Arryn

Guerlain.

Does it need anything more? I love Guerlain - and I consider it one of the best perfume houses in the world. After all, it is also one of the oldest. Well, as a layperson in the world of perfume, I only know a fraction of what the Parfumo Research community knows. After my beloved Chanel perfumes, I wanted to look a little further beyond the horizon. Since Guerlain has its own unique story to tell, and some of the legends like Jicky, Shalimar, or L'Heure Bleue come from its creation, it was only natural for me to dive into it.

Therefore, it is almost grotesque that they are not so easy to find right away. Sure - Guerlain perfumes are available from almost all major retailers online - but in-store? For me, initially, there was nothing. While at chain N°1, my counterpart was quite astonished that Guerlain still exists (True Story!), chain N°2 referred me to online shopping - or a store several kilometers away, where at least Shalimar should be available. Then it was probably better to go to one of the Guerlain shop-in-shops in downtown Berlin. At the Waldorf Astoria Hotel …? Or Galerie Lafayette …? Well, it ended in an online blind purchase of Mitsouko.

Upon unpacking, the still ice-cold bottle fogged up. I pressed the spray head for the first time and sniffed. I must have had a big question mark on my face. I couldn't place it at all initially. It was completely different from what I had expected, true to the motto here on Parfumo “Users who like N.N. often also like: … “

There is definitely cinnamon in it. Cloves maybe? Definitely spices, where the oak moss plays a role. Citrus fruits that later support the, unfortunately short, peach aldehyde in the heart. For the rest, my nose is definitely too blunt. But that's okay. Because that's what I love about Mitsouko. It is the most mysterious fragrance in my small collection and the only chypre. It surprises me anew every time. I don't wear it too often, as it is not an everyday scent for me. I want to reserve it for something special, for the evening or night. I imagine I will never let the bottle see daylight. It only sees the dim light of my large gold-glowing filament bulbs, which, with their genuine 60 watts, still conjure a divinely ordained number on the electricity bill. Woe to anyone who screws in an energy-saving bulb …

My conclusion: Mitsouko is, despite reformulation, the legend I expected. There are quite a few perfumes that are unjustly labeled as “old-fashioned.” However, this applies to Mitsouko, and I mean that positively! I can understand if some may not like or want to wear it. Mitsouko is my perfume for special evenings. I would never wear it during the day or in the office. Mitsouko has been referred to by some as the mother of chypres or unisex fragrances - and I gladly endorse that.

Scent: already described above. 9.5/10

Longevity: 7-8 hours, until only the base is really shining through. 8/10

Sillage: rather close to the skin, certainly dependent on the dosage. Those who need it stronger might want to opt for the Eau de Parfum or Extrait. 7/10

Bottle: One of the Guerlain bottles. The decorations initially led my grandmother to assume it was a Russian perfume. Unfortunately, the cap is made of plastic. The Guerlain logo is embossed on the spray head.
Does the label protect against moisture: after a winter car ride, the bottle fogged up so much that while wiping it, a part of the writing on the label unfortunately came off (I still regret my quick drying). 8/10 points.

It is probably thanks to Mon Guerlain that Guerlain is finally celebrating its overdue renaissance, at least in the Berlin perfumeries. Eagerly, space was created for Guerlains in my regular store, so hastily that the saleswoman apologized for the still missing price tags and the deeply hidden testers. At least I got to test Shalimar and some Aqua Allegorias.

But should it only depend on Mon Guerlain? Will the mainstream rediscover classics someday? After all, every Guerlain can be or become “my” Guerlain ...

I have always viewed Chanel N°5 in three parts: the Eau de Toilette, the Eau de Parfum, and the Parfum "Extrait," which corresponds to three different concentration levels. The old Eau de Cologne was no longer available at the time of my birth, and Eau Première and L’Eau simply don't count for me. At least, that was the case until recently. I have already written a comment on both the EdT and EdP. So what could be more natural than to write about the Extrait next? Especially since I now own it thanks to a dear friend from the perfume community. Well, to be honest, I can't exactly say why I'm currently hesitant to write about the Extrait; I think I will take my time with it... Contrary to my somewhat reckless statement that Eau Première doesn't belong to N°5, I am now writing about it. I didn't even pay attention to it in the store at first. "That doesn't belong, it's too young. 2008? Never! I get a lot of fragrances, but not this one..." - those were my initial thoughts. My opinion began to change when my grandmother showed me a sample of L’Eau. However, I couldn't make sense of L’Eau at first either because I was unfortunately constantly comparing it to the actual N°5. I am a big fan of citrus scents, and yet L’Eau is currently on the back burner for me, but that doesn't mean it will stay there. I notice I'm digressing again. I came to Eau Première thanks to a very lovely and nice saleswoman. I was chatting with her about the EdT and eventually asked her for her personal opinion on L’Eau. She replied, as a fellow convinced N°5 wearer, that she accepted Eau Première back then (2008) and liked it, but not the current L’Eau at all. It was simply too "thin" for her. That’s when I decided to take a closer look at the Première. After all, N°5 must be somewhere in there. And how: Aldehydes! Hello, dear aldehydes! Fresh and citrusy, less soapy than in the EdP. And paired in the background with a subtle powdery vanilla and a floral note. I own several products from the entire fragrance line alongside the N°5 scents, including the body cream. And it strongly reminded me of that Première. The heart note smells almost exactly the same - a blend of jasmine and rose, as it is beautifully described, powdery built, on a foundation of sandalwood. If N°5 is the queen, then Eau Première is the crown princess. But not "spoiled-girl-princess-like," rather mature, elegant, and always composed, under the watchful eyes of the queen mother. My conclusion: The Première will be, alongside Cristalle Eau Verte, my spring and summer scent for 2017. But even now, in the still somewhat cooler days, it can be worn effortlessly. For me, it is powder to spray, due to the "whirling" sillage, even more so than the Eau de Parfum. However, that is also the only point I want to criticize; two to three sprays are fine, but after that, it can become too much. The scent cloud that you otherwise leave behind can quickly be perceived by others as "scratchy" and dry. Scent: As mentioned above, 9/10 from me here. Longevity: Somewhere between the EdT and EdP. About 7 hours, but completely acceptable. Just under 8/10 here. Sillage: Varies in my opinion. Quite strong at the start, but relatively close to the body later on. I would have only given it a 7, but depending on the dosage, the scent cloud can sometimes be quite large and "scratchy." Therefore, 8/10 from me here. Bottle: The classic Chanel bottle - and that's a good thing. The embellishments on the cap are silver instead of gold, unlike the EdP. Otherwise, the bottle is really completely identical; even the inscription "Eau de Parfum" is printed on the bottom. However, it seems that there was an earlier version of the bottle according to the photo. Full 10/10.

Anyone who has read my first comment on the Eau de Parfum from Chanel N°5 knows that I am an "incorrigible" Chanel fan. I consider all Chanel perfumes to be very well balanced and harmonious; there isn't really one that I don't like at all, although I certainly wouldn't buy or wear every single one of them. My journey into the world of fragrances began with N°5. Even though I now regularly look at, test, and sometimes buy other perfumes, I always find myself drawn back to this one. I think others can relate to this with their favorite/signature scents.

I don't want to spend too many words on the Eau de Parfum; this can be read on the corresponding page. Just this much: My first N°5 was the currently available EdP; only later did I learn that this is a formulation by Jaques Polge from 1986. Therefore, I had to try the Eau de Toilette! Once again, to experience this scent and dive back into the Roaring Twenties! But should it differ so significantly from the "newer" EdP? In short: Yes.

I had my first encounter with the EdT last December. My first impression fascinated me similarly to how the EdP did back then, but the scent was quite different. While the EdP has a strong and clear soapy-fresh start with pronounced aldehydes, the EdT takes just a tiny bit longer to unfold. The aldehydes are much weaker here, but still easily recognizable. Compared to the EdP, the various notes behave differently as well. From the very beginning, there is a certain floral-powdery scent, while in the EdP, this only becomes noticeable after about 30 minutes. The fragrance is generally much warmer and "more feminine" than the EdP. Even in the base notes at the end, the sandalwood and especially the vanilla feel cozier than in the younger EdP.

Before I get to the conclusion and the remaining ratings, I want to briefly take you into a story about the purchase of the EdT: I stood in front of the shelf with many Chanels, and my questioning-searching gaze soon summoned a saleswoman, as intended. "Can I help you?" - Yes, you can: Do you have the N°5 Parfum Extrait available for testing? I expected a no, as I was pretty sure that these precious drops wouldn't be available for testing. Contrary to that, she reached into the shelf and handed me the Eau de Parfum. In my astonishment, I pointed out to the lady, as a layman, the different concentrations and mentioned that the formulations differ. She then went to the front to the cash register, asked her colleague, and came back. "No, we don't have the Extrait for testing, but it smells just like the Eau de Parfum." At that point, I decided not to continue the conversation, thanked her politely, and left the store. With a man, you can do that; he's just looking for something to give to his grandma. Whether they really thought that, I certainly don't know. Fortunately, there was another perfumery at the other end of the shopping center, albeit a bit smaller. The lady there was very friendly, and I could chat with her for quite a while about N°5 in the various concentrations. Ultimately, we even got excited about Guerlain, as I had just bought Mitsouko online a few days earlier, which I also like very much. Happy and satisfied, I left the store with the EdT of N°5.

My conclusion: The Eau de Toilette lives up to its name. The scent is wonderfully balanced, warm, and diverse. It is significantly more floral and powdery than the EdP; the top, heart, and base notes flow into each other differently. I enjoy wearing it, and it will remain in my collection! But, I must add a caveat. As a man, I prefer the soapier, "more robust" EdP over the EdT. I simply love those strong aldehydes. N°5 is both for me - the EdT and the EdP, and I wouldn't want to miss either. I wear the EdP much more often, but on some days, I already know early in bed, "Today again the Eau de Toilette."

Scent: As mentioned above, 9.5/10 from me here. The full 10 is reserved for the Extrait. The EdP received a solid 9 from me.

Longevity: The longevity is very good for an EdT. Early on and throughout the day is no problem; in the late afternoon/evening, it can be confidently reapplied, but if not, that's also fine. The base notes last until the evening. 9/10

Sillage: The sillage is medium-strong in my opinion. 8/10 here.

Bottle: I bought the refillable piano lacquer version back then. Very nice to look at, typical Chanel style, also available as a non-refillable bottle. The "classic" Chanel bottle seems to be reserved for the EdP and Extrait. Whether the EdT was available in this earlier is beyond my knowledge. 9/10, as I find the classic even more elegant.

Well then, my journey is not over yet, as I still unfortunately do not have the Extrait. I am more than curious about it. I also want to try to get a vintage version of the EdT over the course of the year. Maybe in March, something will happen with the Extrait for my birthday. With a bit of luck, Pour Monsieur will come first in February...

Yesterday I received a sample from the lady in turquoise. My first thought in the car was: "Too bad, I already have this sample. Well, whatever." At home, however, I discovered that there are several Invictus fragrances and my sample is the one from 2013. The "normal" one? I didn't really like it, but I always like to give every new perfume a chance. So I wore and tested it last night and all day today, actually without intending to write a comment.

In the first tiny breath, it reminded me of La Nuit de L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent, a scent I really like but don't wear often due to a lack of occasions. However, I quickly pushed that thought out of my mind within seconds when the synthetic notes hit me. The orange blossom and pepper made the scent initially pleasant, but the longer I smelled it, the more the laurels and that hint of what I assume is whisky mixed in. As is often the case with new fragrances, especially those I don't particularly like: you smell them constantly for the first minutes/hours. Not that it bothered me, but I find the scent doesn't have anything truly special about it. Other fragrances regularly bring a smile to my face when a breeze wafts by. Unfortunately, not with Invictus Intense. The sample will now be passed around among friends.

My conclusion: A solid perfume that is generally well-balanced. Its weakness is that it lacks something special. The scent of Invictus Intense wasn't really new to me; I've smelled these notes in altered forms from other brands, and even in deodorants.

Scent: Already described above, 7/10 from me here. A solid perfume that will surely find its place in some collections.

Longevity: The longevity is okay. 8/10 here, as it could have lasted a little longer on my skin.

Sillage: Same as with longevity, perhaps a bit too noticeable for some noses. 7/10

Bottle: I only see it in the photo right now. To be honest, I usually just walk past Paco Rabanne in the store. But it’s the same as with Invictus, just in dark gray-anthracite. 8/10

Blue is by far my favorite color. Preferably a strong navy or royal blue, like the walls in my childhood room once were. The salesperson at the hardware store back then didn’t know what to say when my father told him that the whole room was to be painted in this strong color and that we didn’t want to use it for mixing. This thread runs through my life to this day. My car is blue, much of my clothing, and so after my first perfume, the great Chanel N°5, I wanted a blue bottle, and this time a men’s fragrance. Only I myself have never been blue, and God willing, I never will be.
It was fortunate that after I ordered my first N°5, I briefly clicked into the men’s fragrances from Chanel. “Bleu de Chanel” shimmered from the countless pixels on my tablet. Blue is what it means, and my French was just enough for that. Fascinated by the bottle and the first description, I decided to keep an eye on this perfume. A week later, I had the opportunity to experience the scent during a visit to a perfumery. I flinched at the first sniff, as I was surprised or initially even irritated. However, as a perfume novice, I didn’t really know what to expect from the color “blue” and the description “woody-spicy.” I decided to move on and think about it again later.
At the end of my shopping tour, the Eau de Parfum was in my blue fabric bag. At home, it was eagerly unpacked and applied. With practically every hand movement, I sensed the lemons and mandarins, and a certain spiciness and woodiness soon made themselves known. I find that the fresh top note lasts unusually long. In the heart note, the woods and vanilla take over, which clearly relaxes and calms, as the start can sometimes be a bit too “intense” for me. The base note ultimately underpins the whole thing and allows the scent to fade relatively warm.
Bleu de Chanel is for me less a scent for the day or work. It suits me best on a cool autumn evening. A fragrance that exudes warmth and security and echoes the past summer - hinting at the next spring.
About the Eau de Parfum:
Scent: I have already explained this above. 8.5/10 from me here, as the start sometimes simply screams too strongly of citrus fruits.
Longevity: The longevity is very good; you can easily get through the day or night. 9/10.
Sillage: The sillage is initially quite strong in my opinion. However, it does fade somewhat over time. 8/10 from me.
Bottle: Dark blue, simple, and square. In some respects, I am a minimalist. The magnetic closure brought me childlike joy, as I didn’t really expect something like that. 9/10 for that.