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How the botched reformulation dismantled a mainstream classic...
Guys, this is tough. Tough for my heart that wanted to bask in memories. Oh no! :-(
But first, the backstory:
Who among you doesn't know this - even after many years in the "perfume career" with strong evolution, one often looks back nostalgically at their younger years, when typical designer scents were often worn with complete satisfaction. Almost everyone had "the one" that they probably wouldn't even glance at today. For me, it was the very first Code - now it's out.
Code, then marketed as Black Code, was undoubtedly IN. While most young club-goers polluted the local clubs with a sweet scent trail from Le Male (and shortly after One Million - uargh), the Armani buyers - how ironic - were more the (young) gentlemen who wanted to shine with a bit more understatement. Less shouting, more whispering - once you managed to stand out against the aforementioned attention-seeking cannons, the compliments were guaranteed. In my 18-20s, I received more compliments for Armani Code than for any other fragrance. It surprises me, as younger girls are generally known to prefer scents like Le Male, Eros, 1 Million, and co. I enjoyed it - and Code became my go-to without any major ambitions.
Over time, other fragrances come along, you evolve, you "move up." After years of pause, I unpacked the old Code bottle again and enjoyed the memories it revived.
I still can't quite handle the drydown - the (old) Code is still too chaotic here and leaves (at least me) confused about what it wants to be. I don't find the bergamot as pronounced as some say - but that applies ONLY to the old Code. Once it has been on for an hour, it becomes the scent I loved so much. This slightly sweet-bitter restraint, this delicate olive blossom, this depth without being cloying. The Gukaj wood comes in perfectly and probably gives it that "mystique" that I like. I would even go so far as to claim that the old Code was one of the "least mainstream mainstream fragrances" and definitely had far more character than most of its designer colleagues. It smelled much more exciting than it actually was.
I always explain it this way:
It's simply not the show-off who drives by honking in a Lambo - but the gentleman who prefers to park the Aston Martin around the corner and shine with charm. With that, you don't attract the drunk girl, but the lady with restraint. I think you can still wear Code at 50 - even though there are undoubtedly many more artisanal and historically high-quality fragrances out there...
Enough raving, now comes the sad part of the story:
Every now and then, Code was dug out - but then it was empty! The last 125ml bottle remained empty on the shelf for a long time - until I decided after more years to get it again...
Excitement rose, as it had been years of pause again. But from a hoped-for basking in youthful memories came an open mouth - what is THAT? A fake? Diluted? Hello? What have they done to MY CODE!?
What they did, I don't know - and when the obvious reformulation happened, I can't say for sure. But the result is a disgrace! The old Code was still a creamy, dark, full, and more exciting "mash" (in a positive sense) - the new one is a toilet bowl cleaner cologne with a splash of the old Code. Far too flat, too light, too airy. The longevity (which was already not ideal back then) is also a bad joke. How can you take away a fragrance's entire character with a reformulation?
The old Code was a fluffy blanket that made you feel good. The new Code is a bed sheet sprayed with toilet duck that someone forgot to change. I'm sad, Armani!
I bought a used vintage bottle yesterday to make sure my memory isn't playing tricks on me - wow, my head didn't deceive me. There it is again, my Code. And I will cherish the 20ml leftover sip when I want to take a time travel back to my youth.
But first, the backstory:
Who among you doesn't know this - even after many years in the "perfume career" with strong evolution, one often looks back nostalgically at their younger years, when typical designer scents were often worn with complete satisfaction. Almost everyone had "the one" that they probably wouldn't even glance at today. For me, it was the very first Code - now it's out.
Code, then marketed as Black Code, was undoubtedly IN. While most young club-goers polluted the local clubs with a sweet scent trail from Le Male (and shortly after One Million - uargh), the Armani buyers - how ironic - were more the (young) gentlemen who wanted to shine with a bit more understatement. Less shouting, more whispering - once you managed to stand out against the aforementioned attention-seeking cannons, the compliments were guaranteed. In my 18-20s, I received more compliments for Armani Code than for any other fragrance. It surprises me, as younger girls are generally known to prefer scents like Le Male, Eros, 1 Million, and co. I enjoyed it - and Code became my go-to without any major ambitions.
Over time, other fragrances come along, you evolve, you "move up." After years of pause, I unpacked the old Code bottle again and enjoyed the memories it revived.
I still can't quite handle the drydown - the (old) Code is still too chaotic here and leaves (at least me) confused about what it wants to be. I don't find the bergamot as pronounced as some say - but that applies ONLY to the old Code. Once it has been on for an hour, it becomes the scent I loved so much. This slightly sweet-bitter restraint, this delicate olive blossom, this depth without being cloying. The Gukaj wood comes in perfectly and probably gives it that "mystique" that I like. I would even go so far as to claim that the old Code was one of the "least mainstream mainstream fragrances" and definitely had far more character than most of its designer colleagues. It smelled much more exciting than it actually was.
I always explain it this way:
It's simply not the show-off who drives by honking in a Lambo - but the gentleman who prefers to park the Aston Martin around the corner and shine with charm. With that, you don't attract the drunk girl, but the lady with restraint. I think you can still wear Code at 50 - even though there are undoubtedly many more artisanal and historically high-quality fragrances out there...
Enough raving, now comes the sad part of the story:
Every now and then, Code was dug out - but then it was empty! The last 125ml bottle remained empty on the shelf for a long time - until I decided after more years to get it again...
Excitement rose, as it had been years of pause again. But from a hoped-for basking in youthful memories came an open mouth - what is THAT? A fake? Diluted? Hello? What have they done to MY CODE!?
What they did, I don't know - and when the obvious reformulation happened, I can't say for sure. But the result is a disgrace! The old Code was still a creamy, dark, full, and more exciting "mash" (in a positive sense) - the new one is a toilet bowl cleaner cologne with a splash of the old Code. Far too flat, too light, too airy. The longevity (which was already not ideal back then) is also a bad joke. How can you take away a fragrance's entire character with a reformulation?
The old Code was a fluffy blanket that made you feel good. The new Code is a bed sheet sprayed with toilet duck that someone forgot to change. I'm sad, Armani!
I bought a used vintage bottle yesterday to make sure my memory isn't playing tricks on me - wow, my head didn't deceive me. There it is again, my Code. And I will cherish the 20ml leftover sip when I want to take a time travel back to my youth.
2 Comments
Translated · Show original
Zino Evening, how it smells, strong, hearty, spicy, good...
... there's not much more to say about it.
An eternal classic that still deserves a place on the perfume shelf.
Definitely a pure evening scent for me, more suited for the colder seasons.
Very heavy, almost a bit too heavy at the beginning. The fragrance smooths out after a while and then becomes truly wearable for me - freshly sprayed, I wouldn't dare to leave the house with this spice cannon yet ;-)
Even though I would place the age group for Zino a bit higher, I quite enjoy wearing it at my nearly 24 years.
During the upcoming Christmas market visits, this lovely scent will surely be taken out for a walk more often :-)
An eternal classic that still deserves a place on the perfume shelf.
Definitely a pure evening scent for me, more suited for the colder seasons.
Very heavy, almost a bit too heavy at the beginning. The fragrance smooths out after a while and then becomes truly wearable for me - freshly sprayed, I wouldn't dare to leave the house with this spice cannon yet ;-)
Even though I would place the age group for Zino a bit higher, I quite enjoy wearing it at my nearly 24 years.
During the upcoming Christmas market visits, this lovely scent will surely be taken out for a walk more often :-)
1 Comment
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A Fruity Liaison
I admit, it was an absolutely spontaneous purchase and very unusual for me to stray with this particular brand. However, for a fragrance in this price range (28 euros/100ml on sale), I was pleasantly surprised - even though I had low expectations.
The scent is very fruity - but in a gentle way, while many other fruity fragrances often smell like fruit basket concentrate with glutamate ;-)
The pear that CK lists in the top note is quite accurate - a soft, unobtrusive fruity note and a hint of cool freshness in the base, which somewhat justifies its classification as a men's fragrance (I would still argue that the scent could also be worn by women).
I will use IN2U Heat for men purely for leisure - perfect for a sunny Saturday, strolling through the city with an ice cream sundae and letting the wind blow around your ears.
The bottle looks nice on the shelf, the price is okay, and the scent is pleasant for in-between times.
Last but not least:
The scent reminds me EXTREMELY of one that I already know very well.
It must be something familiar, but I can't quite put my finger on it - help me out here ;-)
The scent is very fruity - but in a gentle way, while many other fruity fragrances often smell like fruit basket concentrate with glutamate ;-)
The pear that CK lists in the top note is quite accurate - a soft, unobtrusive fruity note and a hint of cool freshness in the base, which somewhat justifies its classification as a men's fragrance (I would still argue that the scent could also be worn by women).
I will use IN2U Heat for men purely for leisure - perfect for a sunny Saturday, strolling through the city with an ice cream sundae and letting the wind blow around your ears.
The bottle looks nice on the shelf, the price is okay, and the scent is pleasant for in-between times.
Last but not least:
The scent reminds me EXTREMELY of one that I already know very well.
It must be something familiar, but I can't quite put my finger on it - help me out here ;-)
Translated · Show original
Heartless Means to an End...
...is probably what the marketing folks at Polo Ralph Lauren thought.
A must-buy for every young hipster shuffling through the city with the collar of their Big Pony polo turned up.
Right after spraying, it’s even a little bit interesting, but everything after that is pointless.
In essence, the scent smells like every second cheap spray deodorant that is carelessly slapped on after sports.
The name will ensure good sales, but the content will likely lead to frustration.
A must-buy for every young hipster shuffling through the city with the collar of their Big Pony polo turned up.
Right after spraying, it’s even a little bit interesting, but everything after that is pointless.
In essence, the scent smells like every second cheap spray deodorant that is carelessly slapped on after sports.
The name will ensure good sales, but the content will likely lead to frustration.
1 Comment
