Ignika

Not only from my grandmothers I get the flacons pushed in. This one is also from a fellow student, the last one. Thanks again, Maxim. I left him standing there for a long time. He was at a loss. Not anymore

For the start I join Leimbacher: Cinnamon! The bergamot probably enhances the facets of the tonka bean. Its other accents, saffron-like, carnation-like, are less apparent. The berga itself is not as fresh as usual, not as sparkling, not as clear. Perhaps these are already the influences of the wood? This is also evident early on, darkly tart with faint hints of cocoa and coffee. After the first explosion of subtle spice and the spread of the tart tones, woodiness gradually becomes apparent. The Sillage is a little bit more than body-hugging, so it could pass as decent. Unfortunately Hoggar never had any endurance with me, after a maximum of 4 hours it was always over.

To me Hoggar sounds like a companion for job interviews after these lines. Subtle, does little wrong, and after the one interview, it's over. For the first impression was enough.

Ma Griffe, like so many other bottles before her, came to me from my grandmother. For years, one bottle stood in the cellar. I took the Sleeping Beauty with me to Berlin

From start to finish, Ma Griffin is herbaceous, due to the interplay of aldehydes and green notes. I would identify the latter as ivy, but only for lack of a better idea. In the beginning there are still lemon, asant(reminiscent of onion) and clary sage. Flowery hints are provided by gardenia and orange blossom, maybe some iris root is still hiding in the background. Sandalwood smoothes some edges without being too necessary, gives a creamy touch. The base of oak moss and vetiver is relatively early visible, but never superficial. Not mentioned notes never showed up in several tests. No sweet incense. No rose. No cinnamon.

When I read all this I see: Ma Griffe is my first experience with the chypre family. Interesting, yes, but on the other hand this perfume has given a lot of wearability. I was urged to dispose of the bottle...
I don't care, I'll keep testing from time to time. Maybe I can revise my rating soon. Let's hope so.

Eau Svelte came to me a few months ago. My grandmother had probably bought it then, half emptied it and forgotten about it. I tested the relic a few times

At the spray head sun cream just came into my mind again. As sun cream scents I know Le Bain from Joop and Musc Blanc from Les Senteurs Gourmandes; both have lily of the valley and musk in common. After spraying it on, it becomes fresh, creamy, herbaceous. A tart, penetrating note emerges, guaranteed by age. Reminiscent of bad breath and leather. Fortunately, this note soon disappears. The impression of white-flowered flowers is intensified, and Svelte becomes a bit more fruity. Unfortunately the same unrecognizable fruity sweetness as Bruno Banani's or Harry Lehmann's Acajou, which I recently tested. For an aged "Perfumed Spray Deodorant" the shelf life is good. The projection certainly never went too close to the body.

Everyone has certain scents that they associate with the good times and moments. One of my first scent memories comes from Lufthansa. In the past, we sometimes flew to Spain, sometimes to Turkey. Mr. Gaultier's box office hits were also sold on board. That's why I like Poeme: memories of individual little wafts of fragrance on the plane, of my childhood, of Classique.
A small detail of the boom of Classique and Le Male is the base amber musk vanilla, which is also represented here. That's probably why the similarity. Also, both lead orange blossom and ylang-ylang.

Back on track!
Poême begins beguiling. Rarely does a fragrance stand so much for lived sensuality. Before the aforementioned base, the erotic flowers romp through each other.
(Behind the notes I add this time the respective fragrance impressions.)
I recognize primarily heliotrope(vanilla with almond notes), angel trumpet("penetrating"), ylang-ylang(heavy, soft, feminine), tuberose(opulent, creamy) and a little further back orange blossom(fresh floral) and the black currants. I like the latter a lot in this fragrance, but they feel a bit out of place. If you sniff hard enough you can even smell the cedar. More of that by all means! Apart from that, the fragrance then seems to me also quite dusty, vll. hides so far back also something iris(or mimosa, which is to have irisanlänge).
I would still describe the fragrance as linear. Nothing new comes up, the existing notes only disappear. Is not bad, if the work is as successful as here!
Sillage and durability do not disappoint.

Summary: Incredibly beautiful composition that you must have experienced.

Jules was my first experience with the heavy guns of the 80s. I was often overwhelmed and then surprised that I had got my 5ml empty. At times it reminded me of a litter box (dusty, animal), sometimes of bathroom cleaner (citrus too strong?). Fortunately that was years ago. Now, with a few years more experience, I can finally leave a worthy comment

Jules is atypical and quasi a fougère. The start (fresh and herbaceous) is dominated by lavender and bergamot with tarragon, quickly followed by the accompaniment of cumin, basil and violets. As the hours went by, the carnation strengthened, jasmine showed up in some tests. Oakmoss becomes recognizable, leather shows up strongly next to the carnation and lavender, while in the background it still cares, basil and tarragon. Sillage and durability are not disappointing. At times it can be too much, so strong all the notes so long.... but mostly it is just right.

I only came to the comment here because Azzaro pour Homme reminds me very much of him. Lavender with citrus, some herbs/spices, later moss and leather. I find this one much more interesting, more changeable.

So, Jules..
Fougère, more flowery, leathery, with herb dressing.
Strong, striking, persistent.
For men, not for males.