
smokingkills
2 Reviews

smokingkills
Very helpful Review
12
Incredible scent from an insufferable eye-roll of a brand.
I've only gotten into perfumes as a "hobby" about a year or two ago, prior to which I'd only have one or two bottles at a time, usually gifted to me. One boring evening I decided to read some reviews for fun, mostly of notoriously "bad" fragrances like Secretions Magnifiques, but curiosity got the better of me, and I bought my first bottle - Encre Noire, because it seemed to "match my personality" if that makes sense.
A year later, and I find myself visiting various stockists in person, just trying on anything that looks interesting.. And this is how I encounter Hibiscus Mahajad. I took off the cap, sprayed, and fell in love instantly - I won't bother listing the notes and how well they interact, plenty of reviews have done that already. But yeah, the only fragrance I'd give a perfect 10 in appeal.
I check the price - £360 for the 100ml bottle. This is so far out of my budget that I couldn't even justify buying it with a 50% discount. I could get like, two litres of my humble Encre Noire for that much! It's a lot even for designer or niche, to me anyway. But I love this scent, so what to do? I look for anything similar. Similar notes, designer, niche, dupe, whatever. Nothing is the same, nothing hits as good.
I mull over this predicament for a few months, until today, where I find myself adding it to my basket and almost clicking through to checkout. But before I do so, I decide to check the Maison Crivelli website, wondering what history or status they have to demand such a price, and that's where my desire turns into disappointment:
The brand, eponomous to it's founder Thibaud Crivelli, was created just a few years ago, in 2018. That's cool, niche brands like Kerosene pop up all the time, but Crivelli feels different. Why do I see it in luxury stores standing alongside Dior and Chanel, while for anything else this new I usually need to order decants from overseas? For a brand this new, this felt unusual, and as good as Hibiscus Mahajad is, the perfume industry is not based on merit.
Not much can be found about Crivelli, or "Mr Hibiscus" as he calls himself (holy fuck, lol) - but thankfully he tells us about himself on the website:
"Behind the calm exterior of this young entrepreneur lies a thirst for adventure that has characterized his family for more than 150 years, as they have ventured off the beaten tracks at a time when traveling was uncommon. The three generations that preceded Thibaud lived on 5 continents, and have passed on an eclectic legacy that has sharpened his taste for exploration."
This self-praising wank goes on for quite a bit, but you get the picture by now. Rich kid coming from multigenerational wealth. Born in Paris, and an international hedonist since then, it seems that this venture is his first successful one. So how does he contribute?
"For each project, the perfumers are briefed with a multi-sensorial mood-board, retracing the experience that Thibaud Crivelli wants to share."
Dude just hands talented perfumers a fucking MOOD BOARD he cooked up after coming home from his holidays and calls it a day, no doubt feeling like his "mood boards" are a work of genius, his retreats in luxury resorts certainly providing an ocean of inspiration for artists like Bisch. Oh my fucking god.
As much as I love this perfume, I simply can't get over how shallow and pretentious and insufferable this whole thing is. But how much should brand mythology affect my decision if I love the perfume itself? I love most things Quentin Bisch, this is primarily his creation after all (lest we not forget the "mood board" he was given by Thibaud, of course!) but do I want to give my money for this? Why does it all bother me so much? Should it? The juice itself is the same, it's just the framing around it that turned me off.
I guess the world we live in is ultimately pretty disappointing. What a bummer. Oh, looks like Encre Noire really was a good "personality" match for me in the end!
A year later, and I find myself visiting various stockists in person, just trying on anything that looks interesting.. And this is how I encounter Hibiscus Mahajad. I took off the cap, sprayed, and fell in love instantly - I won't bother listing the notes and how well they interact, plenty of reviews have done that already. But yeah, the only fragrance I'd give a perfect 10 in appeal.
I check the price - £360 for the 100ml bottle. This is so far out of my budget that I couldn't even justify buying it with a 50% discount. I could get like, two litres of my humble Encre Noire for that much! It's a lot even for designer or niche, to me anyway. But I love this scent, so what to do? I look for anything similar. Similar notes, designer, niche, dupe, whatever. Nothing is the same, nothing hits as good.
I mull over this predicament for a few months, until today, where I find myself adding it to my basket and almost clicking through to checkout. But before I do so, I decide to check the Maison Crivelli website, wondering what history or status they have to demand such a price, and that's where my desire turns into disappointment:
The brand, eponomous to it's founder Thibaud Crivelli, was created just a few years ago, in 2018. That's cool, niche brands like Kerosene pop up all the time, but Crivelli feels different. Why do I see it in luxury stores standing alongside Dior and Chanel, while for anything else this new I usually need to order decants from overseas? For a brand this new, this felt unusual, and as good as Hibiscus Mahajad is, the perfume industry is not based on merit.
Not much can be found about Crivelli, or "Mr Hibiscus" as he calls himself (holy fuck, lol) - but thankfully he tells us about himself on the website:
"Behind the calm exterior of this young entrepreneur lies a thirst for adventure that has characterized his family for more than 150 years, as they have ventured off the beaten tracks at a time when traveling was uncommon. The three generations that preceded Thibaud lived on 5 continents, and have passed on an eclectic legacy that has sharpened his taste for exploration."
This self-praising wank goes on for quite a bit, but you get the picture by now. Rich kid coming from multigenerational wealth. Born in Paris, and an international hedonist since then, it seems that this venture is his first successful one. So how does he contribute?
"For each project, the perfumers are briefed with a multi-sensorial mood-board, retracing the experience that Thibaud Crivelli wants to share."
Dude just hands talented perfumers a fucking MOOD BOARD he cooked up after coming home from his holidays and calls it a day, no doubt feeling like his "mood boards" are a work of genius, his retreats in luxury resorts certainly providing an ocean of inspiration for artists like Bisch. Oh my fucking god.
As much as I love this perfume, I simply can't get over how shallow and pretentious and insufferable this whole thing is. But how much should brand mythology affect my decision if I love the perfume itself? I love most things Quentin Bisch, this is primarily his creation after all (lest we not forget the "mood board" he was given by Thibaud, of course!) but do I want to give my money for this? Why does it all bother me so much? Should it? The juice itself is the same, it's just the framing around it that turned me off.
I guess the world we live in is ultimately pretty disappointing. What a bummer. Oh, looks like Encre Noire really was a good "personality" match for me in the end!
1 Comment



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