Micscent

As a newcomer here, I'm going to try my hand at a series of comments. This is the fourth part.

The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)

Fragrance no. 4 is: Colonia Ambra by Acqua di Parma
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, (2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract by Atkinsons, (3) Lyric Man by Amouage)

The house, the perfumer and the shopping
François Demachy (*1949) is a "primal rock" of the fragrance industry. And not only because he grew up in Grasse and thus grew up with the scent of lavender and jasmine, but also because he was already active in so many well-known (scented) houses and created various classics. So with Mane (like also Christine Nagel, see 24 Old Bond Street), Chanel (from 1978 and created there with Antaeus (1981) my "all-time-favorite" classic), Givenchy, Fendi, Ungaro, Tiffany and of course Dior. There he created almost all the Dior fragrances of my youth, like Égoiste (1990), Eau Sauvage and Fahrenheit. It is interesting in this context that in 2013 François Demachy had Christian Diors (the Château de La Colle Noire, half an hour's drive from Grasse), the old, heavily dilapidated country estate bought again in order to set up a new creation laboratory there and grow flowers himself. He wanted to be the master himself about which ingredients are used in the brand's fragrances and which raw materials are used. Since 2006, François Demachy has been head of development for the cosmetics and perfume division of the giant LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy), which means "luxury" for everything, and he has been Dior's "head nose". Since (like Dior) Acqua di Parma also belongs to the LVMH Group, it is obvious that he also plays a decisive role in the design of fragrances. The first fragrance of the later company "Acqua di Parma" was called "Colonia" and was created in a small perfumery in the historic old town of Parma in 1916. After several changes of ownership, the LVMH Group took over the company in 2001. The logo of the brand is still the coat of arms of Marie Louise, Duchess of Parma (1816-1847), who played an important role in the development of the region of Parma. For the sample of Colonia Ambra I would like to thank my favourite perfumery specialist of my trust!

The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
In contrast to Lyric Man, with whom Colonia Ambra (2015) has some similarities in the fragrance pyramid, the start here is dark, resinous, slightly sweet, and in any case slightly wood-tobacco-like. The here therefore rather sweet bergamot is "refreshed" at the beginning somewhat by the orange. I'll take it straight away. For me, the start and the further course of the fragrance remind me very strongly of Bulgari Black (1998). The following floral note (Bulgari Black by jasmine), here by the rose, is somewhat subordinate, but (in combination with the bergamot) brings a beautiful softness, harmony and sensuality to the fragrance. This impression is reinforced (as already with Lumière Noire pour Homme) by Patchouli, which takes the whole thing in an even more earthy, balsamic and velvety direction. Cedar and sandalwood and naturally vanilla harmonize on a slightly sweet base with memories of the Orient. All very warm and pleasant. Incidentally, the scent of sandalwood (as well as patchouli) is said to have an aphrodisiac effect. An ingredient contained in it should smell exactly like a male hormone. In other words, sandalwood is said to be very similar to the scent that men send out as an attractant. I haven't noticed anything yet, well. Instead of the musk at Lyric Man we find at Colonia Ambra the eponym as animal secretion in the base. Ambra (also amber) is actually a grey, wax-like metabolic product from the digestive tract of the sperm whale (nowadays almost exclusively produced synthetically for reasons of species protection). The amber combines and varies the effect between balsamic-warm, woody-tobacco-like up to very slightly bouquet-like. Ambergris (as well as musk) are very often found in the base of fragrances.

The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
Colonia Ambra starts very strong, quickly becomes harmonious with a balsamic, woody-tack-like, possibly even a slightly leathery note (this in contrast to the first three rose scents, which are all rather flowery-spicy). The fragrance flattens relatively strongly, which makes it very suitable - at least for me - for daily use in the office. I stick to the fact that he reminds me very strongly of Bulgari Black (for me a "twin fragrance"), and that he is very different from Lyric Man despite very similar fragrances in the composition, not least because of the very restrained rose. I find the average rating of 6.8 somewhat low and increase to 7.5.

(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite
(3) Lyric Man - The "pure" Rose
(4) Colonia Ambra - The "warm (rose) wood"

As a newcomer here, I'm going to try my hand at a series of comments. This is the third part.

The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)
Fragrance No. 3 is: Lyric Man by Amouage
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, (2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract by Atkinsons)

The house, the perfumer and the shopping
First of all: I think the history of the perfume house is fantastic.
Amouage is the Chanel of the Orient - and something like a state perfume of Oman. A bottle full of national pride (so in an article in the world from 2008). Amouage was founded in 1983 by His Majesty the Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said in Maskat. The foundation (as I believe the Royal Opera House Muscat, founded in 2011) stands for the modernization, globalization and opening of Oman to the West. The Sultan commissioned the perfumer Guy Robert, who had already worked for houses such as Hermès, Dior and Gucci, to create a new fragrance. For a while, Guy Robert's Amouage Gold fragrance was the world's most expensive perfume. The name Amouage is a word creation from the French "Amour" and the Arabic word "amwaj", which means "wave". Amouage thus means in a broader sense "the waves of emotions" and bears the subtitle "The Gift of Kings" because the Sultan presents it to his state guests as a gift. Parfumeur Daniel Visentin began his training in 1976. In addition to Lyric Man, he also co-developed Myths Man for Amouage and is one of the creative heads of the M.INT label founded in 2012. I broke new ground with the purchase of Lyric Man and bought it here in the Souk as bottling. So my special thanks go to Tesuo. Has worked great and super fast - Thank you!

The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
For Lyric Man, the history and vision of Amouage is divided into two halves according to gender. Not only do the two fragrances have numerous scents in common, they also represent the seamless link between traditional French perfumery and Eastern aesthetics. In addition, it becomes clear that the "male rose" has been worn by men from the Middle East for much longer (perhaps since the time when roses became a precious commodity on the trade routes centuries ago). Lyric Man starts fresh, citric, penetrating. The bergamot is tangy, fresh and bitter (not as usual sometimes slightly sweet-fruity) and is reinforced by the lime. Already very fast the for me overwhelming wonderful pure rose unfolds. The rose is refined by three components: "Oriental", by the spices nutmeg and saffron, "green" by the galbanum (which already played a corresponding role at 24 Old Bond Street) and "fresh-fruity" by the orange blossoms and the ginger. I could not claim that I can "smell" every single component, but the three described (basic) components are unmistakable. The saffron comes out the strongest for me. The spice is extracted from the crocus species of the same name, namely from the pistil threads of the flowers. Saffron exudes an intense, sweet-spicy aroma with slightly bitter notes. It is one of the most precious spices in the world. As the fragrance progresses, the angelica note unfolds. Angelica is obtained from the dried roots of angelica (also angelica). According to a legend, the name Angelica goes back to the archangel Gabriel, who, when the plague raged in Europe, appeared in the dreams of many people and recommended Angelica to them for healing. Allegedly, Angelica was chewed by the people so that they wouldn't get infected. In some cultures the oil is also called "Holy Spirit Oil" or "Oil of Angels". In fact, it was one of the few herbs that we exported to the Orient in the Middle Ages (usually the other way round). Angelica is characterised by a musk-like, herbaceous peppery and aromatic-balsamic smell. In my opinion, it also meant something of today (very positive). Sandalwood and vanilla then form the basis. Here however with the resinous incense (see also with 24 Old Bond Street) and the jaw a masculine chord is supplemented. That's round, but still angular.

The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
After the loud fresh "white" aspects, the carrier remains with a calm warm, "dark red" part of the rose. This way there are some special effects whose volume decreases so that the focus never deviates from this "rose king". The fragrance needs some self-confidence because the rose is intense, but the fragrance is never intrusive. Lyric Man is spicier than Lumière Noire pour Homme, but has significantly more rose than 24 Old Bond Street. This looks very "pure" and has a good Sillage and durability. My favorite "so far".

(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite
(3) Lyric Man - The "pure" Rose

As a newcomer here, I'm going to try my hand at a series of comments. This is the second part.

The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)

Fragrance No. 2 is: 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract from Atkinsons
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme vom Maison Francis Kurkdjian)

The house, the perfumer and the shopping
It was in 1799 that the Britishman James Atkinson discovered the business with fragrances for himself. The spicy, warm Eau de Cologne, which he developed in 1800, became the favourite fragrance of King George IV, who appointed Atkinson the official perfumer of the British royal family. After very successful years, the house had to go through much more difficult times until today. These included closures, several sales in the early 2000s and most recently the takeover by the Italian cosmetics company Perfume Holding (from Procter & Gamble) in 2008. Since the relaunch of the brand in September 2013, however, things have been going "steeply uphill" again. The perfumers Christine Nagel and Violaine Collas both worked for the cosmetics company Mane in the 2010s. The Swiss Christine Nagel (*1959) has been working for Hermés since 2013 and became its head perfumer in 2015. She celebrated her premiere with the "loud" rhubarb Écarlate and furthermore she created my super summer scent Citron Noir. The French Violaine Collas (*1976) (still with Mane) studied (like Francis Kurkdjian) at ISIPCA. In an interview she named the flacon design of the Atkinsons Collection as her favourite. I bought 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract (*2014) on recommendation in the "perfumery of my trust".

The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
The fragrance is named after the label's ancient headquarters and is said to be "a bow" to the fragrance of 1800. The Old Bond Street is the southern part of the Bond Street in London's noble district Mayfair and belongs to one of the most exclusive shopping streets at all. With juniper, rose, black tea and whiskey, the slogan "Very British" is somewhat worked on with the "fence post", but one after the other.
The fragrance starts with a very spicy rose. The juniper, which belongs to the evergreen cypress plants, should bring in the spice. The essential oil from the mixture of juniper berries and needles exudes a green and herbaceous conifer scent. Galbanum adds to this effect. Galbanum is an ancient medicinal plant found in Central Asia. The galbanum balm is extracted from it and the essential oil is extracted from it. Galbanum is very often used for the effect just described in the top note of fragrances (incidentally, galbanum was used to mummify the dead in ancient Egypt). Besides, I mean, to recognize in the beginning also still another sharpness of the cardamom. In addition, both juniper and galbanum provide both freshness (at the beginning) and a more balsamic development (later). With the teen notes, the whole thing becomes milder and the incense additionally supports the ever warmer, balsamic-spicy, possibly also slightly resinous base. Incense resin (Olibanum) is extracted from the incense tree (India, Arabia and parts of Africa). The incense production lasts several months and its yield depends strongly on age, size and condition of the tree. Also already in ancient Egypt incense was used as incense and remedy. After approx. 2 hours the fragrance gets a light sweet touch. This is partly due to the tonka bean, of course, and partly to the smoky wooden whiskey. (Note: more on the tonka bean at the earliest opportunity)

The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
For me the rose in 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract goes on a beautifully composed, special journey from spicy fresh to balsamic warm. All aspects are preserved on this journey, because all fragrance components interlock very beautifully. The Sillage is not so strong, which is quite good for the use in the job - at least for me. I'm glad I have the scent and I use it a lot. Over 80 previous reviews with an 8, and I'm sticking to that.

(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite

P.S. Thanks for the great answers and ratings for my first comment. That spurs.

As a newcomer here, I'm going to try a series of comments. I hope they please.

The motivation, the idea and the criteria:
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I / I will therefore have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke by Penhaligon, idea originated in London)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)

Getting started: (1) Lumière Noir pour homme by the Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The house, the perfumer and the shop:
Francis Kurkdjian (*1969) grew up in a suburb in the east of Paris. He received training in dance and classical piano, but then decided to become a perfumer. In 1993, he completed his training at ISIPCA, one of the most recognized perfume schools in the world. Shortly afterwards (at the age of 25 (!) he created his first fragrance, Le Male, by Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the best-selling men's fragrances in the world (also an essential fragrance of my youth, I found enormously erotic). Since then, Francis Kurkdjian has created over 40 fragrances for renowned brands such as Escada, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Giorgio Armani. Finally he founded his own perfume house "Maison Francis Kurkdjian" in 2009 (together with Marc Chaya). The house wants to bring out "enchanting" yet "precise" creations ("codes"). According to his own statement, the focus is on "purity, refinement, timelessness and the audacity of a newly invented classicism". Lumière Noir pour Homme (* 2009) I first got as a sample in the "perfumery of my trust" (a big thank you to "love")

The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience:
Lumière Notre pour Homme starts with a clear rose. The mugwort probably gives the rose a stronger, slightly green tone. Mugwort is cultivated for the perfume industry above all in Morocco, Algeria, France and the regions of the former Yugoslavia (otherwise the common mugwort is used as a spice plant for fatty, heavy meat dishes (!). The oil is obtained from the dried whole cabbage and is then called "Essence d'Armoise". The Essence d'Armoise is combined with cumin (or cumin). The oil is obtained from the dried and ground seeds of the small plant that is native to Mediterranean countries, China and India. Cumin is a note that is used in many men's fragrances and, in my opinion, is responsible for the intensification of the rose and the further development of the warm basic tone of the fragrance. Without anticipating too much, it should be noted that cumin will also be encountered in Déclaration d'un Soir, where "a dozen roses for men" are combined with cardamom. Francis Kurkdian combines cumin in Absolue pour le Soir with musk to create an intense fragrance experience. After this first impression, a soft patchouli takes the lead in the overall impression. This patchouli is earthy and above all balsamic and velvety, rather not woody as usual. From my point of view, not sweet at all. Patchouli is a very cutting component of fragrances: As an essential oil extracted from the initially dried leaves, it is used as a fixer and ensures long-lasting adhesion and thus effect. After about an hour at the latest, a delicate, harmoniously soft rose/patchouli combination unfolds completely. Even over 10 hours after spraying, this wonderful combination remains unchanged. In addition, there is the further developed Essence d'Armoise with a very light note of black tea. I cannot personally perceive the cinnamon directly, but if necessary it underlines the warmth of the scent. The whole thing is in any case incredibly noble and soft, but also a bit feminine.

The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application:
Not only because I wanted to test here, I constantly smelled on my wrist all day long. Perhaps not suitable for every occasion and also not everyone's thing, but noble, round and simply well done. I can understand the high rating of 8.4 at almost 500 ratings very well and give an 8, and that only because for my practice use a little too feminine for a pure men's fragrance.

(1) Lumière Noir pour Homme - The noble softie

P.S. The final fragrances for "a dozen roses for men" have not yet been finalized. I would be happy to receive tips and suggestions.