Fresh21

By now, I have had around 800 perfumes in front of my nose, yet Aqaysos is still my number 2. So my feverish interest is not surprising when it was officially announced that Pierre Guillaume is "tracing the composition of the bestseller Aqaysos".

WOW, that's quite a statement, my long-lasting love is getting a little sister. I have to date her immediately… and bam, right into the Oshiso-sharing queue.

But maybe I should have read the following line a bit more attentively, as it goes on to say (translated) "a crystalline, woody-spicy note that reveals a powdery and enveloping nature under a 'biting freshness'".

Oops.

Well, let's wait and see, it will be fine…

Not at all!

Barely arrived and sprayed, a powerful note immediately pushes itself onto me... like the Monday production of a mutated Armani Code Profumo, infused with concentrated sweet almond baking aroma - full throttle: shrill, loud, doped, 210%.

And yesss …that IS "biting", because it is ruthlessly synthesized and maximized to peak performance. Okay, okay, with Pierre it sounds a bit more moderate with "crystalline". But if he wouldn't speak of a woody note, I would hardly recognize it as such: a heavy artificial brew! Strangely enough, I could still somewhat tolerate the new Oshiso, which calms down a bit over the first half hour, makes the next even bearable, and then performs a little miracle!

Whaaat?... how is that possible after THAT start?

In fact, I could hardly believe it, but this overly sweetened aroma-chemical [wood?] club takes exactly one hour to transform almost completely into the wonderful (late) drydown of Aqaysos! And I have been in love with that for a year and a half. However, its fluffy-soft fruit-musk-wood note really only comes into its own on clothing for me, and only after 5-6 hours, but then particularly long! So, in the last few months, I set out to find which notes in Aqaysos could produce this beautiful tone, as well as corresponding fragrances that create it as early as possible.

My research (+tests) was not the smallest, but ultimately I concluded that the enchanting drydown of Aqaysos is unique, and thus unrepeatable. Not that it is particularly extraordinary, but rather the opposite: simply very pleasant, you feel totally comfortable with it, yes it is like a best friend, a confidant… And to create this effect, Aqaysos probably needs a complex, very balanced mélange that also contains a special "animalic musk" that leans more towards skin than animal - simply top!

And now this Oshiso comes along, opens with a Rocky Horror synth show and teaches us better: Pierre Guillaume knows how to do it and imitates his own fragrance! Clearly, he has recognized the signs of the times, because I am certainly not the only one who loves the Aqaysos drydown and wishes for it throughout the entire duration (including our esteemed Medianus76).

But like with so many other fragrances, the Oshiso unfortunately also suffers from the problem of needing a high dosage of ingredients to maintain the achieved vibe over a longer duration. However, that from this completely exaggerated, overly shrill synthetic mix of the listed Oshiso notes a lasting Aqaysos drydown can emerge, I would have never thought possible, as they are hardly discernible individually.

Really impressive that the new PG smells much less synthetic after a good hour, or rather its residual impression becomes a design feature just like with Aqaysos.

With two sprays on the neck, its power sillage reduces over the first hour from an initial 7-8 to 6, and weakens after about 4 hours to only 5.5... but just half an hour later, the Oshiso is back at 6, as a bright, slightly creamy, subtly fresh note joins in and deviates a bit from the Aqaysos drydown. The scent then remains and projects for another 3-4 hours. For comparison: with 2-3 sprays on a shirt, there is initially the same baking aroma explosion as on the skin, but the scent transforms significantly more hesitantly into the beautiful Aqaysos note, but remains forever (after 12h still sillage 6).

Conclusion: if you can survive the first half hour, Oshiso soon develops into a pleasant, slightly fresh, only moderately synthetic, soft-woody scent that after about an hour closely resembles the late Aqaysos drydown (on shirt). After about 4.5 hours, it becomes a bit brighter, but still resembles its predecessor 80-90%. Overall, it is a bit nuttier, more almondy, while Aqaysos has this part appearing bright-fruity. However, on clothing, the two resemble each other after >12h even >90%.

Lastly, something personal:

For a long time, I hoped and searched for a fragrance that would reflect the Aqaysos drydown as much as possible throughout its entire duration. But when I finally found it, my favorite suddenly lost its charm, the magic dissipated and its uniqueness faded. So I have the experience: something so beautiful that only reveals itself after hours should probably not appear earlier and simply be present all day.

In this respect, I not only distance myself from the extreme start of Oshiso, but I also look forward to Aqaysos even more from now on, to be able to wait for its highlight for hours each time, and thus appreciate it even more :)

But for those of you who are impatient and have special nasal sphincter muscles to simply ignore the first half hour, Oshiso is made for you:

From the ugly duckling to… beautiful albatross (or something like that ;)

1) What is Air Tiger and what is it used for?

Air Tiger is an Extrait de Parfum for (re)activating your alpha male DNA

.
2) What should you consider before using Air Tiger?

The effect is very intense and can last unabated, at least 96 hours. Therefore, it is recommended to rinse off with a garden hose (increased pressure, 6-7 Bar) for your daily shower.

.
3) How should Air Tiger be dosed?

0.3 sprays are usually sufficient to occupy the CEO's place among the stags for 3-4 days. Ideally, spray into the room and walk through it an hour later (adhesion guaranteed).

.
4) What side effects are possible?

• Extreme interpretation of one's own masculinity (Popeye delusion)

• Spontaneous full-body hair growth (may appear ridiculous to those around you)

• Uncontrolled nocturnal roaring (similar to rutting during the day)

• Abuse of plutonium sillage as a unique selling point at the checkout

• All perfumes in your collection may suddenly request vacation or quit their jobs

.
5) Contents of the bottle and further information

Alcoholic liquid in a 100ml glass bottle: sufficient for 6-7 lives due to extreme perfume oil concentration. Decanting should only be done on the balcony or terrace to share some of the effusions with your neighboring countries.

*

Oops, oh no… different. This is a serious scent, a very serious one. There’s nothing to laugh about. So again, as objectively as possible:

Air Tiger is currently the number 1 of all men’s fragrances listed on Parfumo, with the strongest sillage and longevity. Its pronounced dominance is created by a balanced mix of intense patchouli, sharp cardamom, crisp cedar, black gall leather, and fine smoky woods, which is interwoven throughout by a robust, gin-like juniper that shapes the essence of the fragrance. However, I do not perceive it as animalistic as shown in the diagram, and iris and amber are at best decorative embellishments.

It is quite linear, yet anything but ordinary. Its magic lies in the sparse dosing, and one must first get used to it to truly appreciate it. Because even though Air Tiger looks good on my neck - I always end up applying too much, causing the scent to threaten to tip into the painfully intrusive.

I also find the extreme perfume concentration of 25% somewhat incomprehensible, as half of that would already be too much. What good is it if Air Tiger generates 100% attention and has an equally high recognition value, but hardly anyone can wear it?

So, making a virtue out of necessity, I banished the beast from the firing line - from the neck to the belly :) And lo and behold, when you place the scent with just one careful spray under your shirt, it produces a wonderful dark, finely smoky leather-patchouli-wood tone, interwoven with the depth of a clear juniper transparency. Still distinctly present, serious and masculine, but now more relaxed, composed, and indeed more pleasant.

And the best part: worn under the shirt, Air Tiger also proves to be an optimal layering scent and pairs well with more than half of my current perfumes - even with sweet representatives. Like a subwoofer, it provides a fantastic base, giving each fragrance a solid foundation and thereby making it more valuable, refined, and attractive. Perhaps this would also be a recommendation for you, because otherwise, it’s back to go, 7-8 sprays on chest, neck, and hand, and the silverback is on display... but

please pay attention to the package insert :)

Hey, I'm currently at Douglas testing a Givenchy flanker.

"How does it smell?"

Hold on, … I just sprayed it.

"And?"

Oh wow, it’s super fresh - - nice citrusy - - - has something - - special - - - and is also - - slightly - - - spicy.

"What? I could barely understand you, bad connection!"

Strange, it shows all three bars on my end. Can you hear me now?

"Yes, loud and clear, so again."

Well, it smells - - - really fresh - - but - - also a - - little bit like…

"Stooopp!" Nothing is coming through on my end."

Well, … nothing is coming through for me either!

"What do you mean?"

Well, the longevity is so poor that you can't even finish a sentence without reapplying :)

"So it’s not the bad connection, but this Givenchy?!"

Roger … but the opening is really top. Nice citrusy, zesty, fresh, it instantly lifts your mood. Plus, there’s a fine spiciness that makes it wonderfully tingle, almost fizz, so lively is its freshness… it also has a special hue, as if there’s pear in it, very light, clear, and attractive.

"And? Are you going to get it?"

Nope, let me first apply it properly, I’m going to splash 3-4 sprays on my neck, on my wrist, and another amount on my shirt. That should be enough…

"Okay, see you later then."

****

Hey, it’s me again, about the Gentleman Cologne from Givenchy. It really starts off great, and after the superb top note, it also becomes a bit green-velvety-plant-like. But on my wrist, it was already gone after half an hour, and an hour later it was gone from my neck and shirt too!

"What? Is that it?"

Yes, and no trace of iris.

"Huh?? I thought your girlfriend's name was Susanne."

Very funny … oh by the way, that’s already over too. But speaking of relationships, I think I’ll get this flanker after all, it’s just

ideal for Speed Dating!

"Good day, general review control"

What? Again?

"Mr. Fresh! We are just doing our duty here… You, on the other hand, are missing quite a bit."

Excuse me?

"Don't play innocent, after all, your last review was 3 ½ months ago."

Oh, right… but I can explain. I won a discovery set from DER DUFT, with the condition to post a series of reviews.

"And?"

Three fragrances have already been reviewed... admittedly, quite harmless.

"Well then, a bad review is more than overdue!"

Not necessarily, because the reviews were supposed to be free of fun, due to a self-imposed bet, basically as penance, after I tricked nearly 60 users on April 1st, for the third year in a row, on my blog, and no one noticed, so I…

"Mr. Fresh! Take a breath and get to the point. You sound like a drunkard, and… wait a moment… you smell like one too!"

Um, yes… I can explain that too.

"No need, today is Father's Day, we know what's up!"

But no, you are completely mistaken, I am currently testing a perfume. And it opens with a strong sparkling wine note, quite authentic, including acidity and a fine fizz. After about 15 minutes, a slightly sweet note comes in, which is supposed to be blackcurrant nectar. It reminds me more of mango, but it harmonizes well with the sparkling wine - as if there were punch, haha :)

"Mr. Fresh! Stop babbling."

Why should I? After about 1.5 hours, the scent feels very balanced and now fluctuates a bit between the sparkling wine and the light fruit sweetness. Well done, but who wants to smell like punch?

"Tell me, do you actually know the bear you want to sell us?"

Nonsense, this perfume really smells like sweetened sparkling wine, and after 3 hours a soft (ambrette) musk comes in, which I consider unnecessary and probably just serves to stretch the scent. After another hour, everything condenses into a mix, with the sparkling wine note no longer perceivable due to the lack of acidity and fizz. At the same time, the sillage also loses strength, which for my taste barely exceeds 6, losing more than a third after about 5 hours, and the scent becomes very close after about 6h… that's it, and no trace of rose, chamomile, or sandalwood.

"Aaaja."

Oh, one more thing: The stuff is called Bubble and costs €120/50ml, haha.

"Alright, that's enough, this information was just what we were missing for your swill... or should I say champagne at THAT price?"

Yes, that would be correct, because it is indeed in the fragrance pyramid…

"Enough now! You are to log out immediately, we will accompany you, and then it's off to the sobering cell. You'll stay there for a few days, we'll send you a real perfume dud, and you will finally write a proper bad review! Otherwise, it will just be

a case for the Parfumo Police!"

With the third review of my DER DUFT Kommi series, I fulfill my promise of a pure perfume documentary one last time, and unfortunately (fittingly;) I can neither share the enthusiasm nor many details of my predecessor. But what can you do, we have to get through this :)

Grasse starts with a dense, bright floral mix that is a bit too feminine for me. Additionally, there is a slight synthetic undertone, not sharp or scratchy, but rather soft and somewhat intrusive. Just too much of a good thing and one-sidedly floral, at least for me. And unfortunately, there is no trace of bergamot.

However, within the first hour, the fragrance slowly but steadily eases up and lifts its dense floral curtain a bit, as the aldehydes make it increasingly transparent and a little fresher, albeit somewhat "shriller" at the same time. Nevertheless, the fragrance remains relatively unchanged in its basic floral character, and from hour 2 onward, it feels more harmonious because it is less dense.

At the same time, the individual flowers remain difficult to distinguish. I can barely perceive the iris, the fig plays only a minor role, and the vanilla only starts to make its presence known from hour 3, making the fragrance a bit sweeter. At this point, the sillage is at 80-90%, clearly noticeable at a 3/4 arm's length, and I no longer perceive the fragrance as too feminine - although it is close to the edge. But for those who enjoy florals underpinned by an attractive vanilla note, now is the time to pay attention...

Conclusion: Grasse improves throughout its duration and essentially forms a mix of soft bright flowers (rose perhaps a bit stronger), a hint of fruity freshness, and increasing (rather dark) vanilla from hour 4 onward, but without any grounding from patchouli. After 5 hours, the sillage is still at 60-70% and presents a rather pleasant, likable, but for my taste too ordinary (vanilla-heavy) scent. However, after a maximum of 7 hours, it becomes very close to the skin - usage: 70% female, 30% male.

I can only give it a 6.5 because I am not a fan of floral vanilla and also miss the powdery aspect of the iris (currently 23% in the diagram - where?). Fundamentally, Grasse is not a bad fragrance, although nothing special. And since there are easily three similar options for its price, this niche fragrance is unfortunately just a

flowery average.