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Old vs New, to the Customer's Dismay
I have owned Layton for a few years now, and it is one of the few fragrances that consistently brings me compliments. It once deserved the title of a mass-appeal niche fragrance, but today it has become more of a designer scent.
My review above refers to the old version. My comparison:
Longevity and Sillage:
New: 4-6 hours of moderate sillage. Old: 6-8 hours with slightly better sillage.
Scent:
I have tested Layton from every year since 2016. The old Layton with 78% alcohol before mid-2021 clearly had a more prominent menthol note, which is hardly detectable in the new version (possibly not at all, it could be placebo). Some would describe the note as medicinal, which is understandable. Aside from the menthol note, which I personally really like, the old version has a beautiful vanilla in the drydown, with spices and a hint of apple - something makes it go deeper.
The new version smells a bit fresher, lighter, but also not as full; I would describe it as flat. This makes it more mass-appealing, and on slightly warmer days, I could imagine wearing the 82% Layton (not everything is bad). At the same time, it is no longer what I understand as niche, as I miss the depth and have to search for the difference to a similar designer scent hust* boss bottled absolu hust*. AHHH WAIT - I found it, in the absolutely inflated price!
This review can probably be applied to most PdM releases in one form or another. There are some that have fared worse in the reformulation.
However, what has absolutely nothing to do with the scent is the fragrance oil content.
Without further reminiscing about the old days:
Parfums de Marly reflects exactly what is going wrong worldwide today.
As long as the packaging and marketing look good, product quality is a secondary concern, because maximum profit is the most important. And if you already have a good image and stand for quality, no one notices if you change a few screws in the name of profit maximization.
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From Cloister Stone to Male Magnet
Batch: December 2015
I'll keep it short and sweet: The opening smells like a citrus cloister stone or something similar with an absolutely synthetic citrus note for 20 minutes. It hasn't gotten any better in the last 10 years. But it's bearable, it might even appeal to someone to a certain degree (I don't like it at all). 3/10
Drydown: I don't know what's happening here, but it develops into a smoky lemon with a hint of pineapple. It smells good to me, apparently even better to others. In my opinion, the sillage and longevity are quite good, if not too strong - more than 2 sprays are not recommended. I understand the Aventus comparison, but this one doesn't smell as natural and is smokier. 8/10
Result: I've never received so many honest compliments and questions about what I'm wearing. Honestly? Well, I've received the compliments and questions almost exclusively from male colleagues. Maybe the scent is more suited for women after all?
Personal: 8.0
For other men: 73728/10
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I wear it just for myself
Herod is, for me, the best of all Parfums de Marly fragrances. Even though there have probably been numerous reformulations, it has been toned down, the color has changed, and similar things, this scent remains perfect for me for winter.
It evokes a sense of well-being in me, a kind of inner peace, which is connected to this cinnamon tobacco note. It is not too complex, but it clearly and structured changes and regularly prompts me to sniff it myself. Moreover, unlike many other perfumes, it does not cause scent blindness for me, which I greatly appreciate.
In my eyes, this fragrance gets better with each time I smell it and has a very unobtrusive vanilla note.
Nevertheless, it must be said that the scent quickly burrows into the skin and therefore does not stand out as much as other winter fragrances.
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So good that I sprayed it again
It is rare for me to find a fragrance so wonderful that I have to keep smelling it over and over. This one was so good that I sprayed it a second time.
The classic The One EDP has always appealed to me and is a fragrance I wear when I don't know what else to choose. However, Luminous Night is clearly an evening scent for me.
At the beginning, it has a medicinal sweetness mixed with the freshness of the original. The DNA is clearly recognizable. However, it then transforms into an aromatic sweet spice that reminds one of a mythical place as one imagines it.
Unfortunately, it shares the same characteristic as its original, seeking to fade away after a very short time and is only detectable when pressed into the skin. Still, a great fragrance.
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To the Bitter Favorite
When I first smelled it, I thought it was good. Nothing more. A friend of mine thought it was just okay; she actually didn't even like it at first, as she later told me, "but the scent has something about it," she said.
It smelled different, bitter, somehow fresh, but actually not really, more refreshing, like a mild breeze of bitter freshly cut grapefruit. Over time, it became one of my favorite scents because it's one of the few that I remember out of nowhere and somehow keep in my memory without associating it with any real situation. The aforementioned friend loved it after smelling it for the 2nd or 3rd time because it smells different, special.
Unfortunately, the perfume doesn't last long on me, but I assume it's just my skin. It's a shame that it’s no longer produced in series, but I'm sure it will be available again.