warm porous lava stone, soothing sound of sea lapping against the rocks, caressing warmth of the midday sun weakened by the clouds and a lot of space filled with the calming loneliness. A picture drawn without colors but rather with contrasts and slight tints added to the greyscale.

A perfect meditation place where the metallic mineral odor of lava stone surface mixes with the smell of salt from drying sea drops.

Being there makes me aware about the dark layers slowly flowing under the surface of my subconsciousness. They are so close, I can almost touch them. So close, the feeling that reminds me of the song So Close by Ólafur Arnalds.

In Id I can barely recognize the components it's made of. Well, I can smell labdanum, cinnamon and the metalic oud aspect the most, but inside this scent they are playing the roles and each of them lends its aspects into the total picture which is different than just a sum of the components.
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AromaX 8 years ago 2
Spraying the air from a floral garden on the skin
Spraying efflor_esce on my skin is like surrounding myself with a floral aura. As if I was standing in the middle of the garden where thousands of flowers warmed by the sun are saturating the air with their perfume. On the foreground my nose recognizes the lemony smell of magnolia and apricot jam scented osmanthus. And further I smell a transparent veil of jasmine and lilies-of-the-valley with fruity sweetness of tropical flowers on the background.

The light citrus aspect gives me an impression of a bright day and fresh air. Efflor_esce feels transparent and airy, but at the same time saturated or even mouth-filling.

Although the intensity of the floral impression fades quickly, the airy aura of this perfume is quite long lasting. With time I also recognize aspects of jasmine tea, which reminds me that Hedione (used in this perfume next to Paradisone®) is often used as a main component of a tea accord.

efflor_esce is based on Paradisone® molecule. It is an aromachemical with an intensive floral smell. It’s related to cis-jasmone, a fragrant component naturally occurring in jasmine (which is also found in other aromatic plants). It’s also related to Hedione (a very popular jasmine molecule often referred as “water jasmine”). To make a long story short… Hedione is not a single molecule, but a mix of four isomers. Paradisone® is one of them. The one possessing the most intensive floral smell. It’s like Paradisone® being the floral heart of Hedione.
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AromaX 8 years ago 2
7
Bottle
4
Sillage
6
Longevity
7.5
Scent
A groomed impression of adr_ett
Adr_ett is quite a minimalistic scent. It's based on Helvetolide® (a synthetic musk molecule by Firmenich with aspects of pear and ambrette seed) and other notes are just emphasizing the different aspects of the main ingredient. Being sprayed on the skin it feels rather like a personal signature smell than a perfume. But even being minimalistic adr_ett feels quite complete with its fully developed aspects.

The opening of adr_ett gives me an elegant feeling of an iris perfume with a touch of sweetness of fresh watery pear. The musky aura triggers the associations with a fresh clothes and corresponds with a "neat" or "smartly dressed" meaning of the German "adrett". The "zero gravity" aspect of the scent appears to me as a sense of a soft cloud slowly floating above the ground. Adr_ett is subtle and transparent. stays close to the skin, but leaves an elegant aura and an impression of a groomed person which makes it a good scent for an office wear.

Side note: Helvetolide is a synthetic musk molecule patented by the Swiss company Firmenich in 1991 and named after Swiss Confideration (Confoederatio Helvetica in Latin) for its 700th anniversary. Helvetolide belongs to the generation of acyclic or linear musks. For the first time it was used in 1997 in Swiss Army scent sold on Swissair planes. It is an elegant and expensive smelling musk with aspects of ambrette seed and pear.
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AromaX 8 years ago 3
6
Bottle
4
Sillage
6
Longevity
7.5
Scent
A quiet skin scent with an attitude
The general impression of Vanille Tonka reminds me of a High Key concept where the slightest touches of shadows are creating an image on what seems to be an endlessly white background. It opens with a tingling sensation in my nose caused by the crispy lemon tickling against the fuzzy vanilla. A very similar effect I get in Habit Rouge and to a lesser extent in Shalimar by Guerlain. Then the scent almost disappears flowing out to a white canvas. The citrus brightness calms down and descends in form of an orange flower mist. The touches of warm spices are draping the fabric of canvas into a shape of an exotic flower. Incense deepens the curvy contours of the fluffy vanilla clouds spilling the bittersweet flakes of tonka.

It's a very soft scent spreading a delicate aura of a classic vanilla and tonka accord. To my nose it's too muted perhaps, but it's a great skin scent for those searching for a quiet perfume with an attitude. A nice light perfume for a day wear for the admirers of Habit Rouge or Shalimar.
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AromaX 8 years ago 1
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
A lazy afternoon in a summer garden
The floral aldehydics seem to be the ghosts of the past. The majority of them were born before the eighties. And just a few are launched within the last three decennia. So, it's a pleasant surprise to meet and ode to this classic family at Tauer Perfumes.

In contrast with some other aldehydic perfumes my perception of Noontide Petals has nothing to do with winter, snow or cold. This fragrance is full of summer heat, sun and smell of flowers. It colors my imaginary canvas in all shades of yellow and brings me the pictures of a lazy afternoon in a summer garden.

The air is drenched with warmth and sun insomuch that I almost feel its vibrations. Or is it a hum of bees collecting the precious nectar from the garden? The fizzy power of aldehydes combines with bergamot freshness into a glass of lemonade as an attempt to soothe the summer heat. The mellowed flowers generously fill the air with their scent. To my perception the floral heart of Noontide Petals consists of yellow roses, lilies and ylang-ylang adorned with a sultry touch of jasmine and tuberose. A soporific bouquet inviting for a lazy noontide sleep.

The summer garden of Noontide Petals is enframed in a warm woody base with a touch of sweet vanilla and resins. The frankincense gives it an exotic nuance and brings a melancholic touch to its mood. Later it gives me an impression of a summer evening when the heat has left the air but found a shelter inside the wooden frame until the midnight.

Noontide Petals was not an easy fragrance to me. As many aldehydic florals. It took some time and efforts to learn to love this classic family. It reminds me a bit of Chanel N22 with its aldehydes, resins and ylang-ylang. But when Chanel 22 is at the best in freezing weather, Noontide Petals seems to be its midsummer antipode. The sense of heat in combination with woods and frankincense also reminds me of L'Air du Desert Marocain and Lys du Desert.
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