AtTheScenter

AtTheScenter

Reviews
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longing for nostalgia - or: about preserving and invoking
the dawn lay like a warming veil over nature,
as I awoke in an open field
and even before I opened my eyes, fragrant essences
draped over my face and body like a silk cloth
ripe blood oranges hang golden in the late summer sun
warming saffron dusts and envelops the fruit,
on whose skin honey-sweet drops glisten like morning dew
but the early freshness of the blood orange fades with the rise
of the sun
hazelnuts fall from the tree
bees buzz among the dry hay
ungluey natural honey sweetness drips from the tree
onto bitter dry tobacco
here no moist-dark-fermented tobacco leaves are steaming
these leaves were dried in the sun, whose warmth they still carry within
in the wooden hut at the other end of the meadow, a mother bakes sweet desserts,
in her kitchen a little incense burns
in front of the hut stands a basket with dried spices and precious woods,
whose scent the wind carries over
I daydreamed that I sprinkled a handful of dried hay and shavings of fine woods
with spices and wrapped it in a tobacco leaf,
which I sealed with honey and wax,
but I did not ignite this bundle, I only held it in the light veil
of the pastry and incense scent wafting from the hut,
to give it just a hint of smoke
like a potpourri of everything that means nature and embodies rural summer,
I carried this bundle before me and likewise its scent carried me through the day,
from morning to evening glow
indulging, daydreaming, wandering in pleasure

everything is bright and warm, the sun of this late summer casts no shadows
but the light is never too glaring, nothing is exaggerated to the point of blinding
where one might expect shadows, one would have to search for them, for it never gets cold,
everything is permeated with warm golden red
it is the pleasant sun of the afternoon late summer,
into which one, with eyes closed to enjoyment, gladly holds their face, smiling contentedly
the immediate moment between nature and spirit,
in which one lets everything be thought
and one is only sensual perception, enjoying without wanting

everything is warm, yet nothing sweats
it is dry and yet it flows, like a sweet resinous-bitter liqueur,
that drips from the sun and falls over the woods and oranges,
where it settles on tobacco leaves and hay
the drops sparkle in the sunset, yet it seems as if the sun stands there forever,
it does not want to sink until the end
the air shimmers between the tones of nature,
the chirping of birds, the buzzing of bees,
the swaying of the wind in the dry hay,
the crackling of the warmed woods,
the tobacco leaves drying in the sun

everything is in agreement, nothing envies each other

I remember the inspiration of Angelo
and yes, there is a coherent image
I see his ancestors working their daily tasks in the tobacco fields,
nestled in untouched nature, leading a simple life,
sometimes hard but content, far from urban hustle,
more devoted than self-sacrificing
I see a rural idyll that carries a sense of security,
which the scent also evokes in me
this is a summer that I like and that may live within me

an ode to the lived pure moment of past times
and in the attempt to preserve this, also a nostalgic reminder
of its transience
and only the remembering is what allows us to conjure it up again and again,
and if the conjuring formula is sometimes an elixir in a glass bottle
precious because of its exquisite ingredients,
but even more precious because of its almost alchemical abilities

fabulously realized concept, I am happy to have discovered this craft-and-soul art, it will surely not be the only scent of the house
the included sample of Tabac Libre is already on my list of next acquisitions
6 Comments
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(too impressive and actually too short for a review, but too long for a statement...)
mild clear bright incense fingers
meditatively rummaging in a singing bowl,
where warm sandalwoods,
subtle saffron sweetness and
restrained myrrh spice
weave into a nearly creamy smoothness
with a rather light balsamic, instead of a dark resinous labdanum
later, when the sun yields to the moon,
half-dry rose petals rise from the background,
carried by sacred breath,
dancing on the undulating bed of light smoke

everything very finely tuned and blended into a balanced mixture
of bright smoke, warm wood, subtle sweetness, light balsamic spice
and dry flowers
h/s could be more present
but an aura of coziness invites one to indulge in oneself
for me, the smoke could also be a bit more pronounced,
but as it is, it is also well wearable on mild summer evenings
a truly beautiful fragrance

6 Comments
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...and the caravan hopefully won't move on for a long time...
okay, here we actually have at the beginning a representative of the much-criticized "animalistic" ouds. which should not cast any negative light (or shadow?) on it, but rather distinguishes it for me. and "animalistic" is, in my opinion, the most prominent attribute I can assign to an oud, because since I love oud, there is no "fecal" for me.

but it is much more than just that. if you take a look at the fragrance notes from the classification, you can see that pretty much every note indicated in the diagram is hidden in this elixir. and coaxing all these attributed notes from it is no masterpiece, as it rises like a small explosion of sensual impressions from the skin right after spraying.
the first impression might make one believe that it is somewhat disharmonious, as if the components are too opposing, as if there is a bit too much of everything.
too much darkness, too much freshness, too much bloom, too much sweetness, too much acidity. but this impression fades very quickly, and all the notes of the mosaic merge into a harmonious overall picture.
the more astonishing this complex fragrance painting of a hundred colors becomes when you compare the numerous notes of the classification diagram with the comparatively manageable notes of the fragrance pyramid. only then does it become clear how masterfully woven this scent is composed when it unfolds in such a wealth of impressions.
you really get pretty much every one of the indicated notes here (of course also always subject to individual perception), but never does one of the notes dominate too much, and none truly gets lost; each gets its moment to be present.

the interplay of light and shadow mentioned at the beginning is perfectly mastered. but it is not that we get an either-or, but rather a both-and. when we are briefly in the light, it lures us with its shadow; when we then go into the shadow, it promises us light again.
I caught myself, during the first tasting on test strips, having to take it in my hand again and again to smell it over and over, as I could never really "believe" it, as I could never quite grasp the scent; but it fascinates with every sniff, as it constantly plays with all its notes, almost as if the individual notes and nuances fluttered around the constantly blooming bud called oud like butterflies.
and then finally, applied to the neck, one sits contentedly and enjoys oneself, almost meditatively observing how the scent rises, envelops, and enchants. one feels good about oneself when one lets oneself be seduced by its sensuality.
...well, I admit it, I rave... I confess, I am in love...
but still for me a truly fabulous craftsmanship at the height of its abilities, which fully exploits all possibilities in this scent.

normally, I never judge the price of a perfume in the star rating. I think it is always a very personal matter what value one assigns to a scent, or generally to an object. some people spend thousands or millions on a painting that others would not value at 30 euros, or that another painter would create for a few hundred euros.
yes, 350 euros for 30ml is a very proud price. therefore, this is a scent that I will wear only very exclusively and selectively. of course, I am tempted to buy 1-2 bottles as a reserve if the financial situation allows. perhaps also due to the knowledge that this golden piece is limited because of the vintage oud contained and that this masterpiece will never be available again. therefore, I must guard it like the treasure that it is.

but despite the price, I recommend it to anyone who likes complex yet harmoniously composed ouds with a recognizable oud scent to at least test it once. before spending the same money on 100ml of a good scent that cannot captivate as thoroughly as this one, I gladly invest in such masterpieces.

fort & manlé have already impressed me with bojnokopff and late harvest, and the new qahwa is fantastic, but here he has outdone himself once again.
hats off, Mr. Rasei Fort
2 Comments
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the opera - piano or forte?
...a short statement that would be too long for a statement... ^^

1890 / la dame de pique is inspired by and dedicated to Tchaikovsky's opera

although only a few notes overlap from the pyramid score, the character of the fragrance symphony reminds me of Opera by Xerjoff.

in the overture, they are still quite different, but after a while, they start to converge.
both beautifully dark floral, with a slightly positively old-school vibe. I really like that vintage diva vibe.
while in Opera the fruity floral aspect prevails, in 1890 there is a bit more room for a light spiciness and a minimally underlying leathery smokiness. 1890 is therefore also a bit less powdery.
Xerjoff's Opera is more present in its opulence, while 1890 is a bit more restrained in its sillage.
both, however, are independent fragrances with their own justification, and everyone will find their occasion.
even though 1890 is declared a women's fragrance, could it perhaps be the slightly more masculine Opera?
but since I don't care about such classifications anyway, I enjoy wearing both very much.

so for those who prefer the opera a bit more delicately piano and not just forte, they should take a chance and give it a sniff.
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underdog on the fast track
I ordered it blind, as it was somewhat discounted. I thought at that price, you can't go wrong. If worse comes to worst, it would be another blind buy that disappointed. It's always a bit of a gamble with Ajmal; I find some fragrances fantastic, while others hardly impress. But this one definitely belongs to the first category.
It arrived, was sprayed on, and triumphed. ^^

Here we have a beautiful, authentic oud without overly extravagant components, no rose, no saffron, no other spices, etc., and I mean that quite positively. It doesn't need any frills; it stands in its beauty on its own and wants to be recognized as such. It is an oud, as one expects an oud to be if one truly enjoys the scent of real oud.

It has (for me) hardly any animalic notes; we are more on the dark woody side, damp wood, but at the same time dry warmth, slightly leathery, slightly smoky, pleasantly earthy, just a hint of foresty, mossy, like the warm sun shining on fallen, decayed trees in a damp autumn forest. A lovely resinous quality that becomes slightly creamier over time and clings to its wearer. Very pleasant and absolutely wearable at any time, for me, it is especially an enchanting, balsamic, and enveloping feel-good scent.

About 4 years ago, I once purchased 3ml of a pure oud oil with exactly these characteristics; I loved that cuddly warmth, but unfortunately, it was soon used up, and I couldn't repurchase it. Since then, I have bought several oils, and there were undoubtedly some good ones among them, but none had these characteristics. All the more beautiful that I have (almost) found that character here again.

For anyone who loves real oud and enjoys applying pure oud oils, this is highly recommended. A true insider tip, especially considering the price-performance ratio. I actually expect such an authentic oud scent in such quality when I pay 4-6 times the price at high-end niche brands. This is definitely worth indulging in as a blind buy, but only if you truly expect and desire oud when purchasing one. If you immediately associate "barn," "fecal," or "stinky cheese" with the contentious topic of oud, then I would advise against it.

I, at least, was shockingly in love and can only hope that this fragrance won't be discontinued anytime soon. Otherwise, it's time to stock up. ;)
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