Flakon11e

Flakon11e

Reviews
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The Day Before Yesterday and Yesterday
Since I cannot write two statements about a fragrance that has been reformulated multiple times over the years with several changes in ownership, I will summarize my impressions here. I am referring to the two bottles I photographed.

*

Old bottle with glass stopper:
ambered floral magic nectar flows directly into the depths of the soul
bright-sounding peach smiles cheekily
grounded tuberoses & carnations settle on a small musk creature
delicately dusted with a hint of cinnamon
cat purrs in tolu balsam
Fine sandalwood note provides a framework

*

Black box with newer perfume version:
Bergamot in fresh grass
Bright spring flowers with delicate peach
Tuberose geranium finds a few amber stones
fine pencil note
From my perspective (also in comparison to the matured, older scent), it remains a bright & green fragrance.

*

I like both fragrance variants: I would prefer the newer version (closer to the EdP) in warmer temperatures (but not in high summer); the older, melting-away version provides warmth during the Advent season and reminds me of Ambré Lumière

In the first H&R Atlas from 1984 (p. 67), the following notes are listed:
Top Notes: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Leaf Green, Peach
Heart Notes: Tuberose, Jasmine, Iris, Carnation, Rose
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Musk, Moss, Cedar, Benzoin

*
Wonderful thoughts on the original Fracas can be found at:
https://kafkaesqueblog.com/2013/01/08/perfume-review-robert-piguet-fracas-the-history-the-legend/
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From Winter to Summer
In the frosty winter, I carried you in memory of warmer days. Now you sneak back into my heart, dry my tears, and carry me from the blooming orange trees past the juniper bushes to the lavender field.

Fresh herbs scent the garden. A little clove brings a smile to my face.
The gentle breeze brings warm-ambered blossoms to the wooden benches.

The musicians with banjo, trumpet, clarinet, and violin tune in. Amber necklace on, lipstick applied, and followed the sounds of the swing band to the dance floor.

A delicate hint of vanilla later settles on the mossy happiness.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *

I have described the original version here. Since these bottles still have rubber stoppers, I assume that my bottles can date back to the 1960s at the latest.

The (male) version from 1995 in the green box strikes me as significantly lighter and fresher, and I see more similarity to Gucci's Nobile.
@DasguteLeben has written a great review of the remake.
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The Crux with Reformulations
Originally, I just wanted to write a statement:

Blinking aldehyde stars
Bergamot rosebud ignites incense & blooms
cool incense as a recurring myth
bright rose remains present
grounded vetiver under the starry sky

I tested the gray, round bottle, not the original version in the square bottle. In the newer version in the translucent black bottle with the gold top on the outer packaging, the aldehyde stars are missing; this version starts off very warm and remains more subdued.
Additionally, I discovered blue bottles in the photo gallery!

Gray bottle:
Aldehydes (or coriander?) flash in and out, earth crumbs occasionally show up beneath the green patchouli leaves, vetiver rounds it off; the very delicate incense dances rather shadowy and nebulous over the bright, young rose; fortunately for me, there is no marzipan, no vanillin (I can't check off oriental spices in my assessment), here I feel more like I'm in a Persian, summery garden.
The review by @chanelle captures my impression very well.

Since I stumbled upon such different reviews and statements, I went directly to Guerlain and
came across a 200 ml variant: https://www.guerlain.com/sg/en-sg/p/les-absolus-dorient-encens-mythique---eau-de-parfum-P013630.html: “... An ethereal incense leaves only a fleeting mark on this fragrance, while rose shapes its fiery accents. But the endless sweetness and extraordinary depth come from authentic and majestic ambergris from New Zealand, specially selected by Thierry Wasser for this fragrance. A mysterious opus to sing the praises of a world dedicated to eternity.
....”
This explains that this variant is wearable in winter.
I see my variant in the gray bottle more suited for warmer temperatures.
Purchased in 11/2021 from a reputable online perfumery.
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Bella ciao
Fresh and bright, hyacinths, lily of the valley, freesias, and rosebuds shine in the underbrush. We walk the path through the narrow, green valley towards the old mill. Once, there were gardens on the slopes, but now only scattered fruit trees grow on the fragrant wild meadow. In spring, their blossoms delight us, in autumn we pick their fruits.
Many forget-me-nots bloom at the roadside in partial shade, nodding their little heads in the gentle breeze.
The old mill has been converted into a spartan excursion restaurant with heavy wooden tables, ancient deciduous trees provide shade. Next to the silent mill wheel, moss grows into the forest.

Amber tears run down her face, will there ever be another hike through this bright green and delicately flowered valley?
Forget-me-nots nod their little heads in the gentle breeze.

She walks barefoot over the moss, grasses tickle her calves, cedars now provide shade on the way to the small chapel. Reverently, she sits down on one of the old wooden benches; a hint of incense hangs in the air and mingles with the deep green forest scent that still envelops her.

I found this information at https://parfumsgodet.com/fr/collections/petite-fleur-bleue/: Alienated from nature on the Côte d'Azur and the creative spirit that surrounds it, Julien-Joseph Godet presents himself with a new challenge: a wood-flower alliance of unparalleled grace. In his own way, the perfumer wrote a poem to his wife, whom he affectionately named Petite Fleur Bleue in reference to her azure blue eyes. The message is conveyed through the freshness of freesia, the tenderness of rose petals, and the elegance of jasmine in the heart note. In the depth, incense, cedar, and Chamonix moss spread a discreet intimacy.
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Funfair, Folk Festival, Kermis
Hyacinth, lily of the valley, and violet stroll through the spring-like park.
Gentle vanilla beckons from the fairground. The anticipation of a relaxed evening after the turmoil of war rises.
Carnation, nutmeg & tea rose sit on the carousel's wooden horses adorned with jasmine flower garlands. Light, caramelized cotton candy floats between the wooden stalls and mingles with the blossoms.
Kittens wander around the dancers.

**

Regarding Brisson, I could only find the information that this house released these fragrances right after World War II.
Based on the bottle design and the plastic caps, I suspect that the fragrances were still produced in the 1960s.
Unfortunately, I did not discover a fragrance pyramid.
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