EnCuirNoir

I broke a 30ml bottle of this juice in my home gym last night and now the whole house smells like a fucking handsome lad from 60s. Every breath I've been taking for the past 20 or so hours has been a constant reminder of my momentarily clumsiness in the most beautiful way possible. I'm ordering a bigger bottle and using this tragedy to write a review for those interested.

Review:

New York Intense to be dumbed down is a fougere chypre, in that order. It starts by being a barbershop with chypre characteristics and then starts smelling more and more like an old Guerlain chypre, think of a masculine Mitsouko mid-to-drydown but with a remaining hint of oldschool masculine fougeres. The fougeres start in a rush, literally, the perfume starts by showing you lavender and playfulness of artemisia, like a man who's slapped some after shave that fills the room for a minute or two. The next change comes almost immediately as the house for the first 2 or 3 hours smelled so strongly of civet. It's a very high quality creamy musky civet that settles nicely for us to behold the full beauty gradually through the heart of New York. Note, don't be alarmed, civet doesn't smell like bodily secretions on its own, contrary to popular belief. There's also a constant recognizable oakmoss in the house, a very green and synthetic moss like the ones of modern Mitsouko rather than a heavy metal mousse of Rogue's. There is also bergamot, it has long left, but that too in the beginning along with the far cries of oakmoss and a creamy smokiness that resembles labdanum (probably castoreum musk) feels like a foreshadowing of NYI's chypre nature that will eventually unfold. This very unfolding into chypre aspect itself, is also reminiscent of another Guerlain to me, the gorgeous Derby. The similarities are so much that I can confidently recommend a blindbuy of one to a lover of the other. Note, New York Intense isn't nearly as smoky as Derby, yet everything else is shared either directly or in parallels between the two. Let's get back to the notes, Citron is still in the air after many hours, a rough piercing green citric accord that somehow doesn't mix with the creaminess to feel foamy/barbershop, and instead adds to the mossy side of this duet. It's a very well made perfume. It changes a lot and purposefully so. In a very sophisticated manner it walks a fine line through the history of French perfumery. You can also get small hints of a vanilla here and there, it's a realistic bittersweet vanilla, just not in a Guerlain style nor porpotions. Which I always believed to be what makes a Guerlain, but this beauty brought to my attention the bergamot, the florals and the structure of a classic Guerlain as just as important a aspect as the superficial tone to a vanilla note (something that seemingly Guerlain itself has forgotten for the past decade or two). What -for me- saves NYI from being limited to and overshadowed by the house that lost her brilliant nose, is the simple fact that despite all the heritage and history of Guerlain house, they haven't put out a single master perfume that reaches the heights of Mitsouko, Shalimar, Derby or Mouchoir de Monsieur in decades. New York Intense could easily be another masculine offering in the league of Derby for Guerlain -something the whole house have lacked for a long long while-, now it's Nicolai's smirking revenge.

To whom do I recommend this? If you like chypres or fougeres of old. If you like the idea of a more modern Derby, a much deeper richer Bois du Portugal, a masculine Mitsouko or an easy wear that has depth to keep you interested for a bottle and more, then this is for you. They don't make them like this anymore. It's not a dated perfume imo, don't worry. It's just mature, sophisticated and lush. It's not extreme in any way. Don't expect anything animalic, futuristic or groundbreaking, and you won't be disappointed.

What do I think when smelling this and who do I imagine wearing this? Well it takes me back. It's so classic that I can't ignore personal memories in favor of imaginations. It reminds me of good old days. Sharp dressed aloof men with big offices going about their day, perfumed for the task of being the provider of their family in the 60s! What do I feel wearing it? Mature, as in responsibility and not taking trivials of life too seriously! And of course handsome in a 60s parisian way! It keeps projecting for 8 hours before finally getting too close to skin and stays interesting whilst constantly getting deeper. It's relatively cheap considering what it offers, and what similar qualities cost elsewhere in likes of Diaghilev, vintage Mitsouko or Derby. New York demands respect and I love her for it.

Al-Kimiya (origin of alchemy and originally meaning Kemi-Blending Magic or magical formulation) is a pseudo-elixir, an age long goal of chemistry in its first steps, during the golden age of middle eastern science when chemists tried to achieve two ultimate goals of ambitious men, wealth and immortality. Kimiya heals any wound, cures any sickness, brings back youth and turns any stone into gold. Every king at the time would throw money at chemists, bringing them from borders of their territory, even beyond, to find the formula and make them one. They'd execute the chemists out of frustration facing the reality of old age or even got killed by the chemists feeding them all kinds of insane concoctions. All for the dream of Kimiya. A royal elixir made in the deserts of old Middle East. Kemi does a great job and brilliantly captures that idea, the middle Eastern desert setting (oud), the feeling of a king's lust (caramel, vanilla, tobacco?) and Arabian sacrifice-magic (civet, musk, castoreum). The final product has middle eastern magic all over it. You can almost hear Arabian belly dancer theme music wearing this.

Review:
Now the opening is frightening, I can imagine most who've opened the cap, just to close it right away and ask themselves what just happened and why would someone make that, for hours regretting the unforgettable inhale of sweet human sweat, camel piss and farm animal feces! (I personally do not mind any of that though) Little do they know had they given this ugly one a chance there'd be a black swan making up for that initial impression, flying so beautifully around one's skin, getting better and better for hours after application. The caramel and vanilla get the spotlight and hang on to it with the sandalwood making it even more creamy and interesting and the animal notes carry it over that high line to become jaw-dropping. To make you touch your forehead and faint dramatically: it's all happening on a rich bed of Aoud (similar to the one in the magnificent MFK Oud Extrait). As long as there is good projection (3 hours for one spray, 5 for two) the scent stays the same and after that as a skin scent the woody base (cedar?) will appear to introduce an old library accord, a very old dusty one. The gourmand notes have passed the spotlight to the animals and it's simply carnal and quite sexy.

I think I must add my love for Kemi is so out of my ordinary, as not only I'm not a fan of vanilla but I also hate sweeties and gourmands! It's the very first sweet perfume that I have truly loved, and I actually feel comfortable in Kemi, the feeling it gives me? Royal, importance and heritage, something ancient lies in this formula, like riding a wild stallion that accepts only you or wielding Alexander the Great's warhammer and the superstition of taking after his greatness! Kemi makes me tempted to believe in great things that don't make sense!

Who should try this? If you're a gourmand lover that is into animalics definitely try this it's made for you, if you love animalics whether or not you're into gourmands or sweeties you should not overlook this you may be just as surprised as I am, if you are into Middle Eastern perfumes, rich complex concoctions or just something that'd challenge you try it, you may find your match. If you have not smelled animalics or you tried Kouros and deemed it unwearable, you are not ready for this.

Who I imagine wearing this? Someone that has fire in her heart and handles it like a boss, loud and shameless, chic and vulgar, in short Madonna. I love it on myself and I find it very attractive on both a boy or girl. I've already told you what it reminds me of, a lustful Arabian king's kingdom and holy grail. The bottle looks like a relic, it lasts a long time and projects just enough to not put you in embarrassing situations. And of course, love.

It has a unique accord that smells like getting uppercut with a mouthful of blood. As a fighter I vouch it's as accurate as it could be. The whole perfume smells like biting through a predatory animal's flesh and tasting its blood through the dirty animalic musk and smokiness of fur. The blood finally dries out and only tinge of metallics remain of it so that the animalic leather can show its full beauty. Beautiful leather made by castoreum animalics, styrax smokiness and defined by florals (spanish-esque). The texture of the leather is not a floral though (none of the usual iris, violet or saffron), the texture is an aroma-chemical (isobutyl quinoline) that is used in modern faux leather perfumes, but again for the use of three scent aspects of genuine leather it doesn't feel chemical at all. After another three hours the florals start to take over the spot light for yet another unique stage to finish this madness, I'm not the expert of the floral notes here to describe them more than the overall types and names so I'll leave it at that.

To whom do I recommend? Are you crazy, are you bored with everyday life, does your food taste like ash or the grass seem grey? Do you secretly enjoy a good wound? (Or better yet openly adore one) did you think there's no perfume for you, weirdo? Well here it is. You gotta love animalic leather and metallic blood.

I told you what it resembles in my mind, being the predator of a predatory animal! The bite, the feast and a nap in the garden afterwards. Who do I imagine wearing this? Someone crazy! In a dangerous intelligent way, a sophisticated brawler, two faced, inflicting pain and attending aftercare, a dominatrix/dom and an artist. In short: Marquis de Sade or Elizabeth Bathory.

The accord pyramid according to my nose is simple: blood on top, animalic leather in the middle and florals deep in the base. It starts loud transits into next level each two~three hours while the projection lowers to moderate and then an inch above skin for the floral final act.

Personal: I love it, there are many strange perfumes that are truly niche (appealing only to a small group of people) but this one is mine. It's not particularly well made, but the taste is what makes it unforgettable, it's the only blood available for a lifelong thirsty Dracula, of course it tastes delicious. My favorite from Unum, I don't wear it as much as "Io Non Ho Mani Che Mi Accarezzino il Volto", but I feel alive everytime I do. A big big big love.

Upon application you get thrown in the midst of a surreal nightmare. Deep dark green.

A personal review:
Some years ago I came across Opus VII in a shop, the bottle was the darkest shade of green, and the first spray too, to my surprise, had not kept anything back and smelled nightmarishly dark and green, it was loud and sharp and so new to me, I looked at the SA in shock and just said wow what is this! I'm not into greens, let alone one so overtly over the top and deeply insane. But for the next days I started craving it more and more wanting to face that shock, I ended up going back opening the cap of the tester, thinking yes this is it, buying and falling in love with it. The love itself felt like a mistake/hate at first full wearings, like a struggle, I knew it's mine but it felt too insane at times, years later now I know every single detail about Opus VII, I enjoy the smooth musc under its rough face, I find the pissy leather as beautiful as a panther marking its territory and not at all repulsive, I enjoy the ridiculously dark green opening, the galbanum, frankincense and the oakmoss. And all the struggle makes VII more special to me than a love at first sniff. And to be honest I still am ready for a fight whenever it calls me to wear it!

What does it make me feel? Lost in a dark forest. What do I imagine when wearing this? There's an strong wild being lurking in the depth of this forest, like I said it took me some wearings to befriend her. Who do I imagine wearing it? Honestly noone famous irl comes to mind, it belongs to someone who's seen things that most couldn't handle, he's cold, elegant. A modern lone cowboy with a bike and a dark past. In short, Taylor Kitsch in True Detective S2.

To whom do I recommend it? If you like green perfumes, the oldschool ones, if you can handle One Man Show or vintage Quorum this will blow your mind. And it will keep doing so for many wearings, with its depth and complexity. If you like animalics, leathers, dark gothic perfumes try it you may like it, if you want something new challenging dark and really niche you're in for a treat test it you'll have fun even if you decide it's not for you. if you keep looking for "panty droppers" or consider Aventus or Office as the Holy Grail, don't bother with this. If you want something not offensive, no it's not here, this will turn heads, every single one, and some of them will be in disgust.

VII lasts a day and then some, projects like sirens for 5 hours and then strongly for another 5 before being reduced to smooth muscy green leather for it's long lasting final act which feels like a whole strong perfume on itself! (I have the first batch, but I doubt it was ever changed)

Don't blindbuy, and when testing hang on tight through the darkest green of perfumery, may you tame the beast.

Smells like asexuality, inability to be loved, lonliness, regret and very very old things long expired & made of unattractive old withered trees.

I have no hands
that caress my face,

(heavy is the weight
of these words
that know no love)

I don't know the sweet pleasure
of abandoning you

I had to be
the guardian
of your loneliness

Me,
the savior
of lost hours.

A poem that this perfume has borrowed its first sentence; And shares its soul with. The presentation too, is taken from Mario Giacomelli's project with the same name and concept (also inspired by the same cold and catching poem). Those pictures to me act as a prequel to the poem, and share the vibe with the perfumes opening hours of warm denial in a cold emptiness that will inevitably catch up.

Review:
I initially had wrote a review explaining notes and their progression hour by hour, but how pointless is that for such a parfum which is more art than fashion and more melancholia than art. Beyond the notes listed here, which are accurately listed and are shed layer at a time, great pyramid and accurate votes, you will exactly get the dominant votes of each layer in with your first inhale an spicy (cinnamon) punch of incense and myrrh, half the sweetness of the full-bodied myrrh leaves and the almost edible Christmas treat gets into an spanish leather accord with now more dominant styrax added to the cinnamon and the omnipresent Incense, it's an spanish leather, an old withered one without any fat or musk left in, and finally it gets hardcore on the Incense and it's not a one dimensional one, with a divine touch of myrrh... The scent reminds me of very old home libraries, soaked old Spanish leather, wet carpet, expired church Incense and even beyond all the resembling scents it evokes certain feelings of being outdated, forgotten and alone in the modern world. It should be exprienced and it will ruin your shiny smile, darken your bright day and put you in the shoes of a manifestation of all that's been lonely.

To whom do I recommend? If you like perfumery and scents as an art, try this, doesn't matter if you'll like to wear it or not, you'll enjoy its haunting journey, if you like the idea of a sad Kouros, damp woodies, old books, old damp Spanish leathers, church Incense, smokes this is for you, if you enjoy a little grief or the thought of death comforts you here's a cold dark welcome, eerie and melancholic, it's also a great parfum to layer and add smokiness. If you don't like Lars von Trier features, can't stand Schubert and are looking for sth to smell attractive stay away you're probably not ready. The sweetness isn't cute, the spices aren't playful, the Incense isn't passionate, the leather not kinky.

It lasts a very long time (at least 10, probably 12+) and projects almost too much for first 3 hours (1 spray) and stays noticeable for many more after that. The transition starts with losing top notes and showing warmth of middle notes before presenting her full beauty with the undeniable darkness of base notes. Again a well done pyramid to represent the scent accurately. After many wearings I see a damp smoky Incense and cedar throughout as the main star which gets darker and less sweet and I love it more every passing hour.