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The Parfumo Trap?
Have I fallen into the Parfumo trap? Have I become a niche snob?
Actually, I don't want to engage in such a discussion level, as I don't really relate to the categorization of niche/mainstream, but a statement about this fragrance has made me reflect.
Have I, after all these years at Parfumo, become a niche snob?!
I associate a niche snob with someone who inherently finds niche fragrances better than mainstream ones, so my judgment would be more of a no. Do I sometimes let myself be dazzled by beautiful packaging? Yes, that happens. But that is absolutely human and can be found in every area of life... women, cars, clothes... so why not also with perfumes?!
In the last 3 weeks, I have had an interesting experience. For various reasons, I haven't been spending as much time on Parfumo and have really gotten fed up with constantly testing, evaluating, categorizing scents, etc. I didn't have a single (niche) fragrance sample on hand, and then with the last fragrance package, I received a sample of Percival, the new fragrance from Parfums de Marly.
I immediately dismissed it with a statement, something like "drugstore discount item in niche clothing," because I just don't like those shower gel scents; the Versace PHs, Invictus Aquas, and the like are simply not my world, even though I came from that background in 2013, before I signed up at Parfumo.
Nevertheless, I gave Percival significantly more chances than the comparable fragrances in this scent direction, which I always waved off at Müller/Douglas. And yes... I liked Percival more and more, day by day, even though the scent experience somehow felt very familiar to me, without finding a 100% match; they all seemed somewhat similar yet different. What exactly? No idea, but the fragrance in its spicy freshness and light sweetness somehow appeals to me. Have I already fallen for the niche disguise? I do believe that the brand and the bottle generally influence me in a way that makes me more inclined to view it favorably, equating the price and the heavy bottle with value and quality. I am honest with myself; I can't completely rule it out in this case... and not with other fragrances (anymore) either. I just noticed over the weeks of abstinence that the less niche fragrances I tested, the less I read about them here (daily), the less I focused on perfume, becoming more of a daily user (without much thought) than an obsessive collector who scrutinizes, dissects, analyzes, and compares fragrances from 100 angles, always searching for the best scent in each category, the more fun I found in such fragrances again, simply wearing them without much fuss and without rising white smoke, just like in the past when it was only about smelling good, at least for me.
I would have liked to find more characterful fragrances over the years for myself. They fascinate me and would better correspond to my self-understanding, or so I thought, but I won't be happy with them in the long run; they just don't suit me, they don't create a feel-good aura around me, they only give me a hint of exclusivity, the feeling of holding something special in my hand, which had somehow been "important" to me for a long time, now I wonder why!?
I could have written these sentences about many fragrances and brands, but only Percival has brought this to the surface, holding up a mirror to me. The second-to-last Lost Cherry comment just confirmed it for me. I love niche fragrances; I have just worn them for far too long for the wrong reasons. Percival, through its clever disguise, has paved the way "back" for me to carefree enjoyment, and that's how it should be, but there will never be a black-and-white world for me, just a trust-in-my-own-nose.
Percival lasts exceptionally well, 8-9 hours without any problems, which is quite a statement for a so-called fresh scent; the sillage is above average.
I simply love its fruity freshness, somewhat aquatic yet somehow not, herb-spicy and lightly woody from the heart note.
Anyone looking for an uncomplicated feel-good fragrance, who wants to smell freshly showered and well-groomed, will find it here. I am also completely honest here; I certainly wouldn't have bought it at the retail price of €200, but online you can get it for about 45% less, so it worked for me.
Even though the comment would have been better placed in a blog, I still wanted to share it here.
Everyday usability: 10/10
Feel-good factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 5/10
Price/performance: 5/10
Packaging/bottling: 9/10
Idea + implementation: 1/10
Similar fragrances: Versace PH, Dylan Blue, Invictus, Invictus Aqua, among others.
Actually, I don't want to engage in such a discussion level, as I don't really relate to the categorization of niche/mainstream, but a statement about this fragrance has made me reflect.
Have I, after all these years at Parfumo, become a niche snob?!
I associate a niche snob with someone who inherently finds niche fragrances better than mainstream ones, so my judgment would be more of a no. Do I sometimes let myself be dazzled by beautiful packaging? Yes, that happens. But that is absolutely human and can be found in every area of life... women, cars, clothes... so why not also with perfumes?!
In the last 3 weeks, I have had an interesting experience. For various reasons, I haven't been spending as much time on Parfumo and have really gotten fed up with constantly testing, evaluating, categorizing scents, etc. I didn't have a single (niche) fragrance sample on hand, and then with the last fragrance package, I received a sample of Percival, the new fragrance from Parfums de Marly.
I immediately dismissed it with a statement, something like "drugstore discount item in niche clothing," because I just don't like those shower gel scents; the Versace PHs, Invictus Aquas, and the like are simply not my world, even though I came from that background in 2013, before I signed up at Parfumo.
Nevertheless, I gave Percival significantly more chances than the comparable fragrances in this scent direction, which I always waved off at Müller/Douglas. And yes... I liked Percival more and more, day by day, even though the scent experience somehow felt very familiar to me, without finding a 100% match; they all seemed somewhat similar yet different. What exactly? No idea, but the fragrance in its spicy freshness and light sweetness somehow appeals to me. Have I already fallen for the niche disguise? I do believe that the brand and the bottle generally influence me in a way that makes me more inclined to view it favorably, equating the price and the heavy bottle with value and quality. I am honest with myself; I can't completely rule it out in this case... and not with other fragrances (anymore) either. I just noticed over the weeks of abstinence that the less niche fragrances I tested, the less I read about them here (daily), the less I focused on perfume, becoming more of a daily user (without much thought) than an obsessive collector who scrutinizes, dissects, analyzes, and compares fragrances from 100 angles, always searching for the best scent in each category, the more fun I found in such fragrances again, simply wearing them without much fuss and without rising white smoke, just like in the past when it was only about smelling good, at least for me.
I would have liked to find more characterful fragrances over the years for myself. They fascinate me and would better correspond to my self-understanding, or so I thought, but I won't be happy with them in the long run; they just don't suit me, they don't create a feel-good aura around me, they only give me a hint of exclusivity, the feeling of holding something special in my hand, which had somehow been "important" to me for a long time, now I wonder why!?
I could have written these sentences about many fragrances and brands, but only Percival has brought this to the surface, holding up a mirror to me. The second-to-last Lost Cherry comment just confirmed it for me. I love niche fragrances; I have just worn them for far too long for the wrong reasons. Percival, through its clever disguise, has paved the way "back" for me to carefree enjoyment, and that's how it should be, but there will never be a black-and-white world for me, just a trust-in-my-own-nose.
Percival lasts exceptionally well, 8-9 hours without any problems, which is quite a statement for a so-called fresh scent; the sillage is above average.
I simply love its fruity freshness, somewhat aquatic yet somehow not, herb-spicy and lightly woody from the heart note.
Anyone looking for an uncomplicated feel-good fragrance, who wants to smell freshly showered and well-groomed, will find it here. I am also completely honest here; I certainly wouldn't have bought it at the retail price of €200, but online you can get it for about 45% less, so it worked for me.
Even though the comment would have been better placed in a blog, I still wanted to share it here.
Everyday usability: 10/10
Feel-good factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 5/10
Price/performance: 5/10
Packaging/bottling: 9/10
Idea + implementation: 1/10
Similar fragrances: Versace PH, Dylan Blue, Invictus, Invictus Aqua, among others.
20 Comments
Translated · Show original
Oh oh Magnificent
Oh, oh
Only love, only love can leave such a mark
But only love, only love can heal such a scar
Oh, oh Magnificent
The lines from the wonderful U2 song fit this amazing fragrance very well.
Magnificent Gold is truly a protector, a cocooner, a scent that sends a delightful shiver down your spine. Here, after what feels like an endless summer, the first white layer of the year is forming. Incredible... just last week it was T-shirt weather, and now I need to quickly get my down jacket out of storage. My brain can’t quite process “the white” out there yet and first lowers my serotonin levels completely, releasing an extra dose of melatonin. That’s when MG comes in just right!
The scent radiates, shining extremely at the beginning, a golden vanilla bathed in light, more real pod than baking pouch, combined with a fine rum note, glowing gold-brown, both so incredibly well balanced that my heart starts to beat a few beats faster, warmed through.
Noble vanilla and rum - wasn’t there something? - yes, it does remind one of Spiritueuse Double Vanille, and the quality is such that no paper can fit in between, the subtle freshness in the background also reminds of Guerlain’s masterpiece. However, with MG there is also a subtle amber note in the background, often vanilla-honey-sweet, sometimes with a slightly sweaty note, here glowing golden, very subtly reminiscent of the “fossil amber” from SHL, although not quite the same quality.
The slightly dry wood note (could be guaiac wood) in the background is also very pleasing for rounding out and providing a slight contrast, even though MG has already become very calm and subtle in this fragrance phase (after about 45-50 minutes). SDV for me only smelled of vanilla from the heart note onwards, not on my own wrist, but when standing in the sillage of another person. MG justifies its existence solely through the wonderful, soft, cozy scent blanket in the base. Potpourris, open fireplaces, angora underwear, underfloor heating, or hot water bottles can be safely forgotten; the scent is more than enough.
Conclusion: A truly great fragrance, wonderful, heartwarming, high-quality, but also with a subtle similarity to the house's own Velours, the bases do resemble each other a bit. The longevity is good but not outstanding, the sillage is only strong in the first hour, which is completely sufficient for this fragrance direction, as the nose's habituation effect with vanilla tends to occur rather quickly.
Everyday suitability: 8/10
Comfort factor: 9.5/10
Wow effect: 9/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Packaging/bottling: 9/10
Idea + implementation: 9.5/10
Only love, only love can leave such a mark
But only love, only love can heal such a scar
Oh, oh Magnificent
The lines from the wonderful U2 song fit this amazing fragrance very well.
Magnificent Gold is truly a protector, a cocooner, a scent that sends a delightful shiver down your spine. Here, after what feels like an endless summer, the first white layer of the year is forming. Incredible... just last week it was T-shirt weather, and now I need to quickly get my down jacket out of storage. My brain can’t quite process “the white” out there yet and first lowers my serotonin levels completely, releasing an extra dose of melatonin. That’s when MG comes in just right!
The scent radiates, shining extremely at the beginning, a golden vanilla bathed in light, more real pod than baking pouch, combined with a fine rum note, glowing gold-brown, both so incredibly well balanced that my heart starts to beat a few beats faster, warmed through.
Noble vanilla and rum - wasn’t there something? - yes, it does remind one of Spiritueuse Double Vanille, and the quality is such that no paper can fit in between, the subtle freshness in the background also reminds of Guerlain’s masterpiece. However, with MG there is also a subtle amber note in the background, often vanilla-honey-sweet, sometimes with a slightly sweaty note, here glowing golden, very subtly reminiscent of the “fossil amber” from SHL, although not quite the same quality.
The slightly dry wood note (could be guaiac wood) in the background is also very pleasing for rounding out and providing a slight contrast, even though MG has already become very calm and subtle in this fragrance phase (after about 45-50 minutes). SDV for me only smelled of vanilla from the heart note onwards, not on my own wrist, but when standing in the sillage of another person. MG justifies its existence solely through the wonderful, soft, cozy scent blanket in the base. Potpourris, open fireplaces, angora underwear, underfloor heating, or hot water bottles can be safely forgotten; the scent is more than enough.
Conclusion: A truly great fragrance, wonderful, heartwarming, high-quality, but also with a subtle similarity to the house's own Velours, the bases do resemble each other a bit. The longevity is good but not outstanding, the sillage is only strong in the first hour, which is completely sufficient for this fragrance direction, as the nose's habituation effect with vanilla tends to occur rather quickly.
Everyday suitability: 8/10
Comfort factor: 9.5/10
Wow effect: 9/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Packaging/bottling: 9/10
Idea + implementation: 9.5/10
7 Comments
Translated · Show original
The only mistake is its name!
Sure, I would have preferred a stronger version of Fahrenheit EDT (current version), but that will probably remain an unfulfilled dream. Or at least a "fuller" or "rounder" edition of the EDT would certainly have become a classic.
I admit, I already knew in advance that it has nothing to do with the original scent, so I was of course not negatively surprised.
Because if you put the name aside, you get a wonderful autumn and winter fragrance.
Sure, you can smell the "famous" violets, especially since I always associate violets with Fahrenheit. I felt the same way with Venice pour Homme, but I couldn't achieve that with Steampunk. What characterized the typical Fahrenheit has been significantly diluted here, almost like the Aqua version mixed with Fahrenheit32. There's also a good portion of Absolute in play here. But the heart of the fragrance is clearly myrrh, which is used in a green-spicy, slightly smoky, and lightly vanilla-tinged manner. It's staged as beautifully as in Armani's Myrrhe Imperiale, which doesn't compromise on quality.
This results in a wonderfully warm and enveloping scent, which, although not for Kelly Family fans, evokes a sensual and cozy feeling.
Not an ultra-sweet gourmand, not sticky-sweet, but the gas station has had to close down by now.
Above it all, the spirit, the soul of the original Fahrenheit still lingers lightly, but you really have to sniff closely. If that's too little (understandable), you can always take 1-2 sprays of the EDT, then it tips into the more masculine side. But even without EDT assistance, this is not a bubblegum scent, as the vanilla does not come through as strongly as feared, never dominates the fragrance, and still shows enough masculine edge.
Okay, I admit, next to the original Fahrenheit, many fragrances seem a bit pink...
For me, it's still manly enough; I feel completely comfortable with it. Sometimes it can be a bit softer; if not, the EDT helps a little.
Conclusion: Great, independent fragrance with very nice myrrh accents, a hint of leather, and a touch of fresh spiciness on top!
The longevity and sillage are above average, but no one will be overwhelmed!
Everyday suitability: 8/10
Comfort factor: 9/10 (Autumn/Winter)
Wow effect: 6/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Packaging/bottling: 8/10
Idea + implementation: 1/10
I admit, I already knew in advance that it has nothing to do with the original scent, so I was of course not negatively surprised.
Because if you put the name aside, you get a wonderful autumn and winter fragrance.
Sure, you can smell the "famous" violets, especially since I always associate violets with Fahrenheit. I felt the same way with Venice pour Homme, but I couldn't achieve that with Steampunk. What characterized the typical Fahrenheit has been significantly diluted here, almost like the Aqua version mixed with Fahrenheit32. There's also a good portion of Absolute in play here. But the heart of the fragrance is clearly myrrh, which is used in a green-spicy, slightly smoky, and lightly vanilla-tinged manner. It's staged as beautifully as in Armani's Myrrhe Imperiale, which doesn't compromise on quality.
This results in a wonderfully warm and enveloping scent, which, although not for Kelly Family fans, evokes a sensual and cozy feeling.
Not an ultra-sweet gourmand, not sticky-sweet, but the gas station has had to close down by now.
Above it all, the spirit, the soul of the original Fahrenheit still lingers lightly, but you really have to sniff closely. If that's too little (understandable), you can always take 1-2 sprays of the EDT, then it tips into the more masculine side. But even without EDT assistance, this is not a bubblegum scent, as the vanilla does not come through as strongly as feared, never dominates the fragrance, and still shows enough masculine edge.
Okay, I admit, next to the original Fahrenheit, many fragrances seem a bit pink...
For me, it's still manly enough; I feel completely comfortable with it. Sometimes it can be a bit softer; if not, the EDT helps a little.
Conclusion: Great, independent fragrance with very nice myrrh accents, a hint of leather, and a touch of fresh spiciness on top!
The longevity and sillage are above average, but no one will be overwhelmed!
Everyday suitability: 8/10
Comfort factor: 9/10 (Autumn/Winter)
Wow effect: 6/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Packaging/bottling: 8/10
Idea + implementation: 1/10
6 Comments
Translated · Show original
Voyeurism is in all of us, just not in this scent!
My father always brought back apricot liqueur and 80-proof rum from skiing in Austria. Voyeurisme by Nimere reminds me exactly of a mix of both. The fruity sweetness of mirabelles and apricots meets a sweet-spicy, alcoholic note. At first, it smells extremely aromatic and intense, the warmth of the scent immediately jumps over, creating a totally cozy feeling that sets in quickly. Over time, it would probably be too sweet-fruity, too monotonous, too exhausting for me. But after a short time, Voyeurisme becomes dark-spicy, yes, even a bit smoky. For me, there is a suede-leather note present that makes it a fully-fledged fragrance. I can't detect anything scratchy or animalistic, rather it is buttery soft and wonderfully blending. Overall, the scent feels very rounded and balanced to me, tending to be a fine cuddler and dreamer rather than a voyeur, yet I still find it slightly sexy; for that, it should definitely be much colder outside.
Not a scent for work or going out, more for sensual hours too far...best in front of an open fireplace in a snow-covered ski lodge.
The longevity is extremely good at over 8 hours, the sillage is strong but not exaggerated.
Everyday suitability: 5/10
Comfort factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 8/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Packaging/bottling: 6/10
Idea + implementation: 3/10
Not a scent for work or going out, more for sensual hours too far...best in front of an open fireplace in a snow-covered ski lodge.
The longevity is extremely good at over 8 hours, the sillage is strong but not exaggerated.
Everyday suitability: 5/10
Comfort factor: 9/10
Wow effect: 8/10
Price/performance: 7/10
Packaging/bottling: 6/10
Idea + implementation: 3/10
5 Comments
Translated · Show original
Grayer than gray
Are you gray?
Are you even mouse gray?
Is household dust a splash of color in your home?
Was Gris Clair too bright for you?
Is understatement still too “loud” for you?
Are you a teacher, accountant, or working in pathology?
Is November your favorite month?
Is fog like sunshine to you?
Are perfumeries the gateway to hell for you?
Is Sebamed still too strong for you?
Do you think sillage is only for extroverts and weirdos?
Do you enjoy watching live broadcasts from locomotives on Phoenix?
Would Tipp-Ex give your face a bit of color?
Are you the chairman of the Sudoku club in your town?
Is your favorite hobby anything with Excel spreadsheets?
Are you 40 but look like 70?
Does the weekend only disturb your beautiful workweek?
Is grout your life elixir?
Did you get kicked out of the stamp club for being too “restless”?
Do you like to wave from highway bridges?
Are elephants too colorful for you?
Do you think it’s great when your white T-shirts finally have a gray tint?
Does no one in the office notice if you were there today or when you left?
Were you always the last one chosen for school teams?
When you stand in front of a grout line in the bathroom, are you overlooked?
Are you GRAUsam?
Do you come from Graubünden or alternatively from Osnabrück?
Do you love your own snoring?
Is “Biedermann” a compliment for you?
The only one who listens to you is your gray-haired dachshund?
Then finally take Romeo from Il Profumo and you practically have a
invisibility cloak, which salespeople in Media Markt have long perfected, now you can spray it on, no one will ever approach you again, no matter where. So what are you waiting for? It’s probably available on the gray market too...
The scent: A boring, aftershave-like scent, without charm and without pep, alcoholic and pale-spicy, a lavender sachet from the health food store is more exciting.
Are you even mouse gray?
Is household dust a splash of color in your home?
Was Gris Clair too bright for you?
Is understatement still too “loud” for you?
Are you a teacher, accountant, or working in pathology?
Is November your favorite month?
Is fog like sunshine to you?
Are perfumeries the gateway to hell for you?
Is Sebamed still too strong for you?
Do you think sillage is only for extroverts and weirdos?
Do you enjoy watching live broadcasts from locomotives on Phoenix?
Would Tipp-Ex give your face a bit of color?
Are you the chairman of the Sudoku club in your town?
Is your favorite hobby anything with Excel spreadsheets?
Are you 40 but look like 70?
Does the weekend only disturb your beautiful workweek?
Is grout your life elixir?
Did you get kicked out of the stamp club for being too “restless”?
Do you like to wave from highway bridges?
Are elephants too colorful for you?
Do you think it’s great when your white T-shirts finally have a gray tint?
Does no one in the office notice if you were there today or when you left?
Were you always the last one chosen for school teams?
When you stand in front of a grout line in the bathroom, are you overlooked?
Are you GRAUsam?
Do you come from Graubünden or alternatively from Osnabrück?
Do you love your own snoring?
Is “Biedermann” a compliment for you?
The only one who listens to you is your gray-haired dachshund?
Then finally take Romeo from Il Profumo and you practically have a
invisibility cloak, which salespeople in Media Markt have long perfected, now you can spray it on, no one will ever approach you again, no matter where. So what are you waiting for? It’s probably available on the gray market too...
The scent: A boring, aftershave-like scent, without charm and without pep, alcoholic and pale-spicy, a lavender sachet from the health food store is more exciting.
10 Comments
