MauWitch

I had been searching for some time for my perfect lily-of-the-valley and hyacinth perfumes. Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens and Muguet Fleuri by Oriza L. Legrand were the frontrunners in those categories, but after smelling this re-release, they have been pushed to second place.

It captures the clean and pure essence of those tiny bell flowers nestled among crisp leaves, accompanied by the slightly spicy, intensely green notes of the trumpet-shaped blossoms (in my mind, these are white muscari hyacinths). It certainly possesses a faint acetone-like quality which doesn’t bother me at all; actually I think it enhances both floral notes.

Only very few of Kurkdjian’s creations are to my taste (notables being Guerlain’s Rose Barbare and Dior’s New Look from two years ago), and I was genuinely surprised by how much this version improves upon the 2009 Diorissimo, especially since I dislike heavy ylang ylang sensation.

The freshest rose I've ever smelled. It's as if the petals of a centifolia were covered in the dew of the first rain after winter. The most realistic (homemade) rosewater, having the quality of flower water left for a few days, evokes nostalgia, reminding me of my great-grandmother. Perfect for spring days and even summer, though this is a mature rose.

Absolutely gorgeous. The cherry blossom is present from beginning to end, and the combination with the iris makes me imagine a woman under a pink tree, applying a touch of blush, wearing a hand-painted silk ensemble. Rose Chérie is somewhat similar in terms of the cherry effect, but I like this one much more (I find less sweetness in Comète).

I used to think I'd never like this perfume. My first experience was with the EDP, which I still find very loud and with the orange blossom note too prominent and suffocating, even bordering on sour. But trying the EDT changed my perspective.

Here, the marine notes and jasmine completely mask the orange blossom, allowing the tuberose to shine and be the star of the entire fragrance. It's green, creamy, delicate yet sensual, fresh, and natural. In my mind, I picture silk, a mother pearl shell, and a feeling of self-love, happiness, and freedom.

A complete masterpiece. Animalistic in its leathery depth thanks to the prominent labdanum, patchouli adds body, and the vanilla is not sweet in any way. I appreciate that the citrus notes are not overpowering; they simply brighten the composition.

I see a hint of Shalimar, but it's very subtle. This is an animalic, seductive, and sophisticated amber. I see the image of a very self-assured person (regardless of gender). It reminds me of jazz with polished yet dangerous makeup, antique gold, and a sense of power.