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I'm preeeety underwhelmed
I am not impressed by the new Parfum de Marly. I have to say that from the scent notes alone - overall too much flower - it was clear that it would not be MY fragrance. I even considered for a while whether to participate in the sharing. However, curiosity won out because I think Meliora, Delina, and also Safanad are great. And Herod too. My judgment is certainly influenced by the comparison with these. I don't know if a blind test would have yielded the same result.
Short version: The fragrance creation, longevity, and sillage do not convince me with Cassili. I am not personally familiar with the bottle. But it is probably just as sleek as the other PdM bottles I have held multiple times at KadeWe. If one likes this style.
The first spray of Cassili left me disappointed: an almost cheap-looking fruit-flower mix. Somewhat arbitrary. However, this may well be due to my untrained nose. Upon closer sniffing and knowing what to look for, you can clearly perceive the plum. This is only mentioned as a heart note, but for me, it is already present upon spraying. The blackcurrant is immediately overshadowed by rose and flowers.
There is a somewhat interesting progression. For 1-2 hours, I perceive a floral sillage that fits well with spring, with a bit of fruit. Compared to Delina and Meliora, it is logically less fresh-sparkling-tart, but rather warm and deep, as it features plum instead of rhubarb or blackcurrant.
Unfortunately, the scent cloud does not really last long. I would like to claim that my inability to perceive it around me after 1-2 hours is not due to getting used to it. I can smell other fragrances throughout the entire day.
On the skin, there remains an extremely pleasant vanilla-sandalwood-tonka base. This is certainly not a new revolutionary invention. However, here it is particularly well-balanced, meaning the three notes blend beautifully warm, without any one wanting to stand out in any way.
There is already criticism of several of the PdM fragrances, I believe, that they come across as a bit too mainstream for niche perfumes in this price range, too little "special." In my opinion, this is the case with Cassili: the scent and also the performance are not bad. However, the fragrance is too little unique, having a rather low recognizability. The plum as a fruit note is not super-special and is somewhat too deliberately pleasingly integrated, surrounded by the flowers and the described base.
I miss the pizzazz here.
I thank Accolon for the testing opportunity and am very curious about your opinions.
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Red Berry Compote, not Mainstream Compote. But please with cream.
I have this little sample of Sí fiori that I could request for free online, and I am not at all pleased that it will soon be gone. And this for a fragrance that already has "flowers" in its name. Maybe I am more fond of flowers and blossoms than I previously thought? Or what’s going on here?
I believe food comparisons are not forbidden here. If they annoy you, just don’t continue reading!
To describe how I perceive the scent, it might help: I have to think of red berry compote with vanilla sauce or vanilla ice cream with hot berries + cream. And it’s like eating dessert too. I love the combination of sweet and tart.
It starts off fruity-tart and takes a very nice pleasant turn over totally bearable flowers to a warm-powdery base. For my taste, the fruits could remain more present at the expense of the "Fiori," as the name suggests. But I simply never smell just flowers, because they are immediately embedded in musk-vanilla. I don’t have (many) comparisons yet, but I have had the impression that in such cases patchouli often mixes in, which can make the scent feel generic. Because that’s how it is often created. Of course, musk and vanilla in the base are not a new invention, and the whole thing is not totally "unique" here. But those who like these notes - like I do - will find Sí fiori appealing. And some may not like patchouli in general.
The musk acts as a softener, is not particularly animalistic in my opinion, and is by no means overly intrusive, but it does bring a bit of sexiness along.
Not because Parfums de Marly are the measure of all things, rather because clear parallels exist in the scent notes, I want to compare Sí fiori with Meliora. And because I found the described "full berry bowl with vanilla musk cream" so helpful as a description (source: the Meliora statement by Freebird1968). I find that with Sí fiori it is less full, but there is more cream on top. The Armani scent is - I agree - more suitable for everyday/office wear, as it is more restrained and gentle, with decent longevity and sillage.
I am for layering with Meliora, mixing ratios depending on whether more fruits or more vanilla cream should be in the respective situation or according to mood.
For those who are not really into fruity scents, I explicitly recommend trying Sí fiori on its own.
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Sweet - (dry-herb) Grass
Every now and then, I find it a fun and interesting consideration to think about who might ever discover a particular fragrance as their signature scent. Especially with rather special scents like Vétyver Haïti. In this case, I imagine a student of horticulture and landscape design who is passionate about their field, or a small gardener who loves their little green oasis, seeking olfactory support while daydreaming at the office.
The scent is special, but not unpleasant. Due to its puristic nature, it is never overwhelming or even the slightest bit headache-inducing. I definitely find it unisex, completely ageless, and suitable for spring, summer, and early autumn. Speaking of which, in summer, one can hardly get enough of this top note: it is very fresh and zesty, wonderfully lemony, without any association with cleaning products. Unfortunately, I find it super short-lived, fading quickly. It immediately transitions into a green-earthy scent. I think of freshly mowed grass. But when the cut grass has been drying in the sun for a while. And the aforementioned small gardener has slightly turned over a small patch of soil. It doesn’t smell bad at all, but rather somehow natural. Down-to-earth. Haha... a pun on "ground..." In my opinion, the scent doesn’t have a particularly exciting progression.
The fragrance also has a dry aspect that reminds me of dunes. When you want to get to the beach and have to walk through vegetation.
I think you can smell that vetiver is a fragrance note that is actually derived from a plant or root. Vétyver Haïti has something very natural for me. I find the term sweet grass absolutely justified, as I distinctly perceive a very special sweetness alongside all the clearly present bitterness and earthiness.
The cedarwood, which wonderfully rounds off the base with warmth, feels familiar. Although I probably last consciously smelled cedarwood in elementary school when we built weaving frames out of that very wood. I found the scent so good that I somehow haven’t forgotten it to this day.
Speaking of the base. I still wonder if it might be a good idea to layer Vétyver Haïti with "Decadence" (Marc Jacobs) to make it less sweet and overwhelming. After all, it has vetiver in the base note.
Vétyver Haïti is not necessarily a candidate for purchase or a big compliment magnet, but I will use up my sample (many thanks for that to "Supi"!). Logically, the scent is worth trying for anyone who wants to know what vetiver smells like. The sweet grass is beautifully framed here as the main actor, resulting in a quite wearable fragrance. For now and then.