Grenouille8

Attention, this will be a declaration of love. To Aramis Classic, the One, the Unparalleled. My true signature scent, my partner. There are a couple of other classics that I count in this category, but to be precise, if I had to choose one, my real and true signature scent, without a second thought, would be Aramis. Why? Because this fragrance corresponds to my personal idea of a perfect companion for a man, for a fragrance lover. A companion for eternity, for every situation, every life circumstance. An addition, an identification, and a trademark. Only a very few fragrances can achieve that. It is telling that, for me, this is of course a (rather old) classic. Yes, I have a penchant for them. Or rather, it’s simply the great, venerable houses and brands that manage to meet my ideal vision of a fragrance. And not only in the scent itself but also in the presentation, the appearance, and the statement. I love it when fragrances, or let’s call them perfume creations, have character, stand for something. That’s why I titled this comment "Chanel N°5 for Men." Because, of course, I wasn’t referring to a scent affinity, but to a comparability regarding the status a fragrance has, how much one associates it with something, and also how long a fragrance has managed to withstand times, trends, and "fashionable escapades," smiling confidently and completely untouched behind it. In my eyes, Chanel N°5 is an excellent example of this class of perfumes among women’s fragrances - and among men’s fragrances, it is The One and Only Aramis Classic! My great love. My very personal idea of a perfect fragrance. To put it simply, one could also speak of cult fragrances in this category, in case my elaborate, glorifying descriptions are not entirely understood. :-). Just as Chanel N°5 is probably the (at least in terms of recognition and perception) epitome of "fragrance incarnate" femininity and stands for classicism, sovereignty, style, self-confidence, innovation, and indeed also a whole new, personal bond/relationship with one’s own fragrance, Aramis Classic has been, since its birth in 1964 and especially in this time (for many true fragrance lovers, of course, even to this day), the scent that countless people associate with masculinity. And I don’t just want to talk about crude "male-female roles" or the understanding of them, because those who know me are aware that I am also an advocate for everyone to wear the fragrance they like, that suits them, and that they simply want to wear. Even if it is a perfume that might be marketed as a scent for the opposite sex. I have no problem with that and personally use Shalimar by Guerlain, for example. That’s something everyone must decide for themselves. Nevertheless, I am also a nostalgic and find nothing wrong with having a certain idea of a woman or a man. And this can certainly move within the original or traditional idea of it. I find that beautiful too. So very, very feminine women and striking, "typical men." Because, in my opinion, that has in no way anything to do with judgment or lack of equality. But that is another topic that doesn’t belong here. What’s important is - everyone should feel free to do as they wish. And I do that, which is why I also find the "traditional cliché" of men and women quite beautiful. Also in the world of fragrance. But it’s not just about the embodiment of masculinity or femininity, but about much more. Because Aramis, even though it stands in many minds for THE classic men’s fragrance, is above all also a statement in itself. A statement, the perfected appearance of a fragrance. Olfactorily and also culturally. Because Aramis is considered (at least for me) the fragrant extension of one’s own aura, as something that becomes part of the wearer, in this case, the man. As something that will be forever associated with this person. A true signature scent indeed. And that begins with the bottle, which is a design masterpiece in the case of Aramis, just like with Chanel N°5. Interestingly, both bottles have hardly changed or not changed at all to this day. That is something special. And both fragrances still stand today for what they stood for many decades ago. They are classics and not passing fads (with which I have my problems anyway). They are so masterfully composed that one (at least I and many, many others) never grows tired of them. They are traditional, special, fragrances as one imagines fragrances, you can smell their years, and yet they are designed in such a way that they are always current, endure, always fit, and will always fit. They are objects. And as mentioned, also visually and how they have been visualized and continue to be. Brought into our era and yet remained true to themselves. When I smell Aramis, when I operate the sprayer or pour the beloved liquid from the bottle into my hand, something happens to me. I don’t just smell a wonderful fragrance, but I embark on a journey. I feel like I am the bearer of a tradition, the preserver of wonderful times. I have reverence for this masterpiece by Bernard Chant. And I truly do not feel that way about many fragrances. With the application of this fragrance, I feel equipped, protected, and at the same time, I have the feeling that with the fragrance, I am making my soul a little "more visible" (or more fragrant). Something of me to reveal. What I want to reveal. Aramis is perfected. The blend of nature and synthetic, of ruggedness (earthiness, spiciness) and sweetness (floral notes), of strength and extroversion, and at the same time a close personality makes this fragrance usable for me in every situation. Aramis always fits. The only requirement: One must like to be noticed. Because yes, Aramis is strong, a force. But a force that does not intrusively waft around, but rather stays close. And which, I believe, due to classic fragrance components (spicy, earthy, mossy, leathery, aldehydic) does not become unpleasant, unlike overly sweet fragrances that can quickly become intrusive. Because Aramis is a Chypre par excellence and one of the best representatives of leather notes. I recommend to anyone who loves classics, spicy-leathery, and strong fragrances, who holds nothing of fleeting trends, to test Aramis. I could imagine it will be the beginning of a great love... Long live Aramis, my faithful friend or as the advertising strategists of Estée Lauder Companies say today: "Aramis. All a man is."

How many times have I tried to put this fragrance into words, to describe it? I’ve started and stopped again. It is so hard to do justice to this masterpiece with words... How do I even begin? Shalimar is not pleasing. That comes to mind immediately. But only in a positive way. Because who needs a "pleasing little water"? And the fact that we are talking about a true icon here. And rightly so. By the way, I am referring to the currently available version of the fragrance, as unfortunately I do not currently own a vintage variant. And I certainly do not know how the fragrance smelled in 1925 when it was created, except through a few hints from Thierry Wasser in an interview. But I have known this fragrance for many, many years and according to my memory, I still recognize it immediately today, or rather it corresponds fundamentally to the scent I have had in my mind since our first encounter (and never forgot). I am referring to the Eau de Parfum, as I primarily use this one, but I mean the scent itself in principle. The composition, the character of the creation itself. I believe that Shalimar is one of the few fragrances that has survived a reformulation or revision (if it has taken place - which I assume) well and without damage. That is a great gift, because the loss of this masterpiece would have been a huge one. Of course, like all Guerlain classics, there is also this wonderful story that inspired the fragrance. The great love story that led to the construction of the Taj Mahal alongside the Shalimar Gardens. Epic proportions already in the creation story of this perfume. Modesty is out of the question. Think big. Go big or go home. And that is perfectly fine. It just fits. Because Shalimar is opulent. Shalimar is deep. Shalimar is intense. Shalimar is unique. In short - Shalimar is great. And what makes this fragrance so unmistakable? It is, as is usual with master perfumers, mostly the composition itself. The interplay, the completion, how the individual notes and elements connect, complement, emphasize, and create contrasts. What a juice this is. My goodness. It is pure magic. It is said that Shalimar was "the first oriental fragrance." In my opinion, one can only correctly refer to it as the first WESTERN perfume with an oriental scent direction. Anyway. In any case, IT is an oriental. And what an oriental it is. Powderiness, as it is sometimes mentioned, I associate with this fragrance only very, very subordinately. Likewise, the floral notes. I do not perceive them here as solitary and characteristic on their own, but as a common harmony that contributes to a whole. For me, much more leatheriness and smoky notes are absolutely in the foreground. Animalistic allure at its finest. Erotic? Certainly. But not vulgar, rather mysteriously, stylishly provocative. Magical. And of course the vanilla, which never drifts into a sticky, nauseating sweetness, but remains carrying, connecting, and in a certain way spicy at all times. Shalimar intoxicates but never becomes exhausting. At least not for me. Throughout its entire development, the fragrance remains strong and present, but still personal, in my opinion. That is why I also consider Shalimar to be a true signature scent, like most of the great Guerlain classics. Thus, alongside L'Heure Bleue, it has also become my signature scent.
And now I am back exactly where I started - I am at a loss for words. Although I feel like I have so much more to say about this fragrance because it evokes so much in me. But sometimes silence is simply the more fitting way to express one's feelings. Therefore, I will conclude with the words of Jacques Guerlain: "To wear Shalimar is to unleash your senses."
One more note. I recommend everyone to watch the wonderful commercial "The Legend of Shalimar" from 2013. Just like the fragrance, it is a masterpiece.

A masterpiece. I really searched for other words, but couldn't find anything more fitting. Essentially, L'Heure Bleue is the perfect fragrance. Harmonious, round, deep, multifaceted, highly individual, unmistakable, exquisite, weightless yet heavy, soft and at the same time strong. It is indeed Guerlain. Learned is learned. A guarantee of quality. Especially the classics. The first time I came into contact with this fragrance was about 18 years ago. And I can still almost exactly remember the situation. It was the time when I began to discover my enthusiasm for Guerlain. All the stories. Almost every single perfume has its own inspiration. So much tradition and history to explore. Just my thing. Naturally, I was particularly interested in the old fragrances. Those from the hands of the greatest masters. And logically, one cannot avoid L'Heure Bleue in that context. I wanted to find "my" Guerlain fragrance and described to the expert how it should be. What was important to me and matched my preferences. Heavy, tendentially dark, full, preferably with an oriental touch, deep, long-lasting.... She didn't have to think long and reached for a bottle. "This is it. Your fragrance." She was right. One breath was enough. I felt something velvety heavy fall over me. It enveloped me. At that time, I was still pondering how it is with women's and men's fragrances. Oh dear. This is a women's perfume. No doubt about it. What am I going to do? But it is mine. Fortunately, the desire was greater and I adopted it despite some concerns about whether I could wear this fragrance as a man. Of course I can. Because today I know that one cannot simply define a gender by a fragrance. There are still notes that I would tendentially assign to women or men, but that does not mean they cannot both wear them. Essentially, our current perception has probably emerged mainly through marketing, and we have learned or accepted it that way. In its origin, however, fragrances were not really assigned to genders. Another example is true Arabic, oriental fragrances, those that can be bought online or directly in Arab countries. There are many fragrances intended for men that are completely atypical of what is sold to us in the West as a masculine scent. But anyway - everyone has to decide for themselves. In the end, it always comes down to the individual wearer and the respective fragrance. And it is indeed exciting when, for example, a very feminine woman wears a more rugged scent and a striking man wears a fragrance with a certain sweetness or floral notes. It just has to fit. And then the seemingly mismatched fragrance even emphasizes the masculinity of the man or the femininity of the woman. Now back to L'Heure Bleue. It was exactly like that. Of course, the fragrance is anything but what we understand as a men's scent. But I immediately recognized the potential, the complexity of this composition. I knew that this fragrance has a development, that it can reveal very different facets and, above all, that it will connect with its wearer. This fragrance is a true signature. And that is why it also emphasizes a masculine personality. I actually feel this way about most of the older, great fragrance classics. Everyone knows by now what the inspiration for this fragrance was, created in 1912. The hour when the sun has set, but the night has not yet fallen. And yes. One could say that L'Heure Bleue perfectly captures this magical moment of the day. But of course, that is an imagination, as it often is with inspirations. Admittedly a beautiful one. But L'Heure Bleue is much more, because every wearer can naturally give this fragrance their own interpretation. So I associate with this fragrance, in addition to its magical radiance, its heavy softness, its enveloping nature, a very special darkness, a certain melancholy, and a lascivious, intoxicating sensuality. All of this, however, always with style and class. French. And despite the sometimes powdery softness of the fragrance, it also possesses a great strength and angularity for me. It is indeed complex and multifaceted. Above all, one must learn this fragrance, become familiar with it. The more one engages with it, gives it time and space, the more one will discover. It is worth it.

Tobacco-like, balsamic. This is how this fragrance composition is officially described by Harry Lehmann. And of course, that is true. But this scent is so infinitely much more. Russian Eau de Cologne is style and class. It reminds one of the good old days. Gentlemen's clubs, but also other opulent evening events. This fragrance has that certain touch of nobility, despite a certain rawness. It is rough and yet refined. Perfectly balanced. Tobacco, patchouli, possibly amber. A splash of the finest cognac. Russian Cologne is so masculine. Without being crude. It is a really, really good classic perfume, like those that are hardly found today. Top-notch quality and harmony. The presence is always perfect. Constantly there yet not exaggerated. Considering that it is an EdC, many EdPs could learn a thing or two from it. Furthermore, Russian Cologne has a special kick for me. That certain something that I can hardly describe, but which a good perfume must have. Whatever it is. I wear it and feel special. The scent immediately conveys to me an impression of elegance and exclusivity. It is noble. Dark and yet sparkling in its own way.
Russian Eau de Cologne is another masterpiece by Harry Lehmann for which I am very grateful.

I have already left a comment on the wonderful Fougère Cologne by Harry Lehmann. I can only repeat and confirm everything here. The scents are identical, only the EdP has greater intensity.
It remains true: This Fougère is a dream. A true masterpiece and old school.