Elysium
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Elysium
A Stone Thrown On A Glass Window
Revolution Beauty is a brand that has now been on the market for 10 years, perhaps still little known and undervalued, which has recently also been spreading in Italy. I came across their products yesterday, by chance, while I was walking around the OVS store. The attractive packaging of perfumes classified as masculine immediately caught my attention. There were six testers in the display, the bottles were all similar and showed translucent, opaque, shaded and mirrored colours, with a magnetic cap, and the olfactory pyramid was shown on each box. I smelled them all, and it didn’t take me long to realize that I was dealing with fragrances inspired by designer or niche fragrances. Three of them, however, particularly impressed me, namely "Revolution Man - Transcendent | Revolution", "Revolution Man - Limitless Noir | Revolution" , and Carbon Pulse. And it is precisely about the latter that I want to tell you something. It is interesting how smells and accords that in nature may seem unpleasant, when reconstructed within a perfume can be intriguing and pleasant. So it happens that a fragrance described as musky, wet concrete ends up liking you again and again. This is Carbon Pulse. Very unique, very peppery and very mineral. It is like a stone thrown at a glass window that leaves a huge hole and shatters the window glass into a thousand pieces. This is the image I associate with the explosiveness of this perfume.
Carbon Pulse belongs to that genre of mineral, earthy, organic perfumes, and as soon as it is sprayed, it releases a powerful mineral, cold, and peppery accord that recalls the smell of crushed stones and gunpowder. It’s very similar to that smell you smell on clothes in winter when the air is dry, and when you enter the house you get that “crisp air” sensation. The sour, citrus, bright and pungent notes of bergamot and ginger are weak, while Sichuan pepper, known for its very aromatic smell, dominates the opening with its characteristic citric note of musky lemon, creating a sort of chiaroscuro. In the background, you can perceive a smoky and resinous accord, like that of a now extinguished bonfire. At first glance, it reminds me of perfumes like "Solitaire (Eau de Parfum) | Al Haramain / الحرمين" and "For Him (Eau de Toilette) | Narciso Rodriguez", due to the dominant mix of musk, patchouli, and ambergris, similar vibrations but distant from each other. It is clear that the perfume is polarizing, the introduction is dissonant from the classic citrus fruits, and if you prefer the gourmand vanilla genre, this is not for you.
Entering the central phase, among the various spices, the slightly sweaty smell of cumin stands out to my nose, not annoying, or repugnant, or revolting, but perceivable if you smell the perfume up close. That dusty but not powdery accord continues undaunted, always dirty and smoky, which gradually becomes enriched with greenish tones. Pink pepper sits back while jasmine, and perhaps other fleshy and indolic white flowers, create a dark floral nuance, not excessive and kept at bay by a virile galbanum, very sensual without approaching the threshold that separates the feminine universe. Furthermore, the similarity with Narciso For Him is also increasingly marked, especially in the note of earthy vegetal moss, but what separates them is the absence of the note of violet leaves.
In the base, I smell oakmoss, coumarin, a gorgeous blend of musks with a touch of patchouli. The ebony wood is smooth, and a delicate sweetness emerges. Of course, Carbon Pulse has some leathery nuances, but most of all it has a stone-like scent. The ash-like shade is still lingering in the air, every present, and the trail has a dirty, earthy, yet dry spicy vibe to it. The cedar and sandalwoods here release a smell akin to that one of "Santal 33 (Eau de Parfum) | Le Labo" . If I smell inside the box, where I sprayed a few spritz hours ago, I get the smokiness of burnt charcoal and wood chunks.
It's harsh, very dark, super masculine and smells like hell. The opening is really promising, although the longevity, projection and sillage ultimately lead to the skin scent of this fragrance. It’s more a question of olfactory tiredness because the people who cross my path tell me that I smell good even after a few hours, and ask me what perfume I’m wearing. Woods, damp ground on a gloomy day and mineral pepper with a subtle sweetness are what I get most of. Carbon Pulse differs from other modern versions and is not intended for everyone. Its smoky shades adapt well to an autumn and winter climate, best if worn for evening and night events. I must admit that Carbon Pulse positively surprised me and that I never expected this kind of perfume on a shelf in a store that sells clothing at affordable prices. If you like dark, mysterious and classy perfumes you should try this.
I'm basing my feelings on a bottle I've owned since March 2024.
-Elysium
Carbon Pulse belongs to that genre of mineral, earthy, organic perfumes, and as soon as it is sprayed, it releases a powerful mineral, cold, and peppery accord that recalls the smell of crushed stones and gunpowder. It’s very similar to that smell you smell on clothes in winter when the air is dry, and when you enter the house you get that “crisp air” sensation. The sour, citrus, bright and pungent notes of bergamot and ginger are weak, while Sichuan pepper, known for its very aromatic smell, dominates the opening with its characteristic citric note of musky lemon, creating a sort of chiaroscuro. In the background, you can perceive a smoky and resinous accord, like that of a now extinguished bonfire. At first glance, it reminds me of perfumes like "Solitaire (Eau de Parfum) | Al Haramain / الحرمين" and "For Him (Eau de Toilette) | Narciso Rodriguez", due to the dominant mix of musk, patchouli, and ambergris, similar vibrations but distant from each other. It is clear that the perfume is polarizing, the introduction is dissonant from the classic citrus fruits, and if you prefer the gourmand vanilla genre, this is not for you.
Entering the central phase, among the various spices, the slightly sweaty smell of cumin stands out to my nose, not annoying, or repugnant, or revolting, but perceivable if you smell the perfume up close. That dusty but not powdery accord continues undaunted, always dirty and smoky, which gradually becomes enriched with greenish tones. Pink pepper sits back while jasmine, and perhaps other fleshy and indolic white flowers, create a dark floral nuance, not excessive and kept at bay by a virile galbanum, very sensual without approaching the threshold that separates the feminine universe. Furthermore, the similarity with Narciso For Him is also increasingly marked, especially in the note of earthy vegetal moss, but what separates them is the absence of the note of violet leaves.
In the base, I smell oakmoss, coumarin, a gorgeous blend of musks with a touch of patchouli. The ebony wood is smooth, and a delicate sweetness emerges. Of course, Carbon Pulse has some leathery nuances, but most of all it has a stone-like scent. The ash-like shade is still lingering in the air, every present, and the trail has a dirty, earthy, yet dry spicy vibe to it. The cedar and sandalwoods here release a smell akin to that one of "Santal 33 (Eau de Parfum) | Le Labo" . If I smell inside the box, where I sprayed a few spritz hours ago, I get the smokiness of burnt charcoal and wood chunks.
It's harsh, very dark, super masculine and smells like hell. The opening is really promising, although the longevity, projection and sillage ultimately lead to the skin scent of this fragrance. It’s more a question of olfactory tiredness because the people who cross my path tell me that I smell good even after a few hours, and ask me what perfume I’m wearing. Woods, damp ground on a gloomy day and mineral pepper with a subtle sweetness are what I get most of. Carbon Pulse differs from other modern versions and is not intended for everyone. Its smoky shades adapt well to an autumn and winter climate, best if worn for evening and night events. I must admit that Carbon Pulse positively surprised me and that I never expected this kind of perfume on a shelf in a store that sells clothing at affordable prices. If you like dark, mysterious and classy perfumes you should try this.
I'm basing my feelings on a bottle I've owned since March 2024.
-Elysium
Sizzling Arabian Desert’s Nights
I have been wandering around this fragrance for some time, which is not accessible in all stores, and finally last Sunday I got it in my hands. For some bizarre reason, ZARA decided to call this piece from the Sensitive Metallics collection Mystical Metal, but honestly, I don’t find any connection with metals. Some people write it smells very similar to "Tuscan Leather (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford". Far away from judging their opinion, I find Mystical Metal to be a softer leathery fragrance, with a hint of woody leather that changes throughout the progression. They certainly give off the same vibes and the same profiles. The combination of raspberry and leather helps, but this is much gentler than Tuscan Leather.
It comes out of the sprayer with a noticeably fresh blend of bittersweet raspberry and mild leather supported by a tinge of spiciness and muskiness. The red fruits are everything but sweet. Slowly, the raspberry tones down and the suede takes over a bite more. A surprising and unexpected opening; I was expecting something ozonic, airy, and metallic, but no. I am wrapped in inviting woodsy leather with delicate fruity scents.
Entering the next phase of the perfume, we find a hibiscus that gives a strong acrid smell with a tinge of pomegranate. If you are familiar with hibiscus herbal infusion, also referred to as roselle, flor de Jamaica in Latin America, karkadé in Egypt and Sudan, you should recognize those astringent and acidic notes typical of dried hibiscus flowers. A not-too-high-pitched saffron contrasts the acidic cranberry-like flavour part. A veil of powdery accord is perceived between the acidic notes of hibiscus and the spicier ones of saffron. This is thanks to the alfa-isometil ionone molecule, which here expresses the more powdery aspects of the iris and less watery aspects of violet.
Despite the presence of coumarins, which add that touch of spicy and non-gourmand vanilla, the dominant accord is that of leather, or rather suede, softer, warmer, velvety, delicate, and non-animal. That dusty, powdery shade that emerged in the heart remains present, now combined with refined leather and earthy musk. After many hours, a semi-sweet, fruity and powdery trail remains, with the tones of raspberry and iris still recognizable in the shadow. I would like to point out that iris and vanilla here, although subtle, make all the difference, along with the smooth leather that never turns too harsh or animalic.
Similarly to "Gold Oddity | Zara" " the duration and projection are satisfying, ensuring a constant presence without being overwhelming. Mystical Metal is a fragrance suitable for both day and evening, versatile for many occasions. It remains anchored to fabrics for days. It is healthy, and genderless, for all lovers of leathery perfumes, even for those like me who are more into animalic leathers. Although the notes and accords suggest that it is a perfume suitable for the colder months, I feel like wearing it in these first days of spring, and then daring to go out on some summer evenings. Is it worth it? For me, yes.
I formulate my feelings on a bottle I have owned since March 2024 (BC 33350).
-Elysium
It comes out of the sprayer with a noticeably fresh blend of bittersweet raspberry and mild leather supported by a tinge of spiciness and muskiness. The red fruits are everything but sweet. Slowly, the raspberry tones down and the suede takes over a bite more. A surprising and unexpected opening; I was expecting something ozonic, airy, and metallic, but no. I am wrapped in inviting woodsy leather with delicate fruity scents.
Entering the next phase of the perfume, we find a hibiscus that gives a strong acrid smell with a tinge of pomegranate. If you are familiar with hibiscus herbal infusion, also referred to as roselle, flor de Jamaica in Latin America, karkadé in Egypt and Sudan, you should recognize those astringent and acidic notes typical of dried hibiscus flowers. A not-too-high-pitched saffron contrasts the acidic cranberry-like flavour part. A veil of powdery accord is perceived between the acidic notes of hibiscus and the spicier ones of saffron. This is thanks to the alfa-isometil ionone molecule, which here expresses the more powdery aspects of the iris and less watery aspects of violet.
Despite the presence of coumarins, which add that touch of spicy and non-gourmand vanilla, the dominant accord is that of leather, or rather suede, softer, warmer, velvety, delicate, and non-animal. That dusty, powdery shade that emerged in the heart remains present, now combined with refined leather and earthy musk. After many hours, a semi-sweet, fruity and powdery trail remains, with the tones of raspberry and iris still recognizable in the shadow. I would like to point out that iris and vanilla here, although subtle, make all the difference, along with the smooth leather that never turns too harsh or animalic.
Similarly to "Gold Oddity | Zara" " the duration and projection are satisfying, ensuring a constant presence without being overwhelming. Mystical Metal is a fragrance suitable for both day and evening, versatile for many occasions. It remains anchored to fabrics for days. It is healthy, and genderless, for all lovers of leathery perfumes, even for those like me who are more into animalic leathers. Although the notes and accords suggest that it is a perfume suitable for the colder months, I feel like wearing it in these first days of spring, and then daring to go out on some summer evenings. Is it worth it? For me, yes.
I formulate my feelings on a bottle I have owned since March 2024 (BC 33350).
-Elysium
An Ancient Ritual Of Purification
Patchouli Homme by Reminiscence is not the first or the only perfume centred on this polarizing ancient plant. And it won’t be the last either. A plethora of brands, both designer and niche, have at least one piece in their catalogue, monothemed or inspired by patchouli. And with Reminiscence, we find at least a handful of them which range between different concentrations and blends with other protagonist ingredients. While maintaining an almost similar DNA, this men’s version, in my perception, differs from the original, which has sweeter and more chocolatey notes. This, however, leans more towards mineral, dusty, woody and dirty accords. Naturally, both focused on the note of patchouli, this version enhances all the strong and sharp facets of this unique raw ingredient, which gives a powerful sensation of a dusty and leathery accord. It lacks that touch of sweetness that helps define it as an amber perfume, distancing it from gourmand territory. If you want to risk a blind purchase, keep in mind this thin line that separates the two fragrances.
Patchouli Homme is a non-linear fragrance that crosses citrus, balsamic, earthy, powdery, and resinous accords. It reveals itself with an intense sour citrus accord, mainly lemony, with a dirty and bitter undertone. There are hints of minty and balmy nuances, not exactly those of the mint plant, but more bitter and spicy akin to mugwort and cardamom. Perhaps it is coming from the patchouli itself, which belongs to the mint family, and some oils have a minty-woody undertone. The lime fruits are cut into slices; you can taste the oil from the peels and the juice from the pulp, and they combine with the chopped minty things, as in a non-alcoholic Mojito. If you’re familiar with the original "Patchouli | Réminiscence", this opening is slightly unexpected and unsettling. It is not as rich, palatable, vigorous, overbearing, pressing, or irritating. Patchouli Homme is cool, relaxing and comfortable. You might expect a dense, opulent, full-bodied departure, but nothing so celestial and refreshing. It confuses me, luckily in a good way. The more I analyze it, the more my desire to know its evolution grows. Do not assume this as a citrus scent, because the zesty aspect vanishes quite soon.
As the initial harshness fades, the scent of patchouli leaves mixed with those of geranium intensifies and takes shape, following the gestures of a propitiatory rite. Slowly the dark and dusty patchouli emerges from a purifying cedar wood tub, the acidic drops flow and dry, evaporating, until aromatic and soothing oils and talcum powders completely cover it. Dusty iris root and earthy patchouli leaves alternate in an enchanting aroma, rich in sensuality and delicacy, powdery but always confined to the masculine sphere, never similar to baby powder or too flowery. You perceive something rough, dusty like soil, or chalky like concrete. The flowers present in the formula are never cheeky and give the perfume that virility worthy of the name it bears. Despite having undergone a process of refinement, modern patchouli still displays many earthy facets, while the sticky, sweet, oily and gourmand notes are absent and leave room for odours that recall the roots of plants just uprooted from mother earth, dirty with moist, fresh soil. In the central part, to my nose, I can feel the powdery nuances of the iris together with the filthy ones of the patchouli, which partially hide the drier and woodier aspects of the cedar. Since I love both accords, I miss that touch of pencil shavings a little, without detracting from the beauty of this elixir.
After a long hover flight, landing manoeuvres begin, which induces a new mutation. The dry-down appears moderately sweet, more balmy, and warmer than the opening while maintaining the filthy aspects. The presence of a good number of resins, balsams, and labdanum gives the perfume a special charm with a leathery slant. Sweet benzoin and powdery musk are present in a beautiful balance, never overwhelming the other participants. In the end, patchouli and tonka bean will remain, sharing a beautiful amber composition with a pleasant, powdery, semi-soapy flavour. To some extent, iris, vanilla, tonka, and resins blend sometimes remind me of "Shalimar (Eau de Toilette) | Guerlain", which is a distinct perfume with just a few related vibes.
Patchouli Homme prefers the joys of autumn, the crisp breezes, the bright colours that change, the persistent smell of damp earth and the sweet melancholy of watching nature prepare to rest to face the freezing winter. Despite being recently reformulated, the performance is rewarding on clothes and paper strip. Alas, I cannot feel it on me for several hours, and the projection is not annoying or suffocating, but intimate and very close to the skin. You can wear it with no problems during the day, to go to the office, as well as for evening or night events. Perhaps it is my batch, and it does not scream. Ultimately, I bought it blindly since the tester was not available, relying on the original version and the stated notes. And I don’t regret the choice.
I’m basing my feelings on a bottle I’ve owned since March 2024. (BC G056, PD 2022-06).
-Elysium
P.S. I admit I'm a little confused about the performance. I had applied about ten sprays by late morning, and by the afternoon I no longer felt it. In the late afternoon, I went out on some errands and reapplied a handful of sprays on my clothes. Towards the evening, I met a friend I hadn't seen for years, and he unexpectedly said to me "Your perfume is so good, so delicate, what is it?" Maybe the scent isn't that faint, but I'm the one who becomes addicted to it in a short time.
Patchouli Homme is a non-linear fragrance that crosses citrus, balsamic, earthy, powdery, and resinous accords. It reveals itself with an intense sour citrus accord, mainly lemony, with a dirty and bitter undertone. There are hints of minty and balmy nuances, not exactly those of the mint plant, but more bitter and spicy akin to mugwort and cardamom. Perhaps it is coming from the patchouli itself, which belongs to the mint family, and some oils have a minty-woody undertone. The lime fruits are cut into slices; you can taste the oil from the peels and the juice from the pulp, and they combine with the chopped minty things, as in a non-alcoholic Mojito. If you’re familiar with the original "Patchouli | Réminiscence", this opening is slightly unexpected and unsettling. It is not as rich, palatable, vigorous, overbearing, pressing, or irritating. Patchouli Homme is cool, relaxing and comfortable. You might expect a dense, opulent, full-bodied departure, but nothing so celestial and refreshing. It confuses me, luckily in a good way. The more I analyze it, the more my desire to know its evolution grows. Do not assume this as a citrus scent, because the zesty aspect vanishes quite soon.
As the initial harshness fades, the scent of patchouli leaves mixed with those of geranium intensifies and takes shape, following the gestures of a propitiatory rite. Slowly the dark and dusty patchouli emerges from a purifying cedar wood tub, the acidic drops flow and dry, evaporating, until aromatic and soothing oils and talcum powders completely cover it. Dusty iris root and earthy patchouli leaves alternate in an enchanting aroma, rich in sensuality and delicacy, powdery but always confined to the masculine sphere, never similar to baby powder or too flowery. You perceive something rough, dusty like soil, or chalky like concrete. The flowers present in the formula are never cheeky and give the perfume that virility worthy of the name it bears. Despite having undergone a process of refinement, modern patchouli still displays many earthy facets, while the sticky, sweet, oily and gourmand notes are absent and leave room for odours that recall the roots of plants just uprooted from mother earth, dirty with moist, fresh soil. In the central part, to my nose, I can feel the powdery nuances of the iris together with the filthy ones of the patchouli, which partially hide the drier and woodier aspects of the cedar. Since I love both accords, I miss that touch of pencil shavings a little, without detracting from the beauty of this elixir.
After a long hover flight, landing manoeuvres begin, which induces a new mutation. The dry-down appears moderately sweet, more balmy, and warmer than the opening while maintaining the filthy aspects. The presence of a good number of resins, balsams, and labdanum gives the perfume a special charm with a leathery slant. Sweet benzoin and powdery musk are present in a beautiful balance, never overwhelming the other participants. In the end, patchouli and tonka bean will remain, sharing a beautiful amber composition with a pleasant, powdery, semi-soapy flavour. To some extent, iris, vanilla, tonka, and resins blend sometimes remind me of "Shalimar (Eau de Toilette) | Guerlain", which is a distinct perfume with just a few related vibes.
Patchouli Homme prefers the joys of autumn, the crisp breezes, the bright colours that change, the persistent smell of damp earth and the sweet melancholy of watching nature prepare to rest to face the freezing winter. Despite being recently reformulated, the performance is rewarding on clothes and paper strip. Alas, I cannot feel it on me for several hours, and the projection is not annoying or suffocating, but intimate and very close to the skin. You can wear it with no problems during the day, to go to the office, as well as for evening or night events. Perhaps it is my batch, and it does not scream. Ultimately, I bought it blindly since the tester was not available, relying on the original version and the stated notes. And I don’t regret the choice.
I’m basing my feelings on a bottle I’ve owned since March 2024. (BC G056, PD 2022-06).
-Elysium
P.S. I admit I'm a little confused about the performance. I had applied about ten sprays by late morning, and by the afternoon I no longer felt it. In the late afternoon, I went out on some errands and reapplied a handful of sprays on my clothes. Towards the evening, I met a friend I hadn't seen for years, and he unexpectedly said to me "Your perfume is so good, so delicate, what is it?" Maybe the scent isn't that faint, but I'm the one who becomes addicted to it in a short time.
Baby & Toddler Bath Toys
If I imagine something angelic, the purity, naivety and tenderness of a newborn comes to mind. “Baby Scent”, which is similar to the smell of dolls, smells of pure, good, baby skin, clean and talcum powder! Well, surely many of you have your eyes closed right now and are wandering in your memory in that dusty cloud that enveloped you as children? It’s a baby’s perfume, and it’s angelic. At the first test run, I had put this perfume aside, thinking that the presence of the almond aroma could create problems for me like its predecessor "Hypnotic Vanilla | Zara", which I purchased and returned. Too much resemblance to "Hypnotic Poison (Eau de Toilette) | Dior", which I struggle with. When I got home, the scent took on those fresh, dry, slightly powdery, nutty undertones, which I assume are due to the rice notes. From research, I found that rice is almost odourless, except for the aromatic Basmati and Thai Jasmine varieties. Don’t think that the latter smells like jasmine since its name is due to its pure white colour. Therefore, I assume that perfume oil from one of those varieties has been added to the Angelic Vanilla fragrance, which makes it wearable and different from Hypnotic Vanilla/Poison for me. Sometimes it’s fresh, it's boozy, it’s bitter, and it’s powdery, although it never becomes cloying. I bet this perfume is polarizing.
About Angelic Vanilla. At first, a gust of wind hits my face, quite alcoholic, tasting like soft rubber, talc and sake. I close my eyes, inhale and my mind flies to mini baby toys, soft animal bath companions, which delicately smell of talcum powder. It is a sensation that arouses powerful emotions, memories of childhood, of puppies, of newborns. You must like this aroma to fully appreciate the Angelic Vanilla scent, as it will be the common thread of the entire trip. The alcoholic accord of sake, or Chinese rice liquor, vanishes after a few moments, giving way to a delicate almond blossom mixed with a creamy bergamot zest. Delicate like rice powder and butter, without too much nuttiness or spiciness. The Almond tree is now in full bloom in Southern Italy. At least those that are found in sheltered places are, and it is a pleasure for the eyes and the senses. Their scent is subtle and sweet, similar to cherry blossoms.
Soon, Angelic Vanilla enters the heart phase and a hint of a rose emerges from a dark, tart background. However, it is not a dominant or pronounced rose, like the one we can find in the Chapter No.8 Rose collection. Instead, the rose is somewhat dimmed by the coalition of dusty rice and resinous myrrh. I like this myrrh, it’s not sugary and opulent as often happens in fragrances that use it. For example, I can’t stand the rich and sticky puffs of "Mirra | Tesori d'Oriente", it makes me feel nauseous. That starchy, angelic aura I go through could be the fruit of the rice starch, which I don’t think I have yet encountered in other fragrances I own or have tested. I’ve read that some people find it too strong and annoying, while I perceive it as pleasant on the nose, to my liking, intriguing and not at all disturbing. After an hour, the unsweetened myrrh pleasantly takes control.
In the end, coumarins come into play, maintaining a semi-sweet trail without invading the gourmand territory of cakes, puddings and biscuits. Likewise, the rice doesn’t smell like rice pudding. There is soft, warm wood, probably sandalwood or cedar. However, blond woods without smoky or leathery tones are soft and gentle. The dusty note of rice starch remains in the background, which is the signature of this perfume, along with nonsweet and musky tonka and vanilla.
Overall Angelic Vanilla is an intimate perfume, not at all brash or aggressive. Given the notes present, it should perform better, but both projection and longevity are below average on my skin. Let’s say it performs well for half a day, then it fades. It is healthy, and absolutely genderless, for all lovers of vanilla perfumes, and for those like me who don’t prefer gourmand vanillas. Furthermore, the powdery aspect I’ve highlighted several times is not what we get from the orris, for example, but something more sophisticated, dry, velvety, and starchy. Its freshness makes it ideal for the middle seasons, certainly autumn and spring, on winter days, but also on the cooler summer evenings.
Layering Tip: If you have "Mystic Rose | Zara" I suggest you try layering them. You will get a perfume poised between hell and heaven, the devil caressing holy water. A chiaroscuro rose, the result of the fusion of the two roses present in the original perfumes, with dirty, musky, bitter and powdery facets. I’ll call it Angelic Rose!
I’m expressing my opinion based on a bottle I’ve owned since February 2024 (BC 40162).
-Elysium
About Angelic Vanilla. At first, a gust of wind hits my face, quite alcoholic, tasting like soft rubber, talc and sake. I close my eyes, inhale and my mind flies to mini baby toys, soft animal bath companions, which delicately smell of talcum powder. It is a sensation that arouses powerful emotions, memories of childhood, of puppies, of newborns. You must like this aroma to fully appreciate the Angelic Vanilla scent, as it will be the common thread of the entire trip. The alcoholic accord of sake, or Chinese rice liquor, vanishes after a few moments, giving way to a delicate almond blossom mixed with a creamy bergamot zest. Delicate like rice powder and butter, without too much nuttiness or spiciness. The Almond tree is now in full bloom in Southern Italy. At least those that are found in sheltered places are, and it is a pleasure for the eyes and the senses. Their scent is subtle and sweet, similar to cherry blossoms.
Soon, Angelic Vanilla enters the heart phase and a hint of a rose emerges from a dark, tart background. However, it is not a dominant or pronounced rose, like the one we can find in the Chapter No.8 Rose collection. Instead, the rose is somewhat dimmed by the coalition of dusty rice and resinous myrrh. I like this myrrh, it’s not sugary and opulent as often happens in fragrances that use it. For example, I can’t stand the rich and sticky puffs of "Mirra | Tesori d'Oriente", it makes me feel nauseous. That starchy, angelic aura I go through could be the fruit of the rice starch, which I don’t think I have yet encountered in other fragrances I own or have tested. I’ve read that some people find it too strong and annoying, while I perceive it as pleasant on the nose, to my liking, intriguing and not at all disturbing. After an hour, the unsweetened myrrh pleasantly takes control.
In the end, coumarins come into play, maintaining a semi-sweet trail without invading the gourmand territory of cakes, puddings and biscuits. Likewise, the rice doesn’t smell like rice pudding. There is soft, warm wood, probably sandalwood or cedar. However, blond woods without smoky or leathery tones are soft and gentle. The dusty note of rice starch remains in the background, which is the signature of this perfume, along with nonsweet and musky tonka and vanilla.
Overall Angelic Vanilla is an intimate perfume, not at all brash or aggressive. Given the notes present, it should perform better, but both projection and longevity are below average on my skin. Let’s say it performs well for half a day, then it fades. It is healthy, and absolutely genderless, for all lovers of vanilla perfumes, and for those like me who don’t prefer gourmand vanillas. Furthermore, the powdery aspect I’ve highlighted several times is not what we get from the orris, for example, but something more sophisticated, dry, velvety, and starchy. Its freshness makes it ideal for the middle seasons, certainly autumn and spring, on winter days, but also on the cooler summer evenings.
Layering Tip: If you have "Mystic Rose | Zara" I suggest you try layering them. You will get a perfume poised between hell and heaven, the devil caressing holy water. A chiaroscuro rose, the result of the fusion of the two roses present in the original perfumes, with dirty, musky, bitter and powdery facets. I’ll call it Angelic Rose!
I’m expressing my opinion based on a bottle I’ve owned since February 2024 (BC 40162).
-Elysium
The Nightingale And The Rose
‘Give me a red rose,’ she cried, ‘and I will sing you my sweetest song.’ But the Tree shook its head. ‘My roses are white,’ it answered; ‘as white as the foam of the sea, and whiter than the snow upon the mountain. But go to my brother who grows round the old sun-dial, and perhaps he will give you what you want.’
‘Give me a red rose,’ she cried, ‘and I will sing you my sweetest song.’ But the Tree shook its head. ‘My roses are yellow,’ it answered; ‘as yellow as the hair of the mermaiden who sits upon an amber throne, and yellower than the daffodil that blooms in the meadow before the mower comes with his scythe. But go to my brother who grows beneath the Student’s window, and perhaps he will give you what you want.’
‘Give me a red rose,’ but there is no red rose around. This is the pink rose. It’s true, there’s no doubt about it. The delicate scent of the pink rose is tangible, in all its purity and delicacy, fresh, joyful, and young. It’s a simple rose, reminiscent of rose-based skincare products used to tone the skin like Roberts’ “Acqua alle Rose”, created with pure Rosa Centifolia essential oil and distilled spring water. Pure pink blossoms, semi-sweet and semi-fresh, with a hint of tart citrus.
C’est La Rose is a slightly classic fresh and spicy rosé fragrance. It opens with pink pepper that is bold and right in your face. It’s there, noticeable. You don’t need a trained nose to recognize it if you’re familiar with the true spice, but it’s not so pronounced, long-lasting, or overwhelming to result in obnoxiousness. Fresh spicy, and nearly piquant, the initial accord takes a few moments before transforming into something fruity and juicy. There is a sort of freshness and savouriness in the opening, although it has nothing in common with the fresh dark soapiness of "Mystic Rose | Zara". I can get the creamy bergamot peel, velvet-like, intertwined with the pink berries. The sensation I experience is like when I crumble the pink berries between my fingers and then mix them with citrus juice to prepare a dressing.
Slowly, the spicy and citrus aspect settles down and gives way to something distinctly flowery. The rose appears creamy, sweetish, naïve, mixed with other indolic and mellifluous flowers, with shades of jasmine, iris, and lavender. All the flower scents are well balanced, and a robust greenish geranium supports the rose. In the heart, the floral aspect is well perceived. The iris adds the right dose of powderiness with no baby talcum sensation, while the lavender intensifies the freshness without appearing too herbaceous or too aromatic. And then there is jasmine, I think the night jasmine, so creamy and luminous. At a certain point, I capture the lemony vibe of the Marsiglia soap, which I bet is coming from lemongrass or whatever it is. Not bothering at all, but just giving that sense of cleanness.
When C’est La Rose approaches the dry down, soft woody accords emerge, with resolute salty and musky overtones. The woods produce dry and smoky nuances, a little released by the resinous cedar with pencil shavings tinges and a little by the guaiac wood, balsamic and slightly smoky scent with honeyed-sweet tones. Besides the mix of woods, you can also feel in the background the clean touch of laundry that comes from the white musk. The delicate rose, the white flowers and the clean musk form the trail that accompanies me until it becomes a skin scent.
There are no dirty, animalic, or seedy notes in there. It is simply pink, clean, clear, and pure. No trace of oud, patchouli, resins, or any other dark or sticky accord. The lightness and freshness make the perfume ideal for warm seasons, and spring mornings, a safe daily fragrance for the office. Both projection and longevity are moderate, and those looking for subtlety can find it in C’est La Rose. It projects well in the early hours and lasts at least half a day. The overall development, apart from the peppery opening, revolves around the floral area, which gives the perfume a more feminine edge. I bought it for the pink pepper, although overall the scent doesn’t have the virility of "Mystic Rose | Zara".
I'm basing my experience on a bottle I've owned since February 2024.
-Elysium
‘Give me a red rose,’ she cried, ‘and I will sing you my sweetest song.’ But the Tree shook its head. ‘My roses are yellow,’ it answered; ‘as yellow as the hair of the mermaiden who sits upon an amber throne, and yellower than the daffodil that blooms in the meadow before the mower comes with his scythe. But go to my brother who grows beneath the Student’s window, and perhaps he will give you what you want.’
‘Give me a red rose,’ but there is no red rose around. This is the pink rose. It’s true, there’s no doubt about it. The delicate scent of the pink rose is tangible, in all its purity and delicacy, fresh, joyful, and young. It’s a simple rose, reminiscent of rose-based skincare products used to tone the skin like Roberts’ “Acqua alle Rose”, created with pure Rosa Centifolia essential oil and distilled spring water. Pure pink blossoms, semi-sweet and semi-fresh, with a hint of tart citrus.
C’est La Rose is a slightly classic fresh and spicy rosé fragrance. It opens with pink pepper that is bold and right in your face. It’s there, noticeable. You don’t need a trained nose to recognize it if you’re familiar with the true spice, but it’s not so pronounced, long-lasting, or overwhelming to result in obnoxiousness. Fresh spicy, and nearly piquant, the initial accord takes a few moments before transforming into something fruity and juicy. There is a sort of freshness and savouriness in the opening, although it has nothing in common with the fresh dark soapiness of "Mystic Rose | Zara". I can get the creamy bergamot peel, velvet-like, intertwined with the pink berries. The sensation I experience is like when I crumble the pink berries between my fingers and then mix them with citrus juice to prepare a dressing.
Slowly, the spicy and citrus aspect settles down and gives way to something distinctly flowery. The rose appears creamy, sweetish, naïve, mixed with other indolic and mellifluous flowers, with shades of jasmine, iris, and lavender. All the flower scents are well balanced, and a robust greenish geranium supports the rose. In the heart, the floral aspect is well perceived. The iris adds the right dose of powderiness with no baby talcum sensation, while the lavender intensifies the freshness without appearing too herbaceous or too aromatic. And then there is jasmine, I think the night jasmine, so creamy and luminous. At a certain point, I capture the lemony vibe of the Marsiglia soap, which I bet is coming from lemongrass or whatever it is. Not bothering at all, but just giving that sense of cleanness.
When C’est La Rose approaches the dry down, soft woody accords emerge, with resolute salty and musky overtones. The woods produce dry and smoky nuances, a little released by the resinous cedar with pencil shavings tinges and a little by the guaiac wood, balsamic and slightly smoky scent with honeyed-sweet tones. Besides the mix of woods, you can also feel in the background the clean touch of laundry that comes from the white musk. The delicate rose, the white flowers and the clean musk form the trail that accompanies me until it becomes a skin scent.
There are no dirty, animalic, or seedy notes in there. It is simply pink, clean, clear, and pure. No trace of oud, patchouli, resins, or any other dark or sticky accord. The lightness and freshness make the perfume ideal for warm seasons, and spring mornings, a safe daily fragrance for the office. Both projection and longevity are moderate, and those looking for subtlety can find it in C’est La Rose. It projects well in the early hours and lasts at least half a day. The overall development, apart from the peppery opening, revolves around the floral area, which gives the perfume a more feminine edge. I bought it for the pink pepper, although overall the scent doesn’t have the virility of "Mystic Rose | Zara".
I'm basing my experience on a bottle I've owned since February 2024.
-Elysium
