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CÈDRE by Serge Lutens
Serge Lutens' Cèdre can easily be described with one word, confusing. If you are a serious Serge Lutens fan, you might know that cedar is Serge's favorite tree. With that in mind, Cèdre should be a clearly focused, intensely woodsy scent. Not so, Cèdre has a twist.
The opening of Cèdre is a very soft, like a whisper. The cedar note makes its entrance very quietly and almost unnoticed. There is a floral note that appears but it is muddled at this point. As we wave a quick goodbye to the uneventful opening, the movement towards the heart notes are served with a heaping of dried fruit and lots of sweetness. This fragrance's namesake seems to be taking a back seat to a syrup-laden cinnamon and amber duet. Where is the tuberose you ask? It appears, like a child running in and out of the room completely ignorant of its place in this fragrance. Maybe because the tuberose is being smothered by the overly sweet ambitious duet is the reason why it's hardly noticed. The tuberose is subtle and nothing terribly distinct. The base of Cèdre gives us just a bit more cedar but also another generous helping of even more sweetness. There is also a animalistic note in Cèdre in the form of musk. This may give the fragrance a more substantial base but doesn't really improve its overall linear performance. One of the problems with this fragrance is its simplistic construction of notes. Sometimes a simple assembly can prove to be an interesting fragrance, but Cèdre is muted, vague and extremely linear.
Most Serge Lutens fragrances have great longevity and sillage. Usually, that is the desired effect, and Cèdre is no different. If you're looking for a light floral that's syrupy-sweet with a hint of cedar, you might give Cèdre a try. Considering the show-stopping performances of most of the other fragrances in the Serge Lutens collection, Cèdre might leave you disappointed.
The opening of Cèdre is a very soft, like a whisper. The cedar note makes its entrance very quietly and almost unnoticed. There is a floral note that appears but it is muddled at this point. As we wave a quick goodbye to the uneventful opening, the movement towards the heart notes are served with a heaping of dried fruit and lots of sweetness. This fragrance's namesake seems to be taking a back seat to a syrup-laden cinnamon and amber duet. Where is the tuberose you ask? It appears, like a child running in and out of the room completely ignorant of its place in this fragrance. Maybe because the tuberose is being smothered by the overly sweet ambitious duet is the reason why it's hardly noticed. The tuberose is subtle and nothing terribly distinct. The base of Cèdre gives us just a bit more cedar but also another generous helping of even more sweetness. There is also a animalistic note in Cèdre in the form of musk. This may give the fragrance a more substantial base but doesn't really improve its overall linear performance. One of the problems with this fragrance is its simplistic construction of notes. Sometimes a simple assembly can prove to be an interesting fragrance, but Cèdre is muted, vague and extremely linear.
Most Serge Lutens fragrances have great longevity and sillage. Usually, that is the desired effect, and Cèdre is no different. If you're looking for a light floral that's syrupy-sweet with a hint of cedar, you might give Cèdre a try. Considering the show-stopping performances of most of the other fragrances in the Serge Lutens collection, Cèdre might leave you disappointed.
ECHT KÖLNISCH WASSER by 4711
The formula for 4711 has remained under wraps since its introduction over 200 years ago. We are aware of the basic notes of this fragrance but not much more. Amazingly enough, 4711 is as relevant today as a fresh citrus cologne as in its beginning. The opening of 4711 is sparkling citrus, featuring bergamot, lemon and orange. Bright, refreshing pure and simple just as it should be. The complexity starts with heart notes in a classic combination of lavender and rosemary. Many colognes have this make-up of citrus top and herbal heart, so 4711 remains true to its Cologne heritage. The floral neroli base compliments the citrus notes once again, keeping 4711 fresh and simple. 4711 is not a complex niche cologne, and wasn't intended to be. But, this is a great everyday leisure fragrance that does have a clean, fresh edge. 4711 is a great choice for wearing to indoor functions where you may be around many people who might take issue with heavy fragrances.
Longevity on 4711 is a bit deceiving. Some have complained that it is undetectable after 30 minutes but like many cologne type fragrances, they are composed of citrus and can be short on longevity. Citrus notes are fleeting on the skin and sometime all you are left with are some long lasting heart notes and sturdy base notes. 4711 does have a herbal heart which does last but the neroli base is just about as short lived as the citrus opening. 4711 turns into a great skin scent but be careful, if you find yourself in a situation where your body temperature rises due to either the room temperature or outside temperature. 4711 will definitely make a second appearance in a strong fashion. This experience with 4711 is completely unexpected and a bit of a pleasant surprise.
The large 400ml bottle is designed to be used as a splash and is best applied in that fashion. There are smaller sizes available and even one with a spray atomizer but to get the full effect, stick to the 1820 design splash bottle. It's fun to use.
Longevity on 4711 is a bit deceiving. Some have complained that it is undetectable after 30 minutes but like many cologne type fragrances, they are composed of citrus and can be short on longevity. Citrus notes are fleeting on the skin and sometime all you are left with are some long lasting heart notes and sturdy base notes. 4711 does have a herbal heart which does last but the neroli base is just about as short lived as the citrus opening. 4711 turns into a great skin scent but be careful, if you find yourself in a situation where your body temperature rises due to either the room temperature or outside temperature. 4711 will definitely make a second appearance in a strong fashion. This experience with 4711 is completely unexpected and a bit of a pleasant surprise.
The large 400ml bottle is designed to be used as a splash and is best applied in that fashion. There are smaller sizes available and even one with a spray atomizer but to get the full effect, stick to the 1820 design splash bottle. It's fun to use.
TUBÉREUSE CRIMINELLE by Serge Lutens
Tubéreuse Criminelle is a beautiful creamy white tuberose fragrance with tons of personality, spun by none other than Serge Lutens and perfumer Christopher Sheldrake. This fragrance is an interesting twist on the classic tuberose genre, so be prepared.
The opening is a strange, astringent wintergreen and camphor attack with whiffs of fragrant eucalyptus. This opening scent combination might have you checking for a gasoline spill, but don't worry. No fuel spills here. Over a short period of time, the opening metamorphoses as the tuberose fights its may up through the thick intense layers of green aromatics. You'll find a beautiful parade of florals, like jasmine, orange blossom and hyacinth following close behind. From the first time it appears, the tuberose ages and matures into an amazing floral extravaganza. The wintergreen and camphor are now but a whisper, but still standing in the wings just as a reminder. The tuberose is dusted with the scent of leather and just a bit of spice and smoke. The rich base of musk and vanilla give the florals a velvety and luxurious feeling.
Tubéreuse Criminelle is not your typical tuberose fragrance, nor is Serge Lutens you typical perfumer. This combination of wintergreen with the polar opposites of waxy intense florals and just a touch of smoke, is a memorable and exotic combination. This a perfect tuberose fragrance for men because of its aromatic green structure combined with the dry-down combination of leather and spice notes. If you looking for something completely different from a tuberose fragrances, Tubéreuse Criminelle might be it?
The opening is a strange, astringent wintergreen and camphor attack with whiffs of fragrant eucalyptus. This opening scent combination might have you checking for a gasoline spill, but don't worry. No fuel spills here. Over a short period of time, the opening metamorphoses as the tuberose fights its may up through the thick intense layers of green aromatics. You'll find a beautiful parade of florals, like jasmine, orange blossom and hyacinth following close behind. From the first time it appears, the tuberose ages and matures into an amazing floral extravaganza. The wintergreen and camphor are now but a whisper, but still standing in the wings just as a reminder. The tuberose is dusted with the scent of leather and just a bit of spice and smoke. The rich base of musk and vanilla give the florals a velvety and luxurious feeling.
Tubéreuse Criminelle is not your typical tuberose fragrance, nor is Serge Lutens you typical perfumer. This combination of wintergreen with the polar opposites of waxy intense florals and just a touch of smoke, is a memorable and exotic combination. This a perfect tuberose fragrance for men because of its aromatic green structure combined with the dry-down combination of leather and spice notes. If you looking for something completely different from a tuberose fragrances, Tubéreuse Criminelle might be it?
07 TANOKE by Odin New York
07 Tanoke is the newest in a line of fragrances from Eddy Chai and Paul Birardi of Odin New York. The inspiration for their latest introduction is the Northern California seaside. Resinous air meets warm and woodsy in this lush base of redwood, guaiac wood, patchouli and black musk. Light and slightly spicy top notes merge with a smoky wood heart. It is fresh pine lingering in an interestingly vague smokiness. I found this fragrance very satisfying and peaceful, like a walk in the forest. There is something quite calming about 07 Tanoke. I have sampled all of Odin's fragrances, and unfortunately, I didn't find much merit in this line until now. The remainder of this collection was a bit pedestrian and unmemorable.
I would definitely recommend giving 07 Tanoke by Odin a whirl, it is well worth sampling. 07 Tanoke was selected for W Magazine's "Top 10 Indie Fragraces".
I would definitely recommend giving 07 Tanoke by Odin a whirl, it is well worth sampling. 07 Tanoke was selected for W Magazine's "Top 10 Indie Fragraces".
YATAGAN by Caron
What exactly was the inspiration for Yatagan from Caron? It is more fitting that we understand the meaning of the word yatagan before we can appreciate the story behind this fragrance.
Yatagan is a Turkish word for a knife or short saber that was used in the Ottoman Empire during the mid-16th to the late 19th centuries. This knife or saber consists of a single-edged blade with a stout handle often decorated sometimes with precious jewels such as diamonds, emeralds and rubies and other times with engraving.
Many yatagans date from 1750-1860 and were used for fighting as well as ornate parade weapons. Civilians and military men wore the more ornate versions as a status symbol. There was also a smaller lighter version of the yatagan that were used by infantry soldiers as not to interfere while carrying them on a march.
The town of Yatagan is located in southwest Turkey and very famous for their yatagansmithing and it is considered the birthplace of yatagans. Legend has it that the town was conquered by a Seljuk commander and blacksmith by the name of Osman Bey or otherwise known as Yata?an Baba or "Father Yatagan". Yata?an Baba later settled there and subsequently invented the yataghan type blades and gave his name not only to the town but to the saber he created.
Yatagan the fragrance was introduced in 1976 by perfumer Vincent Marcello for Caron. Marcello's other notable creations was Halston Z14 which debuted in 1974. Caron describes Yatagan as "An invitation to journey into the world of the famous Ottoman horsemen wielding the eponymous Turkish saber with its curved, tapering blade" as stated on their online site. I believe that their concept for this scent was every bit of the allure and masculinity portrayed of western Asia. It is masculine, old world, dry, green, earthy and leathery. Yatagan definitely represents a precise combination of those scents. I also think that Caron captured the essence of the word and accurately describes not only the place of conception but the article itself.
Yatagan opens sharply with a very dry green herbaceous masculine note that is slightly citrus. Lavender is found hovering in the top notes. I do not find its presence predominant, it simply harmonizes nicely with the other green notes. The combination of these greens might easily be conceived as a celery note. The wormwood and artemisia top notes definitely find their way in towards the end of the opening with a sharp bitter presentation.
The heart note progression finds the green herbaceous notes mellowing but now drizzled with a fresh sappy pine resin. The pine note is the only sweetness I find in Yatagan and seems to be a bit smoldering or smoky probably due to the styrax. Don't worry, I wouldn't associate the pine note to any of the hundred other scents that come to mind when anyone mentions pine. After this intense hardy pine heart notes, Yatagan settles into a warm leathery type Chypre.
The base has a bit of a animalistic presence with castoreum, which seems to camouflage itself gracefully behind the buttery leather base note. There is a successful blending of the pine needles, patchouli and vetiver that probably assists in keeping the castoreum in check and giving it a more bearable earthy quality. Besides these very subtle movements through the scents note stages, Yatagan is relatively linear. It starts off bold and bright but moves quietly to a warm finish so as to allow the fully enjoy of the masculine profile of this fragrance.
Yatagan can be a bit challenging to wear and is not for everyone. It requires a love of dry sappy pine and a bit of a dirty earthy quality in order for anyone to successfully endure it's effects. It is not a loud, fussy, pretentious or flamboyant men's scent as you might expect from being a mid 70's fragrance creation. It is more of an aggressive, commanding and authoritative type that is inspired by a time long past.
I personally find Yatagan thoroughly enjoyable and easy to wear especially in the fall and winter or cooler climates. You might also try it in the warmer months but use sparingly. Yatagan stays very close to the skin but it has a good longevity. It is something that should be a part of your collection and can easily be one of your new favorites.
Yatagan is a Turkish word for a knife or short saber that was used in the Ottoman Empire during the mid-16th to the late 19th centuries. This knife or saber consists of a single-edged blade with a stout handle often decorated sometimes with precious jewels such as diamonds, emeralds and rubies and other times with engraving.
Many yatagans date from 1750-1860 and were used for fighting as well as ornate parade weapons. Civilians and military men wore the more ornate versions as a status symbol. There was also a smaller lighter version of the yatagan that were used by infantry soldiers as not to interfere while carrying them on a march.
The town of Yatagan is located in southwest Turkey and very famous for their yatagansmithing and it is considered the birthplace of yatagans. Legend has it that the town was conquered by a Seljuk commander and blacksmith by the name of Osman Bey or otherwise known as Yata?an Baba or "Father Yatagan". Yata?an Baba later settled there and subsequently invented the yataghan type blades and gave his name not only to the town but to the saber he created.
Yatagan the fragrance was introduced in 1976 by perfumer Vincent Marcello for Caron. Marcello's other notable creations was Halston Z14 which debuted in 1974. Caron describes Yatagan as "An invitation to journey into the world of the famous Ottoman horsemen wielding the eponymous Turkish saber with its curved, tapering blade" as stated on their online site. I believe that their concept for this scent was every bit of the allure and masculinity portrayed of western Asia. It is masculine, old world, dry, green, earthy and leathery. Yatagan definitely represents a precise combination of those scents. I also think that Caron captured the essence of the word and accurately describes not only the place of conception but the article itself.
Yatagan opens sharply with a very dry green herbaceous masculine note that is slightly citrus. Lavender is found hovering in the top notes. I do not find its presence predominant, it simply harmonizes nicely with the other green notes. The combination of these greens might easily be conceived as a celery note. The wormwood and artemisia top notes definitely find their way in towards the end of the opening with a sharp bitter presentation.
The heart note progression finds the green herbaceous notes mellowing but now drizzled with a fresh sappy pine resin. The pine note is the only sweetness I find in Yatagan and seems to be a bit smoldering or smoky probably due to the styrax. Don't worry, I wouldn't associate the pine note to any of the hundred other scents that come to mind when anyone mentions pine. After this intense hardy pine heart notes, Yatagan settles into a warm leathery type Chypre.
The base has a bit of a animalistic presence with castoreum, which seems to camouflage itself gracefully behind the buttery leather base note. There is a successful blending of the pine needles, patchouli and vetiver that probably assists in keeping the castoreum in check and giving it a more bearable earthy quality. Besides these very subtle movements through the scents note stages, Yatagan is relatively linear. It starts off bold and bright but moves quietly to a warm finish so as to allow the fully enjoy of the masculine profile of this fragrance.
Yatagan can be a bit challenging to wear and is not for everyone. It requires a love of dry sappy pine and a bit of a dirty earthy quality in order for anyone to successfully endure it's effects. It is not a loud, fussy, pretentious or flamboyant men's scent as you might expect from being a mid 70's fragrance creation. It is more of an aggressive, commanding and authoritative type that is inspired by a time long past.
I personally find Yatagan thoroughly enjoyable and easy to wear especially in the fall and winter or cooler climates. You might also try it in the warmer months but use sparingly. Yatagan stays very close to the skin but it has a good longevity. It is something that should be a part of your collection and can easily be one of your new favorites.
