Nerolic

In search of a (second) signature scent next to my Acca Kappa "Muschio Bianco", which unfortunately does not last long, I came across the Italian house Boellis with its classic "Panama 1924". I have a weakness for Italian fragrance houses or brands. I am most fond of smaller as well as family-run companies. A few years ago I came across, not least due to the perfume comments, the brand Rancé 1795 with its then great fragrance "Francois Charles" which was spoiled for me due to a total all-round renewal sometime around 2016. Unfortunately, the new fragrance had with the old so nothing in common. I was shocked and sad at the same time that one changes such a great smelling product under the same name completely. Anyway, the search for a new signature scent started. A few fragrances came and went (including the wonderful Reflection Man, which was honestly a bit too expensive for me, but the quality is very good in my opinion) and at some point I ended up with Acca Kappa's "Muschio Bianco Parfum". Very good fragrance, sympathetic company. Unfortunately, I quickly discovered that the fragrance is very volatile, or you have to spray a lot to have something of it for a long time. This annoyed me at some point and I went again on the search for another signature fragrance (without wanting to give up the Acca Kappa, because I love the fragrance).

So I ended up with "Panama 1924" by Boellis, this because of the comments here at Parfumo, after the comparison to Le Male was to be read again and again. Unfortunately, I am also a child of the Le Male time and the fragrance captivated me at the time. I thought it was brilliant, not least because it was so different from all the Boss, Armani and Calvin Klein fragrances. Nevertheless, at some point we parted ways, the fragrance direction as such, however, I remained open-minded. Long story short, according to the comments here as well as generally on the net, the fragrance should probably go in the Le Male direction. Thus, my interest was aroused and I ordered a sample from a store. What can I say, I was blown away. In this sample, it actually went quite violently in the direction of the turquoise sailor, but much more noble and adult, in addition, from Italian (niche) house. In short, the perfect fragrance for me. Then I immediately went to buy Panama 1924 in the perfumery. When I was home immediately sprayed and yes, there he was.......the known fragrance.........but not Le Male but the other acquaintance. What was it called, the fruity-sweet cinnamon hammer in the form of a gold bar? Exactly, "One Million"! I could hardly believe my nose when I smelled that and thought I might have gotten another version of Panama. There are several others, like a sports version, etc. But no, it was the normal Panama. Now I researched, but found nothing useful, except that the fragrance pyramid here at Parfumo fit perfectly to the version I just bought (I smelled mandarin/lavender, cinnamon and some rose). Disillusionment and some anger set in. I even ordered me again a sample of the fragrance at another online store, again the same brilliant Le Male vibe.

After some research via search engines, I came across the then listed fragrance pyramid (until about 2015/2016) here at Parfumo that was there:

Head: citrus notes
Heart: tobacco flower
Base: vanilla

Bam! Now it was clear to me, the fragrance was completely changed from Le Male vibe to One Million vibe. Nevertheless, everything very high-quality and fine. Nevertheless, I could never do much with the One Million direction (possibly liegts at the cinnamon). Once again, I became a "victim" of a total reformulation, as I did with Rancé. This is already annoying, especially if you get a corresponding fragrance sample and because of this then buys the original bottle for expensive money, which but then smells completely different.

But let me now come to my fragrance description. Well all in all Panama 1924 presents itself as a very high-quality interpretation of the addressed One Million fragrance (comparable to the old version and Le Male, which was also very fine and noble). In the head, today's fragrance starts with a mixture of lavender / tangerine in the ratio 70/30, so here the lavender predominates and contributes in conjunction with some cinnamon here a certain sweetness. The 30% tangerine possibly also in conjunction with the listed lemon give the fragrance some tangy fruitiness in the prelude. After about 10-20 minutes, it becomes floral-spicy, you notice how rose and cumin attack a little, possibly also coriander and thyme. That remains all in all then also so a spicy-sweet mixture until the drydown with sandalwood, which I like very much. There it goes from spicy-sweet in sweetish-woody with a little powder. The fragrance lasts with me about 4 hours through, the powdery woodiness I can perceive with nose on the skin about 6 hours.

Objectively, I must certify the fragrance a high quality, everything smells very high quality and well matched. Subjectively, I am still pissed off that one has completely changed the formerly brilliant fragrance, which was also much more long-lasting (at least the samples sent to me). After I opened the plastic seal, I can no longer return the original bottle yes and must now try to befriend me yet with the new version.

Conclusion:
Old fragrance with Le Male-Vibe until about 2016 (fresh-pudrig-sweet)
New fragrance with One Million-Vibe since 2016 (slightly fruity-spicy-sweet-woody)

...Three years later...

We are in 2023 and I still own Panama 1924, yes it has become my signature scent. But a few things have changed. First let it be said, the fragrance is now an eau de parfum and no longer an eau de toilette. Furthermore, the name has changed a little, because "Boellis" now no longer appears so prominently on the flacon, but only the logo with the "B" and the fragrance as such now only "Panama 1924" is called.

But now we come to the fragrance itself in 2023. I was then yes not tired to emphasize again and again that the fragrance as I acquired him in 2020 had a clear "One Million" note. Today, three years and bottles later, I can say that since the switch to the eau de parfum, the former barbershop-like scent is now present again, as I knew it from the Panama samples back then. Of this cinnamony (and fruity) One Million impression is thank God nothing more there. I guess they played a little with the scents at the time and changed them when I bought the first bottle in 2020. So could have been at the batch at the time.

Well, what can I say...The opening is definitely lavender-heavy, which suits me just fine since I love lavender. Also, I perceive distinct citrus notes and some mint, as the lavender is accompanied by a slightly green / tangy direction. In the heart the pyramid says yes something of rose, thyme and among other things caraway. I can also understand this, if I follow the further course of the fragrance. Towards the base, it becomes woodier / powdery.

The fragrance is perceived by others, but is not a sillage monster. The durability itself is fine (base still perceptible the next day on clothing).

Conclusion: Sweet fresh Italo-Barbier!

First of all, I got to know and appreciate this wonderful fragrance through Parfumo. First of all a big thank you. The family-run company Acca Kappa from Italy is generally very sympathetic to me. Basically yes a brush manufacturer with long tradition sometime also the production of smells, soaps etc. took place. After own research, probably very much attention is paid to natural ingredients and any kind of animal experiments is rejected. I think it's very sympathetic. Sooner or later I will test the other fragrances of this house as well. Now it's all about "Muschio Bianco/ White Moss" today, especially the Eau de Parfum version.

Compared to the Eau de Cologne, this is somewhat deeper and mossier. A glance into the fragrance pyramid reveals that moss is even listed in the Eau de Parfum, but not in Cologne. I like it very much, because it makes the scent a little bit greener.

But let's start with the first minutes after spraying on, because that's where the top notes have their big appearance. And it's phenomenal! Fresh, citric (no "toilet lemon") and quite something green herbaceous, which is probably owed to juniper and lavender. Unfortunately, I emphasize unfortunately this ingenious freshness does not last very long, after about 20-30 minutes the fragrance journey goes in a slightly soapy direction. Responsible for this is of course the listed white musk. At this point, at the latest, the detergent character of the fragrance, which has already been mentioned here several times, will become apparent. Very pure and soapy fresh. After one hour we are on the base level, which is of course still dominated by musk. In my opinion, however, it is the presence of moss that gives the fragrance a slightly moist coolness in the drydown, not to say a fresh mushness. However, this is not meant negatively please, I find straight this moss note makes the smell also with high temperatures very well wearable, since it exudes a certain coolness and one is a little like in a dark damp forest with a lot of moss

All this makes this fragrance so incredibly beautiful, if...well, if it weren't for this weak shelf life or Sillage. Basically the drydown described by me is often even durable for one day on the clothes (even if only very weakly), on the skin, at least on mine however no chance. In addition, it is very close to the body, which can be nice in certain moments.

All in all I will of course remain faithful to my Muschio Bianco and would like to point out briefly that a slight similarity to "CK Be" cannot be denied. This is most likely due to the juniper. Anyone who was/is positively open-minded to the Calvin Klein fragrance in the 90s (or even today) should definitely test Acca Kappa's MB, which is of a much higher quality, more natural and somewhat soapier and mossier

Thank you very much for your attention! :)