Deimos

Ginepro Nero - a fragrance from the nature-oriented brand L'Erbolario based in Northern Italy - is for me an example that one can always find small, hidden treasures that sometimes fall (too) quickly into the category of "smelled that before" and then unfortunately often disappear under the radar. In the case of Ginepro Nero, this is especially true because the general fragrance direction it is often compared to was paved by a more or less iconic hype of the 2000s - Terre d'Hermès. However, I would like to take this opportunity to describe why I believe Ginepro Nero is a valuable interpretation of the theme with an interesting character.

If one wants to derive the Italian fragrance in the matte black bottle from more well-known scents, one can imagine Ginepro Nero in a triangle, with the outer points formed by Terre d'Hermès EdT, Terre d'Hermès Parfum, and Montale Red Vetiver. Generally, one could say that Ginepro Nero leans a bit more towards the Hermès side and is somewhat closer to Terre d'Hermès Parfum; however, that would not capture the full picture. When considering the fragrance in a more nuanced way, one can sense individual elements of Hermès' EdT, which are oriented towards the deeper base tone of the perfume and have been implemented with somewhat more moderate, rugged citrus notes that tend towards the Montale direction. After this very rough classification based on the mentioned references, I would like to emphasize that L'Erbolario has not produced a scented equivalent to Dolly the (clone) sheep, but rather an independent fragrance that shows it follows a well-founded concept and has been crafted with dedication.

For those unfamiliar with the aforementioned fragrances, the citrus notes should not be imagined as a typical, citrus-fresh scent. The bitter orange is flanked by grapefruit peel and forms a rather rugged citrus component in conjunction with bergamot, which is skillfully woven together with the other fragrance types. In the heart note, the juniper berry is particularly present, but without playing a solo role. The cedar seamlessly transitions into the overall woody composition, linking it to the natural vetiver in the base note, which, along with subtle oak moss and a hint of patchouli, adds green and earthy tones without coming across as musty. The image of deep, resinous notes is completed by elemi resin and benzoin, rounded off by moderately balanced pepper that contributes to the overall fresh-spicy elements.

Measured against a realistic expectation, the quality of the blend is remarkable. While L'Erbolario's Ginepro Nero does not quite reach what the high-priced niche can sometimes achieve, it clearly leaves behind the often somewhat loveless average performances that some renowned designers manage. For a fragrance in this segment, I am (very) positively surprised.

In the end, we have a dark-tinged, woody-citrus juniper scent with depth and character. Since the "dark" aspects of fragrances are often somewhat subjective and usually hard to describe, I try to express my associations as vividly as possible. To be precise, the somewhat darker aspects of Ginepro Nero do not strike me as oppressively dark, but rather like diffuse light in a slightly darker scene, laying like a protective cloak over the silhouettes of the surroundings. However, not cold and not in pale white, but rather a bit warmer and in soft tones of terracotta and brick red. I like it very much.

PS: Lastly, a hopefully objective note that the fragrance may not meet everyone's expectations. Demographically speaking, I would say it tends to be more of an Ü30 fragrance (though it could likely also be worn in one's mid-20s). Those who already have the complete Hermès portfolio on their shelf may not necessarily need Ginepro Nero, and those who could find nothing appealing in the fragrance direction and the general Terre d'Hermès "vibe" might be able to skip it.

Personally, I really like the fragrance :)

G. Bellini X-Bolt is a fragrance that caught my attention some time ago in connection with Boss Bottled (which it is said to copy well). This comment is primarily a comparison of the two fragrances.

I am referring exclusively to the samples available to me (G. Bellini X-Bolt batch no. 2146 and Boss Bottled batch no. 5293) and my subjective perception of both fragrances. All descriptions are meant to be comparative (relative to each other), so please do not misunderstand this as a context-free "review" with absolute statements.

The opening of X-Bolt strikes me as somewhat spicier and has a slightly woody note that, from my subjective feeling, almost carries the "vibe" of a slightly smoky nuance. This interplay feels overall a bit rough and somewhat scratchy - I find Boss Bottled to be significantly softer and rounder at this point. The fruity aspect comes across as somewhat less clear than in the opening of Boss Bottled. X-Bolt also seems a bit more synthetic in comparison.

During the first, immediate "drydown" phase, X-Bolt appears overall a bit flatter and somewhat less fruity. It’s as if you have two different prints of the same image in front of you - the parallels are there, but one of the prints is a bit blurrier and the colors are somewhat paler. At this point, X-Bolt seems to already have the sweetly appearing vanilla briefly sandy and soft emerging from the base notes. In Boss Bottled, the top and heart notes are too present for the base to be discernible on its own yet. Overall, X-Bolt still feels a bit more synthetic.

As the "drydown" progresses, I noticed something that, while not immediately affecting the overall impression of the fragrance at this time, I would like to mention for the sake of detail. The sandy soft aspect of the vanilla, which I had already noticed before, partially disappears again; the sweetness of the vanilla recedes somewhat more into the background and, in the meantime, almost takes on a slightly creamy but also flat undertone. Such a change in vanilla, even if it is not initially very significant, feels somewhat unusual to me at this point and in this specific form. I see it at least as an indication that the quality of the individual components of X-Bolt (commensurate with the price) differs from those of Boss Bottled. A bit later, there begins a gradual loss of the fruity elements of X-Bolt (I want to refer again to the above-mentioned comparison with the two prints), while the slightly synthetic effect remains unchanged and thus subjectively increases. It is a gradual process that one might not notice immediately, but is evident in direct comparison. By now, X-Bolt loses a bit more of its similarity to Boss Bottled.

The opening and the first, immediate "drydown" last only briefly and pass relatively quickly. To me, the progression feels less like the respective transition is intentionally designed by the composition, but rather that individual fragrance notes simply fade or diminish over time.

In summary, I would say that X-Bolt comes close to Boss Bottled at times - except for a certain distance - but never represents an authentic copy. There may be production batches that are more similar, but I do not know that and therefore cannot comment on it. For the two samples I tested, I cannot confirm the often-mentioned, extremely large similarity of the two fragrances.

I do not want to give a detailed evaluation for X-Bolt at this point, as I focused mainly on a comparison, but I am subjectively of the opinion that there is at least one point of difference between the two fragrances.

Dark and fresh, unconventional and (very) green, a recommendation for testing and a warning for blind purchases at the same time, this is how the fragrance can be roughly outlined in one sentence.

To describe Encre Noire "Sport" more closely, I would like to preface that I find a breakdown of the scent notes somewhat misleading. It is better described with an image that consists of three interlocking parts:

Forest, possibly a mixed forest, but definitely not a coniferous forest. The forest is not *overly* dense, but one is far enough inside that the predominant shade and the atmosphere created by it during the day is distinctly noticeable. The temperature is balanced, not too warm due to the surroundings, but also not cold. In the temperate, Central European climate, perhaps spring or autumn. It has just rained, but the rain has since stopped. The air is clear, the ground is not really wet, but noticeably damp. A nuance of a background-mixing category of woody, fresh, and "earthy." Additionally, there is an indirect, rather subtle influence from a clear body of water nearby. Perhaps a small, meandering stream, or maybe a small lake with a steady inflow and outflow. The effect is not directly aquatic. It is more of an abstract impression of fresh air and clear water that complements the dark green at the narrow shore area. This is the first part of the image and makes up about 2/5 of the whole.

Next comes freshly cut, juicy grass. However, if one thinks of a typical mowed lawn, one is already slightly off. I find the abstract idea of an unnaturally thick blade of grass, almost as thick as a small tree trunk, whose fresh cut surface resembles a small tree stump in front of you, to be more accurate. Perhaps this description is somewhat unusual, but not more unusual than the somewhat unique "green" of this fragrance. I suspect (speculation) that cypress and vetiver overlap in such a way that their interplay creates a very own "green." Perhaps I lack a deeper experience with these specific scent notes, or I have difficulty smelling this particular accord in more detail; it may also simply be a very exceptional "blend" from the perfumer in this specific regard. In any case, I do not know of any other fragrance that captures this "green" in a comparable way. This is the second part of the image and also makes up about 2/5 of the whole.

The third part consists simply of a comparatively "soft" grapefruit scent note. It is sometimes more, sometimes less pronounced, but never overpowering in the foreground and has largely integrated bergamot within it. It is a slightly citrusy fruity note, which is primarily fresh and - always in interaction with the other parts - makes up about 1/5 of the whole.

In summary, the fragrance is dark and fresh, but also (very) green. The "blend" is exceptional (this is meant neutrally) and categorizing it into typical categories works best by the process of elimination. Immediately offering it as the first, "drawer-like" choice - because it fits so *perfectly* - Encre Noire "Sport" never really does, but earns (its) possible place by the fact that the composition distinguishes itself from competitors through its individual character. Therefore, I deducted half a point in my rating due to slightly limited "wearability" (very generally speaking), which one may gladly add back if one enjoys such fragrances.