BamBamNYC

Despite the Cuir in its name, this fragrance doesn’t smell like leather. Instead, it’s an abstract interpretation of suede: a powdery soft texture from the heliotrope, a touch of aldehyde for lightness. This abstraction combined with the vanilla base makes it a perfect marriage of Guerlain and Chanel.

Like many of my fragrance loves, I did not go crazy for it upon first wearing—too powdery, low projection. However, I reached for my sample again and again. High-quality immortelle is a treasure, this one more caramel-y than curry-like. It has so much depth despite its simple first impression. Will be buying a bottle when the weather gets cooler again.

This fragrance is unique and takes several wearings to fully appreciate. Like many of my fragrance loves, the first wearing was “meh”. In the case of Angelique Noire, I outright hated it. I tried it again and again only because it is so highly regarded and I felt I missed something.

It eventually clicked and this scent captivated me more with each wearing. It’s like a plate of baby arugula tossed with vanilla extract and sugar. It sounds gross on paper. It should not work. Yet it does. (Dirt Candy sometimes does this refreshingly creative concept for dessert. I’m a fan of this vegetal and sweet combo.)

The bitter and vegetal angelica clashes against the creamy and saccharine vanilla. It is akin to putting sugar and creamer in coffee. The only downside is the late drydown when the angelica has faded away and the sweet vanilla remains; the vanilla no longer has anything to contrast to.

Angelica is often blended into fragrances but it is rarely put front and center. Here, the angelica is given the spotlight and absolutely kills the show.