Unusual dry woody (with lots of facets) blend, spacey wood that's dense
Sampling American Perfumer – Spacewood, created by Christophe Laudamiel, seemingly a recreation of an earlier release for The Zoo, now part of a collection of six released by the boutique in late 2025. The name sort of fits, a dry woody fragrance with a bit of an otherworldly quality to it, the official note listing consisting of Egyptian mimosa, white wine, star anise, and acacia flower. It’s fresh, a little dry and paper, vaguely both floral and aquatic, and funky in a sort of aquatic, green, vegetal way. It’s definitely interesting but I’m not sure I’d reach for it, myself, more of an alluring artistic expression than something I find flattering on myself, personally, but I like the idea of exploring this sort of space.
As with the rest of this specific collection, it’s EDP concentration and priced at $175/50 for 50/10ml, sold exclusively via the house website.
6 out of 10
Nice fresh rhubarb scent- lively and not at all overdone
Sampling American Perfumer – Rhubarb My Love, part of the boutique’s own named line of six fragrances from 2025, with this one being created by Christophe Laudamiel, seemingly a re-release from his earlier collaboration with the zoo. Fittingly, it’s an expression of rhubarb, with plenty of zesty, fresh, green aspects, but not overbearingly so. I find that rhubarb can be challenging in food and fragrance with incorporated heavily, and the application in this fragrance is deft—prominent, but not over-the-top. The only listed noted is rhubarb itself and that seems fitting, but if I were to give it a little more color, I would say that there are green/vegetal aspects, a vague airiness / muskiness, and herbal/spicy qualities. All told, it smells a lot like rhubarb and incorporates the aspects that make rhubarb such an interesting and provocative ingredient. If you like rhubarb, you’ll like this; if not, it’ll perhaps prove a challenge but even for me, a rhubarb skeptic, it’s quite nice, overall, worthy of some re-smells and exploration.
This is EDP concentration and priced at $175/50 for 50/10ml, sold only through the boutique’s website, and performs well for a largely fresh, green fragrance based on vegetation.
7 out of 10
Rich fig blend - more so dark and earthy than fresh and green but somewhere in between
Sampling American Perfumer – Fig My Love, part of the collection of six house-brand fragrances released in late 2025, with this being one of three created by Christophe Laudamiel. It’s a milky, woody fig that leans slightly more toward earthy and dark rather than bright/fresh/sweet, but is fairly in the middle, quite dense, a rather serious treatment of fig that I imagine fig lovers will generally appreciate. I tend to prefer fresher, greener fig fragrances, myself, but this is a really nice execution of something more in the middle, and I enjoy smelling it. I think it’s an easy one to recommend that everyone try.
As with the rest of this particular line, Fig My Love is EDP concentration and priced at $175/50 for 50/10ml, sold exclusively via the boutique website, and a discovery set is available with 2ml spray samples of all six in the collection.
7 out of 10
Interesting tobacco resinous mix with some nuance and flair
Sampling Tobacco, from American Perfumer’s own sextet of house brand releases from late 2025, with this one (and two others, Bluegrass and Derby) created by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. It’s a robust blend of tobacco and cedar, primarily, with what vaguely smells like a funky hay note (though it is not listed officially), rounded out by an ensemble of plum, rose, amber, and sandalwood. It’s a curious mix of tobacco, resins, spices, and sweets, with floral and funky bits that give it some character. It’s nuanced and a bit unique, also, as I do not recall anything that smells quite like it, but I like the overall category which, most centrally is tobacco and resins, in my opinion.
As with the rest of the collection, this is EDP concentration, priced at $175/50 for 50/10ml, and sold exclusively via the American Perfumer website. I love it and it’s my favorite of this collection so far. Bravo to Dawn for this creation.
8 out of 10
Nice watery fresh green dewy citrus blend
Sampling Derby from American Perfumer’s 2025 collection of six scents. This (along with Bluegrass) is created by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. It’s a fresh, laid back mix of citruses, jasmine, ambergris, and musk that’s clean yet natural, reminding me of warm air on a summer day, very easy to enjoy. It’s dewier and greener in its very opening, drying down to something a bit airier. A very nice freshwater-adjacent scent, and as I say often, nailing a scent that’s reminiscent of fresh water is quite challenging, and always impressive when done well. It has just the right balance of citrus, neroli, and floral to allow for that experience to feel quite immersive. I like this one a bit more than Bluegrass, which I sampled yesterday, but both are nice.
This is EDP concentration and priced at $175/50 for 50/10ml, sold exclusively by American Perfumer. It performs well for a freshie but is not too boastful.
7 out of 10
