JavSantana

JavSantana

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JavSantana 6 months ago 1
I don't see any smoke - smelling ingredient listed...
Wrong note listing. No note from the olfactive pyramid showed here presents a smoke nuance. In the opening it has other herbal notes, i cannot personally pick one out so it's an aromatics bouquet. In the base it surely has other woods like vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, animalic musk, oakmoss, patchouli, amber, and the king of all the base notes: A smoky leather note based upon birch tar or cade, which is pretty much similar to smelling a bonfire or firewood burning, even a BBQ or grilling with coal.

Now, that being out of the way, Jacomo is an interesting fragrance. Opens with citrus and herbals as nice chypres from back in the day and from the 1980's, and the spices it has in the heart kind of give me Santos de Cartier vibes, which i also have in my collection. (Santos Concentree)
In the base i note the smoke - forward leather accord and a ton of oakmoss and patchouli. So it's pretty much a herbal, warm spicy, slightly floral and citrus, smoky, leathery, mossy and earthy kind of scent. I do also note an ever so slight sweetness to smoothen out the rough leather and moss notes. In my skin the drydown pretty much smells of a freshly smoked cigarette butt with earth, spices, herbs, amber and moss.

The worst thing about it, is i like it. (Kidding)
The perfect scent for a heavy tobacco smoker if you want something that DOES ACTUALLY smell like tobacco.

Bottom line: Great 80's scent, rather unique. Even though works in any climate, i would advice to wear it only during winter and at night. It's that dark. I would assume TF's Oud Wood Intense and Beauforts are a toy compared to this. And it costs 20 bucks above anything. I advice it more than most designers. Greetings and take care.
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JavSantana 7 months ago 1
Good summer cheapie
A few days ago i came into a supermarket with a particularly good variety of aftershaves and colognes (Actual colognes) to buy the original 1960's Brut, which i also have a review on. I had sold my bottle but found i had fallen in love with that sweet mossy scent and had developed a nostalgia for it, recalling some good times with it, hence i bought it again. I guess you might be wondering, what does that have relating the Brut Oceans fragrance? Well, i also needed a good hot weather scent, and the name "oceans" did caught my attention. A few days later i went into the same shop and bought the Oceans edition of Brut. It comes in a rectangular bottle which is heavily different from the classic Brut bottle, while mantaining the classic green glass on it.

It's an aquatic, citrus, herbal, aromatic, and woody fragrance. Even though i find its longevity to be slightly below than average, i hope it will get better when a bit more of oxygen makes its way inside of the bottle. It's still not bad either, just at a point where it's the lowest decent or acceptable longevity i could think of. Might last some 4 hours when heavily sprayed, but quite ironically, Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche is unable to reach that longevity.

Brut Oceans starts off with citrus, aromatic and aquatic notes. In the heart and base retains a bouquet of woods and musk with ambroxan nuances as well. I do find it an excellent scent bearing in mind its price of around 7 USD, and for a summer scent will be a great choice. I still think that it might not be the best for the dog days of summer, but it's a nice one still. A perfectly casual, ultraclean scent for heat seasons, and for the price, it's worth getting 3 or 4 bottles of it at the same time. For a lazy time out or a casual ocassion, it's perfect.

Bottom line: Great cheapie for heat. Not the best longevity but on clothing will be a very nice and proper choice. Greetings and blessings
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JavSantana 7 months ago 7
Father / Mother of leather chypres
The leather chypre family has been a particularly suited olfactive divission or classification for some of the most significant masculine fragrances of all time. I recall:

1960's: Aramis, Eau Sauvage, Agua Brava
1970's: Givenchy Gentleman, Halston Z14, RL Polo
1980's: Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui, Chanel Antaeus, Paloma Picasso (A woman's fragrance but it is rather unisex to masculine forward) Antonio Puig's Quorum, Guerlain Derby, Hermes Bel Ami
1990's: Moschino Pour Homme, Salvador Dalí For Him 1991, Safari For Men RL

And to this day, niche houses still use this DNA for the creation of fragrances sold to very high prices, even thou commercial vintages (Or current formulations which are decent) of some of these fragrances can be easily found for around 20 USD smelling pretty much the same.

Going back to the review: In the vogue of the 1960's Aramis came out with heavy moss, old leather, herbal, wood, floral and citrus nuances, to name the few, as would be expected back then. Represents a time and a character in perfumery that seems long lost and heavily out of fashion, excluded by current trends, yet, does that mean that we'll paint graffiti in our house walls and ditch the paintings of yesterday only to follow a trend?

Its opening presents heavy citrus and herbal nuances typical of the family, yet, masculine forward, since female chypres are rather aldehyde and floral focused, whilst masculine chypres go more toward heavier woods, leather and herbals. Aramis does also possess aldehydes worked in a very 1960's way, which in my opinion smells at the same time like nothing i could put a name on and a certain familiar old school nuance.

In the heart includes a floral and spice bouquet which as good ol' chypres of the time, were either opening and base note - heavy, since i don't find any of the heart notes particularly protagonic, but they indeed add a certain, beautiful refinement to the overall accords.

And, speaking of its base, it presents a mixture of tree moss, a bouquet of woods, musks, a touch of amber and a particularly present leather note in a rather vintage fashion, as if you smelled a piece of refined, old vachetta, i do find its leather note to be animalic and dry, like a very old and dried out piece of vegetable tanned leather.

My bottom line on this fragrance is: Even though out of fashion, it's a moment and a work in perfumery that cannot be denied and in my opinion, should be known and smelled by any fragrance enthusiast for general culture.

If you're a young man who likes compliment pullers and somehow ended up in here and would like to remain using exactly the same fragrances, i don't recommend this to you because you will probably throw up or think it's the most outdated fragrance you have ever smelled. However, if you want to try something new, something out of the tendencies of today, or simply want a masculine as hell scent with a darn lot of refinement to it, no matter your age, i advice this perfume above almost any fragrance. At the end of the day, perfumery is not three years old, and i find unfortunate masterpieces like this are forgotten and avoided by current trends. I do not consider it appropriate for feminine wear, pure masculine character. If you would like a feminine version of this i would advice either Gres Cabochard or Paco Rabanne Calandre. The current formulation is decent but might not be as long lasting as others. Uses for wear and garments to wear it, perfect for the office, perfect as a signature for an older gentleman (35+?) perfect for dating mature women and perfect for any person looking to distinguish himself from the crowd. A good outfit to wear this is a three piece suit or if casual, a leather jacket in a rather traditional cut (Band collar leather jacket with a two piece front or such, in light to medium brown) a flannel or overall a long sleeve button up shirt will be perfect for this. Also goes greatly with classic cut shoes like brogues, mustaches, tweed sport coats and so on. Please don't wear this with a bomber jacket in nylon or faux suede or a heavily faded denim trucker which is pretty much white with this, nor joggers or sweatpants. Put some work to the outfit and you'll be just fine. A masterpiece of perfumery. Greetings and blessings
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JavSantana 8 months ago 2
Grown up Eros
I got this bottle of Montblanc Legend Night because my father stopped wearing it and instead opted for Christian Dior, Versace, Man In Black and YSL's La Nuit De L'Homme L'Intense. (Amazing leather / iris frag btw, way better than Valentino Uomo or Intense)

And a few days after getting it, i break it down here.

Citrus / Spicy opening with bergamot, cardamom and slight aromatic mint / sage nuances
Ambery, powdery heart (Has some kind of iris / orris nuance way heavier and more pronounced than in "iris" bombs like that La Nuit De L'Homme Intense or Gentleman EDP by Givenchy) with touches of apple
Vanilla / woody base

It's an interesting fragrance. Not particularly unique by any means but it does have a particular dna that you do not find in other fragrances. Yet being close to Versace Eros (It doesn't smell much synthetic to me but anyway) it's like a grown up, refined and more elegant version of it. If Eros is the minty, citrusy vanilla kid oversprayed in the club, Legend Night is the same kid several years later (8 - 10?) wearing a tailored suit and an open shirt while drinking some fine cognac or whisky, neat. It's the best way i have found to describe it.

Bottom line: Great fragrance for the price. Montblanc always giving a great bang for buck ratio. And worth pointing out that the performance to me is ok. Not bad by any means, nor a beast mode, projects quite silently but it's great for a date. Also if you're more subdued and instead of going out to blast a club with 20 sprays of a loud scent, you go to cafés on cloudy days to meet reader girls and say you're a writer and a photographer, it's a better scent for that as well. (Maybe not as good as JPG Le Male Essence de Parfum or Givenchy Gentleman EDT, both classic and vintage) Not a heavy projector in my experience, but i guess that with it oversprayed, you can go clubbing or to a party without any trouble. Spray on clothing for extended longevity and you're good to go. Great budget winter and night scent
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JavSantana 8 months ago 1
Great cold weather cheapie!
I do not have the EDT version of this, but i will review the bodyspray, black aluminum can presentation, which can surely be used as a fragrance.

Opens up with fruity and spicy nuances, of pear, cardamom, coriander, slightly citrusy and aromatic. Dries down into a kind of "Gold" smell (Since it gives off that vibe to me, an association with that color) based around chocolate, vanilla, a notable suede accord which adds to its great refinement, while mantaining that slight pear / apple juicy and fruity vibe and spices lingering around. I do not perceive much musk. Overall, a great fragrance for cold weather from the house, which, again, the bodyspray could perfectly be used as a substitute for perfume, spraying heavily on clothing like plaid, flannel or synthetic wool.

Bottom line: Great substitute for date and clubbing frags. However, Black Night would be better suited for that.
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