12/29/2020

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Habit Rouge, you're not my habibi!
Over 80 comments and 803 ratings registers this classic alone on Parfumo.
Why I now also want to add my two cents is simple: "Habit Rouge EdT" came a few days ago as a gift to me (X-MAS was all around us...) and I wear the eau de toilette now after a long time again, without really feeling this giant JOY to the fragrance, which runs through most comment odes here.
Perhaps you have desire to fathom with me, why for me this Guerlain is not a "10 "er candidate, but you must be indulgent with my old Spießerseele.
Already as a teenager I became aware of "Habit Rouge" because my father, whose name differed only by a single letter from the word "Habit", wore this fragrance for one bottle, but (thank God!) did not make it the perfume of his life. Later, my sister and I would buy a bottle of the eau de toilette every now and then, because we just liked the name "Habit" plus "Rouge" (for the political direction) so much (family specific craziness!) and we thought that "Habit Rouge" was the big brother of "Shalimar" (and "Shalimar" used to be more expensive. Back in our student days, when you couldn't order anything on the internet and we had to save money).
The scent of HR and SH is very similar. Just as with "Shalimar", the scent opens with a delightful cascade of hesperidic notes, invigorating and almost cutting.
This is the most beautiful part of the fragrance for me, the reason I love to spray it! No one does such great citrusy top notes like Guerlain!
This is followed by some notes in "Habit Rouge" that are not mentioned here in the pyramid, but which are given in some French books and which you can perceive very well, namely roses, geranium and iris. At this point in the heart, the fragrance takes on something dusty before settling into a soft balsamic base, showing very subtle leather notes, then settling gently (again, much like Shalimar) on vanilla and slowly fading out. Charming, but ...- but what?
It's too soft for me, it's too much like "Shalimar", it's perfectly androgynous and so strangely dusty at the same time. On the one hand, "Habit Rouge" is not a fragrance for the nice, solid family man next door, who trots dutifully to the office every day (or now sits trapped in front of his screen in the home office) and would never start an affair with the colleague, but on the other hand, it is also, in my view, completely unsuitable for men who want to stand out, who want to radiate strength, who are unconventional.
When I smell "Habit Rouge", one of those classic dandies from the last century appears in my mind's eye. A man wearing colorful silk scarves with paisley patterns and a hint of powder on his pale complexion.
The version I sprayed on today is reformulated, of course, but it retains its nostalgic charm. In theory, I think it's nonsense to overload fragrances with gender stereotypes, indeed, it's extremely old-fashioned and "politically incorrect" to write that this or that flower smells "masculine" and the other note "feminine".
Nevertheless, for reasons of socialization, most people make gender-specific assignments all the time, both in fragrances and in colors, in fashion in general, etc., etc., etc.
So I apologize if this comment ultimately reads like a column from the 50's, but I can't help myself: "Habit Rouge" is not a masculine scent to me. A man should not smell like someone who is afraid to reach for "Shalimar". He should either use "Shalimar" right away or "Polo" by Ralph Lauren. Or, for example, "Monsieur" by F. Malle. He is not called "Monsieur" for nothing!
So, and now you can finish me off..
Why I now also want to add my two cents is simple: "Habit Rouge EdT" came a few days ago as a gift to me (X-MAS was all around us...) and I wear the eau de toilette now after a long time again, without really feeling this giant JOY to the fragrance, which runs through most comment odes here.
Perhaps you have desire to fathom with me, why for me this Guerlain is not a "10 "er candidate, but you must be indulgent with my old Spießerseele.
Already as a teenager I became aware of "Habit Rouge" because my father, whose name differed only by a single letter from the word "Habit", wore this fragrance for one bottle, but (thank God!) did not make it the perfume of his life. Later, my sister and I would buy a bottle of the eau de toilette every now and then, because we just liked the name "Habit" plus "Rouge" (for the political direction) so much (family specific craziness!) and we thought that "Habit Rouge" was the big brother of "Shalimar" (and "Shalimar" used to be more expensive. Back in our student days, when you couldn't order anything on the internet and we had to save money).
The scent of HR and SH is very similar. Just as with "Shalimar", the scent opens with a delightful cascade of hesperidic notes, invigorating and almost cutting.
This is the most beautiful part of the fragrance for me, the reason I love to spray it! No one does such great citrusy top notes like Guerlain!
This is followed by some notes in "Habit Rouge" that are not mentioned here in the pyramid, but which are given in some French books and which you can perceive very well, namely roses, geranium and iris. At this point in the heart, the fragrance takes on something dusty before settling into a soft balsamic base, showing very subtle leather notes, then settling gently (again, much like Shalimar) on vanilla and slowly fading out. Charming, but ...- but what?
It's too soft for me, it's too much like "Shalimar", it's perfectly androgynous and so strangely dusty at the same time. On the one hand, "Habit Rouge" is not a fragrance for the nice, solid family man next door, who trots dutifully to the office every day (or now sits trapped in front of his screen in the home office) and would never start an affair with the colleague, but on the other hand, it is also, in my view, completely unsuitable for men who want to stand out, who want to radiate strength, who are unconventional.
When I smell "Habit Rouge", one of those classic dandies from the last century appears in my mind's eye. A man wearing colorful silk scarves with paisley patterns and a hint of powder on his pale complexion.
The version I sprayed on today is reformulated, of course, but it retains its nostalgic charm. In theory, I think it's nonsense to overload fragrances with gender stereotypes, indeed, it's extremely old-fashioned and "politically incorrect" to write that this or that flower smells "masculine" and the other note "feminine".
Nevertheless, for reasons of socialization, most people make gender-specific assignments all the time, both in fragrances and in colors, in fashion in general, etc., etc., etc.
So I apologize if this comment ultimately reads like a column from the 50's, but I can't help myself: "Habit Rouge" is not a masculine scent to me. A man should not smell like someone who is afraid to reach for "Shalimar". He should either use "Shalimar" right away or "Polo" by Ralph Lauren. Or, for example, "Monsieur" by F. Malle. He is not called "Monsieur" for nothing!
So, and now you can finish me off..
41 Replies