PBregovich

vintage (adj.) - (of everyday objects, clothing, etc.) older [and used], but back in fashion
retro (adj.) - imitating elements of earlier styles in music, design, etc.

As some of you here on Parfumo may already know, I am one of the lucky ones who had the chance to own the original EdT La Nuit de l'Homme and was captivated by it. This was a cardamom-heavy and darker version of today's EdT, which could definitely show more potency.

After the first few reports that the new Eau de Parfum (neither Le Parfum nor L'Intense) was supposed to be a re-launch of the magical original elixir, I immediately participated in a sharing (thanks Bajki) and awaited the fragrance mail with great anticipation.

You probably already know how it is with fragrance hype. With the supposed fragrance twins and the better power of the new batch. Let's be honest: This is rarely true. Or let's be a bit more specific: These similarities are rarely at 100%. Because for some Parfumo, even a slight resemblance is a resemblance. Are the fragrance twins identical or fraternal? That is a question of subjective definition.

Now to the Eau de Parfum from the La Nuit de l'Homme line itself. As many have already mentioned, a lot happens in a short time, which makes the scent a bit overwhelming at first. Yes, it starts off very fruity. However, this combination of fruit and leather is so potent that we are dealing with overripe fruits here. A rather strong sweetness is nothing new for YSL perfumes. Lavender is, of course, still in play; otherwise, it wouldn't be La Nuit anymore (the irony, I know). But what plays a significant role and is impossible for my nose to ignore is the leather. It's not listed among the ingredients here, but it is on Fragrantica; some have mentioned it, and for me, it is present.

At the beginning of my "perfume career," I couldn't stand leather scents. It might even be more honest to say that they disgusted me. Over time, however, I became a big fan and have come to appreciate Tuscan Leather, Ombré Leather, Gucci Guilty Absolute, and many more. The leather here is quite strong, quite dark. Maybe you know that feeling when the leather in a fragrance has an almost smoky quality? I perceive that in this scent.

That all sounds pretty great, doesn't it? I like leather, I like fruity scents, and I also enjoy lavender in more modern fragrances. So what's the problem? Quite simply: It's like liking chocolate, döner, and watermelon. Individually, you enjoy these three treats, but you probably wouldn't eat them all at once. Unfortunately, we have this effect in the new Eau de Parfum. I find that the combination of these three very prominent notes is not very harmonious. Even fragrances that clash usually have a harmony that makes the scent special for us. Here, however, it feels like it has been combined in a very clumsy way. The fragrance comes across as heavy, clumsy, and definitely not elegant like the irreplaceable OG La Nuit de l'Homme. Longevity and sillage are better than the current EdT, but personally, that doesn't mean much to me.

That's why I talk about vintage and retro here. The new Eau de Parfum is not vintage. The old juice would have been vintage, but it is lost and is only sold by a few brave adventurers at similarly adventurous prices. A treasure that even Indiana Jones would swing after on vines. This new scent, however, is retro; it tries to resurrect the old aesthetic but doesn't know the old school itself.

This new school needs a lot of sweetness, needs a lot of fruit. Attempts to play with the leather fail, in my opinion. In the drydown, things calm down a bit, but it still doesn't quite sound right. It should be noted that the temperatures here are quite high, and I might prefer the scent in winter. But so far, I am a bit disappointed and must come to terms with the fact that one should not dwell in the past. The one that got away. It's time to let go.

The Tobacco Collection by Zara was one of the most hyped fragrances about a year ago. While I don't really warm up to the Intense/Dark/Exclusive, I like Rich/Warm/Addictive all the more.

To get straight to the point, no, it does not smell like Herod. It may be a similar fragrance type, but it is not a twin by any means. Insurrection II Wild and thus Pure Havane are also not twins.

The fragrance might also be a bit misleading due to its name. It is part of the Tobacco Collection, although I personally do not perceive any tobacco. The scent has a rather linear progression for me (like many Zara fragrances) and mainly smells of coconut, underlined by honey. The only thing it might smell like is perhaps shisha tobacco, as the tobacco scent often gets lost among all the other aromas.

So what is RWA ultimately? RWA is a very sweet gourmand fragrance that is very pleasant in the air. In my opinion, it can be classified as unisex and reminds me of my girlfriend's Ziaja Cupuacu shower gel with shea butter & macadamia oil. The fragrance is of course best suited for the colder days; I am wearing it today in this awful weather while on sick leave because it is so cozy.

Cozy is also the keyword when it comes to occasions. For me, this fragrance is very cuddly and delicate; it is not particularly loud, and the sillage does not fill rooms. The longevity does not break any world records but is sufficient for a cozy evening. And there it is again, that word. "Cozy." In my eyes, RWA is definitely not a going-out fragrance. It surely does not fit in a club, seems odd to me in a restaurant, and would be inappropriate for a bar or other establishments, in my opinion. I prefer to wear this fragrance on cold days after a hot bath. When you jump straight from the icy snow into the shower and get goosebumps because you were already so chilled. After that, you put on the coziest sweater, apply this fragrance, and enjoy either a hot chocolate, a tea, or a glass of red wine. A fireplace would also be great if you have the opportunity. Then a good book and a fleece blanket, and the world is perfect. And even if it might be a Friday night, you put your phone on silent because you surely do not want to leave this place.

A Zara fragrance that has been in their collection for a long time. I don't remember Lacoste Blanc well enough to compare the two scents, but I trust the reviews here on Parfumo.

8.0 is a feel-good fragrance. The first spray is minty and refreshing, perfect for after getting up. The freshness remains throughout the scent development and gives me an exceptionally good mood. Moreover, the fragrance is quite fruity (I assume melon), but also a bit floral. It never becomes too sweet and always maintains the necessary level of freshness to make it perfect for an active spring day. In the drydown, the scent becomes increasingly woody, although the aquatic character never really disappears.

The fragrance is certainly not a revelation. But sometimes you just need an uncomplicated scent. No long thinking: face washed, white T-shirt on, 8.0 sprayed on, and out into the sun. Longevity and sillage are perfectly fine for such a fragrance; a few more sprays and others can enjoy it too. But as always with Zara: for the price, you really can't complain.

I recommend this "blind reach" fragrance, which especially shows its charm during the warmer season.

The irony: I'm writing this from home while the view out the window shows nothing but snow and biting cold. I need vitamin D.

This fragrance is one of the first that I was motivated to test through Parfumo. I read a lot about it, and when I smelled it for the first time, I was very surprised. Neither positively nor negatively. I simply expected something completely different.

What you get is a scent that, in my opinion, is completely unisex. This positioning seems to become clear to everyone who sees it classified as "masculine" here on Parfumo, only to read comments that describe it as more "feminine." It is neither. I think it depends more or less on the wearer themselves. A woman could easily wear it. I also enjoy wearing it and believe it suits me well.

It is a very sweet fragrance that carries a very interesting leather aroma. However, this is not leather like in Tuscan Leather, Ombré Leather 18, or Colonia Leather. Here, the leather is very gentle, soft. I always think of brown suede ankle boots with this scent. That’s what I prefer to wear it with. This fragrance has a slight elegance to it, almost a delicateness, which I believe should also be reflected by the wearer. I can't imagine Midnight in Paris with my hoodies, but rather with my clean shirts and soft turtlenecks. Less so with broad-built joggers, and more with those who have long, slender legs and somewhat tighter pants (I don’t necessarily mean skinny jeans!). It’s a bit hard to put into words what I want to express. The scent is not loud, it is not "in your face," and the wearer shouldn't be either. Of course, that doesn’t mean it can only be worn by very feminine men. Quite the opposite: a man who wears this fragrance confidently will appear all the more masculine. But that’s more about self-assurance than the scent.

This is not a fragrance for biting cold. It is not a fragrance for sweltering heat. It is somewhere in between. Just like the gender classification.
This scent is best suited for the afternoons and evenings of the warmer season. When I think of Paris, I think of white wine, of cigarettes outside the café, of temperatures that are neither cold nor hot - just pleasant. I think of slightly tipsy conversations that don’t deal with overly serious topics. I think of a cup of coffee in sunny weather.

The fragrance is something very special in its own way. It is not revolutionary, and the longevity and sillage are also quite weak. But it gives the wearer a pleasant and casual feeling. And that’s why I like it.

PS: The bottle is also fantastic and unique.

I have had a rather strange relationship with all these iris scents that resemble Dior Homme for more than a year now. Until now, I liked Dior Homme Intense the most and was often on the verge of buying it. However, there was always something that bothered me. What I didn't like was that the opening was always somewhat scratchy, which disturbed the overall feeling of the fragrance.

What kind of feeling? It is a scent that is sweet yet masculine. Strongly on the edge, a fragrance that questions binary gender separation. The scent that suits a man who openly deals with his feelings, who can have conversations late into the night. Someone who enjoys observing you in the morning, fascinated by how you lie there calmly and breathe.

It is a fragrance that fits the evening. It is dark, mysterious, erotic. It is that breath you feel just before the kiss on your neck. That unexpected and initially shy kiss, which is long and intimate, that undresses and throws clothes to the ground, the kiss that turns off the lights behind and seeks the way to the bedroom.
Now, the aforementioned scratchiness of Dior Homme Intense has always been a bothersome detail for me. Noses that collide, shoelaces that refuse to untie, the television noises of the neighbors breaking the silence. Valentino Uomo Intense, on the other hand, starts more elegantly. It is still quite a loud fragrance with decent longevity and sillage. However, I would compare Dior Homme Intense and Valentino Uomo Intense in the following way: The former speaks loudly and convincingly, an orator who can captivate the crowd. Only sometimes he gets so carried away that his voice breaks under the energy and sometimes jumps to a pitch that was not intended. Valentino Uomo Intense also speaks like that, but maintains composure. He speaks loudly, but calmly. Persuasive and confident.

I believe the various notes of a fragrance released in 2016 don't need much commentary anymore. Iris provides the powderiness, tonka and vanilla give it sweetness, and the leather touch offers dark depth. I am generally a lover of sweet fragrances and find that Valentino Uomo Intense is the best interpretation of the sweet iris scent. I was fascinated by Dior Homme Intense, as it was my first introduction to this fragrance direction, but with Valentino Uomo Intense, I discovered a facet of it that I do not question.