Byenbye
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Byenbye
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First lax, then sweet
How can you evaluate Eau Première without comparing it to the original, be it the Extrait or Eau de Toilette?
You spray and smell and sniff, and somehow you are waiting for something you know or love about the original. And so the comparison begins.
The opening is familiar, aldehydic for sure (because I really don't know what aldehydes smell like), it's that familiar intensity, that surge that wafts around your nose in varying strength in all versions of No 5, and yet it's different, sweeter somehow, a bit like No 22, which also leaves you dazed. Something is simply missing, an explosiveness, an anchor in the clouds of scent, a goal.
And so I wait, or rather I wait. I wait to see what happens next, sniffing every few minutes, and then - well, nothing comes. At least not what makes No 5 so irresistible to me, the spice, the depth, the counterpoint to the powder. And I think, nope, that's nothing. Everything interesting is gone. It's flat, it's boring. It's just sweet, with no fine tentacles to take you into the spice and, I guess you'd call it animalic.
And I smelled it all on the wrist of my mom, who is my test subject and on whom No 5 has always smelled wonderful. Always a little woody, always a little spicy, and not a hint of boredom.
But the Eau Première, well, it sits in the aldehydes, and I find it lacking in depth,
and I think about the target clientele, young, not old-fashioned, modern, that wants to be addressed here. And I wonder how it can be that Eau Première is basically much more old-fashioned, soapy, powdery, almost uninteresting.
How can it be that the very thing that makes No 5 (the original) so timeless for me and I'm sure for many people has been removed?
The counterpoints, the wood, how can it be that these are being scaled down and only sweet powder remains?
I'm a little disappointed, because it smells quite nice, but really very very boring, and if it didn't remind me of my No 5, it would just be any fragrance that turned out a little too soapy.
But then, after another few minutes, half an hour, something suddenly comes into the fragrance that is completely new and great. The flowers blossom and the scent becomes wonderfully lovely, very light, very airy, irresistibly delicate and flowery, the soap has disappeared.
It will probably be the rose (it is indicated), although it seems to me to be something more delicate.
And this is the scent. The heart.
Without animalism. Without the fragrance profile of balanced contrasts of the forefathers of extrait and eau de toilette.
The original is still present, in the opening, and also later, a constant similarity of aldehydes and jasmine. But Eau Premiere is lighter, more floral.
I would never say young.
It would be too insulting to think that young can't compete with spice and wood.
It's simply a question of character.
On my mom, who turned 89 yesterday, Eau Première smells enchanting after the first half hour.
Eau Première is light and delicate and floral, for all ages.
The beginning is too sweet for me.
There, the spiciness of the original creates the unique harmony that Eau Première lacks in the opening, albeit delicately enveloping in the heart.
*The first-generation Eau Première was tested in the elongated bottle.
You spray and smell and sniff, and somehow you are waiting for something you know or love about the original. And so the comparison begins.
The opening is familiar, aldehydic for sure (because I really don't know what aldehydes smell like), it's that familiar intensity, that surge that wafts around your nose in varying strength in all versions of No 5, and yet it's different, sweeter somehow, a bit like No 22, which also leaves you dazed. Something is simply missing, an explosiveness, an anchor in the clouds of scent, a goal.
And so I wait, or rather I wait. I wait to see what happens next, sniffing every few minutes, and then - well, nothing comes. At least not what makes No 5 so irresistible to me, the spice, the depth, the counterpoint to the powder. And I think, nope, that's nothing. Everything interesting is gone. It's flat, it's boring. It's just sweet, with no fine tentacles to take you into the spice and, I guess you'd call it animalic.
And I smelled it all on the wrist of my mom, who is my test subject and on whom No 5 has always smelled wonderful. Always a little woody, always a little spicy, and not a hint of boredom.
But the Eau Première, well, it sits in the aldehydes, and I find it lacking in depth,
and I think about the target clientele, young, not old-fashioned, modern, that wants to be addressed here. And I wonder how it can be that Eau Première is basically much more old-fashioned, soapy, powdery, almost uninteresting.
How can it be that the very thing that makes No 5 (the original) so timeless for me and I'm sure for many people has been removed?
The counterpoints, the wood, how can it be that these are being scaled down and only sweet powder remains?
I'm a little disappointed, because it smells quite nice, but really very very boring, and if it didn't remind me of my No 5, it would just be any fragrance that turned out a little too soapy.
But then, after another few minutes, half an hour, something suddenly comes into the fragrance that is completely new and great. The flowers blossom and the scent becomes wonderfully lovely, very light, very airy, irresistibly delicate and flowery, the soap has disappeared.
It will probably be the rose (it is indicated), although it seems to me to be something more delicate.
And this is the scent. The heart.
Without animalism. Without the fragrance profile of balanced contrasts of the forefathers of extrait and eau de toilette.
The original is still present, in the opening, and also later, a constant similarity of aldehydes and jasmine. But Eau Premiere is lighter, more floral.
I would never say young.
It would be too insulting to think that young can't compete with spice and wood.
It's simply a question of character.
On my mom, who turned 89 yesterday, Eau Première smells enchanting after the first half hour.
Eau Première is light and delicate and floral, for all ages.
The beginning is too sweet for me.
There, the spiciness of the original creates the unique harmony that Eau Première lacks in the opening, albeit delicately enveloping in the heart.
*The first-generation Eau Première was tested in the elongated bottle.
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