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Maison Oriental
I received a sample of this highly interesting fragrance from a dear "Parfuma" in exchange. For many "noses," it should smell like Advent and Christmas, but for me, it is a spicy oriental that takes a completely different direction than "Rosenoud," "Loukohum," or tobacco-leather. Here, spices, oranges, and resins take center stage.
It starts off very clove-heavy with a fantastic candied orange note in tow. It then becomes almost hot-thanks to the grainy cinnamon or cinnamon bark. It transitions into a woody-balsamic phase, with dark elemi resin coming into play. Fortunately, the vanilla is subtle and dark, smelling not "artificial" like Dr. Oetker, but like it just came fresh from the pod.
The tobacco has a hint of oriental pipe-herb-sweet, smoky, and aromatic. A touch of amber adds depth. And above all, it is not too sweet. However, it does not live up to its name-rather than "Nuit à Salzbourg," it should be called "Maison Oriental," as it smells very much like a well-spiced bazaar :-))
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Many "Colors" Are Good for the Nose ;-))
This beautiful "Oriental" is largely unknown and belongs to a small, manageable community of enthusiasts. Therefore, it is already a fragrance that you "won't find on every corner." And for that reason, it is something special, especially since it doesn't seem to be a "twin" of another scent.
It neither comes across as too "light" nor too "heavy" - exactly an intermediate scent where everything meets in the "golden middle." It scores points with many different "colors," ranging from bright lime green - quite cool - to the rich velvet brown of patchouli, all the way to the light beige of vanilla. In between, various colored woods, warm dark red amber, and honey-colored sandalwood make an appearance.
In the background, there are indeed lightly fresh-grassy green tones that give the otherwise quite sweet fragrance a nice, bitter note. By the way... the "sweetness" appears rather shortly after the top note - and not too intrusive or long-lasting. It thus does not "color" the nose unilaterally with "sugar stuff," but provides an almost kaleidoscopic scent mix where all notes play together and none takes the role of "dictator." With refined little corners and edges. Following the motto "sandpaper meets silk"... and much more.
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There's a lot happening in the herb garden...
... and it's full steam ahead! Here we have "minty wormwood," which I have never smelled like this before. A fresh-bitter, herb-sweet, herbal note that wants to dominate everything at first.
But it doesn't quite get its way when the strong lavender joins in! Equal to the "double pack."
And then there's the greenest, slightly bitter sage, which is surrounded by "nerolic" scents. - And when a fine, tart, unique "fruit note" emerges, it's due to the ripe, red stalks of rhubarb, which spreads its huge leaves some distance away from the herbs.
It fits - but it's a bit "offbeat" among all that herbal greenery! Quietly and secretly, something "bright" approaches, subtly framing everything with a "cool glow." Deep from within the fragrance - and only to be detected in a kind of "white after-scent," reminiscent of a sunlit stream. That must be a hint of musk that gives this impression.
The entire fragrance lasts a long time and radiates quite powerfully... there's a lot going on in the early summer herb garden!
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What Fragrances Am I? Interview with a Scent
From a dear "Parfumo," I received a "mini" in a swap (Thank you, dear E.!!!), which really packs a punch behind the sprayer. Since I, or rather my nose, am only slowly getting to grips with its refined formula, I thought I would simply ask the perfume itself. Like a celebrity being interviewed by a radio or television personality.
"Hello, good morning Hibiscus Mahajád, welcome to our studio. Our audience is very eager to hear what you have to say. So let me start with the first question... Where do you come from? And who 'dressed' you?"
"Well, I'm not quite famous YET, I come from the house of Maison Crivelli and I was 'dressed' by Quentin Bitsch and Givaudan. - They are quite well-known..."
"Well, thank you first of all. What do you stand for?" ---- "For opulent fragrance made from noble ingredients. Only the best is good enough!" --- "What do you smell like? It would be interesting to discuss that..." ---- "Well... I have fruits, specifically Black Currants - and a little Pomegranate!" ----- "Are there also flowers - and if so, which ones?" ----- "Well, I'm well-equipped in that regard. Noble Damask Roses and quite a bit of Hibiscus. I guess I'm quite unique... Not many have Hibiscus! I'm very pleased about that!!" ----- "I sense a green, fresh scent - and something extraordinarily powdery! What else do you use to scent yourself???" ------- Laughs and says: "Ah - did you notice that! That's fresh mint - the green - and I'm powdered with a lot of ambrette seeds - fine, right! I'm something special!" --- Brags a little and says... "I am a bit vain - my customers should notice that..." ----- "Could you also be described as sweet and spicy? After all, I'm sniffing something in the background..." ------ "Well - spicy - yes - but sweet? Maybe a little - no - actually... you could say that. I've also been touched with cinnamon - and with vanilla - which is dark, but also sweet, though not in the sense of vanilla sugar - more like Bourbon vanilla." -----
"Well, you've already revealed quite a bit about yourself... now for some final questions... What do you want to give your customers and how much do they pay for your services?" ------ "Good question! I love to answer that! My motto is radiant opulence and good self-confidence. Additionally, refined elegance and uniqueness! And... I'm not exactly cheap because of that. But those who appreciate me get a lot for their money. Since I'm also very economical in use - as an Extrait de Parfum!" -------
"I thank you very much for your openness! We will definitely see (sniff) each other again in a niche perfumery!" -------- "I hope so too! By the way... thank you for introducing me to a larger audience! And for a good reputation - I really appreciate that!"
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The Ice-Cold Shower with Strange Underheat...
Reads "quirky" - is indeed "quirky," but in the best sense. Because it all begins with a cold rain of citrus fruits and musk. This is also interwoven with a very cool breeze of green jasmine. Then ginger sneaks in, like a thief in the night! But it steals nothing - rather, it adds something - a shift from cold to hot and back again. Slightly spicy, it pairs well with the citrus fruits.
But that was not all. A counterpoint that cannot decide whether it prefers to enjoy the warmth of the sun - or would rather have a cold shower. This is the anise - aromatic - reveling in its own spiciness. It first connects loosely, then more intimately with ginger, citrus, and musk, leaving the impression of a certain "underheat" that lies hidden behind the coolness. Shivering or basking? This question lingers for quite a while. However, it answers itself with the season in which the fragrance is worn. In the hot midsummer, the "cold" is very welcome, particularly evident here. On cool or even cold days, it is the opposite! The warmth prevails, while the coolness remains subtly in the background.
Later, a new moment of "truth" arrives... then, when woods and amber join in - the "temperatures" of the fragrance are relativized. Pleasant - neither too warm nor too cool.
Small, built-in nuances then provide surprises for a longer "residue" of the fragrance... bitter lichens grow on the wood - a cup of tea - bitter - stands steaming beside it.... Overall judgment on my part: A brilliantly successful standalone "non-flanker" of the "Chrome theme"!!!