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Confidential
Confidential would fit the scent very well.. it somehow
creates an intimate aura, also somewhat erotic-sensual.
The concentrated fruit power at the beginning, mainly smelling of blackcurrant, instantly lifts the mood and creates a first wow! Almost reflexively, I think of Aqaysos, even without the concentrated musk, which I would really like in Aqaysos. Not fruit tea, no gummy candies or fruit yogurt, but very dark, highly aromatic, plump, and very dense.
Dark spices, slightly sweet with a hint of sharpness provide a well-measured balance. Even though the slight base sweetness of Irreverent seems familiar to me and my skepticism arises with three fragrances released simultaneously (in general), it still scores high. I believe this
is mainly due to the velvety leather contributing a very adult sweetness and especially spiciness, not unlike the suede from YSL. The subtle and very light animalic note suits it excellently!
Only late in the base do dry woods reveal themselves to me, enriching the scent with yet another new facet, so the nose never gets bored with any phase. I love such developments!
Sometimes the dark sides of Prolixe remind me of oud, but I don't think there's any in it, not important.
For me, by far the most beautiful scent of the three newcomers, one of the most beautiful and especially most extraordinary fragrances from Histoires overall.
Longevity and sillage are superb, so one should keep the index finger under control, otherwise, one might ruin the fragrance experience and/or get too much. This scent fits wonderfully into the cooler seasons and is more suited for the evening.
Everyday suitability: 6/10
Feel-good factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 9/10
Price/performance: 6/10
Idea + implementation: 9/10
Packaging/bottling: 10/10
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Autumn Whisper
Irrelevant?
Man..my brain sometimes leads me astray when reading quickly.
I always read Irrelevant..but that wouldn’t do justice to the fragrance.
The relatively few (but very good) opinions about the scent and the wonderful bottles made me very curious about the relatively new series from Histoires de Parfums.
Irreverent starts with an absolutely wonderful top note of slightly sweet-spicy resins and a sun-drenched incense. This has a slight fruitiness like Serge Lutens Fille en aiguilles, but to me it feels rounder and more complex. Everything about Irreverent smells wonderfully of a forest in late summer, the bushes still bear many forest berries in deep red colors, the mosses are still lush green, the woods almost dusty-dry, with only a little foliage on the ground..the first brown leaves are appearing..nostalgia for the almost gone summer arises, bidding farewell in stages, leaf by leaf, acorn by acorn. But the aromas, the spice of the forest create a desire for this season, even in terms of scent.
The longer the fragrance dances on the skin, the softer, rounder, creamier, and more balsamic it becomes. Unfortunately, it becomes a bit ordinary in the base, which is due to the recently very commonly used combination of amber-incense; normally, oud and/or saffron would also be present here. The sandalwood, however, leads one down a false trail. What I like about this amber variant is this slight caramel-honey touch, which beautifully rounds off the fragrance and brings it to a calm. A hint of leather gives it the finishing touch and saves it from mediocrity. The sweetness is well chosen, so that it misses the gourmand category, which is not a disadvantage. The scent smells very (high) quality and noble, yet is still very suitable as an everyday fragrance.
The longevity is beyond 6 hours and you perceive it well for a long time without ever being intrusive or overpowering.
Everyday suitability: 8/10
Feel-good factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 7/10
Price/performance: 6/10
Packaging/bottling: 10/10
Idea+implementation: 6/10
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I'm Out!
Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything about Isos, but there's more information on Isis and of course a lot about Iso! On the Farmacia website, it reads: A spicy fragrance; memories of flavours and scents from distant lands.
Well then, let's set off to the distant lands.
Isos greets you with a cool and fresh burst, slightly sharp-spicy. My thoughts immediately go to Molecule01, but there are also similarities to Zarko's Buddha-Wood, Oud’ish, or even Supercharged Molecule. After a few minutes, a hint of mint accompanies the few flowers that have survived into autumn; they also have a slight white and ozonic touch, one could imagine it as Shelter Island Light, but without Oud and aquatic notes.
At times, they emit a sharp, piercing aroma, but it doesn't dominate the scent significantly. This is mainly due to the spices and woods, which can bring in quite a bit of "spicy," but the focus is on the woods that radiate a nice dryness, perhaps borrowed from 450. For me, the scent has a Nordic touch akin to Agonist, cool, clean, distinctive. However, it could also fit very well into the range of Profumum Roma's Thundra, Olibanum, Santalum, and IchNusa, as they all share a distinct ethereal imprint-a common denominator. Perhaps this effect also comes from the "fresh," invigorating pepper (juniper?), which gives Isos a certain edge and clearly differentiates it from 450.
Isos has a slightly meditative effect for me; perhaps that's what "distant lands" refers to, which would fit quite well... like in the Schöffel advertisement "I'm out!"
For me, it's already the 3rd beautiful scent from Farmacia SS. Even though none of them has made me completely ecstatic so far, I find them all above average enjoyable. The longevity is very good at 6-7 hours, and the sillage is in the middle range.
Everyday suitability: 8/10
Comfort factor: 8/10
Wow effect: 7/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Idea + execution: 9/10
Packaging/bottling: 9/10
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Shadows of Autumn Part 2
Shadows of Autumn Part 2
I still don't understand the distribution and pricing policy specifically for this fragrance. On the market since 2017 (but where exactly?), it has only recently been available for online order at a very low price (mine cost €44), yet it doesn't appear on the Lalique website. Is this another one of those (annoying) limited editions only for selected markets? I would love to take a look behind the scenes... but maybe it's better not to...
The scent is painted for autumn... you can almost smell the autumn forest in all its facets. The first impression is fresh, as if stepping from the warming sun into the shade of the forest, and you realize it is already autumn and no longer late summer. A subtly minty bergamot appears, wonderfully fresh and cool, a spectacle that can only be smelled for a few seconds before autumn throws all its spicy and woody elements around. For me, it’s a blend of Gucci PHI and Man2 by CdG. Woods, nutmeg, allspice, bark, foliage, dryness. It rushes over me, and I want to dive in and take a deep breath immediately. This mix captivates me right away, but that’s no wonder since I really like Gucci and CdG. Especially Man2 is, for me, despite certain synthetics and brand characteristics, the ideal autumn companion. Ombre Noire smells very masculine to me, without being a macho pseudo-parody. As if that weren’t enough, this wonderful mix is complemented by a cognac note, very aromatic, deep, and slightly sweet; when I smell my Armagnac bottle, I see clear parallels, it also brings a certain sharpness that I really like in high-performers.
This also leads into the quiet phase of the fragrance, it doesn’t change much anymore. Some accuse it of having a simple mainstream base, but for me, it becomes creamy-balsamic, soft... like sweet-aromatic, golden resin, here the beautiful color of the fragrance fits perfectly with the notes. For me, the entire fragrance smells wonderful; whether the base can meet the highest standards, I cannot judge, I have never particularly paid attention to that, but even with my very expensive fragrances, I wouldn’t have noticed anything particularly exclusive here, as the base notes often don’t serve that purpose. But even if they did, for €44 it can smell a bit ordinary in the end.
Its outwardly glamorous and stylish appearance is matched by its inner values 1:1; the longevity is great at 6-7 hours, I can always perceive the scent in just the right dose without overwhelming others, that alone distinguishes it from many mainstream fragrances.
Conclusion: For me, in this price range (even if the retail price should be a bit higher), there is no more beautiful and higher-quality fragrance. Here you get extremely much for extremely little.
Everyday suitability: 9/10
Comfort factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 7/10
Price/performance: 10/10
Idea + implementation: 8/10
Packaging/bottling: 9/10
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Shadows of Autumn
The perfect autumn.
Yes, that comes to mind with Tom Ford's new leather fragrance.
Sure, one could go ahead and compare Ombre Leather
in detail with Tuscan Leather, Ombre Leather12 or
with the Rasasis of this world. However, I would only recommend this to those Parfumos
who already have one of these fragrances in their collection. Otherwise, one might miss the beauty of this scent. Reducing the fragrance to whether and how much raspberry is left, whether Rasasi does it better and cheaper, or maybe Parfums de Marly is indeed the better choice, can be done - but it is not necessary.
Yes, it does have a similarity to OL16, but due to the lack of current testing opportunities, my comparisons are written from memory. I already liked that OL16 contained NO raspberry, but was expanded with floral and mossy nuances; it was rounder, softer than Tuscan Leather. To stand out, one was of course "better" served with Tuscan Leather, but thankfully many do not find that important.
Ombre Leather will not go down in history as a clubbing monster or disco king, but it possesses a lot of charm and subtle beauty.
The usual Tom Ford eccentricity is kept in check this time, which does not harm it.
For me, Ombre Leather has a wonderful, dark nappa leather, smooth, thick, with no grain. Of course, there are more authentic leather fragrances, which are admired, but for me, they are often difficult to wear. Woody and floral streaks can also be grasped, but they are more of a refinement than an accent. For me, it is more of a fragrance carpet that is very pleasing, suggesting that it is not just made of leather. Here, one could philosophize endlessly about whether the base is worthy of a signature or private blend, but I don't really care, as everyday wearability is often my priority. For me, it is simply a round unity with relatively little development; it becomes slightly weaker over the hours, but also a bit more bitter. No new impressions come along, but I wouldn't want to speak of soliflor or mono-like.
The longevity and sillage are very well chosen, not an "Aale-Dieter" scent, but
you get many hours of enjoyment from it, and you can smell yourself for quite a while
without bothering others too much.
Conclusion: Great autumn and winter all-rounder, its spiciness fits wonderfully into the now changing forest without offering entirely new elements.
Everyday wearability: 8/10
Comfort factor: 8/10
Wow effect: 6/10
Price/performance: 8/10
Idea + implementation: 9/10