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Kill the king, all power to the mob
An idea that has already been implemented in France in the past.
Now it has happened, exactly what the perfume lover feared.
The king of designers has been executed, as was the custom in the past when someone basked too long in his glamor.
Its predecessor was the best in its price class. In class, performance, style - in all its values, so it was immediately clear to everyone that it wouldn't get any better.
If you were only hoping for slight changes or refinement, you will soon realize that this hope will be disappointed.
In fact, Dior is starting to make savings while at the same time optimizing profits.
The bottle, the jar is getting smaller, lighter and cheaper - even compared to the original 75ml version of its predecessor.
Its predecessor ended up at €1.50 per milliliter, this one is - and only if you take the larger bottle - at €2 per milliliter, so we have less material, but 1/3 more price.
Then the fragrance will probably be able to take it out, right?
After all, it will of course be very easy to simply improve on the best designer of the last 10 years, because after all, you're asking for a whole lot more money.
And then, of course, comes what was to be expected.
It didn't work. They probably didn't even try.
In fact, you play it safe, you take away the leather and dim the iris - a combination that made the predecessor unique and sometimes difficult to understand for fragrance novices.
And since LMVH/Dior is a corporation that is not interested in art or beautiful things, but in pure sales figures, you have to design things in such a way that you can appeal to as many buyers as possible and not just a small group. So you smooth out the fragrances in a contemporary way so that they are no longer so "difficult".
This idea with a smoothed iris and otherwise easy-to-understand fragrance notes has already been done by others.
You could call Le Male Le Parfum, Armani Code Parfum, even the Prada Lhomme range. The latter come from the L'Oreal universe and in terms of feel, we now have a fragrance that could fit into the L'Oreal universe.
Great successful fragrances that don't bother anyone, but the recognition value is also close to zero. So now you're supposed to spend €2 per ml to buy a fragrance that could have been released under L'Oreal.
This means that if you find this fragrance pleasant and reasonably priced, you would be willing to spend €250 on an Armani Code Flanker 125ml.
If you are one of these people, then you are in the right place with this fragrance in the future.
We now have the same thing that happened in the Sauva series.
The perfume is now the most superfluous product in the range - at least as long as they don't touch the Dior Homme Intense - (well, have the fans of DHI just got scared too?).
Now it remains - as in the Sauva series - to hope for an elixir that will fix everything.
Has Mr. Kurkdjian lost the joy and pleasure in his craft since his move to LMVH/Dior, because the Sauvage Eau Forte was also relatively bland, but this could/would be blamed on the fragrance concept or are the specifications of LMVH so strong that only unimaginative and cheapest possible mass-produced goods are allowed, because pure profit maximization is above all, because the simple customer feels special when the name Dior is on it?
The release of Dior's women's fragrances in 2024 did not generate any enthusiasm either, just as its new editions in the brand,
which bears his own name, are mere shadows of what he used to be able to achieve in his art.
The fragrance is a solid designer.
If this fragrance had appeared as a flanker in the gentleman range of LMVH's sister company Givenchy, then this fragrance would certainly even be celebrated as a great new release, only then you wouldn't (be able to) charge €2 per ml.
To my nose, this is the best way to describe it. The fresher iris and the interplay with coumarin, amber and vetiver give the impression of a Givenchy gentleman flanker with Code Parfum and Luna Rossa Black accords.
It is a younger fragrance which, unlike its predecessor, is aimed at those born well after the year 2000 and will also find many followers and fans there. It is only just above average in its power and radiance, I have been wearing a different fragrance since this morning and I sprayed this one on 6 hours later, at no point until now has it been able to assert itself against this morning's fragrance.
A great idea in itself in the design world, as a replacement for its predecessor it is inadequate and insufficient in terms of price-per-ml ratio.
Now it has happened, exactly what the perfume lover feared.
The king of designers has been executed, as was the custom in the past when someone basked too long in his glamor.
Its predecessor was the best in its price class. In class, performance, style - in all its values, so it was immediately clear to everyone that it wouldn't get any better.
If you were only hoping for slight changes or refinement, you will soon realize that this hope will be disappointed.
In fact, Dior is starting to make savings while at the same time optimizing profits.
The bottle, the jar is getting smaller, lighter and cheaper - even compared to the original 75ml version of its predecessor.
Its predecessor ended up at €1.50 per milliliter, this one is - and only if you take the larger bottle - at €2 per milliliter, so we have less material, but 1/3 more price.
Then the fragrance will probably be able to take it out, right?
After all, it will of course be very easy to simply improve on the best designer of the last 10 years, because after all, you're asking for a whole lot more money.
And then, of course, comes what was to be expected.
It didn't work. They probably didn't even try.
In fact, you play it safe, you take away the leather and dim the iris - a combination that made the predecessor unique and sometimes difficult to understand for fragrance novices.
And since LMVH/Dior is a corporation that is not interested in art or beautiful things, but in pure sales figures, you have to design things in such a way that you can appeal to as many buyers as possible and not just a small group. So you smooth out the fragrances in a contemporary way so that they are no longer so "difficult".
This idea with a smoothed iris and otherwise easy-to-understand fragrance notes has already been done by others.
You could call Le Male Le Parfum, Armani Code Parfum, even the Prada Lhomme range. The latter come from the L'Oreal universe and in terms of feel, we now have a fragrance that could fit into the L'Oreal universe.
Great successful fragrances that don't bother anyone, but the recognition value is also close to zero. So now you're supposed to spend €2 per ml to buy a fragrance that could have been released under L'Oreal.
This means that if you find this fragrance pleasant and reasonably priced, you would be willing to spend €250 on an Armani Code Flanker 125ml.
If you are one of these people, then you are in the right place with this fragrance in the future.
We now have the same thing that happened in the Sauva series.
The perfume is now the most superfluous product in the range - at least as long as they don't touch the Dior Homme Intense - (well, have the fans of DHI just got scared too?).
Now it remains - as in the Sauva series - to hope for an elixir that will fix everything.
Has Mr. Kurkdjian lost the joy and pleasure in his craft since his move to LMVH/Dior, because the Sauvage Eau Forte was also relatively bland, but this could/would be blamed on the fragrance concept or are the specifications of LMVH so strong that only unimaginative and cheapest possible mass-produced goods are allowed, because pure profit maximization is above all, because the simple customer feels special when the name Dior is on it?
The release of Dior's women's fragrances in 2024 did not generate any enthusiasm either, just as its new editions in the brand,
which bears his own name, are mere shadows of what he used to be able to achieve in his art.
The fragrance is a solid designer.
If this fragrance had appeared as a flanker in the gentleman range of LMVH's sister company Givenchy, then this fragrance would certainly even be celebrated as a great new release, only then you wouldn't (be able to) charge €2 per ml.
To my nose, this is the best way to describe it. The fresher iris and the interplay with coumarin, amber and vetiver give the impression of a Givenchy gentleman flanker with Code Parfum and Luna Rossa Black accords.
It is a younger fragrance which, unlike its predecessor, is aimed at those born well after the year 2000 and will also find many followers and fans there. It is only just above average in its power and radiance, I have been wearing a different fragrance since this morning and I sprayed this one on 6 hours later, at no point until now has it been able to assert itself against this morning's fragrance.
A great idea in itself in the design world, as a replacement for its predecessor it is inadequate and insufficient in terms of price-per-ml ratio.
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An Eros for everyone who doesn't like Eros
Since even the very last late bloomer should have outgrown the usual Eros DNA by the age of 17 at the latest, this is good news for now.
The fruity, citrusy opening reminds some people of the filling of the yellow version of a well-known sweet.
To my nose, this is the sweetest moment in the fragrance. Anything else would also be unfortunate, as its other DNA makes it more of a summer fragrance.
Unfortunately, with its September release (some stores were probably a few days too quick), it is 3 months too late to really score as a bestseller this year.
After the candy sweetness, it unfolds as a summer fragrance and then - in contrast to its penetrating, pubescent brothers - turns into a pleasant everyday fragrance. But that's exactly what will be the second disappointment in our bubble - the first will be for those who wanted another children's fragrance.
After all, this pleasing old-fashioned DNA is not a completely new invention. Anyone who has something Aventuesque in their collection will be reminded of strong parallels.
Does this make it a bad fragrance? No. Something like this was still missing from Versace's current range. Is this fragrance a good fragrance? In my nose, yes, without ifs and buts!
Is it made for us freaks, probably not; it is more likely to inspire someone whose collection has not yet far exceeded 5 bottles.
For someone who doesn't come from the perfume bubble and is looking for a more grown-up fragrance than the standard Eros, this is the one for you.
Does it fit into the range? Probably not, but in terms of marketing, it may be easier to establish a fragrance in a well-known range than to launch a stand-alone product.
My conclusion, I am delighted with this fragrance. Yesterday, when it arrived, it put a smile on my face and I wore it to the office today. Now, almost 8 hours later, there is nothing left of it on my skin. It probably wore off on my skin after about 6 hours. So it's not as long-lasting as others in the range. Nevertheless, I assume that it will find a lot of fans, especially among those who wouldn't buy the blue brothers, so some will even crown it the best of its series (maybe me too).
Stick your nose in and get an idea. For a 2024 release from the designers, it's a positive surprise. But if you're expecting a party beast like its bratty brothers, then you won't be happy with it.
The fruity, citrusy opening reminds some people of the filling of the yellow version of a well-known sweet.
To my nose, this is the sweetest moment in the fragrance. Anything else would also be unfortunate, as its other DNA makes it more of a summer fragrance.
Unfortunately, with its September release (some stores were probably a few days too quick), it is 3 months too late to really score as a bestseller this year.
After the candy sweetness, it unfolds as a summer fragrance and then - in contrast to its penetrating, pubescent brothers - turns into a pleasant everyday fragrance. But that's exactly what will be the second disappointment in our bubble - the first will be for those who wanted another children's fragrance.
After all, this pleasing old-fashioned DNA is not a completely new invention. Anyone who has something Aventuesque in their collection will be reminded of strong parallels.
Does this make it a bad fragrance? No. Something like this was still missing from Versace's current range. Is this fragrance a good fragrance? In my nose, yes, without ifs and buts!
Is it made for us freaks, probably not; it is more likely to inspire someone whose collection has not yet far exceeded 5 bottles.
For someone who doesn't come from the perfume bubble and is looking for a more grown-up fragrance than the standard Eros, this is the one for you.
Does it fit into the range? Probably not, but in terms of marketing, it may be easier to establish a fragrance in a well-known range than to launch a stand-alone product.
My conclusion, I am delighted with this fragrance. Yesterday, when it arrived, it put a smile on my face and I wore it to the office today. Now, almost 8 hours later, there is nothing left of it on my skin. It probably wore off on my skin after about 6 hours. So it's not as long-lasting as others in the range. Nevertheless, I assume that it will find a lot of fans, especially among those who wouldn't buy the blue brothers, so some will even crown it the best of its series (maybe me too).
Stick your nose in and get an idea. For a 2024 release from the designers, it's a positive surprise. But if you're expecting a party beast like its bratty brothers, then you won't be happy with it.
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A bianchiesque Dior Homme perfume?
In anticipation of vigorous rebuttal, I create this provocative thesis.
When I sprayed on the fragrance yesterday and today, I felt reminded of the good old Dior Homme DNA. For niche fans probably "the deep fall" of an artist, for me: a beautiful moment.
We all know her iris butter from her fragrances, which now evokes associations with Dior Homme perfume in my nose and on my skin at the top note for the first 1-2 hours. A sweet powdery iris note emerges. Amber, benzoin and woods complement the warmth. Nevertheless, arises in conjunction with castoreum also (for me only in the background) a slight animalism from, which we know from some other of their fragrances much more present.
Exactly this (for many known) interaction will perhaps disappoint the niche head.
"She sees herself as an artist, after all. Why such a known DNA?" But wasn't this DNA when it was launched also art? Why not play with a known DNA and give it a personal touch? (because this is still undoubtedly recognizable).
In my opinion, however, it reflects the interplay between Orient and Occident - or as she describes it "East meets West" - in an appropriate way.
In the progression to the base, the players recurring in her fragrances are recognizable, so that the longer the fragrance is worn, it is also more and more recognizable that this fragrance is also a bianchi fragrance.
Since other of their fragrances often oscillate between demanding and difficult, I think that this fragrance is suitable if you want to sniff into this niche brand for the first time. He does not overwhelm the nose in the prelude, but makes in its course some what you can also experience with their other fragrances.
For me, this fragrance is the ideal "beginner bianchi". For fans of their more strenuous works probably a work that chums up to the uniformed mainstream.
When I sprayed on the fragrance yesterday and today, I felt reminded of the good old Dior Homme DNA. For niche fans probably "the deep fall" of an artist, for me: a beautiful moment.
We all know her iris butter from her fragrances, which now evokes associations with Dior Homme perfume in my nose and on my skin at the top note for the first 1-2 hours. A sweet powdery iris note emerges. Amber, benzoin and woods complement the warmth. Nevertheless, arises in conjunction with castoreum also (for me only in the background) a slight animalism from, which we know from some other of their fragrances much more present.
Exactly this (for many known) interaction will perhaps disappoint the niche head.
"She sees herself as an artist, after all. Why such a known DNA?" But wasn't this DNA when it was launched also art? Why not play with a known DNA and give it a personal touch? (because this is still undoubtedly recognizable).
In my opinion, however, it reflects the interplay between Orient and Occident - or as she describes it "East meets West" - in an appropriate way.
In the progression to the base, the players recurring in her fragrances are recognizable, so that the longer the fragrance is worn, it is also more and more recognizable that this fragrance is also a bianchi fragrance.
Since other of their fragrances often oscillate between demanding and difficult, I think that this fragrance is suitable if you want to sniff into this niche brand for the first time. He does not overwhelm the nose in the prelude, but makes in its course some what you can also experience with their other fragrances.
For me, this fragrance is the ideal "beginner bianchi". For fans of their more strenuous works probably a work that chums up to the uniformed mainstream.
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Honor the king of designers
Years ago I wrote a song of praise for the "little" brother.
Now it's time to give this fragrance the honor it deserves.
Was it possible after the Intense (no matter from which version), which was my favorite fragrance for years before, once again put a class on it?
It was possible: 2/3 Intense + leather and a pinch of wood; finished is a work of art.
King of the designers; yes, unfortunately also from the price.
One had to fear during the optical revision of the complete series for the introduction of DH2020 in the meantime that he disappears completely, but he is just like Dior Homme Original (until 2019 known as Dior Homme) at Dior directly to get.
In mainstream stores and online, the two otherwise make themselves quite scarce.
For a royal price of about 135€ for a designer, however, it is still available - now in a 100ml version.
This fragrance is the more adult and somewhat darker brother of the Dior Homme Intense.
Do you have to have both? I answer that with a clear: YES!
It is, in addition to the powdery makeup box, which you know from the DHI also stronger, it is heavier, it is a little woody and it is beautiful, but not too intrusive leather.
If you like fragrances - like me - something more expressive, so with more than just 3-4 sprays wears, then the late autumn and winter - so everything around the Christmas market season - is the perfect period to wear this fragrance.
If the lady then still wears something vanilla as a counterpoint you have together the perfect Christmas market combo and then only the mulled wine with shot is missing.
The shelf life is with me at loose 12 hours. In the first 4 notices him the environment even outside. Even in the windy, wet November you are addressed by the company at a walk through the streets, what you wear so beautiful today.
On the clothes and other objects he holds forever.
If I could keep only 3 fragrances, then he would be one of them.
Is it possible to buy it blind? If you like DHI, Valentino Uomo Intense or similar fragrances (can also imagine leather and woods well in the further course of the fragrance) then you can buy this fragrance blind.
Since he is hardly advertised and is mainly about Dior itself to get, I advise everyone: get him. It remains to fear that he disappears at some point and until then we all need at least 2 bunker flacons.
Now it's time to give this fragrance the honor it deserves.
Was it possible after the Intense (no matter from which version), which was my favorite fragrance for years before, once again put a class on it?
It was possible: 2/3 Intense + leather and a pinch of wood; finished is a work of art.
King of the designers; yes, unfortunately also from the price.
One had to fear during the optical revision of the complete series for the introduction of DH2020 in the meantime that he disappears completely, but he is just like Dior Homme Original (until 2019 known as Dior Homme) at Dior directly to get.
In mainstream stores and online, the two otherwise make themselves quite scarce.
For a royal price of about 135€ for a designer, however, it is still available - now in a 100ml version.
This fragrance is the more adult and somewhat darker brother of the Dior Homme Intense.
Do you have to have both? I answer that with a clear: YES!
It is, in addition to the powdery makeup box, which you know from the DHI also stronger, it is heavier, it is a little woody and it is beautiful, but not too intrusive leather.
If you like fragrances - like me - something more expressive, so with more than just 3-4 sprays wears, then the late autumn and winter - so everything around the Christmas market season - is the perfect period to wear this fragrance.
If the lady then still wears something vanilla as a counterpoint you have together the perfect Christmas market combo and then only the mulled wine with shot is missing.
The shelf life is with me at loose 12 hours. In the first 4 notices him the environment even outside. Even in the windy, wet November you are addressed by the company at a walk through the streets, what you wear so beautiful today.
On the clothes and other objects he holds forever.
If I could keep only 3 fragrances, then he would be one of them.
Is it possible to buy it blind? If you like DHI, Valentino Uomo Intense or similar fragrances (can also imagine leather and woods well in the further course of the fragrance) then you can buy this fragrance blind.
Since he is hardly advertised and is mainly about Dior itself to get, I advise everyone: get him. It remains to fear that he disappears at some point and until then we all need at least 2 bunker flacons.
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If he is too strong, you are too weak
Since I own all of the fragrances of the series that can be worn by men, I will build my comments for these fragrances similar.
Fragance One fragrances are known to be the fragrances of Youtuber Jeremy Fragrance.
In the case of public figures, of course, a devaluation of the person or the products is often given, if these people are contentious.
Presumably, to be considered in America, one had to market an expensive product. This seems to be one reason that the retail prices of his fragrances are nevertheless far above what I (presumably most) am willing to spend on such a fragrance.
I will price this fragrance as much as I actually spent on this and that was noticeably below 140 EUR, so it does not compete against niche sizes or wonderful fragrance compositions, which one would expect at its normal price of 329€.
Should you know Office or Date from him and consider (too) strong, stay away from this fragrance.
He has the "power" often mentioned by him, and especially if you wear more than 2-3 spritzes, this grows to a sick extent.
I once made me the fun to wear this fragrance in the evening in the outdoor restaurant in the Centro Oberhausen, when I was out with friends. One of my companions got sneezing fits, the one sitting opposite me also perceived him very strongly and the waitress also spoke to me on a yet very pentrant strong fragrance. This fragrance develops a strong projection and sillage.
Now to the fragrance, he meets exactly my taste and I find him great.
Craftsmanship, however, it is questionable for me that -apart from the synthetic-looking opening - it seems as if the Mr. Morillas in the first half of the fragrance has sold his composition 2x. Because after the moment of spraying on the first hours of the fragrance seems like a 3x as strong version of No Limits, then later prevail guaiac wood, a lot of leather and other things that make the fragrance for me very nice.
However, I can understand that you can be disappointed when you spend a lot of money on a fragrance and it behaves in the first half like a fragrance you could have for less money (you would just have to bathe in it to get a comparable vibe).
Out the back there are also strong Gucci Guilty Absolute vibes, this is also a fragrance that is not known to flatter a beginner's nose, which is probably why it was discontinued this year due to its sales figures (it can't be me, I still have 2 bottles).
Also a Morillasduft...how surprising.....
The fragrance lasts well over 12, rather 18 hours, on clothes or other things that come into contact with it, it lasts forever.
If the name Black Tie makes you think of a serious evening among businessmen, then the name of the fragrance is also misleading.
Presumably, the name should express something else, that this suit is rather the one who does not care what the others do or think about him, but he does what he wants, perhaps more in the direction of "American Psycho".
If I understood Jeremy correctly in his videos, he has mentioned more than 1x that the fragrance is too strong for him, so he does not wear the at all himself, however, his brother likes this fragrance.
I like this strong fragrance and I like to wear it (well so often not, but I also have over 100 fragrances). But if I wear it, then with the conscious feeling that it is perceived and not only positive, because I like that. I do not want to please everyone and I do not care how my environment feels about it.
I love fragrances with very very much power.
For me, the bottles are also in total contrast to what you want to spend with this product in such a price range.
The bottles and the packaging are well seen minimalist and have nothing to do with a luxury product.
Fragance One fragrances are known to be the fragrances of Youtuber Jeremy Fragrance.
In the case of public figures, of course, a devaluation of the person or the products is often given, if these people are contentious.
Presumably, to be considered in America, one had to market an expensive product. This seems to be one reason that the retail prices of his fragrances are nevertheless far above what I (presumably most) am willing to spend on such a fragrance.
I will price this fragrance as much as I actually spent on this and that was noticeably below 140 EUR, so it does not compete against niche sizes or wonderful fragrance compositions, which one would expect at its normal price of 329€.
Should you know Office or Date from him and consider (too) strong, stay away from this fragrance.
He has the "power" often mentioned by him, and especially if you wear more than 2-3 spritzes, this grows to a sick extent.
I once made me the fun to wear this fragrance in the evening in the outdoor restaurant in the Centro Oberhausen, when I was out with friends. One of my companions got sneezing fits, the one sitting opposite me also perceived him very strongly and the waitress also spoke to me on a yet very pentrant strong fragrance. This fragrance develops a strong projection and sillage.
Now to the fragrance, he meets exactly my taste and I find him great.
Craftsmanship, however, it is questionable for me that -apart from the synthetic-looking opening - it seems as if the Mr. Morillas in the first half of the fragrance has sold his composition 2x. Because after the moment of spraying on the first hours of the fragrance seems like a 3x as strong version of No Limits, then later prevail guaiac wood, a lot of leather and other things that make the fragrance for me very nice.
However, I can understand that you can be disappointed when you spend a lot of money on a fragrance and it behaves in the first half like a fragrance you could have for less money (you would just have to bathe in it to get a comparable vibe).
Out the back there are also strong Gucci Guilty Absolute vibes, this is also a fragrance that is not known to flatter a beginner's nose, which is probably why it was discontinued this year due to its sales figures (it can't be me, I still have 2 bottles).
Also a Morillasduft...how surprising.....
The fragrance lasts well over 12, rather 18 hours, on clothes or other things that come into contact with it, it lasts forever.
If the name Black Tie makes you think of a serious evening among businessmen, then the name of the fragrance is also misleading.
Presumably, the name should express something else, that this suit is rather the one who does not care what the others do or think about him, but he does what he wants, perhaps more in the direction of "American Psycho".
If I understood Jeremy correctly in his videos, he has mentioned more than 1x that the fragrance is too strong for him, so he does not wear the at all himself, however, his brother likes this fragrance.
I like this strong fragrance and I like to wear it (well so often not, but I also have over 100 fragrances). But if I wear it, then with the conscious feeling that it is perceived and not only positive, because I like that. I do not want to please everyone and I do not care how my environment feels about it.
I love fragrances with very very much power.
For me, the bottles are also in total contrast to what you want to spend with this product in such a price range.
The bottles and the packaging are well seen minimalist and have nothing to do with a luxury product.
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